Having built a reputation with original timepieces characterised by Neo-Gothic flair, Stepan Sarpaneva celebrates his 20th year in watchmaking with a pair in typical Sarpaneva style – Stardust and Stardust “Nostromo”. Limited to twenty pieces each, the duo embody Sarpaneva’s trademark aesthetic styling in their hand-finished, open-worked dials and Korona case. 

Initial thoughts

I have long admired Sarpaneva for being different. The man has a unique and often quirky vision of watchmaking that is evident in his timepieces, which are also finished well in terms of cases and dials. While Sarpaneva has not done much in terms of movements, his original approach is very much independent watchmaking.

While different from its past offerings, both Stardust variants are still recognisably Sarpaneva with their radial dial motif and sculpted case.

Stardust (left) and Stardust “Nostromo”

The iridescent colours of the Stardust are not exactly novel, but it is a different take on the fashionable “rainbow” watch and it is certainly executed well since Sarpaneva does impressive dial work in its price segment.

On the other hand, the dark colours of the Stardust “Nostromo” give it a more sci-fi feel that goes well with Sarpaneva’s house style.

Both Stardust model are priced at €16,500 each, making them slightly affordable than the comparably spec’ed Valterri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” released last year. While hefty on its face, the price tag is easily justified considering Sarpaneva’s small output and hand finishing of the dial and case.

20th anniversary

The Stardust pair was inspired by sisu, a Finnish philosophy of overcoming adversity with resilience. According to Sarpaneva, the brand’s 20-year pursuit of creating original timepieces is all about sisu. 

Executed in the typical Sarpaneva style, the limited edition pair both feature open-worked dials with stencilled numerals inspired by the numerals on space rockets and fighter jets. A rocket-shaped seconds is located eccentrically at ten o’clock, giving the dial an interesting asymmetry.

The seconds hand on the Stardust

The new pair is available in two distinct dial configurations. First is Stardust, which has a titanium dial that has been heated by hand to produce a rainbow-like oxide finish inspired by the deep-space landscapes visible from observatory telescopes.

Dial detail of “Nostromo”

“Nostromo”, on the other hand, is almost monochromatic. It has a DLC-coated dial and its hands, stencilled numerals, compass-like markings on the seconds dial, and its black polished seconds hand are coated with Super-Luminova for legibility in the dark.

The “lume” shot of the Stardust Nostromo

Both versions share the same signature case measuring 42 mm in diameter and 10 mm high. It’s brushed and polished with a heavily notched outline that is the brand’s defining case design. Like all Sarpnaeva cases, the case is crafted from high-grade stainless steel smelted in Finland. 

The Stardust models are powered by the P1003 made by complications specialist Chronode. Featuring a power reserve of 60 hours, the P1003 has been customised by Sarpaneva to feature a bespoke rotor bearing the brand’s trademark moon “face”. 

Key Facts and Price

Sarpaneva Stardust and Stardust “Nostromo”

Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 10 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Modified Chronode P1003
Functions: Hours, minutes, and small seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle, additional rubber strap

Limited edition: 40 pieces, with 20 per model
Availability: Direct from Sarpaneva
Price: €16,500 before taxes

For more, visit Sarpanevawatches.com.

Inspired by the northern lights, the Sarpaneva x Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” continues the Finnish’s brands tradition of artfully applied Super-Luminova. This 17-piece limited edition Stepan Sarpaneva’s third model dedicated to Valteri Bottas, a fellow Finn who competes for the Alfa Romeo Formula 1 team.

Unlike the first pair of Bottas editions that made by Mr Sarpaneva’s more affordable S.U.F. brand, the Kilpisjärvi is a full-fledged Sarpaneva watch so it has an elaborately open-worked dial, unusually shaped case, and in a first for the brand, the Chronode P1003 automatic movement inside.

Initial thoughts

Born into a family of designers and artists, Stepan Sarpenava unsurprisingly has a strikingly distinct aesthetic. This comes through in all of his work, despite the diversity of his offerings.

With its open-worked dial and multi-coloured lume, the Kilpisjärvi might seem similar to his recent releases, but it is notably different. In contrast to the earlier editions that were heavily figurative, the Kilpisjärvi is abstract, especially during the day. In fact, the dial pattern is almost graceful, though the aggressive Sarpaneva styling is still obvious in the hands and case. Only at night when the Super-Luminova glows is the northern lights motif easily apparent.

For anyone who enjoys Mr Sarpaneva’s unusual aesthetic, the Kilpisjärvi is easily appealing – with two caveats. One is the size, which at 46 mm is large and places it amongst the biggest Sarpaneva watches. Another is the price of €17,500 that’s fair for the quality and Sarpaneva brand name, but still almost four times the S.U.F. Bottas edition.

Aurora borealis

The watch is named after Kilpisjärvi, a small village located in the far north of Finland where Mr Bottas has a getaway home. According to Sarpaneva, it is there that Mr Bottas goes to unwind, and also where the aurora borealis lights up the sky.

Done in the typical Sarpaneva style, the open-worked dial reveals a motif inspired by the northern lights rendered in five colours of Super-Luminova. Because the Super-Luminova is applied randomly on each example, all of the 17 pieces of the edition will have different dials.

The aurora borealis captured by Mr Bottas himself

Made of three parts, the dial is produced in a similar fashion to the open-worked dials found in the Moomin watches. The dial components are cut by laser and then finished by hand, including the chapter ring that carries the hour markers. All of the Super-Luminova on the dial is similarly applied by hand.

Finished entirely with a matte frosting, the case is instantly recognisable with its heavily notched outline and as always made of high-grade stainless steel that’s smelted in Finland. It’s 46 mm in diameter but a relatively thin 11.5 mm high.

Visible through the back is a Chronode P1003, a large calibre with a longish power reserve of 60 hours. Being used for the first time by Sarpaneva, the P1003 has been customised with a rotor bearing the brand’s trademark moon “face” that takes the form of an open-worked medallion.

Open working the moon disc for the rotor

Key Facts and Price

Sarpaneva x Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi”

Diameter: 46 mm
Thickness: 11.5 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Chronode P1003
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle, additional rubber strap

Limited edition: 17 pieces
Availability: Direct from Sarpaneva
Price: €17,500 before taxes

For more, visit Studiosarpaneva.com.

Finnish through and through, Sarpaneva and its affordable sub-line S.U.F. Helsinki often turn to their native land for inspiration, as with the glow-in-the-dark Gothic fantasy of the recent Nocturne. Now S.U.F. is celebrating Valtteri Bottas, a Formula 1 driver nickname the “Flying Finn” who now races for Alfa Romeo.

The S.U.F Flying Finn is a pair of limited editions created in collaboration with Mr Bottas. The first is the VB77 in red and white that’s named after the driver’s car number, while the second is the FF-S dressed in white and silver. Both share a partially open dial that’s a first for an S.U.F. wristwatch.

FF-S

Initial thoughts

I’m not generally a fan of watches with racing stripes – and I didn’t warm up to earlier S.U.F watches with stripes – but the Flying Finn aesthetic works. In fact, it’s one of the few watches with an exaggerated racing look that works. The red-and-blue VF77 with its DLC-coated case is especially striking.

Mr Bottas with the VB77

The success of the design perhaps because of the partially-open dial along with the “bottle cap” bezel. And the tangible features of the watch also helps. Both models have the typical S.U.F. appeal, namely a highly quality case and well-made dial, along with an affordable price tag.

That’s relative, however, as the Flying Finn editions cost about double the entry-level 180 from S.U.F. that contains the same movement but inside a simpler case with a plainer dial.

VB77

FF-S

Racing time

Both Flying Finn editions share the same basic specs. Characterised by a prominent notched bezel, the case is a wide 44 mm but thin at just over 9 mm high. While the VB77 has a diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating that gives it a charcoal finish, the FF-S has a matte brushing on the natural steel finish.

Notably, the case is a new design for S.U.F., which previously relied on a smaller, simpler case with a smooth bezel. The notched bezel evokes the fancier cases of Sarpaneva, which sells watches in a far higher price segment.

Also notable is the open-worked dial that has three vertical apertures. These form racing stripes and offer a peek into the mechanics, revealing the base plate and date wheel of the movement. The FF-S has a white dial with blue numerals, while the VB77 has a three-colour dial in red, blue, and white. In typical Sarpaneva style, the standard date wheel has been replaced with the brand’s own that has open-worked date numerals.

The seventh day of the month is replaced by a “77” in a nod to Mr Bottas

The movement is inside both is the A10, a workhorse calibre found in almost every Sarpaneva and S.U.F. model. Conceived by the movement manufacturer Soprod as an alternative to the ETA 2892, the A10 is based on the architecture of the Seiko 4L calibre but now made in Switzerland.

FF-S (left), and VB77

Key Facts and Price

S.U.F. Helsinki Flying Finn
Ref. FF-S (silver and white dial)
Ref. VB77 (red and white dial)

Diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 9.2 mm
Material: Stainless steel (additional DLC coating for VB77)
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Soprod A10
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Calfskin with pin buckle

Limited edition: 75 pieces for FF-S, and 77 pieces for VB77
Availability: Direct from S.U.F. Helsinki, with delivery in 1-2 months from order date
Price: €4,500 for FF-S, and €5,250 for VB77 (prices before taxes)

For more, visit Sufhelsinki.com.

Finnish independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has once again turned to a Finnish artist for the Nocturne, a wristwatch that combines the technicolour luminosity of the brand’s Moomin editions with its trademark complication.

Starkly monochromatic during the day, the multi-part dial comes to life at night, thanks to the nine colours of luminous paint that fill the hundreds of tiny apertures all precisely cut by laser. And sitting in the an window that occupies a third of the dial is a huge moon “face” that instantly marks this out as a Sarpaneva.

Initial thoughts

Though the Nocturne looks quite different from the brand’s past watches yet quintessentially Sarpaneva in style and execution. Although it relies on a similar decorative technique as the earlier Moomin edition, the Nocturne is far more distinct. And the slightly gothic style suits the Sarpaneva aesthetic perfectly.

I like the design and being familiar with Sarpaneva’s other watches, I expect the quality of the dial to be excellent. In all tangible terms the watch is winner. But then there’s the price, which is substantial.

The Nocturne costs €19,000. That’s within the ballpark for the brand’s moon-phase models, with the premium justified by the fancy dial. And compared to the broader market – especially with the current hype around independent watchmaking regardless of quality or provenance – it’s still a reasonable proposition.

But it is pricey compared to Sarpaneva’s earlier offerings that were heavy on lume. The first Moomin edition was just €5,000, though it was an S.U.F., the affordable, sub-brand of Sarpaneva, meaning it had a simple case and plain movement. More comparable is the second Moomin edition, which has the same case but no moon phase display; it was priced at €12,000. Even with the moon phase and fancier dial, the Nocturne still feels expensive next to that.

A theatrical dial

According to Sarpaneva, the dial of the Nocturne was inspired by the puppet or shadow play travelling theatres of Europe. The motif was conceived with the help of Ville Tietäväinen, a Finnish graphic designer and comic book artist.

Depicting an owl looking out to sea with trademark Sarpaneva moon “face” looming over the scene, the dial is cut by laser and then finished by hand, just like on the earlier Moomin models. It’s actually comprised of six parts to create the depth and layers that are evident even at arm’s length.

There are 233 apertures on the dial and most of them have been filled with Super-Luminova. Nine colours of the luminescent paint are applied to every dial, resulting in a brilliant miniature landscape in the dark.

The key feature of the dial is the moon phase display, a complication almost synonymous with Sarpaneva. Mechanically the moon phase is simple – essentially a replacement disc for the date mechanism – and it takes 29.5 days to complete one cycle. As the moon phase disc moves over the course of the month, the background of the dial gradually shifts from the moon “face” to a shooting star.

The display during a full moon

And a new moon

The case of the Nocturne is the standard Sarpaneva case, although there’s nothing standard about its design or quality. Featuring flared lugs and “ears” on both flanks, the case has an unconventional form that calls for careful finishing to create the alternating brushed and polished surfaces, some of which are concave.

And it is fabricated from steel sourced locally, specifically the SUPRA 316L/4435 alloy made by Outokumpu, the Finnish steel giant that’s the largest maker of stainless steel in Europe.

Two versions of the Nocturne are available, differing only in the colour of the moon “face”. The White Glow Moon has the moon in white Super-Luminova, while the Orange Glow Moon has it in orange, inspired by the harvest moon, the orangey full moon visible in the Northern hemisphere in late summer and autumn. Each is limited to 30 pieces.

The two versions in orange and white

Key Facts and Price

Sarpaneva Nocturne

Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 11.4 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Soprod A10
Functions: Hours, minutes, and moon phase
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Alligator leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: 30 for dial type
Availability: Direct from S.U.F. Helsinki, with delivery in 2-6 months from order date
Price: €19,000 before taxes

For more, visit Sufhelsinki.com.

Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva had a hit on his hands with last year’s S.U.F. Helsinki x Moomin, a limited edition made to mark 75 years of the titular Swedish comic strip about trolls. Now the watchmaker is following up with the Sarpaneva x Moomin, which is seemingly identical in terms of design but actually an entirely different watch.

Crucially, this is a Sarpaneva wristwatch, unlike last year’s Moomin edition, which was an S.U.F. Helsinki, a line of affordable watches spun off from Sarpaneva. Being a Sarpaneva, it is a higher end product, it has the decoration and finishing typical of Sarpaneva wristwatches, as well as the corresponding price.

Initial thoughts

Having enjoying a brisk sellout last year, the Moomin watch making a comeback is not a surprise. Ordinarily I don’t like repeats of the same thing, but here it’s not exactly the same thing. And in fact the new Moomin watch is tangibly superior.

Sarpaneva is repeating the idea with a twist, putting the same design into a watch with better fit and finish. One obvious example of that improvement is the open-worked chapter ring around the dial, which is finished by hand with circular graining  and polished bevels. Another is the skeletonised rotor with the Sarpaneva moon “face” and solid-gold weights.

While the intrinsic quality of the watch justifies the price, I would have hoped the dial motif would be different. Even though the dial is fancier with the hand-finished chapter ring, the primary motif is identical to that of the S.U.F. edition. But that is probably explained by the fact that Mr Sarpaneva has limited say over the Moomin motif, since the intellectual property is licensed from the owners of the franchise.

At €12,000, the new Moomin watch is just over twice as expensive as the original version. The increase, however, is easily  justified by the fact that this is a Sarpaneva watch, which means it has all the quality that come with the name.

Full lume

Like the first Moomin edition, the dial is the centrepiece of the watch. Depicting Moomintroll “lying in his customary place… on the green-and-yellow moss”, the dial a three-layer, skeletonised affair that’s fabricated with machines and then finished by hand.

The base layer forms the background of reeds, which are open-worked and filled with eight colours of Super-Luminova. The reeds are filled by hand at random, making the colour combination of each dial unique.

Filling the dial with Super-Luminova

Over the reeds is another open-worked section, this one with Moomintroll amidst the plants. This layer is lacquered and then laser etched to create the two-tone finish. And it’s topped with the open-worked chapter ring with the spherical hour markers. The chapter ring hand finished with circular graining on top and polished chamfers within each of the open rings.

To accompany the dial are four choices for hands: rhodium-plated steel, flame blued, rose-gold plated, or black coated. The edition is limited to 100 pieces, with 25 in each type of hands.

Sarpaneva style

The new Moomin edition utilises the standard Sarpaneva watch case, which has a distinctive shape characterised by wide notches in the bezel. The case is finished with both polished and brushed surfaces, even on the unusual planes like the concave bezel and notched case sides.

It’s 42 mm in diameter but relatively thin at 11.4 mm high. And like all Sarpaneva and S.U.F. cases, it is made of Finnish stainless steel, specifically the SUPRA 316L/4435 alloy made by local steelmaker Outokumpu.

The movement within is the same Soprod A10 found in the S.U.F. Moomin, but it has been elaborated upon, unlike the calibre in the S.U.F. version that is essentially stock. For one the movement itself has been finished with perlage on the bridges and base plate.

But the highlight is the full rotor, which is stainless steel and skeletonised. It bears the trademark Sarpaneva moon “face” emblem, which is flanked by a pair of white gold plates that act as weights for the rotor.

And the rotor has naturally been lumed to match the dial, with the eyes and lips of the moon “face” painted with Super-Luminova.

Key Facts and Price

Sarpaneva x Moomin

Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 11.4 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Soprod A10
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Salmon leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: 100 pieces, with 25 in each colour
Availability: Direct from S.U.F. Helsinki
Price: €12,000 before taxes

For more, visit Sufhelsinki.com.

Finnish independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva is famous for his frowning moon “face”, an instantly recognisable emblem of contemporary watchmaking. But he also makes more affordable watches under the S.U.F. Helsinki label, which recently launched the S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin, a cartoon watch that is seriously good.

Created to celebrate the 75th anniversary of Moomin, a series of books and comics by Finnish author Tove Jansson, the Moomin watch is based on the S.U.F. 180, a fuss-free three-hander that’s inspired by vintage military-issue watches, but dressed up with a three-layer dial hand painted in multiple shades of Super-Luminova. Even in moderately low light, the dial glows in technicolor glory – that alone is worth the modest price of admission.

Initial thoughts

The S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin is different and compelling, but easy to wear and put together notably well. Specifically, the dial and case are executed to a high level. The dial is three layers, and then hand finished and hand painted, while the case is a slim but robust construction that is finished skilfully.

And the Moomin watch retailed for €5,000, or about US$5,900 – making it excellent value for money. The quality and detail of the dial – think of it as affordable metiers d’art – is especially outstanding for the price.

Admittedly, Moomin has no particular resonance for me – and won’t for anyone who isn’t a fan of the comic – but the dial in itself is appealing. It’s quirky, whimsical, and it works.

In fact, everything about the watch works save for two elements – the too-thick strap and the difficulty in reading the minute markers – that are forgivable. The only downside of the Moomin watch is the fact that is sold out within a day of its launch.

The Sarpaneva emblem on the case back

The trolls

Moomin about a family of trolls who are large, round, and resemble hippos. They live in Moominvalley, along with friends like Snork, Snufkin, and Little My, with their lives and adventures documented in nine books and several dozen comics.

In the decades since it was first published, Moomin has gained a cult following globally, particularly in Scandinavia countries, but also as faraway as Japan, which is home to the world’s second Moomin theme park after the original Moominworld in Finland.

The face of contentment

The primary character of the comic, Moomintroll, is the boy of the troll family. He is immortalised on the dial of the watch “lying in his customary place (or one of his places) curled up on the green-and-yellow moss with his tail carefully tucked in under him… He looked gravely and contentedly down into the water while he listened to the rustle of wings and the drowsy buzz of bees around him.”

Dial

Notably elaborately for a watch of this price, the dial is the star of the show. It’s made up of three layers of steel: the base with the reeds of Moomintroll’s “customary place”, followed by the disc with Moomintroll, and over that is the chapter ring with the minute markers.

Each dial layer is cut via laser, which allows for a high degree of detail, exemplified by the slender reeds on the base. What follows is hand finishing with a file to remove burrs.

The layers are then entirely covered in black lacquer, and followed by laser etching. The etching removes the black lacquer selectively to create the motif, while lightly texturing the clean surfaces with a fine, linear pattern that creates a matte finish, resulting in a motif with some shading. And the open-worked chapter ring for the minutes is circular grained.

The base layer of the dial before laser etching. Photo – S.U.F.

Filing the edge of the middle layer. Photo – S.U.F.

The fine, linear pattern created by the back and forth motion of the laser is visible up close

But the genius of the design is the lavish and careful application of Super-Luminova, and by far the most artful use of the luminous paint I can recall. With a microscope and squirt gun, eight Super-Luminova colours are applied to the layers of dial.

Applying the Super-Luminova. Photo – S.U.F.

The dial base under the microscope, with Super-Luminova being applied to its underside. Photo – S.U.F.

The Super-Luminova for the reeds is done at random, giving each dial a unique combination of colours. And layer with Moomintroll is also gets a dash of “lume” on the flowers as well as the pair of dragonflies at six o’clock.

The hands are rhodium-plated brass with a two-tone finish lengthwise, which makes them distinct from the dial. Legibility is good, enough though the hands and dial are in similar tones. The other two versions of the Moomin watch have rose gold or blue hands respectively, which offer the greatest contrast against the dial.

While it is easy to read the time, it can only be done approximately, because the minute track is identical all the way around, except at the quarters, which are marked by a luminous dot at 12 o’clock and screws at the other three. That isn’t an issue, since the exact time isn’t important for me. But it does make setting the time a pain since the current time has to be counted from the nearest quarter.

Finnish steel, Swiss mechanics

With proportions that are almost ideal, the case is compact and thin. It cuts a slim profile on the wrist, but doesn’t look too small as a result of the narrow, concave bezel that emphasises the dial.

The case is actually the same as that of the S.U.F. 180, a no-nonsense watch that is excellent value – it costs half the Moomin watch – but less interesting because of the basic, military-style design.

The case is fabricated from SUPRA 316L/4435, a steel alloy that’s 316L grade, the de facto standard in watchmaking. But like all the steel used by S.U.F. and Sarpaneva, the alloy is appropriately supplied by a steel-making giant from S.U.F.’s hometown of Helsinki, Outokumpu.

The case is refined and precise, with lots of detail not usually found on an entry-level watch. It’s mostly finished with a neat linear brushing, which is juxtaposed against a polished bezel, which is concave and ends in a narrow step at its top.

The polished bevel between the brushed top and side of each lug is neatly executed, and also done by hand, instead of being done by a CNC mill as is common in affordable watches.

And the back is screw down, an unusual feature in a thin case of a simple watch. At its centre is the Sarpaneva moon “face” emblem, which is more often seen on the pricer moon-phase watches of Sarpaneva main line.

Inside the case is a Soprod A10, a fairly common movement originally developed as an alternative to the even more common ETA 2892. Slim like the ETA 2892 and identically sized, the Soprod A10 is meant to be a “drop in” replacement. It’s also known as the M100, which is Soprod’s name for the latest generation of the movement.

A smaller movement supplier than giants like ETA and Sellita, Soprod is owned by the Festina Group, which makes most of its money with low-end watch brands like Lotus and Jaguar, but also owns higher-end brands Perrelet and Leroy, as well as component and movement makers.

Short for “Alternance 10”, the A10 was actually derived from the Seiko 4L movement, the result of Seiko attempting to build a presence as a movement supplier to Swiss brands about a decade ago. Produced for a brief period by Seiko as the 4L25 and 4L75, the 4L has long since disappeared from Seiko’s offerings, and has been replaced by the 6L movement found in a handful of Presage and Credor models.

The A10 is most often found in watches from niche makers – popular for being a cost-efficient movement when bought in small numbers – and is functionally equivalent to the ETA 2892. It does the job as well as the ETA 2892 in my experience, with one exception: its automatic winding doesn’t seem quite as efficient, meaning it takes longer to wind the mainspring completely.

Concluding thoughts

The S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin cleverly blends some elements of Sarpaneva’s high-end watches, namely the generous use of Super-Luminova, with an idiosyncratic motif. The result is an appealing watch in all respects – aesthetics, finish, and price.

In fact, the Moomin watch arguably represents the sweet spot across all of Sarpaneva’s watches. It’s more interesting than the base-model S.U.F. line up, while being more affordable than the more complicated Sarpaneva moon-phase models.

Key Facts and Price

S.U.F. Helsinki Sarpaneva x Moomin

Diameter: 38.7 mm
Thickness: 8.9 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Soprod A10
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Canvas with pin buckle

Limited edition: 75 pieces
Availability: Sold out
Price: €5,000 before taxes

For more, visit Sufhelsinki.com.

A comic strip populated by quirky characters, Moomin is the creation of the late Finnish artist Tove Jansson. The long-running comic marks its 75th anniversary in 2020, and is marking the occasion with a limited edition wristwatch created by Finnish watchmaker S.U.F Helsinki, the more affordable brand started by independent watchmaker Stephan Sarpaneva, who is best known for his moon phase watches.

The Sarpaneva x Moomin watch features a skeletonised dial depicting a central character from the comic, Moomintroll, amidst a pastoral landscape. While the dial is monochromatic during the day, it dazzles up at night as a result of the Technicolour Super-Luminova that’s been painted by hand.

Initial thoughts

The glow-in-the-dark dial is whimsical and striking, even for someone unfamiliar with the comic. And it is presented in an appealing pacakge.

S.U.F typically offers excellent case quality, and here the whole has been boosted by the complex open working of the dial, a feature that is typically found on pricier Sarpaneva watches. And inside is a Soprod A10, a tried-and-tested movement from a widely-known maker, which means servicing will be easy.

For €5,000, or about US$5,900, the Moomin wristwatch is a compelling, fun purchase, especially since it is a small run of just 75 watches. Though it costs double the base-model S.U.F watch with the same case and movement, the hand-painted “lume” dial is a surprisingly intricate bit of work for a relatively affordable watch.

Dial art

The dial is a three-part construction made of steel that’s been filed by hand to refine the edges. It’s filled, by hand once again, with eight colours of Super-Luminova to create the brilliantly coloured background.

And to match the dial, three different options for hands are available – blue, rose gold, or rhodium – each being limited to 25 pieces, for a total of 75.

The case is thin and compact, at just under 39 mm in diameter and only 8.9 mm high, but it still manages a respectable 100 m water resistance. The slim dimensions are due in part to the Soprod A10 movement within. It’s an automatic with a 42-hour power reserve.

Both the case and movement are also found on the S.U.F 180, the brand’s entry-level model. For someone who appreciates the case size and quality, but wants a no-nonsense aviator’s watch style, the 180 is a more accessibly priced watch.

The Moomin watch is delivered in a Moomin-motif fabric pouch made by Finnish textile maker Finlayson

Key Facts and Price

S.U.F. Helsinki Sarpaneva x Moomin

Diameter: 38.7 mm
Thickness: 8.9 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Soprod A10
Functions: Hours, and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Canvas with pin buckle

Limited edition: 75 pieces
Availability: Direct from S.U.F
Price: €5,000 before taxes

For more, visit Sufhelsinki.com.

Sarpaneva endows the Korona Northern Lights with a sandwich dial and a powerful coat of Super-Luminova, giving it the green, blue or violet colours of the Aurora Borealis in the dark.

A variant of Stepan Sarpaneva‘s signature moon phase wristwatch, the Korona K01 Northern Lights combines the Finnish watchmaker’s strikingly expressive moon face with a radiant Super-Luminova dial. A sandwich construction gives the dial two layers, an open-worked dial on the top and a Super-Luminova coated disc below, giving it a blue, green or violet glow in the dark. Sarpaneva worked with Black Badger Advanced Composites, a Swedish maker of carbon fibre and titanium jewellery, to create the Super-Luminova dials; Black Badger also decorates its rings with the same luminous material. Each of the three dial colours is coated to match the colour of the Super-Luminova, with the distinctive moon phase disc made of 18k red or white gold, just as it is on every other Sarpaneva watch, including the MB&F Moonmachine.

The Korona K01 Northern Lights has a 46 mm steel case, with a Soprod A10 automatic movement inside. Here the movement has been modified to have the moon phase disc replace the date, with slightly different gearing required so that the moon disc makes one revolution every 29.5 days (a date disc takes 31 days to make a full circle). And the rotor is inlaid with a moon face and weight in 18k gold.

In the day

And at night

Three models of the Northern Lights are available, green, blue and violet. All have steel cases except for the violet, which is black coated. The Sarpaneva Korona Northern Lights is priced at €14,500 before taxes.

Yesterday Max Busser unveiled the Moonmachine, the latest variant of the HM3. Based on the HM3 Frog, the Moonmachine was conceived by Stepan Sarpaneva.

Taking the place of the date on the HM3 is Sarpaneva’s recognisable moonphase display against a background of stars. Below the moonphase sits a mystery rotor similarly decorated with stars. My favourite version of the Moonmachine is the black titanium with an electric blue moon disc and rotor.

It is also available in red gold with a grey moon disc and rotor.

The moon face is dramatic, almost comically so. Though it is identical to the moon on Sarpaneva’s round wristwatches, the expression on the is far more pronounced here due to the form of the HM3 case.

Intriguingly the expression of the moon face seems to change, depending on the angle at which it is viewed and the resulting shadows on the face. The effect is subtle, and it ranges from amused to displeased.

Sitting below the moon disc is a mystery rotor that covers the GP base calibre of the HM3. Because it winds unidirectionally, it spins freely in one direction. Visually the Moonmachine is an attractive watch, and the Sarpaneva moon is a perfect fit for the Frog case. Every successive variant of each machine seems to be cooler than the next (intentional perhaps). Enjoy the rest of the photos below. – SJX

MB&F has just unveiled the Moonmachine. This is a result of Maximilian Busser’s collaboration with Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva best known for his mildly menacing moonphase display. 

A variant of the bug-eyed HM3 Frog, the HM3 Moonmachine has Sarpaneva’s trademark frowning moon face peering out from where the movement and rotor of the HM3 normally are. This is the fifth “performance art” watch that MB&F has created in collaboration with a partner. An earlier example is the HM4 Flying Panda created with Chinese artist Huang Hankang. 

Maximilian Busser and Stepan Sarpaneva

The moonphase is set against a plate with laser cut constellations for a very dramatic look. And the time is indicated in the same as that on the regular HM3 Frog, with two rotating aluminium domes under sapphire.  

The engine of the Moonmachine

This video illustrates the details of the watch and motion of the moonphase well. This will be made in three editions of 18 pieces each – titanium, black coated titanium and red gold. the black titanium with the blue constellations looks the most striking. Retail will be CHF84,000 before tax.

From top: titanium, red gold and black coated titanium

Live photos to come very soon. – SJX

HM3 Moonmachine black titanium

HM3 Moonmachine red gold

HM3 Moonmachine titanium