Appropriately for the 90th anniversary of famed reversible wristwatch, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has debuted the ultimate Reverso. Boasting 11 complications, including a tourbillon, minute repeater, and instantaneous perpetual calendar, the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is a monumental wristwatch with four faces and a movement made up of 800 parts.

Initial thoughts

The Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is smaller than the Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque – which was so big as to be almost unwearable for most – but still sizeable enough to be clunky. It measures 51.2 mm by 31 mm, while standing 15.15 mm high, making it larger than the biggish Nonantième that was launched at the same time. Granted, the size is necessary for the ultra-complex, four-faced movement.

Majority of the complications within the new grand complication can be found in past JLC watches, making the Calibre 185 Quadriptyque something of a greatest-hits compilation for the brand.

Impressive as it is, the Calibre 185 feels dated, in the sense that watches with numerous complications stacked up were a “thing” in the 2000s; the Triptyque was launched in 2007 and truly exotic in its day. Now that such watches are fairly common, with many leading brands having their own grand multi-complications, the concept is less impressive, regardless of the technical achievement.

It’s also worth pointing out that the watch is elaborately decorated – mainly with Clous de Paris guilloche and blue lacquer – but it is still lacquer rather than fired enamel. Finer, artisanal decoration would be appropriate given what the watch costs.

Still, all of that matters little since only ten of the Calibre 185 will be made. The appetite for ultra high-end watches is strong, and the ten watches will sell, probably not swiftly but still surely.

At the same time, the retail of €1.35 million, or about US$1.60 million, feels a bit ambitious, given Jaeger-LeCoultre’s historical position as a maker of complications executed more affordably. The retail price is about the same as the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002 (admittedly tough to obtain at retail), which offers a different set of functions but is comparable in complexity.

Generously four faced

Logically arranged in two sections – each with two faces – the Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is made up of the swivelling case and the cradle below.

With the cal. 185 comprising 800 parts in total, the case contains majority of the movement, including the timekeeping going train, instantaneous perpetual calendar, as well as chiming mechanism. Within the cradle are 105 components of the movement, all dedicated to astronomical indications centred on the moon, including the age of the moon in both the Northern and Southern Hemispheres.

The first of the four faces of the Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is the most straightforward. It incorporates a flying tourbillon at seven o’clock, which has the familiar three-armed carriage construction found in other JLC tourbillon watches.

And it is also home to the perpetual calendar, showing the day, big date, month, and leap year indicator. It’s an instantaneous perpetual calendar, meaning all three change over instantly at midnight – a necessity in order to drive the astronomical indications on the cradle as we explain below.

The time is also indicated on a secondary dial found on the reverse of the case; it is identical to the time on the front and not a second time zone. It indicates hours via a jumping disc, and minutes with a small pointer on the periphery of the minute scale.

Activated by the compact slide just above the crown, the repeater incorporates several of JLC’s past inventions for striking mechanisms, including crystal gongs that are mounted on the crystal for increased volume, as well as the multi-pivoted trebuchet hammers that strike with greater force. And the striking mechanism features redesigned racks that eliminate the traditional pauses in between the hour and minute chimes when there are no quarters to be struck, which is also found in earlier JLC grand complications.

The twin hammers of the repeater sit on the lower edge of the movement, with the silent governor visible at nine o’clock

The inner face of the cradle shows the moon as visible from the Northern Hemisphere at 12 o’clock, with a laser-engraved moon against a blue lacquered sky. Notably, the moon phase is accurate to a day in 1,111 years, as compared to the 122.5 years of a typical moon phase display.

On its lower left is the draconic cycle indicator, which foretells the occurrence of a solar or lunar eclipse since it tracks the intersection of the orbit of the Moon relative to the Earth going around the Sun. To the right of the draconic cycle display is the anomalistic cycle indicator that shows the Moon’s distance from Earth. When a full moon occurs with the Moon closest to Earth, a “supermoon” occurs, with the Moon seeming about 14% larger in diameter when viewed from Earth.

The Northern Hemisphere moon phase at top

The tiny, fire-enamelled globe of the anomalistic cycle indicator

The final, and simplest, face of the Calibre 185 is on the rear of the cradle. It’s essentially the inverse of the Northern Hemisphere moon phase display, showing a Southern Hemisphere moon phase. As it is on the front, the moon phase is depicted against a blue-lacquered sky motif.

The secret to the connection between the two sections of the movement is just as it was in the Triptyque (which was similarly constructed but with three faces instead of four).

A tiny pin located on the base of the case extends at midnight, triggering the astronomical mechanism within the cradle, moving all of the astronomical indications forward by one step. The pin is part of the perpetual calendar mechanism, and extends simultaneously with the calendar change over. Naturally, for the mechanism to work, the case has to be secured in the cradle (on either side).

The Southern Hemisphere moon phase

Visually, the Calibre 185 Quadriptyque departs from earlier JLC grand complications. It is dominated by hobnail guilloche – done by hand the traditional way with a straight-line engine – accented with blued steel components like the hands and screws, giving it a metallic, slightly industrial feel that gives the Calibre 185 a more modern aesthetic.

Importantly, the watch is delivered with a box that incorporates a smart setting mechanism to set all of the calendar and astronomical functions of the watch.

Key Facts and Price

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185
Ref. Q7103420

Diameter: 51.2 mm by 31 mm
Height: 15.15 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 185
Functions:
Face 1: Hours and minutes, flying tourbillon, and instantaneous perpetual calendar with big date
Face 2: Jumping hours, minutes, and minute repeater
Face 3: Northern Hemisphere moon phase, as well as indicators for lunar month, moon apogee and perigee, month, and year
Face 4: Southern Hemisphere Moon Phase
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Hand wind
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Alligator with white gold folding clasp

Additional accessories: Presentation box with built-in setting mechanism for time and calendar

Limited edition: 10 pieces
Availability: On order at boutiques and retailers
Price: €1.35m, or about US$1.60m

For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.

I’m familiar with IWC pilot’s watches, having once owned a Mark XVII, which I bought as the quintessential flieger watch. But the Mark XVII didn’t last too long in my collection because it is very much military-inspired, and I’m not much of a military man, making it hard for me to connect with the design. When I got the chance to test drive the new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 (ref. IW3881) – the latest version of IWC’s longstanding bestseller – I figured it was an opportunity to see if the fliegerchronograph would appeal to me where the time-only Mark XVII did not.

Initial thoughts

On paper, the 41 mm Pilot’s Watch Chronograph is an evolution rather than a revolution, perhaps unsurprising given how popular successive versions of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph have been over the three decades they have been in the catalogue.

The various elements that make up the watch are familiar – the blue dial can be found on the larger “Le Petit Prince” Pilot’s Watch Chronograph from 2016, while the cal. 69000-family movement inside a reduced, 41 mm case was exactly the revamped Spitfire Pilot’s Watch Chronograph launched in 2019.

But still, the new chronograph manages to be a whole that’s greater than the sum of its parts. While constituent parts might be similar, but they arguably work better together here than in any prior watch.

I was surprised at how much I liked the watch. For one, the 41 mm case is significantly more wearable than the previous-generation 43 mm case, which I felt was too bulky. On my 7″ wrist, the 41 mm case is substantial but not imposing. The new case also makes the watch more versatile stylistically – the watch felt at home even with more formal outfits, especially when paired with a leather strap.

Then there’s the striking blue dial that seems to be identical to that on the “Le Petit Prince” chronograph. The colour and sunburst finish give the dial a lively appearance that sets it apart from the typical IWC pilot’s watches, which are mostly serious-looking, “tool” watches. In hindsight, that was probably why I didn’t vibe with the utilitarian Mark XVII; I prefer my watches to have some visual flair.

The new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 has flair, especially with the blue dial. While there’s also a green variant available, I find its colour a bit too faddish – it is just one of many green-dial watches this year – given that an aviator’s watch usually more classic and unchanging in style. The blue dial is very much a Goldilocks aesthetic – just right in being more eye-catching than the usual black dials, but not overly modish like its green counterpart.

But the new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph is more than just a new colour and size. Its most substantive change is the in-house cal. 69385, instead of the Valjoux 7750 found in previous iterations of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph. Developed in-house by IWC, the cal. 69385 is a robust workhorse calibre of the very sort that should be in a pilot’s watch, but also has refinements like a column wheel and skeletonised escape wheel.

The cal. 69385

More than the sum of its parts

Now the house style for all its Pilot’s watches, the dial design is essentially a modern take on the dial found inside the beobachtungsuhr, or “navigation watch”, that IWC made for the second world war German Air air force. Though it includes all the elements found on the vintage original, they have all been made slightly gentler – the lozenge hands are rounder and less aggressively shaped – or more civilian friendly, in other words.

As a result, the new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph feels like a movie we’ve seen before – the dial is virtually identical to the “Le Petit Prince” Pilot’s Watch Chronograph, except for the position of the seconds sub-dial that’s been moved from nine to six o’clock as a result of the new movement. The relocated seconds at six has a red hand – a smart, functional detail that clearly differentiates it from the totaliser counters.

Up close, the dial of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 is neatly finished. Every element is properly executed, as you would expect for a high-quality watch at this price, but simply and without any flourish. The printed indices and markers are precise, while the hands are cleanly polished. And the day-date windows are slightly recessed with stepped borders and rounded corners.

If there’s one element I would improve, it’s the calendar. Both the day and date are on white discs, which are jarring against the dial colour. The calendar is not a crucial bit of information, so having the twin discs in blue to blend into the dial doesn’t affect the day-to-day usefulness of the watch.

The sub-dials are stamped with a concentric pattern that provides textural juxtaposition against the sunburst surface of the dial

IWC’s aviation watches have historically possessed excellent cases and this continues that tradition. In fact, the case design is almost identical to that of the first-generation ref. 3706 Fliegerchronograph.

The case is similarly finished well, perhaps a step above the quality of the dial. It has a fine brushed finish that reflects the utilitarian heritage of the watch, but the polished bevels on the lugs and bezel add a bit of refinement.

Where the case can be improved is practically invisible. Because the bezel and case middle are one piece, the border between bezel and case is soft and probably the only ill-defined detail of the case.

Between bezel and case

Along with the case size, the thickness of the watch has also been reduced. It’s still a thick watch, but now stands 14.5 mm high, almost a full millimetre thinner than the previous generation Pilot’s Watch Chronograph. The slimmer and smaller case results in a significantly improved wearing experience.

The watch is 14.5 mm thick

As is standard for most of its Pilot’s Watch line, the chronograph can be had on either a bracelet or leather strap.

The bracelet is weighty and solid, and is equipped with a ratcheting clasp that allows for micro-adjustment of several millimetres either way. Notably, it’s the same extension mechanism found on the Lange Odysseus bracelet. As on the Lange, the extension mechanism is useful, but results in a bulky clasp.

While the quality of the bracelet matches the case, its design isn’t the best. The alternating brushed and polished links of different widths give it somewhat of a dated appearance that doesn’t go with the no-nonsense style of a pilot’s watch.

Alternating finishing on the five-link bracelet

The watch feels more robust on a steel bracelet, but I find the blue strap complements the dial better and wore the watch mostly on the strap.

However, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph features IWC’s EasX-CHANGE, allowing easy swapping of straps without any tools. Unlike many proprietary quick-release system, it’s a simple mechanism, essentially a lever that retracts the springs bars. Though not fancy, it is highly functional.

Being easy to exchange between the two, I would recommend getting the watch with the bracelet, and then buying a strap (it’s more cost efficient than buying the bracelet separately) to go along for different situations.

EasX-CHANGE

New mechanics

Lastly, I’m also heartened to see that IWC has finally bestowed an in-house movement on its most popular chronograph.

While the Valjoux 7750 that powered earlier generations of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph is tried-and-tested – and basically bombproof – it is common and found in many cheaper chronographs. For what the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph costs, a more refined movement is reasonably expected.

One of the less obvious features of the cal. 69385 are the skeletonised escape wheel and pallet lever that operate more efficiently due to their lightness

The use of the cal. 69385 is part of IWC’s ongoing efforts to equip most of its offerings with in-house movements. It ensures the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph is a better value proposition than its predecessors, because the cal. 69385 is an arguably superior movement in terms of technical features. With a column wheel to control the start-stop-reset functions, the cal. 69385 has sharper pusher feel than the Valjoux 7750.

While servicing costs may be slightly higher since the cal. 69385 is a slightly fancier movement, as a watch enthusiast I appreciate the in-house movement as compared to an off-the-shelf alternative.

[If you want to know more about the movement, we explored the cal. 69000 family of movements in greater detail in our review of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph ref. 3716.]

The movement is also finished with Geneva striping and perlage

The cal. 69385 is equipped with a column wheel

Though in house, the movement retains the Etachron regulator of the 7750, which is a practical solution though not the best looking

And in a first for an IWC Pilot’s Watch, the movement can be admired via a sapphire case back. The movement is dressed up with Côtes de Genève and perlage. While not as beautiful to behold as a high-end, manual-winding chronograph movement, it is nonetheless a pleasing sight.

The open back does bring with it a minor drawback. Historically, the brand’s aviator’s watches had solid backs with a soft-iron cage underneath to protect the movement from magnetism. Now that’s been replaced by a soft-iron ring around the movement, making a display back possible. The downside is reduced magnetism resistance, but that has no practical implications for the typical wearer, and definitely none for me.

Concluding thoughts

The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 is one of my favourite releases at this year’s Watches & Wonders. Although derivative in design, the watch is arguably the best recent iteration of the IWC aviator’s chronograph, especially with its more wearable size and the in-house, column-wheel movement. Sometimes, only slight adjustments to a winning formula are all that’s needed for perfection, or at least near perfection.

Alternatives in the same price range include the Zenith Type 20 Chronograph, and the Breitling Navitimer B01. However, the IWC has better proportions, being smaller than its rivals – the Type 20 Chronograph is 45 mm, while even the smallest version of the Navitimer B01 is 43 mm – and significantly more affordable.

In other words, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph is perhaps the pilot chronograph for those seeking something with the traditional aviator’s watch style but in a more manageable size.

Key Facts and Price

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41
Ref. IW388101 (blue dial, strap)
Ref. IW388102 (blue dial, bracelet)
Ref. IW388103 (green dial, strap)
Ref. IW388104 (green dial, bracelet)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 14.5 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 69385
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day and date, and chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 46 hours

Strap: Calfskin with pin buckle, or steel bracelet

Availability: Now at IWC boutiques and authorised retailers
Price:
Strap – US$6,500; or 9,750 Singapore dollars
Bracelet – US$7,200; or 10,800 Singapore dollars

For more, visit IWC.com.

With A. Lange & Söhne having unveiled a compact line-up of new models – just three strong – at Watches & Wonders 2021, I had assumed my chat with its chief executive Wilhelm Schmid would be similarly concise. But last week’s video interview turned out to be more interesting, because we went on to discuss Lange’s strategy for distribution and allocation.

Mr Schmid outlined the new models for 2021 (so far), and then detailed the tweaks to the brand’s retail strategy – in the face of overwhelming demand for certain models, and shortages due to pandemic-induced disruptions.

The discussion is worth a read for a Lange aficionado, but also more broadly for anyone interested in a well-reasoned explanation of how a watch brand has to balance all of the factors involved in getting a desirable watch onto the wrist of a client.

Wilhelm Schmid, working from home

The interview was edited for clarity and length.

SJX: Lange only introduced three models at Watches & Wonders, but they were all warmly received – I liked them myself. Tell us about how the new watches came about.

Wilhelm Schmid: So for this year, we decided to go back to the core of the business, which is always the Lange 1.

We launched the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar in 2013, which was a great watch, because of its two big complications. But we also realized that we were running our Langematik Perpetual Calendar since 2001, almost 20 years, well, actually 20 years this year. That was the only standalone perpetual calendar in our product range. So why not do a Lange 1 perpetual calendar?

If you think it’s pretty easy to take the tourbillon out, and here’s a perpetual calendar – I’m sure our construction team had the same idea at the beginning. But then they realised the perpetual calendar was so integrated that we instead took the Lange 1 Daymatic base and developed the perpetual calendar on top of that. So here we have a completely new perpetual calendar.

And then the second was the appetite for Triple Split [in white gold] – you can imagine it was huge and a lot stronger than our ability to build these watches. However, [additional watchmakers] are now fully trained, and therefore we decided to come up with a second iteration of the Triple Split that’s totally different from the first one. It’s a clear distinction between the first and second iteration, because of the strong contrast between the dark blue dial and pink gold case.

The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar

SJX: I noticed that probably this is the first time ever in Lange’s history when you launched a new collection at a fair and there is no watch with a black or silver dial. You have gold, blue, grey, and aventurine. Why the direction of more colours and more textures?

WS: If you go through the launches in the last 18, 24 months – take the Saxonia Outsize Date, the Odysseus in white gold – you see the more traditional colours, so we then wanted to launch some sparkle, something that we never did before. And therefore the combination of dark blue and pink gold, or the combination of aventurine for the Lange 1.

On the other hand, the pink gold-grey dial [of the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar] is like the [first-generation] Lange 1 Time Zone that was in exactly the same combination but built rather rarely, and often discussed on [social media]. So we are going back to something that we haven’t done in a long, long time, because we know [the combination] is appreciated by our clients.

But I can also say that the year isn’t over. Go back a year: remember what we launched at Watches & Wonders [2020] and how many watches we launched later in the year, and you know that we keep a little bit of fun for later.

The Triple Split in pink gold

SJX: The Triple Split in blue and rose gold is, to me, more attractive than original. I really like the colour and it’s very unusual for Lange. But I read in the news this morning that German is imposing new restrictions due to the pandemic. How is that going to affect your production for the new models, especially since they will probably sell very well?

WS: It’s a challenge that we have been working on since we started facing something which human mankind hasn’t faced before.

The restrictions – specifically for the factory – are immense because the watchmakers can’t work from home. And they usually sit in a big room, many of them together.

Fortunately, we have the new manufactory [built in 2015], which has a very controlled environment in terms of humidity and temperature. So the watchmakers are safe, but we had to space them further apart, and they are not allowed to move between the floors [within a building] or between the buildings.

That limits communication, and it slows down production. It has an impact on all the little steps that make our manufactory go faster or slower. In this case, it’s slower.

On top of that, we have a rather young workforce in the factory; lots of them are women. With schools and kindergartens closed, we now work in shifts from six o’clock in the morning till eight o’clock in the evening to give them a chance to go and fetch their children, do home-schooling [during the day] – it’s all not very positive for efficiency.

So we are experiencing huge challenges in our production, and these challenges, I’m sure you’ve heard, have fuelled quite a few discussions about shortages and how we allocate the limited production.

SJX: I saw the lengthy discussions on social media and forums. There seems to be a lot of second-hand information and hearsay, so it will be good to know – from the horse’s mouth so to speak – what exactly is happening.

WS: First of all, you know that there have always been boutique editions. It’s pretty clear for us: when we launch a watch, we determine whether it’s a boutique exclusive or not. And if we don’t comment on it, then that’s the watch is status quo [which means it will be available at authorised retailers].

So for the new watches [launched at Watches & Wonders], it’s pretty clear they are open to the whole retail network with no restrictions.

But what we did in the past is to send watches to authorised retailers, whether they had customers for it or not. If they wanted it, we supplied.

Then we realised – and it happened quite often – that one dealer in the one country has watches that he can’t sell, whereas in other countries, we have customers that couldn’t get the watches, which I think was pretty silly.

So what we changed is simple: we do not want to deliver watches of a more complicated nature to sit in inventory, [so we will not deliver] without a client who wants the watch.

SJX: Here for the sake of the readers, I should explain the traditional model of third-party distribution. A retailer visits SIHH or another watch fair at the beginning of the year, where he places orders for new launches based on expectation of customer demand, rather than having actual customers for the watches.

So a retailer can go to the fair and say, ‘I want five Double Splits, 20 perpetual calendars’. And he will then receive the watches throughout the year. But he may not necessarily be able to sell five Double Splits and 20 perpetual calendars, which means the watches remain in the store’s inventory.

WS: Exactly, it’s nothing to do with bundling, nothing to do with allocation. We simply want to know who applies for such watches. I don’t need a CV and a bank statement. All I want is a name so that we know here’s a real customer, so that we can take that into consideration for production and distribution. From a customer’s perspective, that is probably the wisest move, and something we should have done that a lot earlier.

SJX: I gather what you describe is a method of removing inefficiencies in distribution [for complicated watches]. A retailer who asks for a Double Split will have somebody who wants to buy a Double Split. And what you’re also saying is there is no requirement as to how the retailer sells the Double Split. A client doesn’t have to buy 20 other watches to get the Double Split.

WS: No, as a matter of fact I don’t want that. In the peak days, that was exactly what led us into overstuffing certain point of sales with watches, creating problems in sell-out. As I said, we rather produce too few watches, so the worst thing we can do now is to send the few watches to points-of-sale that can’t sell them.

[Editor’s note: In the run-up to the financial crisis of 2007-2008, it was known within the industry that Lange was dedicating a large proportion of its production to highly complicated watches, which led to a glut of such watches once the crisis hit, particularly in the United States.]

A memory of bygone times, the Lange booth at SIHH 2018 when the first Triple Split was launched

SJX: I am guessing that right now, because of the pandemic, this disparity in geographical demand and supply has become more pronounced because some countries have shops open and business booming, while others are just not working out. But everyone everywhere wants an Odysseus.

WS: At the moment I think about 65% of our points-of-sale are open, which still means that 35% are closed. So yes, there are certain countries where you don’t feel the pandemic anymore – you probably live in one of them – and there is a stronger appetite there [for our watches].

For us, it’s not about the fairness because that doesn’t exist in the business world. It’s about where our customers are. How do we get the watch to the customer in the most seamless way?

And to speak specifically about the Odysseus – and it doesn’t really matter whether we talk steel or white gold, because the challenge is for both of them.

People tend to forget that we only launched the Odysseus on 24 October 2019, then we launched the white gold watch in April 2020.

Please, just remember what happened in between. The whole industry was shut down for a month, and the demand for these watches is gigantic compared to what we are able to produce, so there is no chance to [distribute it] in a traditional way.

At the moment, we just ensure – with some good success so far – that these watches go to people that we know, who have not been known for selling these watches quickly. I know that a few thousand people want the watch because they know that they can sell it tomorrow for twice or triple the price.

If you go to your authorised retailer, and you get on its waiting list, you will wait – and I can only apologise for it. You just have to be patient, because I cannot move all my capacity to the Odysseus.

We want to have a balanced product portfolio. We still have strong demand for Lange 1, 1815, Zeitwerk, and Datograph, but I only have the capacity to do 5,000, maybe five-and-a-half thousand, watches a year. I know it will take time for us to fulfil the demand for the Odysseus.

SJX: I remember when the Odysseus was launched, we spoke in the boutique and you mentioned that production of the Odysseus would remain a couple of hundred per year, regardless of how many people wanted one to prevent it from becoming the majority of output.

WS: I definitely will avoid that. That’s why demand is far outstripping supply. And again, I hope that everybody accepts my apology, because I really mean it when I say that I don’t want to upset people. But if you deal with something limited as our watches, you automatically upset people when you create something desirable.

SJX: I think it matters that Odysseus is not going to make up a greater proportion of output, since the brand is about more than the sports watch. But with the demand for the Odysseus, does that mean you’ll start with other models in steel?

WS: I think steel throughout the range is quite poisonous [for a brand like A. Lange & Söhne]. Steel is good as an exception. Steel is good if it’s built for purpose.

But why would we build a dress watch in steel when traditionally we are known for building these watches in precious metal? We are pretty clear we keep steel for the Odysseus family, but we don’t have a steel family.

SJX: You mentioned something that is worth going into – is any official policy in how the brand allocates the Odysseus?

WS: It’s pretty easy. If you’re a known customer at the boutique, you put your name on the waitlist and as soon as it gets to you, you’re done.

If you’re unknown to us, we will check as far as possible if we should supply a watch to you. So if you are a first-time buyer to us with no known history, it will become rather difficult to buy the watch.

But let I share something with you: a little collector panel [took place about two months ago] where we discussed A. Lange & Söhne. Some of these people were A. Lange & Söhne collectors and some of them were just watch collectors, but I believe everybody wanted the Odysseus.

I asked a simple question of the ten people, “Which of you already have an Odysseus?” Five raised their hands.

Taking into consideration that the Odysseus has only been in the market for 15 months, our allocation system is working quite well because the five who are A. Lange & Söhne collectors already have the watch.

Patience is a virtue

SJX: The strategy makes sense to me, and I’m sure also for people who understand the industry. If I go to Ferrari today and ask for a Monza or some other limited edition, they are not going to sell me one, regardless of how much money I have.

I predict the new launches this year will probably be quite desirable, well, maybe not as much as the steel Odysseus, but more people will want them than you will produce. Are you applying the same policy for these watches, that they go to existing clients who you know well?

WS: For the Triple Split, for sure [only to existing clients due to the limitation and demand]. I don’t want to oversupply the Triple Split to one store, and in another there are good customers crying to get it.

With the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar [limited edition in white gold] – the watches go into the whole authorised-retailer network. So I hope that our dealers know their customer, which customer has strong purchase history, and so on. The same system applies for our boutiques, and I think good retailers will do exactly the same.

The Lange 1 Moon Phase is different, because at its price point, we want to see it in a window in the shop. The aventurine looks great, but comes with some production restrictions, because the dial is a delicate little glass thing with a tendency to break.

Still, I am convinced that this watch will be hugely successful, so I am afraid we probably won’t see it too often in a shop because it will go in and out.

Circa 2020, but still a hot seller

SJX: You have great watches and great demand, but you have said several times in the past – you don’t plan to increase Lange’s production substantially. Is that still true?

WS: I wish I could, but I can’t. That’s a simple fact. Without the pandemic restrictions, we may be able to improve efficiency. But to significantly increase our capacity we need to hire already-skilled people, or we need to train very dedicated people to become skilled people. Both take a matter of years and not a question of ramping up production tomorrow. There’s no [quicker route] because of the way we do the things. And if I change how we do things, it would be very short sighted.

SJX: Thank you for explaining all of this clearly. I think we now have a better grasp of the whats and whys.

WS: And people will still complain, but again, I’m not here to please everybody, because I can’t, not with 5,000 watches. Probably not even with 10,000 watches.

At the moment, we see a strong rise in the demand for Lange across the range. And we also see the impact of our strategy on resale values of a lot of older models. What we are doing is great for old customers, present customers, and future customers.

My job is simple – make sure that A. Lange & Söhne stays vital, vibrant. And with these hot watches, that is exactly what’s happening.

One of the most interesting new releases from Montblanc at Watches & Wonders 2021 is the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon, a technically impressive movement fused with a sparkly aventurine-glass dial. It’s equipped with a larger-than-usual balance wheel positioned above the dial, seemingly suspended but actually part of the tourbillon regulator.

Initial thoughts

Introduced at SIHH 2018, the Suspended Exo Tourbillon movement was most recently seen in an open-worked variant unveiled last year. Despite not being new in terms of mechanics, the new Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon is different enough from its predecessors – and still powered by the same fine movement.

Very much living up to the Star Legacy model name, the aventurine-glass is restrained and modern, especially when combined with the white gold case, giving it a different look from the earlier models that were in rose gold.

Typical of Montblanc’s higher-end watches made at the former Minerva manufacture in Villeret – as opposed to its more affordable timepieces, manufactured at the main facility in Le Locle – the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon is remarkably well-finished. Worlds apart from Montblanc’s entry-level tourbillon in terms of movement decoration, the movement is also more traditionally finished than comparably priced alternatives such as the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon.

However, because the movement was derived from the pocket watch calibres developed by Minerva in the 20th century, it results in a rather large, 44.8 mm watch, which undermines the otherwise elegant nature of the design.

Priced at €109,000, the new Suspended Exo Tourbillon is actually slightly cheaper than the previous pink iteration, despite the industry norm of pricing white gold models higher. Although it’s pricey compared to Montblanc’s more ordinary offerings, the Suspended Exo Tourbillon is arguably good value considering the quality.

Suspended action

According to Montblanc, the dial of the Suspended Exo Tourbillon is comprised of eight different components, each of which has been hand-finished with techniques of traditional watchmaking.

Firstly, the 18k white gold dial base is covered in aventurine glass – which contains metallic inclusions that create its distinctive sparkle –  and then set with chapter rings and a bridge of white gold which are finished with circular graining and polished, bevelled edges. Also made of white gold, the sub-dial for the time at 12 o’clock is positioned right above the tourbillon, creating symmetry that’s pleasing to the eye.

In other words, it’s an extremely detailed dial with tons of depth that features most of watchmaking’s most beloved techniques.

However, the main attraction is still the suspended, extra-large 14.5 mm balance wheel – held in place by a single steel cock, instead of a more conventional bridge – that sits just above the one-minute tourbillon regulator.

Being an “Exo” tourbillon, the tourbillon cage sits below the balance wheel – more like a platform than a carriage – allowing it to be minimal in size, which increases the efficiency of the movement since less energy is required to rotate it. And the smaller-than-usual tourbillon cage also means the size of the balance can be maximised, raising its inertia and thus timekeeping stability.

The watch is powered by the cal. MB M16.68, a large, hand-wound movement that’s derived from the 16-ligne Minerva chronograph movement originally developed for pocket stop watches.

In true Minerva style, the MB M16.68 is decorated with artisanal finishing – Côtes de Genève on the German silver bridges that also have polished, bevelled edges, lustrous spiralling on the barrel ratchet wheel, as well as two jewels in chatons. And as is standard practice for Minerva movements, its arrowhead logo has been incorporated into the calibre, here in the steel winding click.

Key Facts and Price

Montblanc Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Limited Edition
Ref. 127767

Diameter: 44.8 mm
Thickness: 15.03 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: MB M16.68
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, tourbillon
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 18,800 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Alligator with 18k white gold folding clasp

Limited edition: 18 pieces
Availability: On request, only at boutiques
Price: €109,000

For more, visit Montblanc.com.

Conceived as an everyday watch with a modern aesthetic, the Hermès H08 is the latest mechanical watch for men from the Parisian leather goods maker. As is now the norm for Hermès, the H08 is a proper mechanical watch that’s powered by an automatic calibre made by respected movement maker Vaucher, while also having its own custom typography created specifically for the H08 (just as it was for the Slim d’Hermès wristwatch).

Slightly sporty in design, the H08 has a cushion-shaped case that’s available in titanium or an unusual graphene composite. And the titanium version is also available with a matching bracelet that is notably well executed.

Initial thoughts

I played with the various versions of the watch, and I like it. They are well designed, well made, and importantly, well priced.

The case is smartly finished with a variety of contrasting textures, while also having a screw-down crown and 100 m water resistance. And it contains a Vaucher movement, which is an automatic assurance of quality in terms of construction, and finishing is sufficient at the very least. And it’s worth pointing out that the titanium version is also available on a bracelet that is done surprisingly well for a watch of this price.

From left: Graphene composite, titanium, and DLC-coated titanium

That said, the fact that it comes from Hermès as opposed to an established watchmaker will no doubt be a major hindrance for a watch enthusiast. But I can say with certainty that the H08 is a well executed watch.

Priced at about US$6,000 on the bracelet – which is the best version in my opinion – the H08 is a value proposition considering the quality of the case and movement. However, the graphene composite version is pricey at US$8,900, and probably not worth the upgrade regardless of the lightweight case.

Sporting-inspired

Described by Hermès as having a “sporting-inspired design”, the H08 is a reasonably sized 39 mm by 39 mm – and a slim 10.96 mm high – which creates a relatively compact footprint on the wrist. And with a 100 m water-resistance rating, the H08 is also competent enough for sporty activities.

The case is a cushion-shaped, and finished with a good degree of detail. The bezel is radially brushed, with an innermost raised lip that’s mirror polished, while the case is linearly brushed on the titanium model.

The titanium model is also available with a titanium bracelet that echoes the style of the case well, being made up of brushed outer links with a rounded, polished centre link.

The case is stamped and then finished

The titanium case is available with a black DLC coating (bottom left), or natural titanium

The composite version is similar, but substantially more lightweight. Its case is made of a composite that includes graphene, a form of carbon that is favoured for its strength and lightness. While the case middle is composite, the bezel is ceramic that’s finished with radial brushing, and mirror polishing on its innermost, raised lip.

Similarly, the dial is made up of a variety of textures and layers. Its surface is finished with a granular texture, and segmented by a chapter ring that is brushed. And all of the hour numerals are applied.

Among panels discussions that took place Watches & Wonders 2021 was the session about the familiar buzzword – innovation. As wth the rest of the event’s broadcasts, the panel happened with all of the participants taking part remotely from around the world, but it still  managed to be efficient, relevant, and lively.

What did we learn from it? 

As a starting point, a quick overview of watchmaking’s history was essential. William Rohr, a long-time collector who’s behind startup Massena Lab, summed it up: “There is a tradition of innovation in watchmaking, whether for the precision of timekeeping, improved legibility or other aspects, it is still very much alive in the industry.”

“Horology today is much more about passion and emotions than functionality per se,” added Patrick Tacq, a Belgian collector with diverse tastes, “Nonetheless, innovation is key to the industry for its survival in the 21st century and to keep the next generation involved in mechanical watchmaking.”

The studio with moderator Mélanie Freymond (far right), Pascal Ravessoud of the FHH (far left), and author Benjamin Teisseire

Stay relevant

Precision timekeeping obviously does not need a mechanical watch, but many other aspects of the timekeeping experience can be improved through innovation.

“Our goal at Ressence is to use technology to bring better ergonomics to our mechanical watches in order to create an even deeper relation between the customer and his watch,” emphasised Benoit Mintiens, founder of Ressence. His approach has taken the mechanical watch into an entirely new arena as demonstrated by the Ressence Type 2 e-Crown, which is solar powered and set via a smartphone app, but still powered by a mechanical movement.

At the other end of the spectrum are watches that are replicas of past designs, a major trend in today’s market but unimaginative for some of the panellists. “Watchmaking needs to innovate, to use technology in order to bring improvements to the customer,” said Ariel Adams, founder of online watch magazine ABlogtoWatch, who added that brands have to understand what the expectations of their customers are and then innovate to fulfil these needs.

“If we just try to respect our heritage [and not innovating], we will lose everyone,” noted Antoine Pin, head of Bulgari’s watch division.

The Ressence Type 2 e-Crown

Adaptation and education

Innovation is even more essential as the world evolves. Mechanical watches need to offer utility to the customers, even if watches themselves have transformed into aspirational, as opposed to functional, products.

“Dreams are key to mechanical watchmaking,” said Mr Adams, “But innovators are dreamers. They bring improvements to consumers that they did not even know they wanted.”

That makes innovation useful, but it still falls to the brands themselves to educate the customer about the advantages of these innovations. Magnetism-resistant movements, for instance, are a useful innovation that few consumers are aware of, and it took several years for watch brands to spread the message sufficiently such that at least watch enthusiasts now realise its importance.

Ariel Adams (left), and Melanie Freymond

Mr Pin illustrated the notion of how innovation proliferates with Bulgari’s quest for thinness in its movements: “Through pursuing miniaturisation, we eventually came to address the question of energy transmission, of precision and of power reserve. We therefore met other brands where innovation was achieved. In the end, it develops our constant capacity to improve ourselves across the board”. 

Bulgari’s innovation

The cost of innovation

Often overlooked and rarely understood by watch buyers is the high cost of innovation.

Obviously, research and development is expensive, typically requiring years to come to market and realise a return on investment. As Mr Mintiens explained, “For us, every watch is like reinventing the wheel, so costs are extremely high.”

One of the most interesting outcome of this panel was the possibility of an open-source approach to innovation for the whole industry. “Open-source is largely innovators and entrepreneurs who are not scared of sharing because they gain more from sharing than what they give away,” said Mr Pin, “We must remember we are a small industry. It is getting more and more complex to move forward. We have a lot to gain from this open source approach because it frees creativity.”

Indeed, open-sourcing of technology would be the greatest innovation for the industry.

From left: Antoine Pin of Bulgari, Benoit Mintiens of Ressence, William Rohr of Massena Lab, Patrick Tacq, and Ariel Adams of ABlogtoWatch

Innovation as a driver of sales?

The consensus was clear – definitely. Hublot with materials, Bulgari or Piaget with ultra-thin movements, Ulysse Nardin with silicon regulating organs, Ressence and its hybrid watchmaking – the examples of innovation are countless, all serving to show that innovation encourages enthusiasts to buy watches.

Modern watchmaking thrives by getting the balance right between innovation and emotion. So the key to useful innovation is to celebrate watchmaking’s history while making it relevant to the contemporary buyer, making innovation part of the emotional dimension of watchmaking and triggering the buying decision for the consumer. This how an age-old industry can remain relevant while being aspirational.

Marking its 90th anniversary this year, the Reverso is the only truly successful reversible wristwatch. Jaeger-LeCoultre has long utilised the twin sides of the Reverso case for complications, and now for the first time equips the flip side with a digital hour display.

The Reverso Tribute Nonantième – nonantième is French for “ninetieth” – has a conventional front, but an unusual reverse decorated in blue lacquer that features a “semi-jumping hour”, disc minutes, along with a day and night display.

Front and back

Initial thoughts

From the front the Nonantième is hard to distinguish from other Reversos, but from the back it is immediately interesting with its digital hour and disc-type minutes. The reverse face is attractive and certainly unique, but the movement inside is more familiar.

Though the cal. 826 is new, it is evidently derived from the cal. 853/854 in the various Reverso Duoface models, being similar in principle but different in indications. It’s mechanically novel, though the fact that the hour display is “semi jumping” rather than actual jumping is regrettable.

The reverse display with digital hours

Rectangular (or even tonneau) watches usually lose their elegance beyond a certain size, and the Nonantième is close to the limit. At 49.4 mm by 29.9 mm, the Nonantième is a big watch, identical in size to other extra-large models in the Reverso line up, making it suited for larger wrists.

At a bit over US$40,000, the Nonantième feels pricey given that the Reverso Duoface models start at about US$23,000, rising to US$25,000 for the top-of-the-line Tribute Calendar.

Moon and stars

Designed in the current house style for the Reverso – namely dauphine hands and baton markers – the Nonantième also incorporates a celestial theme in its Art Deco-inspired design.

Showing the time, date, and age of the moon, the front has a moon phase display with a disc bearing a textured moon that’s modelled on the actual lunar surface.

And on the reverse, the time display is encircled by a figure-of-eight bridge that’s engraved with stars and lacquered in blue.

Notably, the reverse dial features a “semi-jumping hour”, rather than an actual jumping hour that jumps instantaneously. Below the hours is a day and night display on a blue disc bearing a sun and moon motif, and at the base, the minutes indication on a disc.

The bridge for the reverse display

The watch is powered by the cal. 826AA, a hand-wind movement with a 42-hour power reserve. It is essentially the reliable cal. 822 – the workhorse Reverso movement for decades – but modified to incorporate the displays on both faces.

Key facts and price

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième
Ref. Q711252J

Diameter: 49.4 mm by 29.9 mm
Height: 11.72 mm
Material: 18k pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 826
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, big date, and moon phase on the front; semi-jumping hours, minutes, and day-night indicator on the reverse
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Hand wind
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Alligator with gold pin buckle

Limited edition: 190 pieces
Availability: Only at boutiques
Price: US$40,500; €38,700; or 58,500 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Jaeger-lecoultre.com.

Aside from the flurry of novelties unveiled during the purely-digital Watches & Wonders 2021 (W&W), discussion panels took place every day, each conceived to tackle some of the most salient issues facing the luxury-watch industry. We bring you a roundup of the panel that took place on April 10 on a key topic for brands and customers alike: the client experience.

Despite the predominantly digital set up, W&W managed to create a truly interactive debate with a mix of participants on site in Geneva, as well as speakers dialling in remotely, all converging to discuss the same topic. Here are the key findings that emerged.

The panel with Beatrice Goasglas of TAG Heuer on site with moderator Mélanie Freymond, and the other panellists on screen

Client experience in the digital era

The client experience is a central theme for luxury brands, which are all trying to go above and beyond to create an encounter that matches the quality embodies by the products that they make. Watchmakers already started down that path several years ago with increasingly elaborate boutiques, but the development of digital tools and now the pandemic have overturned how brands conceive the whole of the client experience.

As Beatrice Goasglas, Vice-President for Digital & Customer Experience at TAG Heuer, noted, “Digitalisation is an opportunity, even a blessing, for brands and maisons to engage even more with their final customers.”

Indeed, especially within the context of the pandemic, digital tools have played an essential role in enabling brands to stay in contact with their customers. The pandemic has brought along with it a finer understanding of the importance of digital touchpoints – these enable brands to speak not only to a large number of people but also to communicate “one-on-one” with potential clients. 

IWC chief executive Chris Grainger-Herr acknowledged this evolution and added, “Digital innovation opened many more options to engage with the customer, but at the same time it showed very clearly that you have to be able to link to something physical, tangible, and personal to make these connections between people and brand real.”

Coming from a purely digital environment, Matt Bowling, chief executive of pre-owned watch seller Watchfinder, tempered the assertion, “Indeed we see that for some [clients] the physical dimension is important, but not for everyone. Ultimately, we leave the choice to the customer to choose which way they want to engage with us. The key is to make sure the experience they have is consistent throughout and exceeds their expectation.”

The recent IWC Tribute to 3705 limited edition that was sold almost exclusively on IWC’s online store

Connecting the dots

The acceleration of digitalisation is now obvious, but these changes have been under way for four to five years. The key to success for a brand, according to David Hurley, Executive Vice-President at Watches of Switzerland USA (WoS), is “connecting all the dots between online and offline to create the most personalised experience. We still have a lot to learn on how we can perfect that approach.”

Guillaume Jonglez, Retail Strategy Senior Director EMEA at software giant Oracle, agreed while adding, “the situation became much more complex for the luxury industry as the touchpoints with customers have multiplied. The technology should enable brands to make the experience totally seamless and consistent whatever the channel used.”

The pandemic, it seems, has made brands realise how a customer-centric approach is essential and how technology can help. It has also showed very clearly that the human aspect of the relationship is key in engaging the final customer – even if through a digital tool.

From left: Chris Grainger-Herr, Matt Bowling, David Hurley, and Guillaume Jonglez

What do customers gain from engaging with the brand? Are they looking for a totally immersive experience with a physical store enhanced by digital tools as IWC offers in their new flagship boutique in Zurich? Or do they simply want the product delivered at home as Watchfinder or WoS now offer?

Brands have to be ready for both in today’s world. And they have to “multiply the engagement points through apps, sessions on [virtual-discussion app Clubhouse], social media in order to create an entire immersive universe where clients can connect with the brand on many more levels”, as IWC’s Mr Grainger-Herr put it.

The end of brick and mortar?

This was one of the most salient question discussed during the panel. Surprisingly, there was a general consensus: the participants all recognised that physical boutiques are becoming hubs in an omni-channel environment where reach and quality of contact with the customer is enhanced.

That was confirmed by Mr Hurley of W0S who explained, “the most successful launches that were made this year were through stores in SoHo [in New York City] with a strong digital support. With the upcoming reopening in the UK for example, we have thousands of appointments already made: it shows customers still want that physical dimension of the products”.

Indeed, after one year of restrictions on movement, workplaces, and social gatherings, the need for physical contact is growing stronger everywhere. Humans are social animals – that has been made clear.

WoS in New York’s SoHo

“The real question is what is the purpose of digital? How does it serve the brand’s values and the customers’ needs? It is going to be different for each brand”, as Mr Jonglez of Oracle emphasised.

This is what “phygital” will be in the future: the right balance between physical and digital. Each brand has to find its own answers that align with its core values. The client experience is going to be a mix of all these new tools that enable the brands to be more creative than ever.

Client experience has been and remains a critical issue for every business, even more so for the luxury industry, and in particular for watchmaking. The pandemic has accelerated changes that were already on the way, namely the digitalisation that multiplies customer contact points. But it has also forced the industry to become be more agile than before, forcing creativity in using digital channels to improve the customer experience.

Never waste a good crisis, as the saying goes, and it seems the watch industry has taken the message to heart on many levels, and the client experience is one of them.

]]> https://watchesbysjx.com/2021/04/bulgari-octo-finissimo-perpetual-calendar.html Tue, 13 Apr 2021 11:30:04 +0000 https://watchesbysjx.com/?p=110883 Having notched up records for the thinnest watch in several categories – including tourbillon, chronograph as well as minute repeater – Bulgari is continuing with the perpetual calendar. The Italian jeweller now claims another record for thinness – its seventh – with the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar. Taking the mantle from the Audemars Piguet Royal […]]]>

Having notched up records for the thinnest watch in several categories – including tourbillon, chronograph as well as minute repeater – Bulgari is continuing with the perpetual calendar. The Italian jeweller now claims another record for thinness – its seventh – with the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar.

Taking the mantle from the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, the new Octo perpetual calendar is just 5.8 mm in its entirety – with a movement only 2.75 mm high. It’ll be offered in the traditional livery of the Octo Finissimo of sandblasted titanium, but unusually also in platinum with an alligator strap.

Platinum (left), and titanium

Initial thoughts

There’s no doubt that Bulgari is perhaps the best at ultra-thin watches – its titles for the thinnest watch in seven categories are testament to that.

Yet the brand doesn’t simply rely on its record-setting thinness as a gimmick. Most of its ultra-thin watches are interesting beyond the slimness.

The Octo design in its own right is striking. And the perpetual calendar has been executed in a symmetrical, sensible manner. Though the dial is somewhat crowded, it remains legible thanks to the large sub-dials and minimalist aesthetic. It’s a well-designed watch and perhaps the most stylish perpetual calendar on the market.

The calendar includes a retrograde date in an arc on the upper half of the dial, with the day and month just below, and the leap year in a tiny display at the base

Between the two, I’m leaning towards the titanium version; I very much prefer the Octo Finissimo on a bracelet. The angular, slim bracelet complements the faceted design of the case well. I also like the subtlety of the sandblasted finish, which endows the watch with a sleek, sporty feel. And it also costs substantially less than the platinum model, while arguably offering a stronger, more original look.

Priced at US$59,000 in titanium, the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar represents value for money. Not as good value as some of the other Octo Finissimo models – especially the chronograph that costs a bit under US$18,000 – but a relative bargain against its rivals. In comparison, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin costs almost triple, albeit in titanium with a platinum bezel.

Stylishly svelte

The Octo perpetual calendar is an astounding 5.8 mm high – half a millimetre thinner than the previous record-holder from Audemars Piguet.

The titanium variant is paired with a matching sandblasted titanium dial, while the platinum model is paired with a radially-brushed dial in bright, metallic blue.

The dial finishes continue on the respective cases. The titanium model has a clean sandblasting throughout, while the platinum version has a more conventional brushed finished in the vein of many luxury-sports watches in precious metals.

Instead of the usual date window, the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar features a retrograde date, which Bulgari says was a necessity in order to preserve its slim profile.

Given the flatness of the dial, a retrograde date preserves its unbroken expanse, better fitting the aesthetic of the watch better than a traditional date window.

The case features three recessed buttons on its sides – one for setting the retrograde date, another for the month, and the last for the day. As a perpetual calendar, it requires no adjustment until the year 2100.

Ultra-thin movement

The thinness of the watch is thanks to the BVL 305. Though a newly developed calibre, it shares its foundations with the BVL 138 found in the time-only Octo Finissimo – both movements look almost identical through the exhibition back.

The complexity of the BVL 305 lies under the dial, where the perpetual calendar mechanism has been integrated as much as possible into the movement, instead of being a discrete module as is the norm for most perpetual calendars.

As is tradition for the movements in the various Octo Finissimo models, the BVL 305 utilises a micro-rotor to avoid the thickness of a full rotor. And despite being ultra slim and highly complicated, it still manages a handy 60 hours of power reserve.

The under-dial view revealing much of the calendar mechanism

Key facts and price

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar
Ref. 103200 (titanium)
Ref. 103463 (platinum)

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 5.8 mm
Material: Titanium or platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: BVL 305
Functions: Hours, minutes, and perpetual calendar with retrograde date, day, month, and retrograde leap year
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet with folding clasp or alligator strap with platinum pin buckle

Availability: From Bulgari online shop, boutiques, and retailers
Price: US$59,000 (titanium), US$89,000 (platinum)

For more, visit bulgari.com.

Though now often overlooked in favour of a luxury-sports watch, the Calatrava is perhaps the quintessential Patek Philippe – it was introduced in 1932 and named after the brand’s emblem – possessing a diversity of designs that all share an elegant simplicity.

Patek Philippe’s second instalment of new watches at Watches & Wonders 2021 focus on fine, sophisticated wristwatches – it also just announced a striking new perpetual calendar – and naturally encompasses the Calatrava, which sees the addition of the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” ref. 6119.

A tribute to well-known Calatrava models such as the ref. 3919 and its successor, the ref. 5119, the ref. 6119 blends several signature elements of past designs in a larger case to create a more contemporary guise that’s available in rose or white gold. Importantly, the ref. 6119 is powered by the newly-developed, hand-wind cal. 30-255 PS, a large, thin movement with twin barrels – and an impressively high moment of inertia for the balance wheel.

The cal. 30-255 PS

Initial thoughts

I’ve always been a fan of the Calatrava, especially variants with a hinged, “hunter” back like the ref. 5227. Best described as fine watches for gentlemen, they typify Patek Philippe’s traditional and refined approach to watchmaking.

But the cases of previous generations of the Calatrava were relatively small – the ref. 3919 was 33 mm, while the ref. 5119 had a 36 mm case. And more recent models, like the 40 mm ref. 6007 introduced last year, tended to be more casual in style, maybe too informal for a Calatrava.

In comparison, the ref. 6119 hits the sweet spot. The case is 39 mm, bigger but still refined enough to still be considered an elegant dress watch.

My vote goes towards the white gold model.

Between the two, I’d go for the white gold model; it is understated with its vertically-brushed grey dial, and feels more modern than the rose gold version. In the launch announcement, Patek Philippe describes the ref. 6119 as a model that “reflects the changing preferences of our era” – the white gold model is definitely the more contemporary look.

Priced at US$29,570 (or 39,000 Singapore dollars), the ref. 6119 is fairly affordable compared to the rest of Patek Philippe’s catalogue. On it face, the ref. 6119 is pricier than the competition. The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony costs US$21,500, while the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin is US$14,800.

That being said, the ref. 6119 is superior in its movement, which is finer and arguably higher spec than the competition. And then there’s the fact that it is perhaps the best-looking, while also boasting the most history.

The ref. 6119 in rose and white gold

Contemporary Calatrava

As its name suggests, the ref. 6119 features a Clous de Paris, or hobnail, bezel like that found on the ref. 3919 and ref. 5119. Some of a trademark feature on Patek Philippe watches of the 1980s and 1990s, the hobnail bezel is relatively uncommon today but eminently striking, elevating the decoration of the case without being over the top. The ref. 6119’s bezel has a broader, sloping profile, giving it greater wrist presence.

Intricately machined hobnails

While the dial is restrained in style, it is made up of many thoughtful details. The key element that gives it a more modern appearance is the railroad minute track on the outer circumference. It’s a simple printed track, but enhanced by applied gold spheres for the minute five markers.

The applied “obus” hour markers are solid gold and facetted on four sides, allowing them to catch the light nicely. In addition, dauphine hands have three facets lengthwise, giving them a more prominent look as compared to the slender, flat leaf hands found on past models.

The faceted “obus” markers and tri-facetted hands

And there’s also plenty of texture. On the white gold model, the dial finished in a pronounced vertically brushing, while the sub-seconds dial is stamped with a concentric pattern and divided into quarters with crosshairs, bringing to mind “sector” dials of vintage watches.

The rose gold version has a more classical grained finish that extends into the seconds register, which is ringed in rose gold to match the case.

The case design draws on the original Calatrava ref. 96 of 1932, with curved, tapered lugs instead of the straight lugs on the refs. 3919 and 5119. These give the watch a slightly larger footprint, giving it more presence without having to grow the case diameter too much. Despite the larger case, the ref. 6119 remains svelte at just 8.08 mm high, making it a bona fide dress watch.

The slim profile is thanks to the new, in-house cal. 30-255 PS.

Although it is significantly wider than the cal. 215 PS found in the refs. 3919 and 5119 that was the de facto movement in hand-wind Calatrava models for decades, the cal. 30-255 PS retains the same thickness of 2.5 mm.

Several aspects of a traditional movement construction were reconfigured to help with the thinness. One is a “central pinion without a wheel plate that meshes with the center wheel via an intermediate wheel” – essentially a more streamlined arrangement of the gears – and another are the crown and ratchet wheels that sit under the barrel bridge instead of over.

The manual-winding movement boasts 65 hours of power reserve, a stark improvement over the 44 hours of the cal. 215 PS.

It does that with twin barrels that unwind in parallel, or at the same time. The double, parallel barrels increase the torque of the movement substantially: the balance wheel has the highest moment of inertia amongst its 4 Hz movements according to Patek Philippe. In other words, it has excellent HDF.

This improves the stability of its beat rate – meaning better timekeeping regardless of external factors like shock – and also allows for easier regulation. And like all movements certified with the Patek Philippe Seal, the cal. 30-255 PS is rated to an impressive -3/+2 accuracy per day.

Notably, the cal. 30-255 PS also appears slightly better finished than its predecessors, showing the usual Cotes de Geneve and perlage, but also improved details like the bevels of the bridges that incorporate sharp external angles.

The balance wheel and twin bridges for the going train

The keyless works under the dial

Key facts and price

Patek Philippe Calatrava “Clous de Paris”
Ref. 6119G-001 (white gold)
Ref. 6119R-001 (rose gold)

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 8.08 mm
Material: 18k white or rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 30-255 PS
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Hand wind
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Alligator with gold pin buckle

Availability: Now at retailers
Price: US$29,570; CHF25,000; or 39,000 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Patek.com.