Perhaps the most distinctive of all Radiomir designs, the “California” was nonetheless absent from Panerai’s catalogue for some time. Now it makes a comeback as the Radiomir California PAM01349.

Essentially a cooler (and more expensive) version of the new Radiomir “Otto Giorni”, the PAM01349 preserves the signature features of the design, including the dial and blue hands, but works in a few concessions to modern tastes, including a smoked green finish for the dial as a scaled-down, 45 mm case.

Initial thoughts

The California has long been my favourite Radiomir so I am glad it is making a comeback. While it looks slightly vintage, the PAM01349 is clearly not a vintage reissue, which is a good thing. The combination of a green dial and aged case is an appealing one.

However, the PAM01349 costs about 20% more than the Radiomir models with the same movement, a premium that isn’t grounded in any tangible features and thus hard to justify.

Romans and Arabics

The dial is classic “California” with Roman numerals on its top half and Arabic numbers on the lower half. Originally designed for legibility so each half of the dial is easily distinguishable from the other, the California dial was synonymous with the Radiomir.

The PAM01349 preserves the original design, but the texture and colour are contemporary. Like most other recent releases, the dial has a grained surface and smoked finish, both in keeping with current tastes. The dial treatment gives the watch a vintage feel, but avoids looking like a vintage remake since it is clearly a modern aesthetic.

Down from the 47 mm of the original and earlier California models, the case is 45 mm. Like other recent Radiomir launches, it is made of “Brunito” eSteel. The alloy is formed from recycled steel and then given a “burnished” (brunito in Italian) finish that involves polishing, black coating, and then tumble-polishing to partially wear off the coating, resulting in a worn appearance.

Inside is the P.5000, Panerai’s basic long-power-reserve movement. No frills and hand-wind, it has a long running time of eight days.

Key facts and price

Panerai Radiomir California
Ref. PAM01349

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: eSteel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 mm

Movement: P.5000
Features: Hours, minutes and small seconds
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: Eight days

Strap: Calf leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: Regular production
Availability: At Panerai boutiques only
Price: €12,500; or 17,900 Singapore dollars

For more information, visit Panerai.com.

With a distinctive style inspired by historical military dive watches, Panerai has pivoted to a more contemporary aesthetic in recent years. This year the brand is once again looking back into its history with the Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01347 and PAM01348. Both models are modelled on historical designs but executed in modern colours and finishes.

Initial thoughts 

Both watches are essentially facelifted versions of the Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992, sharing the same dial layout and in-house manual movement. While the PAM00992 was historically inspired (though not a remake of any one model), the newly launched pair is clearly more modern.

The two watches are clearly targeted at someone who likes the Panerai style, but wants something more current in terms of colours and textures. With that in mind, the PAM01347 and PAM01348 are sensible and successful new launches.

Both watches use recycled steel for the case, but more notable is the “aged” case finish that goes well with the textured, smoked dial.

Otto Giorni

Like most Radiomir models, the PAM01347 and PAM01348 are rooted in the dive watch developed by Panerai (and produced by Rolex) in 1935 for the Italian navy.

With its distinctive cushion case and wire lugs (recognisable as a Rolex pocket watch with additional, soldered lugs), the Radiomir is one of Panerai’s signature models alongside the Luminor.

While the historical Radiomir was a massive 47 mm in diameter, more recent Radiomir models are 45 mm,  as is the new pair, making them more wearable.

The case is made of eSteel, an alloy made from recycled scrap steel. Named “Brunito” (Italian for “burnished”), the aged finish on the case is the result of a multi-step process that starts with sandblasted and polishing, followed by a black PVD coating that is finally partially removed by tumble polishing. 

Inside the 45 mm case is the P.5000, an in-house manual movement with an eight-day power reserve, hence the nickname “Otto Giorni”, Italian for “eight days”.

The other key element that makes up the Panerai aesthetic is the dial.  Simple and minimalist in design, the dial is constructed in the brand’s trademark “sandwich” style, consisting of a lower plate painted with Super-Luminova markings and an upper plate with corresponding cut-outs. Both models have the same textured dial with a smoked finish that darkens towards the edges.

Key facts and price

Panerai Radiomir “Otto Giorni”
Ref. PAM01347 (brown)
Ref. PAM01348 (blue)

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: eSteel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 mm

Movement: P.5000
Features: Hours, minutes and small seconds
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: Eight days

Strap: Calf leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: Regular production
Availability: At Panerai boutiques and retailers
Price: €9,900; or 14,200 Singapore dollars

For more information, visit Panerai.com.

The long anticipated revival of Urwerk’s first model has finally arrived: the UR-102 “Reloaded” is modelled on the watch Urwerk presented at its debut Basel fair in 1997.

The new UR-102 preserves the pebble-like form of the original but with enough tweaks to make it different, most notably with a larger case and revamped time display. But the new watch comes with a big caveat: it’s available only as part of a box set containing two UR-102s, one in titanium and the other all black.

Initial thoughts

I was looking forward to Urwerk’s revival of the UR-102. And I’m not disappointed with the result – except for the fact that it’s sold only as a pair.

The “Reloaded” version is obviously modelled on the 1997 original, but it’s also clearly a different creation. For one, it’s larger and the time display has been redesigned. Add to that the restyled lugs and repositioned crown and you have a watch that’s very much distinct.

In short, the new UR-102 is not a remake but a successful and appealing reinterpretation of the original. Leaving aside its origins, the UR-102 also has intrinsic appeal. It’s a clean, attractive design with sci-fi vibes.

But the UR-102 is being sold as a pair – both identical save for the case finish. Despite the merits of the watch and appeal of the brand, I dislike the fact that buyers are compelling to buy two near-identical watches (or find someone to split the set with, which from personal experience is harder than it sounds).

Fortunately it is a certainty that future iterations of the UR-102 will be launched, as is typical practice for Urwerk. I’m guessing they’ll be available individually, making them more accessible.

Coming full circle

At 41 mm the UR-102 “Reloaded” is noticeably larger than the 1997 original that was just 38 mm wide.

The enlarged case retains the same streamlined outline that was inspired by the Soviet-era Sputnik satellite. While the original had a conventionally positioned crown, the new UR-102 has the crown at four o’clock, further differentiating it from the original.

Offered with either a matte titanium or matte, black-coated titanium, the case also featured redesigned lugs that are more angular and prominent than those on the original.

The complication remains a wandering hours but the display now includes script relating to the history of the UR-102 as well as the distance travelled by the Earth around the Sun since the model was launched in 1997.

And of course the new UR-102 is powered by a contemporary calibre, the automatic cal. 20.2 that’s most probably a Zenith Elite base movement with Urwerk’s own wandering hours module.

The two versions of the UR-102 “Reloaded” are available only in a box set that’s limited to 25.

Key Facts and Price

Urwerk UR-102 “Reloaded” (box set of two watches)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 11.3 mm
Material: Steel and titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 20.2
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Textured rubber and fabric with pin buckle

Limited edition: 25 box sets
Availability: At Urwerk retailers
Price: CHF56,000 excluding taxes

For more, visit Urwerk.com.

As is now tradition, Patek Philippe is unveiling its Rare Handcrafts collection for the year at its boutique in Geneva alongside Watches & Wonders (W&W) that takes place at the same time. Open to the public from April 1 to 15, Rare Handcrafts 2023 encompasses 67 timepieces – including 22 Dome Clocks and a dozen pocket watches – all decorated with a variety of artisanal techniques ranging from wood marquetry to cloisonné enamel.

Amongst the highlights from the collection is the Calatrava ref. 5189G-001 “1948 Nations Grand Prix” (pictured above), a wristwatch with a cloisonné enamel dial depicting the automobile race that took place in Geneva from 1946 to 1950.

Another is the pocket watch “Leopard” ref. 995/137J-001 that is finished with wood marquetry on its back and champlevé enamel along the case and bow.

“Leopard” ref. 995/137J-001

In addition to the new launches, the exhibition also has on show a selection of vintage and antique timepieces from the Patek Philippe Museum.

Rare Handcrafts 2023 is open daily to the public from April 1 to 15, except on Sundays.

Patek Philippe Salons
Rue du Rhône 41
1204 Genève
Switzerland

Admission is free but registration is required and it can be done on Patek.com.

After more than a year of rumours, LVMH finally confirmed the long expected with its February announcement of the relaunch of Daniel Roth. And now the brand officially debuts its inaugural watch, the Tourbillon Souscription.

Modelled on the Daniel Roth tourbillon of 1988, the Tourbillon Souscription is almost a remake of the original from thirty-five years ago. It retains the same styling characterised by a double-ellipse case and one-minute tourbillon at six, but is entirely new in terms of mechanics: inside is a brand-new mechanical movement developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton (LFT).

Initial thoughts

I got in touch with Daniel Roth and his wife Nicolas after learning of the brand’s revival. They indicated their approval of the project. Their approval will probably have little impact on the new watches since they aren’t involved in the brand’s comeback, but it is certainly good to know.

Being a homage to the brand’s origins, the Tourbillon Souscription is a good opening act in its revival. But for the resurrected brand to have longevity and relevance, it would have to do more than remakes; it will have to create new and original products that channel the spirit of the originals, a point I made in my earlier editorial.

A Daniel Roth tourbillon from the 1990s

The Tourbillon Souscription is clearly inspired by the original watches of the 1990s. It retains the same dimensions and almost all the details, right down to the hobnail guilloche dial. In fact, it’s close enough to the original that the two are probably indistinguishable at a distance, at least to casual observers.

But enough has been changed that the keenest eyes will instantly recognise this as a modern-day watch, most obviously with the champagne dial, a colour that was never available with the originals.

Another tweak is the revised typography on the dial, which I am not a fan of. Although the markings on the dial are identical to that on the original, they are now in a sans serif font that seems at odds with the classical nature of the design. According to a brand insider, the modern font was chosen to reflect the contemporary nature of the Tourbillon Souscription. While I can appreciate the reasoning, I think it looks out of place.

The Tourbillon Souscription will cost CHF140,000 before taxes – fair considering the quality and proprietary movement. And that is also true when comparing it to comparable offerings on the market today. However, the price still almost double the most recent auction results for a 1990s Daniel Roth tourbillon (which is arguably valued too strongly today considering its fairly ordinary Lemania movement).

Although I have yet to see the prototype of the Tourbillon Souscription, I am sure it will feel exactly the same as an original since both are practically the same size.

More importantly, I am confident that the quality of execution is as good as that of the original, perhaps even slightly better. The team at LFT is talented and also enjoys the advances in manufacturing and finishing that have accumulated in the three decades since Mr Roth founded his brand.

Though hidden behind the case back, the DR001 movement inside has the details that one would expect from LFT, which was founded by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. The two played a crucial role in the Laurent Ferrier tourbillon, one of the better high-end tourbillon movements of recent years, so they clearly have what to takes to create a fine movement.

And from a philosophical standpoint, the Tourbillon Souscription might be even more “independent watchmaking” in terms of mechanics despite LFT being a subsidiary of Louis Vuitton. That’s because the calibre inside is unique to Daniel Roth, whereas the original Daniel Roth watches relied on either stock or lightly modified Lemania calibres.

The opening act

A brand that enjoyed its heyday in the 1990s, Daniel Roth was successful then because of its style and complications, most notably the tourbillon, of which several hundred were made. After the brand parted from its namesake founder due to financial distress, it bounced around several owners, before finding its (likely) permanent home at LFT, the complications factory owned by Louis Vuitton.

The revived brand’s opening act is the Tourbillon Souscription, which according to the brand is based on the C187, a double-faced tourbillon with power reserve and date indicators on its back, the brand’s very first model of 1988. Like the early examples of the C187, the Tourbillon Souscription has a hobnail guilloche dial, a motif that was later replaced by vertical fluting.

That said, the Tourbillon Souscription is single faced with a solid back. That means it’s actually remake of the less common single-faced tourbillon of the 1990s, the C186.

The Tourbillon Souscription measures 38.6 mm by 35.5 mm on its front, the same as the classic Daniel Roth case, but stands just 9.2 mm high, thinner than the C187 and about the same as the C186 single-face tourbillon.

But unlike any of the originals, the Tourbillon Souscription has a champagne-tone dial, something that was not available in the original series. Interestingly, it is produced by Kari Voutilainen’s workshop, the same location that produces Voutilainen watches (as opposed to Comblemine, the dial maker owned by Voutilainen).

As a result, the dial connects the past and present of independent watchmaking: it is an element of contemporary independent watchmaking inside a watch that pays tribute to a much earlier era of the same genre.

As it was with the original, the tourbillon cage at six o’clock is fitted with a three-armed seconds hand that is read in tandem with the triple-scale for the seconds. Although the tourbillon regulator largely preserves the aesthetics of the original, it is noticeably different. Most apparent is the fact that the tourbillon now has a lower profile, with the upper cage sitting on the same plane as the seconds scale.

Inside is the DR001 developed by LFT, the complications specialist that is responsible for Louis Vuitton’s increasingly impressive stable of complicated watches.

Because the cofounders of LFT, Messrs Navas and Barbasini, were both instrumental in conceiving the Laurent Ferrier LF619 tourbillon movement, it is perhaps unsurprising that the DR001 shares a few of the LF619’s features. One is the  generous 80-hour power reserve, and another is the mirror-polished linear winding click for the barrel ratchet wheel.

The Tourbillon Souscription will be sold on a “subscription” basis, meaning that buyers will have to pay a deposit upon order confirmation, while the balance is due upon delivery in early 2024. The watches will be available at a handful of retailers around the world.

Key facts and price

Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
Ref. DR0011YG-01

Diameter: 38.6 mm by 35.5 mm
Height: 9.2 mm
Material: 18K yellow gold 3N
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: DR001
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, and a one-minute tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual winding
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Calfskin strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: 20 pieces 
Availability: Only available through selected retail partners of Daniel Roth via subscription with delivery by early 2024
Price: CHF140,000 excluding taxes

For more, visit Daniel-roth.ch.

In a first for an establishment watch brand, Tudor is making all of its new launches available on the first day of Watches & Wonders (W&W), the trade fair that is the watch industry’s largest. The trade fair opens in the morning of Monday, March 27 and starting at noon the same day, the entire Tudor line-up of new models will be available at its pop-up store in downtown Geneva.

Located off the city’s main shopping street of Rue du Rhône, the Tudor pop-up store is situated right beside the F.P. Journe boutique. It will be the first store in Switzerland to offer the Black Bay 58 Bronze (pictured above), a model available only in Tudor boutiques.

While historical practice for the watch industry was to introduce new models in spring and have them available in stores in summer or later, availability has been slowly inching forward as watch brands realise the advantage of having watches for sale as soon as they are visible online.

While W&W remains a trade fair for industry insiders, namely retailers and journalists, to see new products, Tudor’s pop-up store essentially makes its “novelties” available to the public at the same time. It is not unimaginable that one day new models will be available on the spot at W&W or its future equivalent.

Pop-up details

Operated by Swiss retailer Bucherer, the pop-up store opens on the first day of Watches & Wonders, Monday, March 27, 2023 at from 12 pm. It will be open from Monday to Saturday for a month.

Place de Longemalle 15
1204 Geneva
Geneva, Switzerland

For more, visit Tudorwatch.com.

A pioneer in solar-powered watches, Citizen has hundreds of such models in its catalogue. But the brand’s latest solar-powered offering, the Eco-Drive 365, is different. Distinctly 1970s in style, the oversized and chunky case is modelled on the Quartz E.F.A. of 1973, one of the brand’s first quartz watches.

Named after its 365-day power reserve, the Eco-Drive 365 makes its debut in three variants: a pair of regular-production models in muted colours as well as a limited edition remake of the Quartz E.F.A. that celebrates the 1970s with its ruby-and-gilt dial.

From left: The Eco-Drive 365 in steel, black-coated steel, and the limited edition with synthetic ruby markers

Initial thoughts

Most Eco-Drive watches are either chunky sports watches or conservative and plain. The Eco-Drive 365, on the other hand, is bold and retro. In other words, it is a different solar-powered watch.

Almost over the top in style, the large case easily evokes the chunky forms typical of the 1970s. On its face the combination of 1970s design and a solar-powered movement might seem peculiar, but the styling makes this far more interesting than the typical Eco-Drive. Citizen would certainly do well to install the Eco-Drive movements in more watches like this.

I’ve yet to see the Eco-Drive 365 in the metal, but assuming the build quality is on par with similarly priced Citizen watches, it should have good tactile feel, particularly for the US$500-ish price tag.

And while it costs slightly more at over US$800, the limited edition is undoubtedly the coolest watch of the trio. It’s essentially a remake of the Quartz E.F.A. but bigger and bolder. The large size combined with the ruby hour markers and gold chapter ring are 1970s style almost to excess, but it is striking and original.

The regular production model in steel with a black-coated bezel

Retro tech

Citizen launched the Quartz E.F.A. – short for “Extra Fine Adjustment” – in October 1973, just a month after its first-ever quartz watch. While the Quartz E.F.A. was the brand’s second quartz watch, it was Citizen’s first top-of-the-line quartz watch, explaining its unusually elaborate design.

Priced at almost double the standard model with a similar but non-E.F.A. movement, the Quartz E.F.A. featured a gilt chapter ring with synthetic ruby hour markers – both of which have made it into the Eco-Drive 365 limited edition.

The Quartz E.F.A. of 1973

Sporting a sparkly dial finish, the dial of the Eco-Drive 365 is modelled on that in the vintage original, including the chapter ring with integral hour markers.

As with most Eco-Drive watches, the dial is translucent, allowing light to charge the solar cells below the dial. The dial itself is actually polycarbonate finished with “glittering accents”. Notably, the new watch does away with the date on the chapter ring, allowing for a symmetrical, unbroken hour track – an improvement for purists no doubt.

Also reproduced on the Eco-Drive 365 is the shell-like case of the Quartz E.F.A. But the design has been scaled up to 42.5 mm wide and 11.1 mm high (while the original was under 40 mm wide), giving the Eco-Drive 365 a modern-day size.

Like the Quartz E.F.A., the limited edition has an entirely polished steel case

The Eco-Drive 365 limited edition is essentially a remake of the Quartz E.F.A. so its dial features four synthetic rubies set. Because the date has been repositioned closer to the dial centre, the chapter ring can accommodate four rubies at the quarters, unlike on the Quartz E.F.A. that had only three ruby markers due to the date at three.

The rubies are naturally products of Japanese technology: they are a type of synthetic gemstone known as Crescent Vert that was developed by Japanese materials giant Kyocera.

The regular production versions of the Eco-Drive 365 retain the same overall design, dimensions, and sparkling dial, but are rendered entirely in muted colours. Both feature a radially brushed case – a finish typical of the 1970s – along with a matching steel bracelet.

One version is entirely black thanks to an ion-plating process, while the other retains the natural steel finish with a black-coated bezel for contrast.

All three models are powered by the E365, a solar-powered movement that will run for 365 days on a full charge. The E365 is rated to within 15 seconds a month – half a second a day on average.

Key facts and price

Citizen Eco-Drive 365
Ref. BN1014-55E (steel case)
Ref. BN1015-52E (black case)
Ref. BN1010-05E (steel with lab-grown ruby indices)

Diameter: 42.5 mm
Height: 11.1 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. E365
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Frequency: Quartz
Winding: Solar
Power reserve: One year

Strap: Matching steel bracelet for BN1014-55E and BN1015-52E; calfskin strap for BN1010-05E

Limited edition: 1200 pieces for the BN1010-05E, otherwise regular production 
Availability: Starting last quarter of 2023 at Citizen boutiques and retailers
Price:
BN1014-55E – US$480
BN1015-52E – US$530
BN1010-05E – US$875

For more, visit Citizenwatch-global.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Citizen.

Correction March 15, 2023: The dial of the Eco-Drive 365 is not a solar cell, rather it a translucent polycarbonate dial that allows light to charge the solar cell just below. Additionally, the Quartz E.F.A. was the second quartz watch launched by Citizen, rather than the first. 

Popular for making artisanal dials affordable, Seiko’s Presage Craftsmanship series has been facelifted for the 110th anniversary of the brand’s first watch. The dials continue to be decorated with techniques ranging from fired enamel to Japanese lacquer, but the Presage case has been refined into an all-new design.

The restyled Presage is making its debut as a quartet of limited editions with dials in fired enamel (SPB393), traditional lacquer known as urushi (SPB395), Arita porcelain (SPB397), and translucent Shippo enamel (SPB399).

The Shippo enamel dial of the SPB399

Initial thoughts

Amongst the most affordable watches with fancy dials, the Presage Craftsmanship series has always been a good value proposition. Made with artisanal techniques typically found on pricier watches, the dials are all impressively executed especially considering the price, which starts at US$1,450 for the enamel dial SPB393 and tops out at US$2,050 for the SPB399 with a Shippo enamel dial.

While the dial work was always impressive, earlier models had cases that were simple in form and somewhat chunky. Now Seiko has solved that with a redesigned case that appears thinner and more refined. The new case style makes it debut on this quartet but given its merits will inevitably become standard for future Presage Craftsmanship models.

Due to the 6R series movements within, the new case is still large (the larger model is almost 41 mm wide and over 14 mm high) but it has been significantly refined in both style and finish. This is most obvious in the lugs, which now boast a more elegant form with a prominent polished bevel. The new case design is not only more attractive but also more suited to the dial decoration.

The new Presage watches don’t cost very much more than their predecessors, so they continue to offer good value while being more appealing, thanks in particular to the revamped case.

It’s all in the face

The limited-edition quartet are the first watches to sport the redesigned Presage case. Conceived to appear slimmer on the wrist, the new case also features more refined details, most notably slimmer lugs with a polished bevel along the outer edge.

Alongside the new case is a revamped dial. Unlike past Presage models that used either Roman numerals or baton indices, the new dials feature both in an alternating sequence. The use of alternating indices gives the dial a more modern look while complementing the sub-dials and indicators better.

The SPB393 with a white enamel dial

The quartet of limited editions is actually made up of a pair of distinct models. Each pair of models share the same case and movement but differ in terms of dial finish. The first pair is made up of the the SPB393 with a fired enamel dial and the SPB395 with an urushi dial.

Featuring the familiar red numeral at 12 o’clock – a detail taken from Seiko’s first wristwatch of 1913 – the fired enamel dial is produced by the Fuji Porcelain Enamel Co., Ltd., where a team led by veteran craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa has been supplying enamel dials for the Presage since 2016.

The SPB393

Executed in a more unusual colour of warm brown, the dial of the SPB395 is finished in traditional Japanese lacquer or urushi. Created with sap from the lacquer tree, urushi is applied to a variety of everyday objects such as bowls and chopsticks, and even samurai armour, for both decoration and protection. The urushi dials are produced in the workshop of Isshu Tamura, a lacquer artist who is also responsible for the dial of the recent Grand Seiko “First” SBGW295 in titanium.

Both the SPB393 and SPB395 have a slightly more compact case of 40.2 mm by 12.8 mm compared to the other two watches in the quartet. Both are powered by the 6R24 movement, an automatic calibre that includes a power reserve display, date, and day of the week. As a result of the triple complication, the dial has a pleasing vertical symmetry with each displayed on a fan-shaped scale.

The SPB395

With a case that is slightly larger, the SPB397 and SPB399 also feature slightly more elaborate dial decoration.

Both share the same case that is 40.6 mm wide and 14.1 mm high, while the movement is the 6R27. The movement has a power reserve display at nine and the date at six, creating an asymmetrical dial layout.

The SPB397 has a dial made of Arita porcelain, Chinaware produced in town of Arita. The very first porcelain produced in Japan was made in Arita, thanks to the clay found around the town.

The SPB397

Equally traditional and artisanal is the Shippo enamel dial of the SPB399. More widely known as Owari Shippo or Owari cloisonné, the enamelling technique was conceived in the 19th century by craftsmen who were inspired by enamelled objects imported from Holland.

The enamelled dial is the work of Ando Cloisonne Co., where Wataru Totani leads a team of enamellers who first glaze the patterned dial base with liquid enamel, then fire it in an oven to melt the enamel.

Once fired, the dial is polished to give it a reflective finish that reveals the translucency of the enamel, through which the stamped motif on the dial is visible.

The SPB399

Key Facts and Price

Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series
Ref. SPB393 (enamel)
Ref. SPB395 (urushi)

Diameter: 40.2 mm
Height: 12.8 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 6R24
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day of the week, and power reserve indicator
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Leather with folding clasp

Limited edition: 1,500 pieces each
Availability: Starting June 2023 at Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: SPB393 – US$1,450; SPB395 – US$ 1,850

Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series
Ref. SPB397 (Arita porcelain)
Ref. SPB399 (Shippo enamel)

Diameter: 40.6 mm
Height: 14.1 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 6R27
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, and power reserve indicator
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Leather with folding clasp

Limited edition: 1,500 pieces for SPB397; 800 pieces for SPB399
Availability: Starting June 2023 at Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: SPB397 – US$1,850; SPB399 – US$2,050

For more, visit seikowatches.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Seiko.

Correction March 10, 2023: The first Seiko wristwatch was made in 1913, and not 1923 as stated in an earlier version of the the story.

Cartier’s best known watches are often symmetrical and formal, think Tank or Santos, but also animal inspired, most notably the Panthère. But its latest suite of ladies’ watches is unconventional in its mix of forms and finishes.

Inspired by the jewellery collection of the same name, the Clash [Un]limited is edgy, modern, and different from the brand’s usual offerings.

Initial thoughts 

While I can’t profess to be an expert in ladies’ watches, the Clash is both an interesting and appealing design to my eye. It is an intriguing mix of design elements that might seem ill-matched on their face but somehow work well together. So the dial and facetted crystal are obvious retro, but they go well with the studs and balls of the bracelet; the whole is greater than the sum of the parts.

At the same time, the edgy styling of the Clash doesn’t feel like Cartier, which has a predominantly classical or Art Deco house style. In fact, the Clash seems like something from a brand more associated with streetwear, like Louis Vuitton for instance. That said, the colourful variant of the Clash does evoke Cartier’s signature Tutti Fruitti jewellery.

Chic yet eccentric

Launched in 2019, Clash de Cartier was perhaps Cartier’s first collection of jewellery with a distinct streetwear aesthetic, one heavy on studs and spikes. According to Cartier, however, Clash took inspiration from the work of Jeanne Toussaint (1887-1976), the brand’s longtime artistic director who favoured geometric shapes and was responsible for classics like the Panthere.

Regardless of its inspiration, the range of jewellery gave birth to Clash [Un]limited. Chic yet eccentric, the Clash watch is characterised by an articulated bracelet featuring rolling balls as centre links.

While the designs are extravagant, the Clash watches boast surprisingly nuanced detail. The crystal, for instance, has facetted edges, bringing to mind vintage ladies’ watches of the mid 20th century. And the outer links of the bracelet sport alternating brushed and polished finishing.

The collection is made up of five models, two of which are limited edition. All share the same dimensions of 18.4 mm by 32.8 mm and a thickness of 8.1 mm. Naturally, the movement inside a no-fuss quartz calibre.

The base models are either two-tone with violet gold elements or entirely in white gold with diamonds. They all feature a simple silver dial with Roman numerals at the six and 12 o’clock.

The version in rose and violet gold

On the other hand, the limited editions are exuberantly coloured. One is in rose gold with settings of diamonds, black spinel, coral, chrysoprase, and tsavorites. The other is in white gold model with diamonds and black obsidian. Both are matched with a diamond-paved dial.

Key Facts and Price

Cartier Cartier [Un]limited
Ref. CRWGMB0002 (yellow and violet gold)
Ref. CRWGMB0003 (rose and violet gold)
Ref. CRWJMB0004 (rose gold with diamonds, spinels, tsavorites, coral & chrysoprase)
Ref. CRWJMB0002 (white gold with diamonds)
Ref. CRWJMB0003 (white gold with diamonds, spinels and obsidian)

Diameter: 18.4 by 32.8 mm or 18.4 by 32.7 mm
Height: 8.1 mm
Material: 18k rose, yellow gold or rhodium-finish white gold
Water resistance: 30 m
Crystal: Sapphire

Movement: Quartz
Functions: Hours, minutes

Strap: Matching bracelet

Limited edition: Regular production, except for CRWJMB0003 (20 pieces) and CRWJMB0004 (30 pieces)
Availability: At Cartier boutiques and retailers beginning April 2023 for the limited editions, and June 2023 for the regular-production models

Price: 

Small, yellow and violet gold: €30,000; or 44,500 Singapore dollars
Small, rose and violet gold: €30,000; or 44,500 Singapore dollars

Small, white gold with diamonds: €45,000; or 67,000 Singapore dollars

Small, rose gold with diamonds, spinels, tsavorites, coral & chrysoprase: €100,000; or 149,000 Singapore dollars

Small, white gold with diamonds, spinels and obsidian: €105,000; or 159,000 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Cartier.com

Jacob & Co. already has a roulette complication in its catalogue inside the Astronomia Casino, a variant of its signature watch. Now the jeweller has condensed the concept into the Casino Tourbillon, which does away with the orbital carousel to focus on the roulette automaton, although it still conceals a flying tourbillon on the back.

Initial thoughts

The Casino Tourbillon is very much a Jacob & Co. watch with its exuberant style and complication – but it is slightly more restrained in design than the brand’s usual offerings. While it’s far from a low-key watch with its 44 mm diameter and over-16mm height, it is modest for a Jacob & Co. watch.

The roulette complication is interesting and smartly executed, though not exactly new. It is essentially a more sophisticated version of the Franck Muller Las Vegas, which instead relied on a simple execution made up of a fixed wheelhead and freely-spinning pointer hand.

Priced at US$280,000, the  Casino Tourbillon is pricey. Although the dial construction is complex, the roulette automaton is relatively straightforward, as is the flying tourbillon. It is, however, unique in today’s market. While casino-inspired complications were once popular (after the Franck Muller Las Vegas became a bestseller), they are uncommon today. So for the high roller who wants a novel casino-themed complication, this is probably it.

Game of chance

While Jacob & Co.’s watches are usually over the top, the Casino Tourbillon is relatively clean. The dial itself is simple, a disc of polished black onyx with applied hour markers that are rose gold, as are the hands.

Around the dial is the wheelhead, the disc of a roulette table that carries the numbers in coloured squares. When the roulette mechanism is activated – naturally this has to be done with the watch flat on a table due to gravity – the wheelhead spins freely before coming to a stop at a “random” number.

Although relatively simple in design, the dial of the Casino Tourbillon is complex and multi-layered, a necessity due to the free-rolling ceramic ball inside. The ball doesn’t actually sit on the dial, but in between two sapphire plates. The plates sit just below the dial and just above the wheelhead, allowing the ball to travel freely around the dial without interfering with any of the moving components.

The roulette automaton is activated by a pusher at eight o’clock. Though Jacob & Co. doesn’t reveal the nature of the automaton, it is presumably powered by a mechanism similar to that for a minute repeater: pushing the button winds up a tiny secondary mainspring that releases instantaneously, creating the energy needed to spin the wheelhead.

As for the “random” nature of the wheelhead’s rotation, it is actually a long sequence of non-consecutive numbers – which is the the result of specific gearing – resulting in the appearance of randomness.

Just like the Astronomia, the Casino Tourbillon has no conventional crown. Instead, winding and setting are each accomplished via crowns on the back that take the form of pull-out tabs.

The left tab is for winding, while the right is for setting the time

Also on the back is the flying tourbillon. While the tourbillon is conventional in mechanical terms, its carriage is unusual for having the brand name in relief squares filled with coloured lacquer to echo a roulette wheel.

Key facts and price

Jacob & Co. Casino Tourbillion
Ref. CA100.40.AA.AA.ABALA

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 16.3 mm
Material: 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 30 m

Movement: JCAM51
Functions: Hours, minutes, roulette mechanism activated by pusher, and one-minute flying tourbillon
Winding: Hand wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Alligator with folding clasp

Limited edition: 101 pieces
Availability: From Jacob & Co. boutiques and retailers
Price: US$280,000 before taxes

For more information, visit Jacobandco.com.