An annual award that seeks to recognise and support promising watchmakers, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is open for submissions until February 1, 2023.

The entry criteria is straightforward: watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from any country who have “independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction”, but professional qualifications or training are not necessary. The prize is a CHF20,000 grant meant to finance tools or a watchmaking project.

The contest will be judged by a panel including Francois-Paul Journe himself and Giulio Papi, who will select the winner based on originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make.

Candidates can submit their entries on Fpjourne.com from now until February 1, 2023.

Le Concours de Complexité is probably the smallest watch auction ever conducted by Phillips. Taking place online from January 13-20, the sale comprises just 11 watches. But all 11 are F.P. Journe watches, including important models like a Sonnerie Souveraine, Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium, and Centigraphe Anniversaire. So while the quantity is modest, the quality and value are high.

And the watches all come with impeccable provenance. The former owner is a prominent businessman from Southeast Asia who is active real estate development. He purchased most of them brand new and has clearly kept them in immaculate condition.

Le Concours de Complexité begins on January 13 and will run until January 20. Bidding and the catalogue can be accessed on Phillips.com.

Below we round up a trio of highlights from the sale.

The Sonnerie Souveraine

Lot 8001 – Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium

Synonymous with the independent watchmaker, the Resonance is correctly regarded as one of the most ingenious creations in contemporary watchmaking. Francois-Paul Journe was the first to implement the concept in a wristwatch, having been inspired by 18th century clocks operating on the principle of resonance.

This example is one of the Ruthenium series that was launched in 2001. The name comes from the fact that the dial and brass movement bridges are plated in ruthenium, giving them a dark grey finish. Notably, the Ruthenium editions are the last F.P. Journe models to utilise brass movement bridges, which were then replaced by bridges of 18k red gold.

This Résonance Ruthenium is numbered “2/99”. It has an estimate of HK$1.2-2.2 million, or US$150,000-280,000.

Lot 8005 – Sonnerie Souveraine with custom dial

The star of this auction and certainly the most valuable lot is the Sonnerie Souveraine. The Sonnerie Souveraine was the most complicated F.P. Journe wristwatch at the time of its launch in 2006 (and since superseded by the Astronomic), but this example goes one better with its black dial. Only about 50 of the Sonnerie Souveraine were made over its production run of 13 years, most of them with the standard grey dial.

Interestingly, while the black dial might imply this is a Black Label edition, it is not. Instead, it features a custom dial made expressly for the owner of the collection. Even more interesting is the fact that is is the watch was first delivered to the owner with a dark blue dial as indicated on the certificate. But according to Phillips, the owner subsequently had the blue dial replaced with this black dial.

The Sonnerie Souveraine Black Label has an estimate of HK$2.8-5 million, or US$360,000-650,000.

Lot 8007 – Chronomètre à Résonance “RQ”

Made to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Resonance, the Resonance “RQ” is the ultimate evolution of the model in technical terms. As we detailed in our introductory story, the new calibre relies on a single, large barrel driving twin gear trains, each having its own remontoir d’egalite constant-force mechanism.

This example has a platinum case and pink gold dial, one of the more uncommon combinations for the model. The Chronomètre à Résonance “20th anniversary” has an estimate of HK$1.2-2.2 million, or US$150,000-280,000.

Preview and auction details

All lots are available for preview by appointment only.

Auction
Online bidding opens on January 13 at 7:00 pm, and closes on January 20 at 7:00 pm

All times and dates are local to Hong Kong (GMT+8).

For the full catalogue, as well as viewing appointments and online bidding, visit phillips.com.

Sotheby’s autumn sale season takes place in early October, led by Important Watches I, a live auction in Hong Kong. The 249-lot sale is diverse but especially impressive in three categories, namely avant-garde complications, unorthodox sports watches, as well as independent watchmaking.

We have round a magnificent seven of the “indies”, which naturally includes a Philippe Dufour Simplicity – 34 mm and guilloche dial – along with several limited-edition watches from F.P. Journe, now perhaps the establishment independent brand, and also a few more timepieces that are arguably underrated and potentially value-buys.

Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here.

Lot 2178: Philippe Dufour Simplicity 34 mm

A watchmaker famed for his unmatched focus on movement decoration, Philippe Dufour has only produced a handful of models across a five-decade career, but is often regarded as one of the greats thanks to his artisanal approach to classic Vallee de Joux watchmaking.

While he’s made more complex watches, he is perhaps best known for the Simplicity, a fuss-free, time-only watch that does only one thing but does it well: impeccable movement finishing.

Going under hammer at Sotheby’s is a classic example of the Simplicity, one that’s almost identical to the one Mr Dufour himself wears. Well suited to purists, this example is 34 mm, white gold, and fitted with a guilloche dial featuring Arabic numerals at the quarters.

Though the Simplicity is more common in gold is than platinum, the present example stands out for its 34 mm case. The compact size is straight out of mid-20th century horology and is actually more scarce, as compared to the 37 mm that was made to cater to modern tastes.

Numbered “167” on the movement, the present example was delivered in 2011, making it one of the last few of the original run of 200 watches. It retains the original certificate and wood box. The estimate is HK$3.5-5.0 million, or about US$445,900-636,900.

Full lot details here.

Lot 2146: F.P. Journe Octa Jour et Nuit Ruthenium

One of the earliest limited editions released by F.P. Journe, the Ruthenium collection was a five-model series that bid farewell to the brass-movement era as the brand transitioned to solid-gold movements. The Ruthenium editions also all had 40 mm cases, instead of the standard 38 mm of the period, making them amongst the first 40 mm F.P. Journe watches.

Amongst the lesser-known models in the series is the Jour et Nuit Ruthenium. Based on the Octa Reserve de Marche, the Jour et Nuit retains the same design and functions except for the addition of a blue day-and-night disc with at seven o’clock that’s a perfect match for the dark grey dial.

Notably, the Jour et Nuit – French for “day and night” was the only all-new creation in the Ruthenium series, as opposed to being a variant of a standard model. It was truly one-off edition with neither preceding nor subsequent iterations.

Despite the Ruthenium label, the case is made of platinum, while the dial and movement are plated in ruthenium, resulting in the dark-grey finish makes these watches distinct from the common gold or silver dials. The result is a watch that is different and stylish but still very much quintessential F.P. Journe.

Numbered “23/99” and complete with box and papers, the present example sold at Sotheby’s almost exactly a year ago for almost US$225,000 including gees. Now it has an estimate of HK$700,000-950,000, or about US$89,200-121,000.

Full lot details here.

Lot 2139: F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain Black Label

Black Label refers to a limited-production watches featuring black dials and white sub-dials that are available only at F.P. Journe Boutiques. This treatment can be applied to any current model, including the iconic Tourbillon and Resonance, but quantities are limited to a maximum of two Black Label pieces per model annually at each store. And the watches can only be sold only to existing owners of F.P. Journe watches. Despite not being a limited edition, Black Label is certainly uncommon.

The present example is the brand’s flagship chronograph in Black Label livery. Though the palette is stark, it is undeniably attractive. Compared to other Black Label models that are largely monochromatic, the Centigraphe stands out with its red accents that enhance the sporty nature of the watch.

The dial has extra-large registers and red accents, while the movement is capable of measuring up to 1/100th of a second, thanks to the lightning seconds hand at 10 o’clock that makes 60 revolutions per minute.

Striking in black, silver, and a touch of red

While the design is appealing for the symmetrical layout, the Centigraphe is more notable for the innovative movement construction. It utilises a conventional, 3 Hz balance wheel and intermediate gears that allow for measurement of 1/100th of a second, while preserving the elegantly thin profile that’s a signature of the brand.

The barrel is at the centre with the gear train wrapped around it

Accompanied by the original box and papers, the Black Label Centigraphe Souverain has an estimate of HK$650,000-1.3 million, or about US$82,800-165,600.

Full lot details here.

Lot 2163: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Ruthenium

Distinguished by the aperture at six o’clock revealing the remontoir cock, the first-generation F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite needs little introduction, but the model’s many variations might be difficult to keep up with, especially since the changes between them are mostly subtle.

But one iteration stands out easily, the Tourbillon Souverain Ruthenium, thanks to its dark-grey dial that’s immediately different from the classic dials in yellow, white, or rose gold. Not only the dial is coated in ruthenium, the brass movement has also been given the same treatment, again setting it apart from the earlier rhodium-plated brass movements as well as the later solid-gold movements.

Aside from the unusual dial and movement colour, the Ruthenium edition marks several firsts and lasts for the Tourbillon Souverain. It was the brand’s first tourbillon with a 40 mm case, and the only 40 mm tourbillon with a brass movement, since the Ruthenium edition was conceived to mark the end of the production for brass movements.

Numbered “28/99”, the Tourbillon Souverain Ruthenium is complete with the original box and papers, as well as accessories such as a folding clasp and loupe.

Like the Ruthenium Jour et Nui above, this was sold at Sotheby’s fall auction last year for US$513,600, and now it has an estimate of HK$2.8-4.0 million, or US$356,700-509,600.

Full lot details here.

Lot 2318: Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon pièce unique with cloisonne dial

While Ulysse Nardin is not a small-scale independent watchmaker like Dufour or Journe, the brand is no longer owned by a luxury conglomerate, having been bought out by its management. That makes it something of a rarity in Swiss watchmaking – an independent, mid-sized brand.

Despite its small scale, Ulysse Nardin boasts an impressive degree of in-house manufacturing, as demonstrated this Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon. It’s powered by an in-house movement equipped with a tourbillon and remontoir, while the cloisonné enamel dial is made by Ulysse Nardin’s subsidiary Donze. (And it happens to be extremely good value, by far the best of the seven watches featured here in fact, with a low estimate of only US$38,000.)

The Anchor Tourbillon is an impressive watch in terms of mechanics. In fact, it’s is one of the most innovative constant-force tourbillons of the modern era, thanks to the unique Anchor Escapement contained within the tourbillon.

Made entirely of silicon, the Anchor Escapement consists of a pallet lever with built-in springs that provide elasticity, so that its arms deliver the same amount of force to the balance regardless of the energy supplied by the mainspring. The result is a smartly simple and high-tech constant-force mechanism.

Note the power reserve indicator that’s smartly integrated around the tourbillon aperture

The present example also stands out for being a unique piece that was commissioned by the owner. Unlike the standard model that features single-colour enamel dials, this watch has a cloisonné enamel dial depicting a bald eagle with wings spread soaring over a mountain range.

Even though the theme seems American, the dial has a Chinese character discreetly hidden on the mountain at nine o’clock – most likely the surname of the collector who commissioned the watch.

The back is engraved “LIMITED EDIITON” while the movement bears “UNIQUE”

Completed around 2018, this one-off Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon has an estimate of HK$300,000-500,000, or about US$38,200-63,700.

Full lot details here.

Lot 2155: F.P. Journe Octa Perpétuelle Anniversaire Tokyo

The Octa Perpétuelle Anniversaire Tokyo was introduced in 2009 for the fifth anniversary of the Tokyo boutique, the brand’s first. Like the Octa Jour et Nuit Ruthenium above, it was an all-new model made as a limited edition and never reproduced since. While limited-edition Journe watches come around often, a new reference containing a new movement conceived for a specific run is something else altogether.

Interestingly, the Octa Perpétuelle was the brand’s first-ever perpetual calendar, and perhaps the most elegant with tiny windows and a slim, long hand for the date. With the unique layout, it is clear that the Perpétuelle was based on the Octa annual calendar, but neither of the two were especially legible.

As a result, the brand’s subsequent perpetual calendar models have an entirely different movement and a new dial designed expressly for legibility.

Like other Tokyo Boutique editions, the Octa Perpétuelle has a titanium case with its moving parts such as the crown and pusher in 18k rose gold. And the the dial is finished in grey ruthenium matched with rose gold accents in the hands and print. A handsome look that’s neither overly classical nor sporty, the grey-and-rose-gold combination remains unique for the brand, being found only in commemorative boutique editions.

Numbered “12/99”, the Octa Perpétuelle Anniversaire Tokyo was produced in 2010 and subsequently sold once again in 2018 by F.P. Journe’s Patrimonie service that specialises in certified pre-owned watches. It has an estimate of HK$600,000-800,000, or about US$76,400-101,900.

Full lot details here.

Lot 2295: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar

Though it might not look like one with its spartan dial, this Streamliner is a perpetual calendar. At first glance it might appear to be a minimalist time-and-date wristwatch, but upon a closer examination it reveals smartly camouflaged indicators for the month and leap year.

The Streamliner Perpetual Calendar ingeniously hides the less important indications, so that the calendar doesn’t get in the way of time telling or the overall clean design. That’s thanks to the smart movement within, which was originally conceived by Andreas Strehler and debuted in 2005 in the resurrected brand’s first model. As a truly unique perpetual calendar, the complication immediately put Moser on the map.

The Streamliner perpetual is minimalist in typical Moser style, without even a logo on the dial. Though it’s an integrated-bracelet sports watch – with a case water resistant to 120 m – the Streamliner is low-key and elegant, which distinguishes it from most of its peers.

Complete with box and papers, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar has an estimate of HK$600,000-800,000, or about US$76,400-101,900. The low estimate is slightly above the retail price, reflecting the demand for such sports watches today.

Full lot details here.

Preview and auction details

All lots will be on show during the preview in Hong Kong during the run-up to the auction. Both the preview exhibition and sale will happen at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (New Wing).

Preview
October 2-4

Auction
October 5, 10:00 am

For the full catalogue, as well as viewing appointments and online bidding, visit sotheby’s.com.

This was brought to you in collaboration with Sotheby’s.

François-Paul Journe is perhaps the most successful living independent watchmaker – so successful that some of his watches have entered the same “hype” territory occupied by watches like the Nautilus and Royal Oak – which might mean that casting about for an overlooked F.P. Journe watch is a fool’s errand.

But the brand does have a few hidden gems in amongst its past offerings, with the Zodiaque being one such watch. And Phillips’ upcoming Geneva sale has a one-off version that I had never seen in person until recently, the Zodiaque “Children Action” – which will be sold to benefit the titular children’s charity.

The original Zodiaque. Image – Phillips

The original Zodiaque debuted in 2004, just five years after the brand was founded, in a limited edition of 150 pieces. Despite its distinctive aesthetic and esoteric complication, the Zodiaque never enjoyed the success of its peers at the time, perhaps because of that very complication, which indicates the signs of zodiac with an annual calendar ring.

Remember that in the years after the brand’s founding in 1999, F.P. Journe was merely a startup founded by a talented watchmaker with a peculiar personality; his watches weren’t exactly flying off the shelves. Yet Mr Journe still created this one-off watch for a good cause, which eventually became a yearly affair with the brand contributing unique watches to several charities, including subsequent timepieces for Children Action and of course the record-setting timepieces made for Only Watch.

The Zodiaque “Children Action”

The Zodiaque piece unique is a mythical creation that was long known but never before seen in public until now because it has remained with the same owner who acquired the night it was first sold. It is an entirely unique version of the Zodiaque made in 2005 for Children Action, a Geneva charity founded by Bernard Sabrier, a prominent Swiss financier.

The watch was sold at a live auction that took place during the charity’s annual gala dinner that year and it has not changed hands since. In other words, the winner of this watch at the upcoming auction will only be its second owner in 17 years – a notable feat considering the number of rare F.P. Journe watches bought and sold on the secondary market in the last three years.

And thanks to the generosity of the original owner, whatever the new owner bids for this watch will go entirely to Children Action, along with the buyer’s premium that Phillips has committed to donate.

A different F.P. Journe

Although F.P. Journe can rightly be regarded as a maker of unusual watches, the Octa Zodiaque itself manages to be even more unusual.

For starters, it was the first F.P. Journe wristwatch with central hands, representing the brand’s inaugural attempt to move away from the quintessential off-centred display that began with the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and Resonance. This layout was a matter of necessity, since the dial has to accommodate the wide zodiac and calendar rings.

Because the Zodiaque debuted during the transitional period when brand was just starting with 40 mm cases while discontinuing brass movements, the Octa Zodiaque is one of the few models to have both a 40 mm case and a brass movement, an uncommon combination for F.P. Journe watches.

Finally, the Zodiaque was the first-ever limited edition from F.P. Journe (leaving aside the Souscription watches). The example that’s going under the hammer is more than that of course.

Although F.P. Journe has long made customised watches for clients, typically with special-order dials, the brand very, very rarely marks such watches as “Piece Unique”. This Zodiaque bears this engraving on the back where the serial number would ordinarily be. And it is accompanied by a letter signed by Mr Journe attesting to its unique nature. (Unfortunately the letter is the only document that accompanies the watch as the owner misplaced the original box and papers.)

This Zodiaque is unique in most respects, being different from the limited edition in both case material and dial colour. In fact, it looks almost like an entirely different watch, despite being functionally identical.

While the limited edition had a platinum case and grey dial, this Zodiaque has a pink gold with a matching, pink gold dial. The result is striking in its bright, warm colours, instantly setting it apart from the coolly restrained limited edition.

Like many of F.P. Journe’s Octa watches, the Zodiaque has both an oversized date display and power reserve indicator. But its key complication are the ring on the periphery of the dial that indicates both the sign of the zodiac along with the approximate date and month – both are read via the pointer at 12 o’clock. Notably, all the months are rendered in latin to match the names of the zodiac signs, which are derived from the same language.

The familiar date and power reserve

The dial is done in the rose gold finish that was a standard option for most of F.P. Journe’s watches at the time – the other was the medium grey that is perhaps the brand’s signature colour – but here the colour is especially striking, in part due to the unbroken expanse of dial in the centre.

Mechanically, the Zodiaque “Children Action” is identical to the standard model. Inside is the cal. 1300 that has underpinned all of F.P. Journe’s Octa models for some two decades. Slim but boasting a five-day power reserve, the cal. 1300 has served as a base for a diversity of complications, ranging from a chronograph to the five-finger automaton display of the FFC.

Amongst the movement’s most distinctive visual features are the slightly off-centre rotor and the four-spoked free-sprung balance wheel. These elements have been retained in the latest generation of the movement, which has been substantially upgraded but retains largely the same layout, albeit with its bridges and base plate now in solid red gold.

Like all early F.P. Journe movements, this has rhodium-plated brass plates

The solid-gold rotor decorated with fine engine turning

In an encore of the Children Action dinner in 2005, the owner of the watch has pledged to donate all proceeds from the sale of this watch to Children Action. Phillips, in turn, will donate the buyer’s premium to the charity as well.

The Octa Zodiaque “Piece Unique” has an estimate of CHF150,000-300,000, or about US$159,000-319,000. Full lot details here.

One of the most unusual amongst F.P. Journe’s offerings, the Vagabondage I was the first of a trio that combined a tortue case with an unconventional time display, along with dials that feature no branding at all.

Launched in 2004 and long gone from the brand’s catalogue, the Vagabondage I now makes a return with a new case, dial, and movement – all of which are improved over the original.

Initial thoughts

The original Vagabondage I was interesting because of its wandering, jumping hour display, along with the central balance wheel visible on the dial. Eighteen years later the new Vagabondage I is interesting for the same reason, because it is essentially the same watch.

While the new Vagabondage I has been updated in several ways, ranging from a larger case to a new movement, it retains the familiar look. That also means it looks like a watch from the early 2000s with a slightly dated air compared to most wandering hours on the market today.

But that’s exactly what makes it cool. It is an old idea but one that has been improved in just the right ways. Most important amongst them is the case, which wider and longer than the original, giving it dimensions almost identical to the Vagabondage II and III. It still remains elegant and wearable, but the new case size is more appealing than that of the original, which is a little too small.

Inching forward

Fans of the brand will be familiar with the story of the Vagabondage, but here’s a quick recap: it start with a one-off wandering hours wristwatch in a round case that Francois-Paul Journe made for a French collector, which eventually led to establishment brand seeking something similar, except in a tortue case, though the project eventually fell through.

Yet Mr Journe went ahead to complete three watches in the tortue case, one in each colour of gold. They are created and sold in 2004 at Antiquorum’s 30th anniversary auction. And then in 2006 the brand made the Vagabondage I as a limited edition of 69 pieces in platinum.

After almost two decades later, the Vagabondage I makes a return, having been refined. The new model has a more prominent hour track in a darker colour, and also the brushed balance bridge as opposed to the polished bridge in the original.

The difference in the design is most obvious when the watch in the hand, as it is immediately obvious the case is larger. Enlarged from from 34 mm by 42 mm to 37.5 mm by 42 mm – almost exactly the same as the Vagabondage II and III – the new size feels just right.

Inside the case is the cal. 1504.02, which is evolved from the cal. 1504 in the original. According to F.P. Journe, the original movement was a prototype of sorts, so it was not the ideal envisioned by Mr Journe.Now it has been transformed into a “better, more reliable caliber”.

The two movements are similar in their architecture, but the new calibre has a barrel bridge that cover the ratchet wheels of the twin barrels. The winding click spring now sits on the bridge, adding a bit of elegance with its curved outline, echoing the profile of the bridges.

Key facts and price

F.P. Journe Vagabondage I Gold

Diameter: 45.2 mm by 37.5 mm
Height: 7.6 mm
Material: 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 1504.2
Functions: Wandering hours and minute
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Black alligator

Limited edition: 68 pieces

Availability: On application; owners of the Vagabondage II and III in rose gold with matching serial numbers will be given priority
Price: Unavailable at press time

For more, visit Fpjourne.com.

F.P. Journe’s second-generation Tourbillon Souverain, the” Tourbillon Nouveau” or “TN”, was the longest-lived iteration of his first wristwatch model. Produced for 15 years from 2003 to 2018, the TN was replaced in 2019 by the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical (“TV” for short), which was launched to mark the 20th anniversary of Francois-Paul Journe’s first tourbillon wristwatch.

Though the first-generation Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and second-generation TN were fundamentally identical – both combined the tourbillon with a constant force mechanism – the TN brought with it several improvements. Most notably, the TN marked F.P. Journe’s transition from brass to 18k red gold for its movement plates and bridges – an impressive breakthrough at the time.

The Tourbillon Souverain Regency with a hand-engraved dial

The development of the TN along with its various iterations have been detailed in The Tourbillon Nouveau Collector’s Guide by Shawn Mehta, founder of independent watchmaking merchant Watch4moi.

Relying on information from F.P. Journe itself, Mr Mehta explains the differences between the first- and second-generation tourbillons before moving on to production numbers and variants.

He estimates only 750-850 examples of the TN were produced over its 15-year production run, most of them in the standard catalogue variations. But in his opinion, the rarest standard configuration is likely the version with both the dial and case in rose gold.

The Hour Glass edition with an aventurine mineral stone dial

Arguably more intriguing are the many limited or unique editions of the TN. Mr Mehta offers important insights into these rare birds, which include the titanium Tokyo Anniversary, the ruthenium-dial Pisa edition, and the five-piece The Hour Glass edition with an aventurine stone dial.

Mr Mehta delves into the TN with an impressively degree of detail. His article also charts the change in case numbering – which did away with the year of production sometime in 2005 – as well as the evolution in the dial construction due to the fragile nature of the special materials favoured for limited editions.

Insightful and comprehensive, the TN guide is a must-read for Journe enthusiasts. It can be found on Watch4moi.com.

Open to watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from anywhere in the world, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is an annual affair that seeks to identify the most promising watchmakers of the future. Interestingly, any candidate who has “must have independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction” can participate, whether or not he or she has formal training.

A candidate can enter any type of timepiece – last year’s winner was 29-year old Mario Scarpatetti, whose entry was a longcase clock with a patented secular perpetual calendar mechanism of his own invention.

The Kalendar Perpeten clock made by last year’s winner, Mario Scarpatetti

Mr Scarpatetti won a CHF20,000 grant sponsored by Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, which is once again the prize for the YTC 2022. The winner will the selected by a jury of industry notables that include Francois-Paul Journe himself, Philippe Dufour, and Giulio Papi, who will make their choice according to four criteria: originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make.

Candidates can submit their entries on fpjourne.com.

A short-lived model in production for just a few years – it was replaced by the Centigraphe in 2008 – the Octa Chronographe was nevertheless one of F.P. Journe’s most intriguing offerings in technical terms.

While based on the standard cal. 1300 found in the simpler Octa models, the chronograph movement utilised a stopwatch mechanism integrated into the base plate under the dial. In other words, the chronograph was integrated but located where a modular setup would typically be.

As a result the Chronographe remained the same height as less complex Octa models (though that thinness would cause a variety of problems with the functionality, especially with the date).

Its technical details – which vary across generations – are just one aspect of the watch detailed in A Collector’s Guide for the Octa Chronographe by F. P. Journe by Shawn Mehta, founder of independent watchmaking merchant Watch4Moi.

(At the same time it’s worth revisiting the guide to the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite that I wrote in 2016, making it one of the first-ever Journe “guides”.)

Octa Chronographe no. 001 that sold at Phillips in November last year

Though the first in numerical sequence, it was not actually the first example produced as indicated by its details

Unlike many recent “guides” that rely on plagiarisation or secondary sources, Mr Mehta’s article cite facts and figures from F.P. Journe itself. For instance, he tells us that only 35 examples of the Octa Chronographe with a 38 mm platinum case, white gold dial, and brass movement were made. And the total number of Octa Chronographe made over the entire run is just 313 watches.

Mr Mehta also delves into the limited-edition dial variants, including the mother-of-pearl examples and Swiss Fine Timing edition in black and red.

In addition, the guide covers not just the usual production numbers and dial styles, but also details like the position of “45” on the minute register and the style of hands for the sub-dials.

A must-read for anyone with an interest in the Octa Chronographe, and even anyone keen on F.P. Journe, the guide can be found on Watch4moi.com.

A newcomer to the world of watch auctions, Loupe This was founded by a pair of industry veterans and operates in a distinctly 21st century manner: sales are conducted entirely online, with about ten watches on the block at any one time.

The offerings on Loupe This are diverse. In December 2021 it sold an example of our Habring2 Erwin “Star” for US$15,400 including fees, while the latest to go under the hammer are two interesting, long-discontinued watches from notable watchmakers based in Geneva – but otherwise radically different.

One is the a Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019 – in pristine, “new old stock” condition – and the other, an F.P. Journe Octa Chronographe 38 mm.

Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019

Produced from 1960 to 1988, the ref. 1019 was the longest-running reference of the Milgauss, the brand’s famous magnetism-resistant watch conceived for engineers and nuclear scientists.

Despite the lengthy production run, the ref. 1019 is relatively rare because the model wasn’t produced in sizeable numbers for the simple reason that it didn’t sell well. In fact, Rolex discontinued the Milgauss altogether in 1988, before reviving it some two decades later.

While the rarity certainly boosts its appeal, the ref. 1019 is attractive and unusual for being one of the most fuss-free Rolex “Professional” sports watch. The ref. 1019 is also the simplest version of the Milgauss, doing without the rotating bezel or “lightning” seconds hand found on earlier models.

It has a no-nonsense, functional dial that’s made interesting with red accents in the form of the model name as well as the tip of the second hand.

And that functional elegance is continued in the modest, 38 mm case that’s arguably perfectly sized for a no-frills sports watch. Within the case is the soft-iron cage that gives the Milgauss resistance to magnetism of up to a thousand Gauss – or mille Gauss in French.

The case has the charming details found only in vintage Rolex watches, such as the slim, elongated case middle with polished bevels along its upper edges that remain crisp despite its age

Notably, the present example is a “full set” in a “new old stock” condition – it is essentially in the same state as it would have been when purchased brand new in the 1980s, save for some ageing of the tritium on the dial and hands.

The “NOS” ref. 1019 has an estimate of  US$30,000-50,000. The auction runs until 12:00 pm GMT-5 (New York) on February 2, or 1:00 am GMT+8 (Singapore) on February 3, on Loupethis.com.

F.P. Journe Octa Chronographe 38 mm

While the Milgauss was in production for almost three decades, the F.P. Journe Octa Chronographe was a short-lived model that was in the catalogue only from 2004 to 2008.

Notable for being a flyback chronograph with a big date – an unusual combination replicated by few others, Lange being a notable exception – the Octa Chronographe is also self-winding, like all Octa watches. Yet it manages to squeeze all that into a thin case that’s just 10.6 mm tall – a feat of slim engineering that is very much typical of Francois-Paul Journe’s first two decades of work.

The Octa Chronographe was later replaced by the Centigraphe Souverain, which was equally thin but more elaborated, sporting a far more complicated dial along with a pseudo fraction-of-a-second chronograph.

But the simple, off-centred display on Octa Chronographe is quintessential F.P. Journe, giving the watch an air of quirky elegance that disguises the complexity of the movement within.

Being a later example, the movement is in red gold instead of brass

A rare combination of a 38 mm case and red gold movement, the present example in platinum has a white gold dial. It is accompanied by the original box and papers, and estimated at US$60,000-80,000.

The auction is live until 12:05 pm GMT-5 (New York) on February 4, or 1:05 am GMT+8 (Singapore) on February 3, on Loupethis.com.

Phillips sold US$74.5 million of watches during its recent Geneva auctions, the besting the two-decade old record set by Antiquorum in 2002 for the biggest watch auction ever. Now it the focus shifts to Hong Kong for the fall watch sale in the city.

Amongst the top lots in Geneva were important creations by independent watchmakers, including the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch that sold for US$5.2 million, as well as an F.P. Journe Resonance Souscription that achieved US$4.3 million (fees included).

Fortunately there are fine examples of the genre for far less money at the upcoming Hong Kong auction. We round up some of the most notable – and possibly overlooked – in the sale, including the little-known F.P. Journe Octa “France-China”, the rarely-seen Haldimann H11, and a pair of quirky watches by Vianney Halter (but designed by Pascal Pages).

The movement of the H11

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com.

Lot 841: Harry Winston Opus 3 by Vianney Halter

Perhaps the most complicated watch ever conceived by Vianney Halter is the Opus 3, which was originally a collaborative effort between the watchmaker and American jeweller Harry Winston.

Entirely digital in its time display, the Opus 3 has no hands, but instead six apertures on its face. The date occupies the two windows in the centre, with the left column of windows showing the hours and right containing the minutes.

At a glance there’s seems to be no seconds, but it incorporates a jumping countdown seconds that kicks in only during the last four seconds of a minute, with discs showing “56” to “59” sliding out to cover the first digit of the hours in the top-left window.

Immensely complex despite the simple display, the Opus 3 was overly ambitious and consequently took over a decade to realise. Mr Halter eventually departed the project, leaving it to others to execute, and it was finally completed by Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi (APRP), the complications workshop owned by the maker of Royal Oak. The complexity of the movement means that despite having been perfected by APRP, the digital display remains finicky, being more like a delicate grand complication rather than the time-only watch that it is.

The movement in the serial-production Opus 3 looked almost nothing like the original prototype conceived by Mr Halter

But the decade-long wait was certainly worth it, as the result is impressive and important. It remains the world’s only mechanical watch that has an entirely digital display of hours, minutes, and seconds.

The watch is set with both pushers and a lateral crown

Consigned by the original owner, this example is in pristine condition, and appears to have barely been worn, if at all. The watch is accompanied by its original booklets as well as the gigantic wood box shaped like the Opus 3 watch case.

The Opus 3 in rose gold has an estimate of HK$390,000-600,000, or about US$50,000-76,900. Full lot details here.

Lot 855: Sarpaneva Watches S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin

A combination of simple quality and whimsical design, the S.U.F. Moomin is a unique value proposition among Stepan Sarpaneva’s watches, which are either complicated and pricey category or affordable and basic.

The Sarpaneva x Moomin was based on the entry-level S.U.F. 180, the brand’s no-frills, military-inspired watch, but reimagined to mark the 75th anniversary of Moomin, the comic strip about fictional trolls penned by Finnish author Tove Jansson that has gained a large international audience.

The highlight of the Sarpaneva x Moomin is the dial, which is a three-layer affair cut and etched with laser and then refined by hand. The bottommost layer is a background of reeds finished with various colours of “lume” applied by hand, forming a Technicolor backdrop at night. On top of the lumed fauna is a disc that’s etched with the titular troll lying on the riverbank.

The case back bears Sarpaneva’s familiar moon emblem

The prototype of the model sold for about US$40,000 at Phillips’ Hong Kong auction in November 2020, with all proceeds going to charity. In comparison, the present example has an estimate of HK$32,000-64,000, or about US$4,100-8,200, which is comparable to the original retail price. Scoring it for the original retail price will probably be tough given that the 75-piece run sold out within a day. Full lot details here.

Lot 863: F.P. Journe Octa Automatique Lune “France-China”

With the F.P. Journe’s best-known watches like the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and Resonance now achieving astronomical prices at auction, the brand’s lesser known models are now much better value, especially esoteric limited editions like this, the Octa Automatique Lune “France-China”, a 10-piece limited edition made in 2014 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Sino-French diplomatic ties.

The standard Octa calibre in the “France-China” edition

Aesthetically the special edition is rather restrained, but different enough to makes it special.  For one, the dark blue dial is unusual among the brand’s line up and only found on special or limited editions.

More distinctive is the tiny emblem beside the brand’s logo at three o’clock, that’s made up of the name of both countries in their respective languages, along with a red square resembling a traditional Chinese seal that reads 50周年, or “50th anniversary” in Chinese.

This watches comes straight from the original owner. and includes all its original packaging and accessories. It has an estimate of HK$235,000-390,000, or around US$30,100-50,000. Full lot details here.

Lot 881: Roger Dubuis Hommage Condottieri

One of the early creations by Roger Dubuis, the Condottieri is a simple watch in formal dress. Entirely classical in style, it has a slim, white gold case and white enamel dial bearing Roman numerals and blued-steel, leaf-shaped hands.

Observatory chronometer- and Geneva Seal-certified, the movement within actually started life as a no-frills Cyma cal. 565/567, a mid-range movement made in the 1940s for smaller pocket watches. But Roger Dubuis remade much of the calibre, including bestowing upon it a swan’s neck regulator index.

The movement is visible beneath the sapphire back etched with the “RD” emblem

Accompanied by its box, the Condottieri has an estimate of HK$150,000-300,000, or about $19,200-38,500. More details here.

Lot 886: Haldimann H11 Central Balance Pure

Beat Haldimann is an independent watchmaker whose style is pure in form and function. Mr Haldimann, along with his small team, makes his watches – including the case, dial, movements, and hands – without any automated equipment, which is why only a handful of watches leave his manufacture each year. While he is best known for his H1 central flying tourbillon, his entry-level model is the H11, a time-only watch that retains his signature design.

Despite Haldimann’s most affordable model, the H11 is still special. Unveiled in 2013, the H11 is built upon the same concept as his flagship tourbillon, featuring its oscillator right in the centre, here a balance wheel on the back that’s co-axial with the hours and minutes hands on the front.

The frosting of the bridges and cock is achieved via hand-applying a silver paste followed by brushing

The H11 is simple but intriguing – the style is unquestionably classical, but with subtle twist that clearly mark it out as a Haldimann creation.

The case with its concave flanks as well as the crown are made with traditional tools

Consigned by the original owner, the present example is almost new, having been delivered just this year. It has an estimate of HK$280,000-600,000, or about US$35,900-76,900. Full lot details here.

Lot 887: Goldpfeil GPVH by Vianney Halter 

Vianney Halter is the master of turning imagination into reality – his most famous works, the Antiqua and Classic, were originally conceived by American designer Jeff Barnes, but it was Mr Halter who brought them to life in a vivid and striking manner.

Besides Harry Winston, Mr Halter also collaborated with now-defunct German leather goods maker Goldpfeil, resulting in the camera-inspired GPVH. Part of the Seven Masters project that saw Goldpfeil commission noted independent watchmakers to create unique timepieces, the GPVH by Mr Halter was the complex and impressive of the project’s watches.

The GPVH was modelled upon a vintage camera, explaining the shape of the case and crown, as well as the textured finish on the front that evokes the leather wrapping of an old rangefinder.

And the GPVH not just aesthetically novel, because its mechanics are notable too. Powered by a base Lemania calibre heavily modified by Mr Halter, the GPVH sports a jump hour and moon-phase that’s slightly more accurate than the usual a-day-in-122-years, being off by a day after 139 years.

Showing minor signs of wear, this has an estimate of HK$100,000-200,000, or about US$12,800-25,600. Full lot details here.

Lot 889: Alain Silberstein Tourbillon Wild Safari Alligator

Like the GPVH, the Alain Silberstein Tourbillon D’Art Volant is attractive because it’s quirky and colourful. In the heyday of Alain Silberstein, from the 1990s to early 2000s, his bold designs were truly original, making him a star.

Comprising tri-colour, geometrical shapes inspired by Bauhaus, Mr Silberstein’s signature style is familiar, but he also experimented with case colours and materials. This tourbillon is one such watch, with its steel case coated to achieve a bronze finish and then wrapped in brown alligator leather, hence the “Wild Safari” moniker.

And the safari theme is continued on the dial, which has a cloisonné lacquered dial. The motif is formed with tiny gold wires that form enclosures that are then filled with lacquer and finally fired in an oven.

Like most Silberstein tourbillons of the period, this is powered by the hand-wind ASC 1.3 made by Swiss Time Technologies (STT), a company was founded to produce affordable tourbillon movements but was later acquired by Bovet.

In “new old stock” condition despite being over a decade old, this tourbillon is accompanied by accessories like a strap tool and screwdriver, along with a mismatched certificate off by six numbers, which was no doubt a mistake on the part of the retailer that sold this. It has an estimate of HK$150,000-250,000, or about US$19,200-32,100. Full lot details here.

Lot 943: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Holland & Holland

F.P. Journe’s entry-level model is the Chronometre Souverain. Several variants of the watch exist, but perhaps the most unusual is the Chronomètre Holland & Holland created in collaboration with the eponymous British gunmaker.

The same movement as the standard model

The watch immediately stands out with its brown dial that has a swirly, organic pattern. The dial motif is actually a result of the material – it’s fabricated from the Damascus steel obtained from barrels taken from 19th century Holland & Holland rifles.

The barrels were cut open, flattened and then cut into dial blanks. The vivid brown was achieved via heat treatment, followed by acid etching that emphasised the inherent grain of Damascus steel.

Because the dial is intricate and expressive, the markings were kept to a minimum. The watch does away with the small seconds and power-reserve indicator that are found on the standard Chronometre Souverain.

And to make it even more special, the case is made of steel, a metal rarely found in the brand’s line up.

Complete with box and papers, the present example was consigned by the original owner, and has an estimate of HK$250,000-450,000, or equivalent to US$35,900-76,900. That’s eminently affordable but a similar watch just sold for over US$200,000 at Phillips’ recent Geneva auction, which would indicate that this will likely exceed the high estimate. Full lot details here.

Lot 1078: Lang & Heyne Friedrich III No. 25

Last but not least is the Lang & Heyne Friedrich III, an early example of the brand’s work made while its cofounder was still with the company. Numbered “25”, this watch has a steel case and black dial with simple spade hands, a clean aesthetic that contrasts with the fancier style that’s more common for the brand.

Named after a Saxon king, the Friedrich III a well-made German watch that’s old-school in terms of construction and quality. Its movement is modelled on vintage German pocket watches and thoroughly finished. All parts are finely decorated, including with hand engraving on the balance cock and solarisation on the winding wheels.

The present example was made in 2015, shortly after the Friedrich III was unveiled in 2013, making it one of the earliest examples. That means it was produced while cofounder Marco Lang was still with the company (he has since left to set up his eponymous brand).

The Friedrich III includes its original box, as well as duplicate certificate and rating report. It has an estimate of HK$55,000-110,000, or about US$7,100-14,100, making it an affordable value proposition. Full lot details here.

Preview and Auction

The preview exhibition is open daily from November 23-25 at the JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong. The auction takes place over two days at the same location:

November 25 at 6:00 pm
November 26 at 12:00 pm and 4:30 pm

JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong
88 Queensway
Admiralty
Hong Kong, China

For the full catalogue, as well as registration and online bidding, visit Phillips.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Phillips.