Having covered highlights from independent watchmakers at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches I auction in Hong Kong, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on April 5.

We look at eight notable lots. Some, like the platinum Patek Philippe ref. 5016 with its minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon, are amongst the most valuable in the sale. But the catalogue also has value buys, notably including offerings from jewellers like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Bulgari.

Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue can be accessed here.

The Patek Philippe ref. 5016P

Lot 2137: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux

One of the most poetic timepieces by the Parisian jeweller, the Pont des Amoureux was a watch that helped make Van Cleef & Arpels as a watchmaker. This watch is the original and cleanest version of the model, which was discontinued in 2019 and replaced by a revised version.

The watch is all about a uniquely whimsical depiction of the passing of time. A double retrograde display takes the form of two figures: a lady with an umbrella indicates the hours whilst a gentleman marks the minutes.

The two figures move towards one another over the course of 12 hours, until they meet and “kiss” on top of the bridge that overlooks the Seine river – this happens twice in a day, at midday and midnight.

The dial is executed in grisaille enamel, a meticulous process that dates back to the 16th century. The technique requires numerous layers of enamel fired in an oven, followed by artful scratching to remove layers and create shading and lines.

Like the many of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Poetic Complications, this is powered by the Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 846 with a complications module produced by Agenhor, the Geneva specialist responsible for most of the jeweller’s most interesting complications.

Accompanied by only its presentation box, this has an estimate of HK$400,000-600,000, or about US$51,000-76,500. You can find out more in the catalogue.

Lot 2139: Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Grande Sonnerie

Audemars Piguet (AP) has always been associated with the Royal Oak, at least for the last three decades. But it has long excelled at complications, notably the grande sonnerie. In the 1990s, it was one of the handful of brands offering the complication in a wristwatch (and it recently returned to the complication with the Code 11:59 Universelle).

A grande sonnerie strikes the hours and quarters as they pass, but also the time on demand as a minute repeater with the pusher at 11 o’clock. The slider at two o’clock allows the wearer to select grande sonnerie, petite sonnerie, or silent mode.

While these functions have lost their practicality in contemporary times, their complexity means they are still very much appreciated by discerning collectors.

This example is a Jules Audemars. Long before the Code 11.59, the Jules Audemars was the brand’s long-lived but ultimately unsuccessful attempt at a round watch. Named after one of the brand’s founders, Jules Audemars was clean and classical.

Here the case is pink gold and 38.5 mm in diameter. Inside is the cal. 2868, a manual-wind movement developed by Renaud & Papi, the complications subsidiary of AP.

Most notable is the blue dial with luminous hands and markers, a variant that is amongst the least common for the Jules Audemars Grande Sonnerie.

Accompanied by only its presentation box, this Jules Audemars Grande Sonnerie is numbered “15/50”. The estimate is HK$600,000-800,000, or about US$76,500-102,000.

You can find out more in the catalogue.

Lot 2143: Cartier CPCP Tank Cintrée ref. 2767

Created in 1921, the elongated Tank Cintreé is one of the most desirable variants of Cartier’s iconic watch. And to celebrate and reissue Cartier designs from throughout the 20th century, Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) was debuted 1998 and lasted for a decade.

This example is a CPCP Tank Cintreé released in 2004 as a limited series of 150 pieces for the Asian market, explaining the Chinese numerals on the lower dial. It retains the classic case design but with tweaks.

For one, the watch has been reconfigured to display dual time zones that are independently adjustable. The upper dial has Roman numerals while the lower dial features Chinese numerals. This transforms an otherwise ordinary time-only Tank into an elegant and functional traveller’s watch.

This example has an 18k white gold case that measures 45 mm in diameter and 23.5 mm high. It has a silvered guilloche dial with concentric patterning.

Numbered “86/100”, the present example is in excellent condition and complete with its original accessories. The estimate is HK$120,000-180,000, or about US$15,300-23,000.

For more, visit the catalogue entry.

Lot 2167: A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon

A. Lange & Söhne has been at the vanguard of German watchmaking since its revival in 1994. While its seminal watches like the Lange 1 and Datograph are best known, the brand has also made more novel and obscure watches.

One of them was the Cabaret introduced in 1997, but like many form watches eventually faded into obscurity. The current Lange collection focuses on round watches.

This is one of the later iterations of the Cabaret and certainly the most complicated. Large, heavy, and equipped with an impressive hacking tourbillon, the Cabaret Tourbillon was never a bestseller, making it fairly rare.

Dating to 2008, the Cabaret Tourbillon has the hacking tourbillon at six and a digital date display above for visual balance. The seconds and power reserve sub-dials are placed at the seven and four o’clock positions respectively.

Inside is the cal. L042.1, a manual-wind movement with a one-minute tourbillon. Thanks to its patented hacking seconds mechanism, the movement has been designed to halt the tourbillon when the crown is pulled.

Like most Lange movements, the calibre is characterised by striped German silver bridges, blued screws, and jewels in gold chatons. Like most Lange tourbillon movements, it features twin cocks that are hand-engraved with a floral motif – one that supports the tourbillon cage and the other for the wheel that drives the cage.

The watch is accompanied by its box, certificate, and original accessories. The estimate is HK$600,000-800,000, or around US$76,500-102,000.

Find out more in the catalogue.

Lot 2181: Bulgari Octa Roma Papillon Central Tourbillon

Lot 2276: Patek Philippe ref. 3945

Like better-known ref. 3940, this is a full perpetual calendar. It displays the complete calendar, moon’s current phase in a small aperture at six o’clock, along with a leap year.

In its standard form, the Patek Philippe ref. 5078 is a stunning timepiece that features a minute repeater. But in this special-order configuration it gets even better.

Instead of an enamel dial with Roman numerals as found on the regular-production version, this has blackened Breguet numerals for a more elegant look.

Special orders like this are usually reserved for the brand’s best clients, so the original owner of this timepiece was part of that important circle. According to Sotheby’s, the consignor is the original owner who purchased the timepiece and has kept it locked away since. Thus, it is being sold in like-new condition.

The ref. 5078 is powered by the cal. R 27 PS, a self-winding minute repeater with classic gongs. With its elegant design and impressive complication, the Patek Philippe ref. 5078 is a true masterpiece of haute horologerie.

The ref. 5078 includes its original certificate, presentation box, and other accessories. It has an estimate of HK$2.6-4 million, or about US$332,000-510,000. Full lot details here.

Lot 2297: Patek Philippe ref. 5016P

The star of this auction is undoubtedly the Patek Philippe ref. 5016. First launched in 1994, the reference was considered one of the most complicated timepieces ever produced by Patek Philippe. And even though it’s been surpassed on complication count, it remains timelessly elegant.

As covered in an earlier review, the ref. 5016 is one of the brand’s few minute repeaters with this particular dial layout that has a retrograde date, full calendar, and moon phase. But because it is just 36 mm, the watch is eminently discreet and wearable.

The cal. RTO 27 PS QR (short for Repetition minutes, TOurbillon, Petit Seconde, Quantieme Retrograde) is both complicated and beautifully decorated.

On offer is the platinum variant with a black dial set featuring applied Breguet numerals.  It is also one of the last ref. 5016s produced, part of the final production run featuring movements bearing the Patek Philippe Seal.

This example was part of the estimated 200 pieces of the ref. 5016 produced during its 16-year run. The ref. 5016P has all its original packaging and accessories, and carries an estimate of HK$4.2-6 million, or about US$535,100-764,400.

You can find out more in the catalogue.

Preview and auction details

All lots will be on show during the preview in Hong Kong during the run-up to the auction. Both the preview exhibition and sale will happen at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (New Wing).

Preview
April 1-4

Auction
April 5, 10:00 am

For the full catalogue, as well as viewing appointments and online bidding, visit sotheby’s.com.

This was brought to you in collaboration with Sotheby’s.

Beginning in early April, Sotheby’s spring sale season in Hong Kong also marks the auctioneer’s 50th anniversary in Asia. One of the headline sales is Important Watches I, a 210-lot sale that spans notable complications, artisanal decoration, and of course, independent watchmaking.

The indie line up includes heavy hitters from the likes of F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, and Philippe Dufour, but also a few potential value buys such as the Christophe Claret Blackjack 21. And in the mix are some surprises, like the FVF Tourbillon Superligero.

The auction takes place on April 5, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here.

Lot 2101: Gérald Genta Fantasy Retro Mickey Mouse in 18k white gold

Gérald Genta was the first watch brand to place cartoon character in high-end watches, well before it became a fad amongst luxury watchmakers. The Fantasy collection depicted various Disney characters, usually combined with retrograde complications. Such watches are common enough that a few appear every auction season, but almost always in steel or occasionally yellow gold.

This example, surprisingly, is entirely in 18k white gold, case and bracelet, making it very uncommon. While it will pass for steel at a distance, the heft of the case and bracelet is a giveaway. 

The case is 36 mm, compact by today’s standards but the typical size for a men’s watch in the 1990s and early 2000s. And the dial is mother of pearl – Genta was a pioneer in exotic dial materials – with Mickey Mouse enjoying a game of golf.

Like the rest of the Fantasy Retro watches, this is mechanically straightforward. It’s powered by an ETA movement with a Genta module on top. It indicates the minutes with a golf club wielded by Mickey, while hours are in a window at four o’clock.

This watch retains the original warranty card dated 2004 and presentation box. It carries an estimate of HK$80,000-120,000, or about US$10,200-15,300. 

You can find out more in the catalogue.

Lot 2144: FVF Tourbillon Superligero

The story of Franc Vila is one of failure and redemption: the Spaniard founded his namesake brand in 2005, riding the wave of demand for independent watchmaking during the period. His big and bold timepieces covered in materials like carbon fibre were perfect for the era. But like many highfliers of the period, the Franc Vila brand folded in the ensuring bust.

But Mr Vila made a comeback in 2018 with FVF, short for “Franc Villa Founder”. With FVF Mr Vila revealed a more cohesive vision and a certainly more thoughtful watch, the Tourbillon Superligero. Only a handful have been made to date, but this example has emerged at Sotheby’s.

The Tourbillon Superligero is a a distinctive watch that is all about the extensively open-worked movement that’s been constructed in in a near-symmetrical manner. It features a one-minute flying tourbillon at six o’clock, a heptagonal roller showing the day of the week at 12 o’clock, and in between the two, a spherical day and night indicator. And the calibre boasts an impressive 100-hour power reserve.

The titanium case is constructed with minimal metal: it’s essentially a case middle with tall sapphire crystals on both sides, allowing for a panoramic view of the movement. And it also ensures the watch is lightweight despite the size.

Despite the modern aesthetics, the FVF1 movement inside is decorated surprisingly well. In fact, the finishing is comparable to that of established, high-end brands like Vacheron Constantin and Chopard. This is especially evident on the “V” shaped base plate, which boasts prominent bevelling.

The FVF Tourbillon Superligero is accompanied by a carry-on suitcase and has an estimate of HK$240,000-400,000, or about US$30,600-51,000. 

You can find out more in the catalogue.

Lot 2149: Gérald Genta Success Perpetual Calendar

While Gerald Genta is best known for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, the late designer was more adventurous when it came to designs for his own brand, often experimenting with shapes and materials.

But unsurprisingly, one of his bestselling creations for his namesake brand was another octagonal watch, known as the Success. Like much else he designed, the Success was inspired by his fascination with sailing and maritime exploration. Its bezel is reminiscent of a ship’s wheel, while the crown brings to mind a diving helmet.

In the context of modern design the Success is an unconventional shape and also small at just 35 mm in diameter. But it is interesting while being good value considering the materials and complication.

This example is a quintessential Success model, featuring a perpetual calendar with moon phase. Like most other Genta watches of the period, the dial was crafted from unusual materials, including lapis lazuli for the moon phase disc, mother-of-pearl for the calendar rings, and carbon fibre for the dial itself.

The case on the other hand is retro: 18k yellow gold case matched with a five-link bracelet also in yellow gold. This example features a solid case back that hides the ultra-thin F. Piguet automatic movement within.

The lot is offered without any accessories and has an estimate of HK$50,000-100,000, or about US$6,400-12,740. For more, visit the catalogue entry.

Lot 2158: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné

Greubel Forsey’s Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné is an ingenious reinterpretation of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention. By inclining the tourbillon at 25°, the movement is meant to average out the effects of gravity while the watch is in an ever-changing position due to it being on the wrist.

At the time of its launch in 2007, the inclined tourbillon was a bona fide novelty. To showcase the novelty, the case has a small windows on the case band to reveal the tourbillon profile. This example dates to 2010 and features a platinum case.

Though this is a later variant of the model, it retains almost all the design elements of the original, save for some additional decorative elements. The dark grey dial has the same layout as the original version, but gains the brand’s signature “micro” relief engraving with a ring around the dial that depicts the Greubel Forsey motto.

Inside is the cal. GF01, a manual-wind movement with twin, stacked barrels that provide a healthy power reserve of 72 hours. They incorporating a decoupling mechanism that prevents them from being overwound.

Like most Greubel Forsey movements, the calibre is characterised by frosted bridges, blued screws, and jewels in gold chatons. The German silver bridges show signs of oxidisation, but fortunately the watch is being sold with a complimentary servicing by Greubel Forsey (up to a retail value of CHF10,000).

The Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incline has an estimate of HK$1.2-2 million, or about US$153,000-255,000. Find out more in the catalogue.

Lot 2162: Christophe Claret Blackjack 21

Lot 2169: Urwerk Black Cobra UR-CC1

No history of contemporary independent watchmaking is complete without Urwerk. Established by watchmaking brothers Felix and Thomas Baumgartner and designer Martin Frei in 1997, the innovative brand has always focused on inventive time displays housed in a futuristic cases that resemble spacecraft.

One of its most notable complications was the UR-CC1 King Cobra, a reinterpretation of the Patek Philippe ref. 3414 “Cobra”, a forgotten experimental designed by Geneva jeweller Gilbert Albert and constructed by watchmaker Louis Cottier. The key feature of the Cobra was its linear time displays, which was reproduced on the UR-CC1.

The UR-CC1 indicates the time with a pair of linear displays made up of retrograde cylinders for the hours and minutes.

The display is driven by a toothed segment at the end of a rack that slides up and down via a vertical triple cam. Each cam rotates the minute cylinder for one 60-minute cycle. The cylinder then jumps back to its original position courtesy of the extra-flat linear spring. This jump activates the jump of the hour cylinder, advancing it forward by one step.

Seconds are indicated by a spiral hand

The underside of the minute cylinder is visible on the back

The example on offer is the Black Cobra, a variant of the UR-CC1 with a AlTiN-coated steel case. This watch is fitted to a matching bracelet that, according to Sotheby’s, was a special order by the previous owner. It is also accompanied by its box and certificate.

Released in 2009, the UR-CC1 cost almost US$300,000, making it prohibitively expensive at the time. Now this has an estimate of HK$1-2 million, or about US$127,400-255,000. For more, visit the catalogue entry.

Lot 2177: Philippe Dufour Simplicity 34 mm

Widely considered the greatest movement finisher ever, Philippe Dufour’s most recognisable watch is the Simplicity. Much loved for its gorgeous movement decoration that has yet to be rivalled, the watch has clean, elegant lines.

This example is pink gold and 34 mm, giving it a warm, vintage feel. It has a silvered guilloche dial featuring Arabic numerals at the quarters.

Though 34 mm is small by current standards, traditionalists often seek out the Simplicity 34 mm, since it is both the size worn by Dufour himself and also the rarer of the two sizes (the other being 37 mm).

Numbered “14”, the present example was delivered in 2002, making it one of the earliest known examples from the original run of 200 watches. It includes the original certificate and wood box. The estimate is HK$4-6 million, or about US$510,000-764,400.

Full lot details here.

Lot 2180: F.P. Journe Octa Automatique Lune “France-China 50”

F.P. Journe is now as hot as an independent watchmaker can be, with early examples of his trademark complications, namely the Resonance and Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite, achieving record prices at auction.

But the brands still has a few rare but overlooked model, such as this Octa Automatique Lune made to commemorate the golden jubilee of diplomatic relations between France and China in 2014.

Just 50 of these were made, all featuring a dial in dark blue, an uncommon shade for F.P. Journe. And the dial gains a bit of colour from the commemorative emblem discreetly positioned next to the logo at three o’clock.

The emblem is made up of the names of both countries, each written in their respective languages, with a red box resembling a traditional seal sitting just above. The red square contains”50周年”, or “50th anniversary” in Chinese.

Housed in a 40 mm platinum case, this Octa Automatique Lune is powered by the cal. 1300.3 automatic movement found in the standard model.

This watch includes with its wooden box along with the guarantee certificate. It has an estimate of HK$800,000-1 million, or around US$102,000-153,000.

Full lot details here.

Lot 2307: Richard Mille Bonbon RM 37-01 “Cerise”

Less complication and artisanal than most of the prior picks, but certainly more whimsical than even the Genta Mickey, is the RM 37-01 “Cerise”. Part of the the Bonbon collection launched in 2019, the Cerise is typical Richard Mille – fun, loud, and expensive.

The Bonbon collection was a line of ladies’ watches centred on candy and fruit-themed motifs that was conceived to broaden the brand’s reach to include a younger, female demographic. French for “cherry”, Cerise has candies on the dial and hot pink strap.

Like other models in the Bonbon collection, the Cerise features a semi-skeletonised dial with appliqués taking the form of candies and fruits. The appliqués are naturally hand-painted in acrylic and varnished with a “powdered sugar” lacquered finish.

The Cerise is powered by the CRMA1, an in-house automatic movement, while the case is two types of carbon composite – black on the front and cherry-coloured on the back.

Accompanied by only its presentation box, this RM37-01 is numbered “17/30”. It has an estimate of HK$2.4-3.2 million, or about US$306,000-408,000.

For more, check out the catalogue.

Preview and auction details

All lots will be on show during the preview in Hong Kong during the run-up to the auction. Both the preview exhibition and sale will happen at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (New Wing).

Preview
April 1-4

Auction
April 5, 10:00 am

For the full catalogue, as well as viewing appointments and online bidding, visit sotheby’s.com.

This was brought to you in collaboration with Sotheby’s.

With luxury brands vying to offer clients individuality in products, customised watches are now fairly common. The trend began at aftermarket providers, but establishment watchmakers are gradually making such offerings available beyond their highest-end clientele.

The latest entrant is IWC with its Individualisation Service, a surprisingly straightforward customisation process that’s a first for a mainstream watch brand. Available at just two locations for now, the service allows clients to personalise a Portugieser Chronograph; anyone can walk into either of the IWC stores in Shanghai or Dubai and select a case material, match it with a variety of dials and straps, with the finished watch ready in about three weeks. The caveat: the customised watch costs an CHF1,500 over the retail price of the standard-production model.

Initial thoughts

Despite the clunky name, IWC’s Individualisation Service is definitely a welcome development since it’s a factory-official customised watch that is relatively accessible in price. Customisation is typically offered to only a brand’s biggest-spending clients, so this democratises the concept to a degree. Granted, it’s being trialed at just two locations, but it will surely be rolled out more widely once its commercial viability is proven.

That said, the Individualisation Service has limitations. It allows clients to choose from a range of fixed options, rather than allowing free rein to tweak or redesign the watch. So if you were thinking of a unique dial colour or special emblem on the dial, that won’t happen. And customisation is limited to a single model, the Portugieser Chronograph ref. 3716.

All this comes at a price of CHF1,500, which is pricey relative to the retail price of the steel model but acceptable for the gold version. It’s especially expensive for the steel watch considering the fixed range of options. 

This is a good idea that makes a regular production watch more interesting, but it costs a bit too much. IWC should be offering more options or more flexible customisation at that price. That said, I hope to see this extended to IWC’s time-only models such as the Portugieser Automatic, which are more affordable to start with, and also offered in more locations.

Individualisation

The Individualisation Service is a straightforward process that allows the client to customise his or her watch via a design console at the boutique. Rather than software, IWC has opted for a physical design console made up of actual components like cases (in either steel or gold), dials, and straps. 

The client can mix and match these parts to create an ideal combination. Though the options are fixed, they are numerous, at least compared to the standard versions of the model.

The console offers 16 different dials assemblies (complete with hands and crystals), ranging from turquoise to indigo, all of which are exclusive to the Individualisation Service. The dial assemblies have magnetic backs, allowing them to be secured to the sample cases for a lifelike mockup.  

Similarly, the strap can be selected from a number of options, including a steel bracelet and straps in TimberTex, the brand’s proprietary leather alternative composed of plant fibres. 

Once the design process is completed, IWC will assemble the personalised chronograph, which will be delivered in about three weeks. The customised watch will bear an “I” (for Individualisation) on the seconds register at six o’clock.

The cost of the Individualisation Service is a fixed CHF1,500 that covers the dial and strap choice, which is on top of the retail price of the Portugieser Chronograph.

For more, visit IWC.com.

Addition March 16, 2023: Price of service added.

For over a decade now, Montblanc has been attempting to become a serious watchmaker, an endeavour that started after its acquisition of Minerva. Despite having found only modest success there, the pen maker-turned-luxury-goods-house has produced a good number of proper haute horlogerie watches – mostly chronographs and some with surprisingly accessible prices – many of which have gone under appreciated due to the brand name.

A perfect example of the Minerva mechanical excellence and sharp pricing is Heritage Small Second Limited Edition 38 that was introduced in 2019. The Heritage Small Second is all about the movement, specifically a new-old-stock Minerva calibre from the early 2000s finished to an impressive, artisanal standard. Despite the exceptional movement, the watch never really gained much recognition (much like Montblanc’s other Minerva offerings), but it is certainly worth a revisit.

Initial thoughts

With its retro, two-tone dial in faddish “salmon”, the Heritage Small Second looks like one of the many vintage-inspired watches that has been (re)produced to excess by many brands in various price segments. But this stands out for the impressive degree of detail in the movement, which is finished to a degree comparable to that of artisanal independent watchmakers.

The hand-wound MB M62.00 inside is the star. According to Montblanc, it’s an “untouched” calibre from the attic made during a period when Minerva’s then-owners were dedicated to elevating the brand to the high horology hall of fame. The calibres were redesigned to maximise the potential for hand finishing.

Hand finishing is on all display with the MB M62.00, which even boasts polished teeth on the barrel ratchet and crown wheels. Though a new-old-stock movement in itself is nothing novel, a “NOS” calibre of this quality is an achievement in its own right.

Equally impressive for me is the dial. I appreciate its attention to detail, including the two-tone effect thanks to the frosted chapter ring that adds a touch of refinement. That said, the sub-seconds sits a little too high on the dial due to the relatively large, 39 mm case. At the same time, the “salmon” finish is a pretty but a bit overused right now due to its popularity.

A retro Montblanc logo takes pride of place under 12 o’clock (with the calibre name just below), while “Minerva” is relegated to a “secret signature” on the minute track. Inverting the two would have certainly given this wider recognition, but as it is now, the Heritage Small Second was largely something for those in the know, which is perhaps why only 38 pieces were made. With a retail price of about US$20,000, the Heritage Small Second was a value proposition considering the movement quality, so I hope Montblanc has a few more of these movements hidden away.

The Minerva connection

The Heritage Small Seconds is a tangible extension of the history Minerva, which was acquired by Richemont in 2006 and then folded into Montblanc. Founded in 1858 in the town of Villeret, Minerva built its reputation with high-quality stopwatches and chronographs.

But in the modern era, one of its best known models was the time-only Pythagore. In 1943, Andre Frey, the nephew of the second owner of the brand, designed the cal. 48, a hand-wind movement designed according to the golden ratio, supposedly first theorised by the Greek mathematician Pythagoras – the resulting watch was named the Pythagore.

The cal. 48, as it was then, was a solid but plain movement. But in the 1990s the movement was dressed up for a display back and the Pythagore soon became popular amongst watch enthusiasts.

An example of a 1990s Minerva Pythagore. Image – Phillips

And the cal. 48 in its original, undecorated form. Image – Phillips

The next chapter of the cal. 48 – and for Minerva as a whole – began in 2000 when the brand was taken over by Emilio Gnutti, an Italian business tycoon whose financial struggles meant his ownership was short-lived. A watch lover who also collected Ferraris and other exotic automobiles, Mr Gnutti transformed Minerva into a high horology house almost overnight by redesigning its stable of in-house movements and bestowing upon them exceptional finishing.

When Richemont landed Minerva six years later, it was buying a factory, a historical archive, and trove of beautiful calibres, many of which were already complete. The MB M62.00 inside the Heritage Small Seconds is essentially a Gnutti-era calibre.

Vintage style and mechanics

Unsurprisingly, the design of the Heritage Small Second references the Minerva Pythagore. Designed in a similar manner but with a contemporary feel, the Heritage Small Seconds attempt to capture the mid-century aesthetic of the vintage Pythagore, right down to n the old-school Montblanc logo that was original found on its pens of the 1920s and 1930s. 

While the design is somewhat generic in its retro style, the dial is finely executed and nicely detailed. Fashionably pink in hue, the dial is two-tone thanks to the granular finish on the chapter ring that has applied hour markers. The grained finish contrasts with the radial brushing that catches the light. 

An odd quirk of the dial are the red accents at six and 12 o’clock on the minute track. They are probably there to add colour to the dial, but they lack a logical purpose, making them unnecessary and distracting.

And hidden between and five o’clock is the “secret signature”, which is the first instance that the Minerva name is appearing on the dial of a Montblanc. If anything, the signature is too secret. Given the strength of the Minerva name as a watchmaker, “Minerva” would look perfectly at home alongside the Montblanc name.

The barely-there signature

Compared to Montblanc’s other Heritage models (that do not contain Minerva movements) that are 40 mm, the Heritage Small Seconds is scaled down slightly to 39 mm in diameter, while the height is 9.45 mm. While the size is still clearly modern, the dimensions are compact enough to evoke a vintage watch.

That said, the case is still quite a bit larger than the movement, which is why the seconds register sits a noticeable distance away from the edge of the dial. And on the back it is even more obvious, with the case back wide enough to accommodate two rows of engraving that leave it looking a bit cluttered.

The case is straightforward – rounded in form and entirely polished. It’s essentially identical to the other offerings in the Heritage collection, which isn’t as fancy as one expects on a watch of this price, however, this is entirely reasonable since it is obvious that majority of the effort went into the movement.

Simple as it is, the case does have boast pleasing detail in the form of a domed sapphire crystal that brings to mind the plastic crystals of vintage watches.

MB M62.00

At the heart of the Heritage Small Second is the MB M62.00, a hand-wound movement created in the early 2000s during the Gnutti ownership of the brand. Since it has largely focused on chronographs and tourbillon watches for its high-end offerings, Montblanc has used this time-only calibre only sparingly.

The movement was last found in the Villeret Seconde Authentique, a limited edition of just 58 pieces from 2013. While the Villeret featured a far more elaborate case and dial, it cost four times as much as the Heritage Small Second, illustrating the value proposition of the latter. 

The MB M62.00 

But the 58 Villeret watches still left some movements unused. According to Montblanc, 38 movements were retrieved from the archives for this Heritage limited edition. These movements were all completed prior to the Montblanc takeover, so they bear the “Minerva” and “Villeret” engravings on their bridges, giving them added pedigree.

The MB M62.00 is essentially a cal. 48 that’s been facelifted with new redesigned bridges and stellar decoration. Gone are the linear bridges of the cal. 48, which have been replaced by elegantly curved bridges.

Even details like the regulator index were refined: the plain pointer index of the cal. 48 was replaced with a swan’s neck regulator that incorporates the “devil’s tail”, a flourish taken from the levers of Minerva’s chronograph movements (and in turn inspired by the arrow-shaped Minerva logo of old). Another upgrade was the addition of a slender steel spring for the winding click – not imperative but certainly beautiful.

Like all Minerva movements used by Montblanc, the MB M62.00 utilises a screwed balance wheel with an in-house hairspring

To go along with the classically styled movement is top-class finishing. In fact, the quality of the decoration is comparable to that of high-end independent watchmakers. Being a new-old-stock movement, the calibre does reveal a handful of stray marks in less obvious places like the base plate. They do not detract from its appeal, and add to the vintage charm.

As with most of the Gnutti-era movements, emphasis was placed on decoration. This is clearly seen in the hand-polished bevels and striping on the bridges, as well as the lustrous sunray-brushing on the barrel and ratchet wheels with polished teeth. The same level of effort is visible in the steel parts, namely the black-polished regulator index along with the polished and chamfered screw heads. 

With its high level of finishing, the MB M62.00 elevates the Heritage Small Second to the realm of exceptional time-only watches in terms of quality, though not in price.

The black-polished regulator index

The bridges all sport prominent bevels

The winding wheels feature polished teeth, while the winding click spring has finely bevelled edges

Concluding thoughts

The Heritage Small Second is a carefully conceived timepiece that combines retro styling with a gorgeous movement. Despite the vintage-inspired styling, it is an obviously modern watch on the front, but the case back reveals its true nature and obvious quality. The watch is certainly a standout amongst its contemporaries, offering perhaps the best movement finishing in the price segment. 

Key Facts and Price

Montblanc Heritage Small Seconds Limited Edition 38
Ref. 124781

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 8.9 mm
Material: Steel
Water resistance: 50 m
Crystal: Sapphire

Movement: MB M62.00
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Winding: Hand wind
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Alligator strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: 38 pieces
Availability: Launched in 2019 and probably sold out
Price: US$18,900

For more, visit Montblanc.com.

Having built a reputation with original timepieces characterised by Neo-Gothic flair, Stepan Sarpaneva celebrates his 20th year in watchmaking with a pair in typical Sarpaneva style – Stardust and Stardust “Nostromo”. Limited to twenty pieces each, the duo embody Sarpaneva’s trademark aesthetic styling in their hand-finished, open-worked dials and Korona case. 

Initial thoughts

I have long admired Sarpaneva for being different. The man has a unique and often quirky vision of watchmaking that is evident in his timepieces, which are also finished well in terms of cases and dials. While Sarpaneva has not done much in terms of movements, his original approach is very much independent watchmaking.

While different from its past offerings, both Stardust variants are still recognisably Sarpaneva with their radial dial motif and sculpted case.

Stardust (left) and Stardust “Nostromo”

The iridescent colours of the Stardust are not exactly novel, but it is a different take on the fashionable “rainbow” watch and it is certainly executed well since Sarpaneva does impressive dial work in its price segment.

On the other hand, the dark colours of the Stardust “Nostromo” give it a more sci-fi feel that goes well with Sarpaneva’s house style.

Both Stardust model are priced at €16,500 each, making them slightly affordable than the comparably spec’ed Valterri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” released last year. While hefty on its face, the price tag is easily justified considering Sarpaneva’s small output and hand finishing of the dial and case.

20th anniversary

The Stardust pair was inspired by sisu, a Finnish philosophy of overcoming adversity with resilience. According to Sarpaneva, the brand’s 20-year pursuit of creating original timepieces is all about sisu. 

Executed in the typical Sarpaneva style, the limited edition pair both feature open-worked dials with stencilled numerals inspired by the numerals on space rockets and fighter jets. A rocket-shaped seconds is located eccentrically at ten o’clock, giving the dial an interesting asymmetry.

The seconds hand on the Stardust

The new pair is available in two distinct dial configurations. First is Stardust, which has a titanium dial that has been heated by hand to produce a rainbow-like oxide finish inspired by the deep-space landscapes visible from observatory telescopes.

Dial detail of “Nostromo”

“Nostromo”, on the other hand, is almost monochromatic. It has a DLC-coated dial and its hands, stencilled numerals, compass-like markings on the seconds dial, and its black polished seconds hand are coated with Super-Luminova for legibility in the dark.

The “lume” shot of the Stardust Nostromo

Both versions share the same signature case measuring 42 mm in diameter and 10 mm high. It’s brushed and polished with a heavily notched outline that is the brand’s defining case design. Like all Sarpnaeva cases, the case is crafted from high-grade stainless steel smelted in Finland. 

The Stardust models are powered by the P1003 made by complications specialist Chronode. Featuring a power reserve of 60 hours, the P1003 has been customised by Sarpaneva to feature a bespoke rotor bearing the brand’s trademark moon “face”. 

Key Facts and Price

Sarpaneva Stardust and Stardust “Nostromo”

Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 10 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Modified Chronode P1003
Functions: Hours, minutes, and small seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle, additional rubber strap

Limited edition: 40 pieces, with 20 per model
Availability: Direct from Sarpaneva
Price: €16,500 before taxes

For more, visit Sarpanevawatches.com.

Nearly fifty years since Japanese explorer Naomi Uemura (1941-1984) scaled several of the world’s tallest mountains – and crossed Greenland on a dog sledge with a Seiko on his wrist – Seiko introduces the Prospex 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation “The Naomi Uemura Limited Edition” (SLA069).

Inspired by the ref. 6105 “Captain Willard” that accompanied Uemura on his solo dog sledge run from Greenland to Alaska in 1976, the SLA069 has a mountain-motif dial and blue coating on the bezel and crown.

Initial thoughts

This limited edition makes sense philosophically since it’s a Japanese watch that pays tribute to a Japanese explorer who wore something similar on his expeditions.

The design is obviously based on the ref. 6105, a model commonly referred to as “Captain Willard” by enthusiasts after the lead character who wore one in Apocalypse Now. Seiko has done several ref. 6105 remakes in the recent past, including another Uemura edition, but the SLA069 has details that make it distinctive, like the textured dial and blue access on the case.

As a limited edition, the SLA069 is slightly priced higher than regular production “Captain Willard” divers, but not very much more, making it an appealing proposition for someone who wants a retro diver with a few modern details.

Willard style

Uemura was a legendary explorer known for feats of mountaineering and exploration before disappearing in 1984 while descending Mount Denali after reaching the summit. Best remembered for being the first person to reach the North Pole solo, Uemura also scaled five of the world’s highest peaks, including Mont Blanc and Kilimanjaro, by age 29.

The tribute to Uemura is essentially a variant of Seiko’s “Captain Willard” remake that’s based on the ref. 6105 of 1970. It retains same design but dresses it up with a dial featuring the Mont Blanc mountain range that was created with pressing and etching.

Unlike previous variants of the “Captain Willard”, the SLA069 has a 42 mm case, but it preserves the original form of the ref. 6105 along with the crown at four. In addition, the case has been finished with “super-hard coating” that is scratch resistant according to Seiko.

Also unique to this edition are the blue-hued bezel and crown

The SLA069 is powered by the cal. 8L35, an automatic movement that shares the basic architecture of the Grand Seiko cal. 9S55. The cal. 8L35, however, was developed primarily to equip Prospex dive watches.

The 8L35

Key Facts and Price

Seiko Prospex 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation “The Naomi Uemura Limited Edition”
Ref. SLA069

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 13 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. 8L35
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet

Limited edition: 500 pieces
Availability: Starting May 2023 at Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: US$2,900

For more, visit seikowatches.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Seiko.

Correction March 10, 2023: The inspiration of the SLA069 is the ref. 6105 “Captain Willard”, rather than the “Turtle” as stated in an earlier version of the story.

Responsible for some of the most reliable and well-priced diver watches on the market, Seiko is synonymous with the genre. The Japanese watchmaker continues to expand its dive watch offerings, but now with a second time zone complication.

A “modern reinterpretation” of its Hi-Beat 300 m dive watch from 1968, the Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT is the first mechanical dual-time zone dive watch in Seiko’s Prospex sports watch collection.

The SPB383

Initial thoughts

Arguably the collection offering the best value in Seiko’s line-up, Prospex is going slightly upscale with the second time zone movement, while maintaining its strong price-performance ratio.

The standout among the new models is the SPB381 with its deep green dial. While the limited edition SPB385 with its textured, “ice blue” dial is undoubtedly fancier, the SPB381 is clean and functional but appealing with its palette.

The SPB381

Though it is a two-time zone watch, the Diver’s GMT is still primarily a dive watch. So it retains the traditional elapsed time bezel and clever places the 24-hour scale on the flange around the dial.

That said, the Diver’s GMT is more accurately a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a true GMT that has an adjustable local-time hour hand (as found in pricier Grand Seiko models). This means a few extra steps when setting the time for a change in time zones, though it is a perfectly acceptable compromise considering the price.

At US$1,500 for the standard models and US$1,700 for the limited edition, the Diver’s GMT sits in a sweet spot. They are affordable in absolute terms, but also well positioned relative to Seiko’s other watches, offering much better fit and finish than the entry-level Seiko 5 Sports GMT for instance.

A practical retro diver

The Diver’s GMT is modelled on the Seiko Hi-Beat 300 m diver ref. 6159-7001 that was released in 1968. It retains the same overall design, with the exception of a relocated date window that went from three o’clock to between four and five o’clock.

The new GMT makes it debut in three distinct colourways: a pair of regular product models in green (SPB381) and black (SPB383), as well as a limited edition with an pale blue dial (SPB385) that’s part of the brand’s offerings to mark the 110th anniversary of its first watch.

The limited edition features a textured dial similar to that found in last year’s Prospex SPB333. According to Seiko, the texture is inspired by glaciers, a nod to the Japanese expeditions to the polar regions in the 1960s and 1970s, whose members were all kitted out with Seiko timekeepers.

The “ice blue” SPB385

All of three versions share the same case that’s 42 mm in diameter and 12.9 mm high. It retains the design of the 1968 original with the cushion-shaped outline and the crown at four o’clock. As is standard for Prospex dive watches, the case is equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel with a ceramic insert.

The SPB385 is delivered with an additional grey and white fabric strap woven from recycled PET bottles with a traditional technique known as ‘seichu’

The Diver’s GMT is powered by the brand-new cal. 6R54. A variant of the automatic cal. 6R35, the new calibre has been reworked to add the second time zone hand along with a slightly lengthened power reserve of 72 hours.

Because the second time zone hand is an add-on to an existing calibre, the watch has to be set to local time before adjusting the 24-hour hand to show home time. This is done with the crown in its second position; turning the crown clockwise advances the 24-hour hand while turning it counterclockwise changes the date.

The 6R54

Key Facts and Price

Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT
Ref. SPB381 (green)
Ref. SPB383 (black)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.9 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. 6R54
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and second time zone hand
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (6 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Starting June 2023 at Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: US$1,500

Key Facts and Price

Seiko Prospex Save the Ocean “Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary”
Ref. SPB385

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.9 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. 6R54
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and second time zone hand
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (6 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet, additional fabric strap

Limited edition: 4000 pieces
Availability: Starting June 2023 at Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: US$1,700

For more, visit seikowatches.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Seiko.

Since its 2020 launch, the PRX has been a crowd favourite for making the currently-fashionable integrated-bracelet aesthetic affordable. Now Tissot has announced new additions to the collection: first the base-model PRX Powermatic 80 with an “ice blue” dial, and also the PRX Chronograph with a blue “panda” dial.

Initial thoughts

The commercial success of the PRX made additional variants inevitable. Fortunately, the new additions are crowd pleasers. The colourways are familiar so neither is novel but both give enthusiasts what they want. Save for the dials, both models are intrinsically identical to their predecessors. The prices remain the same, leaving them competitively priced and strong value. 

The shade of light blue chosen for the Powermatic 80 caters in part to the ongoing craze for robin egg blue and also brings to mind the colour of the Rolex Daytona and Rolex Day-Date in platinum. For me, this is a solid update to the model that will undoubtedly be a strong seller.

Also, the Powermatic 80 now has the option of a rubber strap as an alternative to the steel bracelet (but the strap has to be purchased separately). This is the perfect solution for someone who wants a strap without seeking an aftermarket offering.

As for the chronograph, the blue “panda” dial works well. The blue accents provide subtle contrast with the vertically-brushed silver dial, while being more modern than the original “panda” model that had gold hands and markers. I still wish the chronograph would do without the awkwardly positioned date but it is what it is.

New colourways

The dial on the PRX Powermatic 80 sports the same chequerboard pattern found on earlier models, so the only new element is the colour, a light blue that gives the watch a low-key palette.

Ditto for the chronograph, which retains all the features of the earlier models, with the only change being the dial. Though the changes seem modest, the “blue” panda dial looks decidedly more contemporary than its standard “panda” counterpart that had gold-plated hands and indices.

Both watches retain the same case and movement as before. The three-hander is still powered by the Powermatic 80.111, based on the ETA C07.111. The Tissot version of the calibre has been modified to give it a power reserve of 80 hours. Amongst its features is a free-sprung balance wheel and anti-magnetic Nivachron hairspring.

Meanwhile, the chronograph contains the Valjoux A05 H31, essentially a ETA Valjoux 7753 that’s been upgraded to have a longer power reserve of 60 hours.

Key facts and price

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80
Ref. T137.407.11.351.00

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 10.9 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Powermatic 80.111
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet with folding clasp, with rubber strap available separately

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Tissot boutiques and retailers
Price: US$675; or 990 Singapore dollars

Tissot PRX Chronograph Automatic
Ref. T137.427.11.011.01

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 14.5 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Valjoux A05 H31
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet with folding clasp

Availability: At Tissot boutiques and retailers
Price: US$1,825, or 2,650 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Tissotwatches.com.

Last month, Cartier relaunched the Tank Francaise, a bestseller in the 1990s and early 2000s and also  the first Tank to feature an integrated bracelet. Retaining the design elements of the 1996 original, the new Tank Francaise nonetheless sports a sleeker form and a more modern appearance overall. In many ways it’s not merely a remake but an entirely new watch.

Initial thoughts

When Cartier revealed the revamped Tank Francaise 27 years after the original, I was sceptical for several reasons. One because the original isn’t yet vintage enough to be a classic, but it is old enough that it might be stale. Another is the fact that it has been around for so long – the heyday of the original was the late 1990s but it remained in the catalogue until recently – the design feels too familiar.

So I naturally wondered if the brand would do it justice to the model in redesigning it. After checking out the new Tank Francaise, I can certainly say it is well done and just right (apart from a few minor shortcomings in execution, like the date on the large model).

The large model in steel

The new Tank Francaise retains the style of the original, so it still has a bit of retro, 1990s style but not too much so it manages to look current. It still has the look of the original, with a similar outline and profile, but now with cleaner lines and neater details like a recessed crown. Other details like the brushed finish and sticker-appliqué numerals on the dials adds texture and visual interest up close.

The large model is the only one with an automatic movement and date (so far)

That said, two shortcomings stand out for me. One is the date window on the larger model, which is too small and too far from the edge of the dial. It simply looks out of place and the design would have been better off without it. Another is the the fit of the bracelet end-links; there was more vertical play between the end-links and the case than expected.

More broadly, I hope the Tank Francaise line-up will have more mechanical offerings. Currently only the large model in steel has an automatic movement while all the rest are quartz. The convenience of quartz is undeniable but mechanical movements certainly appeal more to enthusiasts.

In terms of price, the Tank Francaise is fair value by Cartier standards. The large model with an automatic movement costs US$5,500, which places it amongst the most affordable mechanical Cartier watches. However, it is pricey compared to offerings from brands like Tudor or Longines, but the premium is arguably justified by the iconic nature of the Tank design and Cartier’s history as a maker of form watches.

Revamp redux

The original Tank Francaise was itself a revamp of earlier Tank designs, which number several dozen at least. All trace their origins to the very first Tank wristwatch designed in 1917 by Louis Cartier, who took inspiration from the Renault FT light tanks utilised by the French forces during the First World War. Revolutionary in design, the Tank was one of the first form wristwatches ever designed and has enjoyed incredible longevity as a timeless design that’s been constantly restyled to create new incarnations.

One such incarnation arrived in 1996 as the Tank Francaise as Cartier was transitioning away from the low-end Must watches. Characterised by an angular case, it was the first Tank to feature an integrated bracelet that continued the case design. It was first available in stainless steel or gold, as well as a combination of both, and later as a jewellery watch with diamonds and other precious stones on the case and bracelet.

An example of the original Tank Francaise, this one a small model from 2005 in steel and gold. Image – Sotheby’s

One of the “it” watches of the late 1990s and early 2000s, the Tank Francaise was so successful that its sales swiftly reached one million units. Though its popularity faded in later years, the Tank Francaise in its original guise remained in the catalogue until recently, giving it an impressive lifespan of almost three decades.

Nips and tucks

The original Tank Francaise was naturally a watch of the 1990s. Its replacement, on the other hand, has the advantage of 21st century design and production techniques.

As a result, the revamped Tank Francaise boasts cleaner, sharped details. The dials are now entirely brushed, while the original had either a simple grained dial or fancier guilloche dial. And instead of the printed Roman numerals, the dials now feature reflective metallic appliqué stickers that give them a more dynamic look.

The dial finish varies subtly according to the case metal. The steel models feature a vertically-brushed, silvered dial with dark grey Roman numerals, while the gold version has a radially-brushed champagne-tone dial and black numerals. 

The steel version has a silvered dial with reflective, dark grey numerals

While the dial design has changed, the overall aesthetic is still classic Cartier with a railway minute track and blued steel sword hands. The look is appealing, but even though the brushed dials give the new Tank Francaise a more modern look, retaining the guilloche dial, at least on some variants, would have added more flavour to the line.

And in the gold the dial gets a pale champagne finish with reflective, black numerals

It’s worth noting the dial of the large model in steel, which is the only mechanical model and also the only one with a date. When the original Tank Francaise had a date, it would be at six for a symmetrical layout.

Now the date has been moved to the three o’clock position where it unfortunately looks awkward, both because of its position and small size – the date window is disproportionately small compared to the rest of the dial.

Just like the dial, the case and bracelet have been facelifted while preserving the look of the original. The adjustments to the case and bracelet design are individually minor, but together they give the watch a more streamlined and cohesive look.

Amongst the changes are redesigned links that allow the bracelet to flow better into the lines of the case. Another is the crown that sits in a shallow recess on the case side. This lowers the profile of the crown slightly, giving the watch a trimmer silhouette.

The only criticism of the bracelet lies in the end links that reveal a fair degree of play. This is made more obvious since the border between the end links and case on each side is unobscured, long, and horizontal.

Although the redesign results in a more streamlined watch, the new Tank Francaise feels upsized over the original, especially in its largest size. Compared to other Cartier models, the Tank Francaise is not quite as chunky as the equivalent Santos de Cartier, but is certainly more chunky than the Tank Louis Cartier or Santos Dumont.

None of the three sizes of the Tank Francaise are especially large watches, but they feel solid. This was probably intentional on the part of its designers who probably wanted to give it a substantial, bracelet-like feel on the wrist.

In typical Cartier style, the three sizes are labelled simply: small, medium, and large. Only the steel model is available in three sizes. The gold models are only in small or medium, with the option of diamonds on the bezel.

The Tank Francaise in steel

And in 18k yellow gold

Enthusiasts, however, might be disappointed that practically all of the Tank Francaise line-up is quartz (albeit “high-autonomy quartz” that has an eight-year battery life), except for the large model.

It’s powered by the  cal. 1853 MC, which is actually a Sellita SW100. Developed for ladies watches, it’s a no-frills automatic movement that’s a compact 17.2 mm in diameter, explaining its very short power reserve of 37 hours. The caliber is definitely an entry-level movement, but the Tank Francaise is priced as an entry-level Cartier.

The back of the steel model that conceals the Sellita base movement

Concluding thoughts

The revamp of the Tank Francaise was long overdue but done right for the most part. The changes were just right, resulting in a watch that still has the distinctive character of the original, but with neater details and a more hefty feel in hand. Some details, namely the date and end links, should have been executed better, but overall the new Tank Francaise accomplishes what it sets out to do, update a 1990s design to suit modern tastes and manufacturing standards. 

Key Facts and Price

Cartier Tank Francaise
Ref. CRWSTA0067 (large model, steel, automatic)
Ref. CRWSTA0074 (medium model, steel, quartz)
Ref. CRWSTA0065 (small model, steel, quartz)
Ref. CRWGTA0113 (medium model, yellow gold, quartz)
Ref. CRWGTA0114 (small model, yellow gold, quartz)

Diameter: Large 36.7 mm by 30.5 mm; medium 32 mm by 27 mm; small 25.7 mm by 21.2 mm
Height: Large 10.1 mm; medium 7.1 mm; small 6.8 mm
Material: Steel or 18k yellow gold
Water resistance: 30 m
Crystal: Sapphire

Movement: 1853 MC (Sellita SW100) for automatic model; or “high autonomy” quartz
Functions: Automatic has hours, minutes, seconds, and date; quartz has hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 37 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Cartier boutiques and retailers

Price:

Large, steel: US$5,500 or 7,700 Singapore dollars 
Medium, steel: US$4,450 or 6,300 Singapore dollars 
Small, steel: US$3,550 or 4,950 Singapore dollars

Medium, gold without diamonds: US$24,300 or 34,600 Singapore dollars 
Small, gold without diamonds: US$20,900 or 29,700 Singapore dollars

Medium, gold with diamonds: US$30,700 or 43,600 Singapore dollars
Small, gold with diamonds: US$27,500 or 39,200 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Cartier.com

Grand Seiko has just opened the first of its own boutiques in Asia outside of Japan, which is located at the Marina Bay Sands casino resort in Singapore. Situated along a corridor alongside major luxury watch brands, the store reflects Grand Seiko’s ambitions in positioning itself alongside establishment brands.

The inaugural store run by Grand Seiko’s recently-established Asian arm, it becomes the new platform for enthusiasts to experience the brand’s timepieces, including its top-of-the-line complications. It’s the first milestone for Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific, the joint venture set up last year with its longtime retailer in the region, Thong Sia Watch Co. Ltd. 

Akio Naito, Chairman of Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific and President of the Seiko Watch Corporation, explained the choice of the city state for its first boutique in the region: “Singapore is home to some of the most knowledgeable and passionate luxury watch enthusiasts in the world, and we are excited to provide them with a more direct interaction with the brand…”

Keeping in line with the brand’s philosophy, “The Nature of Time”, the boutique’s interior is modern while sticking to traditional materials and details. The store sports a clean, modern design with warm wood for the floor and cabinets, retaining the subtle, Japanese refinement that the brand is known for. 

The boutique is also the place for clients and enthusiasts to learn more about the brand. In particular, it allows them to experience up-close some of the rare timepieces in the brand’s lineup, including the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 that was awarded the Chronometry Prize at last year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).

The Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003.

The Grand Seiko boutique is located at the Marina Bay Sands and is open daily from 10:30 am-10:00 pm:

#B2M-35 The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands
2 Bayfront Avenue
Singapore 018792

For more, visit grand-seiko.com.

Correction March 1, 2023: The Singapore store is the first Grand Seiko boutique in Asia outside of Japan that is run by Grand Seiko itself. Prior boutiques are operated by third-party retailers or distributors.