Nearly fifty years since Japanese explorer Naomi Uemura (1941-1984) scaled several of the world’s tallest mountains – and crossed Greenland on a dog sledge with a Seiko on his wrist – Seiko introduces the Prospex 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation “The Naomi Uemura Limited Edition” (SLA069).

Inspired by the ref. 6105 “Captain Willard” that accompanied Uemura on his solo dog sledge run from Greenland to Alaska in 1976, the SLA069 has a mountain-motif dial and blue coating on the bezel and crown.

Initial thoughts

This limited edition makes sense philosophically since it’s a Japanese watch that pays tribute to a Japanese explorer who wore something similar on his expeditions.

The design is obviously based on the ref. 6105, a model commonly referred to as “Captain Willard” by enthusiasts after the lead character who wore one in Apocalypse Now. Seiko has done several ref. 6105 remakes in the recent past, including another Uemura edition, but the SLA069 has details that make it distinctive, like the textured dial and blue access on the case.

As a limited edition, the SLA069 is slightly priced higher than regular production “Captain Willard” divers, but not very much more, making it an appealing proposition for someone who wants a retro diver with a few modern details.

Willard style

Uemura was a legendary explorer known for feats of mountaineering and exploration before disappearing in 1984 while descending Mount Denali after reaching the summit. Best remembered for being the first person to reach the North Pole solo, Uemura also scaled five of the world’s highest peaks, including Mont Blanc and Kilimanjaro, by age 29.

The tribute to Uemura is essentially a variant of Seiko’s “Captain Willard” remake that’s based on the ref. 6105 of 1970. It retains same design but dresses it up with a dial featuring the Mont Blanc mountain range that was created with pressing and etching.

Unlike previous variants of the “Captain Willard”, the SLA069 has a 42 mm case, but it preserves the original form of the ref. 6105 along with the crown at four. In addition, the case has been finished with “super-hard coating” that is scratch resistant according to Seiko.

Also unique to this edition are the blue-hued bezel and crown

The SLA069 is powered by the cal. 8L35, an automatic movement that shares the basic architecture of the Grand Seiko cal. 9S55. The cal. 8L35, however, was developed primarily to equip Prospex dive watches.

The 8L35

Key Facts and Price

Seiko Prospex 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation “The Naomi Uemura Limited Edition”
Ref. SLA069

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 13 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. 8L35
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet

Limited edition: 500 pieces
Availability: Starting May 2023 at Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: US$2,900

For more, visit seikowatches.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Seiko.

Correction March 10, 2023: The inspiration of the SLA069 is the ref. 6105 “Captain Willard”, rather than the “Turtle” as stated in an earlier version of the story.

Responsible for some of the most reliable and well-priced diver watches on the market, Seiko is synonymous with the genre. The Japanese watchmaker continues to expand its dive watch offerings, but now with a second time zone complication.

A “modern reinterpretation” of its Hi-Beat 300 m dive watch from 1968, the Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT is the first mechanical dual-time zone dive watch in Seiko’s Prospex sports watch collection.

The SPB383

Initial thoughts

Arguably the collection offering the best value in Seiko’s line-up, Prospex is going slightly upscale with the second time zone movement, while maintaining its strong price-performance ratio.

The standout among the new models is the SPB381 with its deep green dial. While the limited edition SPB385 with its textured, “ice blue” dial is undoubtedly fancier, the SPB381 is clean and functional but appealing with its palette.

The SPB381

Though it is a two-time zone watch, the Diver’s GMT is still primarily a dive watch. So it retains the traditional elapsed time bezel and clever places the 24-hour scale on the flange around the dial.

That said, the Diver’s GMT is more accurately a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a true GMT that has an adjustable local-time hour hand (as found in pricier Grand Seiko models). This means a few extra steps when setting the time for a change in time zones, though it is a perfectly acceptable compromise considering the price.

At US$1,500 for the standard models and US$1,700 for the limited edition, the Diver’s GMT sits in a sweet spot. They are affordable in absolute terms, but also well positioned relative to Seiko’s other watches, offering much better fit and finish than the entry-level Seiko 5 Sports GMT for instance.

A practical retro diver

The Diver’s GMT is modelled on the Seiko Hi-Beat 300 m diver ref. 6159-7001 that was released in 1968. It retains the same overall design, with the exception of a relocated date window that went from three o’clock to between four and five o’clock.

The new GMT makes it debut in three distinct colourways: a pair of regular product models in green (SPB381) and black (SPB383), as well as a limited edition with an pale blue dial (SPB385) that’s part of the brand’s offerings to mark the 110th anniversary of its first watch.

The limited edition features a textured dial similar to that found in last year’s Prospex SPB333. According to Seiko, the texture is inspired by glaciers, a nod to the Japanese expeditions to the polar regions in the 1960s and 1970s, whose members were all kitted out with Seiko timekeepers.

The “ice blue” SPB385

All of three versions share the same case that’s 42 mm in diameter and 12.9 mm high. It retains the design of the 1968 original with the cushion-shaped outline and the crown at four o’clock. As is standard for Prospex dive watches, the case is equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel with a ceramic insert.

The SPB385 is delivered with an additional grey and white fabric strap woven from recycled PET bottles with a traditional technique known as ‘seichu’

The Diver’s GMT is powered by the brand-new cal. 6R54. A variant of the automatic cal. 6R35, the new calibre has been reworked to add the second time zone hand along with a slightly lengthened power reserve of 72 hours.

Because the second time zone hand is an add-on to an existing calibre, the watch has to be set to local time before adjusting the 24-hour hand to show home time. This is done with the crown in its second position; turning the crown clockwise advances the 24-hour hand while turning it counterclockwise changes the date.

The 6R54

Key Facts and Price

Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT
Ref. SPB381 (green)
Ref. SPB383 (black)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.9 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. 6R54
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and second time zone hand
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (6 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Starting June 2023 at Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: US$1,500

Key Facts and Price

Seiko Prospex Save the Ocean “Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary”
Ref. SPB385

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.9 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. 6R54
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and second time zone hand
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (6 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet, additional fabric strap

Limited edition: 4000 pieces
Availability: Starting June 2023 at Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: US$1,700

For more, visit seikowatches.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Seiko.

Popular for making artisanal dials affordable, Seiko’s Presage Craftsmanship series has been facelifted for the 110th anniversary of the brand’s first watch. The dials continue to be decorated with techniques ranging from fired enamel to Japanese lacquer, but the Presage case has been refined into an all-new design.

The restyled Presage is making its debut as a quartet of limited editions with dials in fired enamel (SPB393), traditional lacquer known as urushi (SPB395), Arita porcelain (SPB397), and translucent Shippo enamel (SPB399).

The Shippo enamel dial of the SPB399

Initial thoughts

Amongst the most affordable watches with fancy dials, the Presage Craftsmanship series has always been a good value proposition. Made with artisanal techniques typically found on pricier watches, the dials are all impressively executed especially considering the price, which starts at US$1,450 for the enamel dial SPB393 and tops out at US$2,050 for the SPB399 with a Shippo enamel dial.

While the dial work was always impressive, earlier models had cases that were simple in form and somewhat chunky. Now Seiko has solved that with a redesigned case that appears thinner and more refined. The new case style makes it debut on this quartet but given its merits will inevitably become standard for future Presage Craftsmanship models.

Due to the 6R series movements within, the new case is still large (the larger model is almost 41 mm wide and over 14 mm high) but it has been significantly refined in both style and finish. This is most obvious in the lugs, which now boast a more elegant form with a prominent polished bevel. The new case design is not only more attractive but also more suited to the dial decoration.

The new Presage watches don’t cost very much more than their predecessors, so they continue to offer good value while being more appealing, thanks in particular to the revamped case.

It’s all in the face

The limited-edition quartet are the first watches to sport the redesigned Presage case. Conceived to appear slimmer on the wrist, the new case also features more refined details, most notably slimmer lugs with a polished bevel along the outer edge.

Alongside the new case is a revamped dial. Unlike past Presage models that used either Roman numerals or baton indices, the new dials feature both in an alternating sequence. The use of alternating indices gives the dial a more modern look while complementing the sub-dials and indicators better.

The SPB393 with a white enamel dial

The quartet of limited editions is actually made up of a pair of distinct models. Each pair of models share the same case and movement but differ in terms of dial finish. The first pair is made up of the the SPB393 with a fired enamel dial and the SPB395 with an urushi dial.

Featuring the familiar red numeral at 12 o’clock – a detail taken from Seiko’s first wristwatch of 1913 – the fired enamel dial is produced by the Fuji Porcelain Enamel Co., Ltd., where a team led by veteran craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa has been supplying enamel dials for the Presage since 2016.

The SPB393

Executed in a more unusual colour of warm brown, the dial of the SPB395 is finished in traditional Japanese lacquer or urushi. Created with sap from the lacquer tree, urushi is applied to a variety of everyday objects such as bowls and chopsticks, and even samurai armour, for both decoration and protection. The urushi dials are produced in the workshop of Isshu Tamura, a lacquer artist who is also responsible for the dial of the recent Grand Seiko “First” SBGW295 in titanium.

Both the SPB393 and SPB395 have a slightly more compact case of 40.2 mm by 12.8 mm compared to the other two watches in the quartet. Both are powered by the 6R24 movement, an automatic calibre that includes a power reserve display, date, and day of the week. As a result of the triple complication, the dial has a pleasing vertical symmetry with each displayed on a fan-shaped scale.

The SPB395

With a case that is slightly larger, the SPB397 and SPB399 also feature slightly more elaborate dial decoration.

Both share the same case that is 40.6 mm wide and 14.1 mm high, while the movement is the 6R27. The movement has a power reserve display at nine and the date at six, creating an asymmetrical dial layout.

The SPB397 has a dial made of Arita porcelain, Chinaware produced in town of Arita. The very first porcelain produced in Japan was made in Arita, thanks to the clay found around the town.

The SPB397

Equally traditional and artisanal is the Shippo enamel dial of the SPB399. More widely known as Owari Shippo or Owari cloisonné, the enamelling technique was conceived in the 19th century by craftsmen who were inspired by enamelled objects imported from Holland.

The enamelled dial is the work of Ando Cloisonne Co., where Wataru Totani leads a team of enamellers who first glaze the patterned dial base with liquid enamel, then fire it in an oven to melt the enamel.

Once fired, the dial is polished to give it a reflective finish that reveals the translucency of the enamel, through which the stamped motif on the dial is visible.

The SPB399

Key Facts and Price

Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series
Ref. SPB393 (enamel)
Ref. SPB395 (urushi)

Diameter: 40.2 mm
Height: 12.8 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 6R24
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day of the week, and power reserve indicator
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Leather with folding clasp

Limited edition: 1,500 pieces each
Availability: Starting June 2023 at Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: SPB393 – US$1,450; SPB395 – US$ 1,850

Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series
Ref. SPB397 (Arita porcelain)
Ref. SPB399 (Shippo enamel)

Diameter: 40.6 mm
Height: 14.1 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 6R27
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, and power reserve indicator
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Leather with folding clasp

Limited edition: 1,500 pieces for SPB397; 800 pieces for SPB399
Availability: Starting June 2023 at Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: SPB397 – US$1,850; SPB399 – US$2,050

For more, visit seikowatches.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Seiko.

Correction March 10, 2023: The first Seiko wristwatch was made in 1913, and not 1923 as stated in an earlier version of the the story.

First conceived over two decades ago, Power Design Project was an exercise in avant-garde watch design. After a 14-year hiatus, it has returned with Rebirth, an exhibition that will run until February 19, 2023, in Tokyo’s trendy Harajuku district.

An annual affair centred on a specific theme each year, the original Power Design Project was an experimental programme spearheaded by independent industrial designer Naoto Fukasawa. Intended to inject new energy and ideas into the Seiko’s offerings, the original project invited designers, both in-house and external, to reimagine the concept of timekeeping. The project gave birth to unorthodox timepieces, including one that was a lightbulb with the filament forming the hands.

The project has been revived with a showcase of seven timepieces, each originally an iconic brand design that has been reimagined for today – hence the exhibition theme, “rebirth”. By exploring the possibilities of a watch in both design, purpose, and function, Seiko is perhaps giving us a peek into the future of its watchmaking in the decades to come.

For instance, Seiko’s famous “tuna” dive watch has been transformed into a watch for children. Presented in three colourways, blue, pink, and yellow, the “tuna” for kids is scaled down and made into robust watch for active children, echoing the purpose of the deep sea-diving original.

“Shikakuro”, a modern take on the “Monaco” chronograph from 1971

“Radiant Time” is a King Seiko with a twist – the case is made up of 20 polished facets executed with the Zaratsu technique

Power Design Project: Rebirth takes place from December 21, 2022, to February 19, 2023, at the Seiko Seed Harajuku, an exhibition space owned by the watchmaker.

It’s open to the public from 11:00 am-8:00 pm daily (with the last admission at 7:45 pm), except for Sunday and public holidays when it closes at 5:00 pm. Admission is free.

Seiko Seed Harajuku
1-14-30 Jingumae
Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

For more, visit seiko-seed.com.

While Seiko was one of the first watchmakers in the world to launch an automatic chronograph with the ref. 6139 of 1969, the complication is not as synonymous with the brand as say, dive watches. That is due in part to the brand’s sparse offerings in terms of mid- to- high-end mechanical chronographs.

But that is slowly changing. After reviving the Speedtimer two years ago, Seiko has just released the latest iteration of the model with the Prospex Speedtimer SRQ045. Benefiting from an all-black makeover, the new Speedtimer is stylish yet functional homage to the stopwatches Seiko made for the 1972 Winter Olympics in Japan.

Initial thoughts

I wasn’t too impressed by the new Speedtimer initially as it appeared way too similar to the regular-production model. But when I looked closer, I changed my mind. While the new Speedmaster is admittedly one of many retro-styled chronographs introduced by Seiko in the past few years, it’s still an attractive watch.

The stark black-and-red livery of the new Speedtimer makes for a formidable racing chronograph; in fact it looks more like sports chronograph than the standard iterations of the model, which feel a bit flat in comparison.

The attention to detail in design shows up here better than on other models. Examples of that include the scaled-down minute numerals on the dial and the pump-style pushers. I do wish, however, the seconds hand had a dash of red on its tip to complete the look.

That said, the new Speedtimer retains the same case (and cal. 8R46 movement) as its regular-production counterparts, which means the case is a chunky at over 15 mm high – it is a thick watch by any standard. Hopefully Seiko will eventually refine its chronograph movement to allow for a more compact case.

1970s styling

The new Speedtimer takes inspiration from the first Seiko stopwatch designed for winter sports. At the 1972 Winter Olympics, Seiko was appointed official timekeeper, so the brand set about developing a watch that would be legible during dark and frigid winter months. The result was a 1/10th-of-a-second stopwatch with a high-contrast black dial featuring the seconds scale highlighted in red.

An example of the stopwatch made for the 1972 Winter Olympics. Image – Seiko

This was the model for the new Speedtimer, which reproduces the dial style and even the sub-dial hands but adds a tachymeter scale to the periphery of the dial.

The case is identical to the standard models – round, steel, and measuring 42.5 mm by 15.1 mm. But unlike the regular models that have a preserve the natural steel finish, this case has a black coating that boosts scratch resistance.

The movement is still the cal. 8R48, a two-counter mechanical chronograph movement featuring a vertical clutch and column wheel. A notable feature of the movement is a two-finger hammer that resets both chronograph hands in sync every time.

Key facts and price

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph Limited Edition
Ref. SRQ045

Diameter: 40.5 mm
Height: 12.80 mm
Material: Steel with hard coating
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 8R48
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Calf leather strap with a folding clasp

Limited edition: 600 pieces
Availability: At Seiko boutiques and retailers beginning February 2023
Price: US$3,000

For more, visit seikowatches.com.

As is its habit, Seiko is marking the 110th anniversary of its first-ever wristwatch with a series of limited editions starting with the recent Presage SBP359. Now the Japanese watchmaker unveils the Prospex Save the Ocean “Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary” based on its “turtle” dive watch but featuring a patterned dial reminiscent of the popular Grand Seiko “White Birch”.

Initial thoughts

When Seiko first announced limited editions for the 110th anniversary, I was expecting a reissue of the original Laurel wristwatch, which turned out to be spot on. But as a longtime fan of Seiko dive watches, I was hoping for something based on the “Turtle” for the occasion. Well, I am happy to say that the SPB333 does not disappoint.

Though it is easily recognisable as a “Turtle”, it is clear that thought went into the styling. Its designers used the classic diver as a template for gentle experimentation and the result certainly delivers.

The dial is beautiful and certainly fancier than that on the average Seiko diver. Though ostensibly inspired by glaciers, the textured dial certainly brings to mind the popular “White Birch” pattern found on several Grand Seiko models. This level of dial decoration on a “tool” watch places the SPB333 on my Christmas wish list.

Pattern aside, I do have some bones to pick with the dial design, specifically the date window between four and five o’clock. I find date windows on Seiko divers are far better in the customary position at three o’clock as that better preserves the symmetry, particularly since the hour markers are usually oblong. Another is the fact that it is not exactly a limited edition since 5,000 pieces will be made.

As usual, the SPB333 is priced attractively at US$1,300. It is pretty much a value proposition for anyone who wants a dive watch with an impressive dial that will not break the bank.

Inspired by polar glaciers

The SPB333 takes inspiration from the glaciers of the polar regions, which were explored by Japanese expeditions in the 1960s and 1970s, all of which were equipped with Seiko timekeepers. As a result, the dial is almost entirely silver, including the hands and indices, save for the trademark pointed-baton seconds hand. And the glacier-textured dial is complemented by a grey bezel insert with a concentric patterning.

The rest of the watch is identical to the standard “Turtle”, which is in turn based on the ref. 6105 of 1968 that’s popularly referred to as the “Captain Willard” because the titular character wore it in Apocalypse Now. It’s 41 mm in diameter and 12.3 mm in height, with the cushion-shaped case having the crown at four o’clock. Notably, the brushed steel case has been finished with a “super-hard coating” that boosts scratch resistance.

As with the other Prospex models, the SPB333 is powered by the cal. 6R35, a linchpin in Seiko’s mid-tier offerings. Compared to Seiko’s entry-level movements, it has a longer-than-average power reserve of 70 hours.

The watch is accompanied by an additional grey and white fabric strap made from polyester recycled from PET bottles that’s woven with a traditional technique known as ‘seichu’

Key facts and price

Seiko Prospex Save the Ocean “Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary”
Ref. SPB333

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.3 mm
Material: Steel with super-hard coating
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: 6R35
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet, additional fabric strap

Limited edition: 5,000 pieces
Availability: Now at Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: US$1,300

For more, visit seikowatches.com.

Seiko made history when it produced the first-ever made-in-Japan wristwatch in 1913. Known as the Laurel, the 1913 wristwatch was typical of the era when pocket watches were evolving into wristwatches.

To mark the 110th anniversary of its first wristwatch, Seiko debuts the Presage Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary ref. SPB359. Featuring a fired enamel dial, the Presage 110th Anniversary is modelled on the 1913 original, right down to the case reminiscent of a pocket watch.

Initial thoughts

Seiko regularly rolls out Presage limited editions with dials ranging from porcelain to Japanese lacquer, but all share the same case style despite the diversity in dials. In contrast, the Presage 110th Anniversary is refreshingly different and unique within the Presage line-up.

Not only is the case executed in the style of an early 20th century watch, it is also more compact than the typical Presage, measuring at 37.5 mm in diameter instead of the usual 40.5 mm. That said, the new Presage is still fairly thick at over 12 mm high as a consequence of the movement inside.

Both the case design and dimensions give it a distinctly different look and feel from past Presage models. This means the anniversary edition has appeal even for someone who already owns a past Presage model.

And as expected for Seiko, the Presage 110th Anniversary is solid value with a retail price of about US$2,000.

The 1913 Laurel in the Seiko Museum

Retro styling

Entirely polished and stainless steel, the case of the Presage 110th Anniversary takes after the Laurel of 1913. It has narrow, short lugs along with an onion-shaped crown. And the deer leather strap of the new Presage is also similar to the strap found on the 1913 Laurel in the Seiko Museum.

The new Presage is fitted with a domed, “box-shaped” sapphire crystal

The dial of the Presage 110th Anniversary is fired enamel with a gently recessed centre just like the 1913 original. Made by the workshop of Mitsuru Yokosawa, who has long supplied Seiko with enamel dials for the Presage line, the dial also reproduces the numerals on the 1913 original.

But because the movement inside is the cal. 6R27, the dial has printed registers for the power reserve indicator at nine and the date at six o’clock.

A mainstay of the Presage and other mid-priced lines, the cal. 6R27 is automatic and has a 45-hour power reserve. Like Seiko’s other mid- to high-end movements, the cal. 6R27 runs at a higher frequency of 4 Hz.

Key Facts and Price

Seiko Presage Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary
Ref. SPB359

Diameter: 37.5 mm
Height: 12.6 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 6R27
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, and power reserve indicator
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Deer leather

Limited edition: 2,500 pieces
Availability: Starting January 2023 at Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: €1,900

For more, visit seikowatches.com.

Having enjoyed several years of double-digit growth in its biggest markets outside of Japan, Grand Seiko is continuing to hone a marketing and distribution strategy inspired by its Swiss peers. One of the key planks of its brand development has been to vertically integrate its sales channels, with Asia being the latest to join the mothership.

Headquartered in Singapore, Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific is a newly established entity that will take charge of sales and marketing of the brand in the region. Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific becomes the company’s third regional subsidiary, after those covering Americas and Europe, both amongst the brand’s most important markets outside of Japan.

The Grand Seiko boutique in Place Vendome, Paris

The Asia-Pacific division of Grand Seiko no doubt develop the brand along similar lines as its counterparts in Europe and the United States. The senior managers in both the Americas and Europe are Omega alumni, with the head of the American operations also being the brand’s Global Strategy Officer. Unsurprisingly, Grand Seiko has embarked on a game plan centred on brand boutiques in upscale locations as well as limited edition models, mirroring the familiar approach utilised by many of its Swiss rivals.

The newly-established Asia-Pacific operation is a joint venture between Seiko Watch Corporation and Thong Sia, the Hong Kong-based company that was the longtime Asian distributor for Grand Seiko (as well as other Seiko brands). It is chaired by Akio Naito, whose main job is President of Seiko Watch Corporation. And the company’s operations are overseen by Yoshikatsu Kawada, who is also also Executive Vice President of Seiko Watch Corporation, while the Regional Brand Director is Ida Idris-Low.

Having received a facelift in 2019, the Seiko 5 Sports collection draws on the ubiquitous and much loved “SKX” dive watch for its styling, but is lighter on features and easier on the wallet.

Now Seiko has unveiled the Seiko 5 Sports Style GMT, which looks even more like an SKX thanks to its five-link bracelet. But its key feature is actually a major function upgrade: the two-tone bezel and 24-hour hand make it a dual-time zone travel watch.

The SSK003 with a blue-and-black bezel and red GMT hand

Initial thoughts

Though similar to the base-model Seiko 5 Sports, the GMT distinguishes itself by virtue of design. It possesses the same overall look but boasts more refined stylistic details like the five-link bracelet and bezel with smart typography, which gives it a more upscale look than the standard model.

At the same time, the GMT has a bit more flair than an actual SKX diver (which is a nevertheless is a more accomplished dive watch) as a result of its dual time zone function. I like the added colour contrast between the 24-hour hand and dial, as well as the subtly two-tone bezel. And even though it has more elements due to the extra function, the design and details are restrained.

And it’s worth mentioning that while the bracelet has the same Jubilee-esque aesthetics as that of the SKX diver, it has been upgraded with solid end links, which means it should feel less dinky that the SKX bracelet.

All three versions are executed well

The only downside of the watch is that it’s not a true GMT watch. In other words, the 24-hour hand is independently adjustable, rather than the local time hour hand as in watches like the Rolex GMT-Master II or Grand Seiko GMT. This means setting the time when crossing time zones is slightly more tedious, but certainly an acceptable compromise for the price.

And the price is modest to say the least. The handsome design can be had for the competitive price of about US$500, making the GMT a strong value proposition that is almost unmatched in its price segment. With Seiko’s watches known to be robust, the GMT is the perfect watch for worry-free travel.

Affordable and functional (to a point)

While twin time zone watches are common, few of them are as affordable as the Seiko 5 Sports GMT, and even fewer are as functional. The GMT is straightforward in its legibility and utility. For example, both the bezel as well as flange around the dial are have prominent 24-hour scales, allowing the watch to indicate up to three time zones simultaneously.

Also notable is the fact that the bezel lights up at night, since its markings are filled with Lumibrite, Seiko’s proprietary luminous compound. A fully “lumed” bezel is increasingly common for dive watches, but remain unusual for a dual time zone watch.

And the luminous bezel insert is further covered with a Hardlex ring, which protects the markings below and gives it a shiny surface that evokes a sapphire bezel insert.

The SSK001 is simplest of the trio but is far from basic; amongst its details are the subtle black-and-grey bezel that is only apparent up close or under strong light

Inside the watch is the cal. 4R34, a new movement that is derived from cal. 4R36 found in the standard Seiko 5 Sports. But the new movement replaces the day display of the 4R36 with a 24-hour hand. The substitution, as opposed to addition, of the second time zone complication is likely the reason why the GMT is only 0.1 mm thicker than the standard model.

But the fact that the base movement was not conceived as a second time zone calibre shows up in its functionality. The local-time hour hand cannot be set independently as is the case in true-blue GMT watches.

Pulling the crown out to its outermost position allows the hour and minute hands to be set conventionally, with the 24-hour hand moving in sync. The 24-hour hand can only be adjusted independent with the crown at its second position – turning it one way advances the 24-hour hand and turning it other way advances the date.

That setup means it takes a few more steps to adjust the two time zones displayed on the watch. A full-fledged GMT watch only requires pulling the crown to the second position and setting the local time hand. In contrast, the Seiko 5 GMT requires the local time hands to be set, followed by the 24-hour hand. And then the date has to be set if the particular time zone calls for it.

While the orange dial on the SSK005 is bright and bold (and nostalgic for fans of the “Orange Monster), the bezel is muted with a dark background

Key Facts and Prices

Diameter: 42.5 mm
Height: 13.6 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Hardlex
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: 4R34
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and second time zone hand
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 41 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet

Availability: At Seiko stores starting July 2022
Price: €470, or 52,800 Japanese yen

For more, visit seikowatches.com.

A proponent of Japanese artisanal crafts, Seiko has just taken the covers off the latest watch decorated with traditional Japanese lacquer, the Presage Craftsmanship Series Urushi Dial Limited Edition ref. SPB295J1.

Though both the craft and complications aren’t novel, the SPB295J1 is unusual for its triple retrograde display in a symmetrical layout, which is combined with a dial in dark olive urushi with and gold-powder details.

Initial thoughts

Like the recent pair of time-only watches with porcelain dials, the SPB295 is one of the more elegant watches in the Presage Craftsmanship line. I like the look of the SPB295 – the symmetry and uniformity make it more appealing than the standard Presage day-date watches that rely on a mix of fan-shaped and round sub-dials for the indicators.

Adding to the appeal of the balanced dial layout is the colour. While green is a faddish colour now, it is executed with subtle style here; it’s an understated, dark hue that Seiko accurately describes as evoking a moss garden. And the sprinkle of gold is a nice touch – and a typical feature of traditional Japanese lacquerware – without which the dial the dial might have looked plain.

My only gripe is the unusually small “31” at the end of the date scale, as well as the fact that the date numerals are four days apart, making it difficult to read the dates in between.

Beyond the colour, the watch stands out for the dial layout. Unlike most Seiko Presage day-date watches, the SPB295 features fan-shaped scales for all its displays, resulting in a dial that’s symmetrical. In fact, the triple-fan dial is uncommon at this price point and brings to mind far more expensive watches such as the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day Date.

As is usual for a Presage, the watch big for what it is at 40.5 mm wide and 12.8 mm tall. But it is only marginally thicker than its time-only counterpart, so it is arguably more reasonably sized considering the triple retrograde displays that presumably add a little to the thickness of the movement.

Traditional lacquer

Essentially a metal disc coated in lacquer, the urushi dial is made almost entirely by hand, a process that is made up of three different stages. The dial production process is overseen by Isshu Tamura, the master lacquer artist who is the third generation of his family to helm a workshop located in Kanazawa, a city historically famed for its lacquerware.

Starting out as a blank, the dial is first blasted to give it a rough surface that will hold the liquid lacquer. Several layers of urushi undercoat are applied and then fired in an oven, before being left to dry naturally for two weeks.

Then the intermediate coat of urushi is painted on, which once again requires drying. It’s followed by the top coat – where the drying process is once again repeated – that is then polished to a high gloss when dry. And finally it’s topped with a thin, clear layer of urushi that serves as a protective varnish.

The laborious production process results in a dial with depth and warmth that is distinct from synthetic-lacquer dials made entirely by machine

Powering the watch is a little-known workhorse calibre that’s part of the 6R family, the cal. 6R24. The movement was introduced more than a decade ago, which means the triple retrograde display isn’t actually new. But because the movement was rarely used in the past, the dial layout remains novel.

Key Facts and Price

Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series Urushi Dial Limited Edition
Ref. SPB295J1 (SARD015 in Japan)

Diameter: 40.5 mm
Height: 12.8 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 6R24
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, and power reserve indicator
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Black leather with folding buckle

Limited edition: 2,000 pieces
Availability: Starting July at Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: 220,000 Japanese yen before taxes

For more, visit seikowatches.com.