For over a decade now, Montblanc has been attempting to become a serious watchmaker, an endeavour that started after its acquisition of Minerva. Despite having found only modest success there, the pen maker-turned-luxury-goods-house has produced a good number of proper haute horlogerie watches – mostly chronographs and some with surprisingly accessible prices – many of which have gone under appreciated due to the brand name.

A perfect example of the Minerva mechanical excellence and sharp pricing is Heritage Small Second Limited Edition 38 that was introduced in 2019. The Heritage Small Second is all about the movement, specifically a new-old-stock Minerva calibre from the early 2000s finished to an impressive, artisanal standard. Despite the exceptional movement, the watch never really gained much recognition (much like Montblanc’s other Minerva offerings), but it is certainly worth a revisit.

Initial thoughts

With its retro, two-tone dial in faddish “salmon”, the Heritage Small Second looks like one of the many vintage-inspired watches that has been (re)produced to excess by many brands in various price segments. But this stands out for the impressive degree of detail in the movement, which is finished to a degree comparable to that of artisanal independent watchmakers.

The hand-wound MB M62.00 inside is the star. According to Montblanc, it’s an “untouched” calibre from the attic made during a period when Minerva’s then-owners were dedicated to elevating the brand to the high horology hall of fame. The calibres were redesigned to maximise the potential for hand finishing.

Hand finishing is on all display with the MB M62.00, which even boasts polished teeth on the barrel ratchet and crown wheels. Though a new-old-stock movement in itself is nothing novel, a “NOS” calibre of this quality is an achievement in its own right.

Equally impressive for me is the dial. I appreciate its attention to detail, including the two-tone effect thanks to the frosted chapter ring that adds a touch of refinement. That said, the sub-seconds sits a little too high on the dial due to the relatively large, 39 mm case. At the same time, the “salmon” finish is a pretty but a bit overused right now due to its popularity.

A retro Montblanc logo takes pride of place under 12 o’clock (with the calibre name just below), while “Minerva” is relegated to a “secret signature” on the minute track. Inverting the two would have certainly given this wider recognition, but as it is now, the Heritage Small Second was largely something for those in the know, which is perhaps why only 38 pieces were made. With a retail price of about US$20,000, the Heritage Small Second was a value proposition considering the movement quality, so I hope Montblanc has a few more of these movements hidden away.

The Minerva connection

The Heritage Small Seconds is a tangible extension of the history Minerva, which was acquired by Richemont in 2006 and then folded into Montblanc. Founded in 1858 in the town of Villeret, Minerva built its reputation with high-quality stopwatches and chronographs.

But in the modern era, one of its best known models was the time-only Pythagore. In 1943, Andre Frey, the nephew of the second owner of the brand, designed the cal. 48, a hand-wind movement designed according to the golden ratio, supposedly first theorised by the Greek mathematician Pythagoras – the resulting watch was named the Pythagore.

The cal. 48, as it was then, was a solid but plain movement. But in the 1990s the movement was dressed up for a display back and the Pythagore soon became popular amongst watch enthusiasts.

An example of a 1990s Minerva Pythagore. Image – Phillips

And the cal. 48 in its original, undecorated form. Image – Phillips

The next chapter of the cal. 48 – and for Minerva as a whole – began in 2000 when the brand was taken over by Emilio Gnutti, an Italian business tycoon whose financial struggles meant his ownership was short-lived. A watch lover who also collected Ferraris and other exotic automobiles, Mr Gnutti transformed Minerva into a high horology house almost overnight by redesigning its stable of in-house movements and bestowing upon them exceptional finishing.

When Richemont landed Minerva six years later, it was buying a factory, a historical archive, and trove of beautiful calibres, many of which were already complete. The MB M62.00 inside the Heritage Small Seconds is essentially a Gnutti-era calibre.

Vintage style and mechanics

Unsurprisingly, the design of the Heritage Small Second references the Minerva Pythagore. Designed in a similar manner but with a contemporary feel, the Heritage Small Seconds attempt to capture the mid-century aesthetic of the vintage Pythagore, right down to n the old-school Montblanc logo that was original found on its pens of the 1920s and 1930s. 

While the design is somewhat generic in its retro style, the dial is finely executed and nicely detailed. Fashionably pink in hue, the dial is two-tone thanks to the granular finish on the chapter ring that has applied hour markers. The grained finish contrasts with the radial brushing that catches the light. 

An odd quirk of the dial are the red accents at six and 12 o’clock on the minute track. They are probably there to add colour to the dial, but they lack a logical purpose, making them unnecessary and distracting.

And hidden between and five o’clock is the “secret signature”, which is the first instance that the Minerva name is appearing on the dial of a Montblanc. If anything, the signature is too secret. Given the strength of the Minerva name as a watchmaker, “Minerva” would look perfectly at home alongside the Montblanc name.

The barely-there signature

Compared to Montblanc’s other Heritage models (that do not contain Minerva movements) that are 40 mm, the Heritage Small Seconds is scaled down slightly to 39 mm in diameter, while the height is 9.45 mm. While the size is still clearly modern, the dimensions are compact enough to evoke a vintage watch.

That said, the case is still quite a bit larger than the movement, which is why the seconds register sits a noticeable distance away from the edge of the dial. And on the back it is even more obvious, with the case back wide enough to accommodate two rows of engraving that leave it looking a bit cluttered.

The case is straightforward – rounded in form and entirely polished. It’s essentially identical to the other offerings in the Heritage collection, which isn’t as fancy as one expects on a watch of this price, however, this is entirely reasonable since it is obvious that majority of the effort went into the movement.

Simple as it is, the case does have boast pleasing detail in the form of a domed sapphire crystal that brings to mind the plastic crystals of vintage watches.

MB M62.00

At the heart of the Heritage Small Second is the MB M62.00, a hand-wound movement created in the early 2000s during the Gnutti ownership of the brand. Since it has largely focused on chronographs and tourbillon watches for its high-end offerings, Montblanc has used this time-only calibre only sparingly.

The movement was last found in the Villeret Seconde Authentique, a limited edition of just 58 pieces from 2013. While the Villeret featured a far more elaborate case and dial, it cost four times as much as the Heritage Small Second, illustrating the value proposition of the latter. 

The MB M62.00 

But the 58 Villeret watches still left some movements unused. According to Montblanc, 38 movements were retrieved from the archives for this Heritage limited edition. These movements were all completed prior to the Montblanc takeover, so they bear the “Minerva” and “Villeret” engravings on their bridges, giving them added pedigree.

The MB M62.00 is essentially a cal. 48 that’s been facelifted with new redesigned bridges and stellar decoration. Gone are the linear bridges of the cal. 48, which have been replaced by elegantly curved bridges.

Even details like the regulator index were refined: the plain pointer index of the cal. 48 was replaced with a swan’s neck regulator that incorporates the “devil’s tail”, a flourish taken from the levers of Minerva’s chronograph movements (and in turn inspired by the arrow-shaped Minerva logo of old). Another upgrade was the addition of a slender steel spring for the winding click – not imperative but certainly beautiful.

Like all Minerva movements used by Montblanc, the MB M62.00 utilises a screwed balance wheel with an in-house hairspring

To go along with the classically styled movement is top-class finishing. In fact, the quality of the decoration is comparable to that of high-end independent watchmakers. Being a new-old-stock movement, the calibre does reveal a handful of stray marks in less obvious places like the base plate. They do not detract from its appeal, and add to the vintage charm.

As with most of the Gnutti-era movements, emphasis was placed on decoration. This is clearly seen in the hand-polished bevels and striping on the bridges, as well as the lustrous sunray-brushing on the barrel and ratchet wheels with polished teeth. The same level of effort is visible in the steel parts, namely the black-polished regulator index along with the polished and chamfered screw heads. 

With its high level of finishing, the MB M62.00 elevates the Heritage Small Second to the realm of exceptional time-only watches in terms of quality, though not in price.

The black-polished regulator index

The bridges all sport prominent bevels

The winding wheels feature polished teeth, while the winding click spring has finely bevelled edges

Concluding thoughts

The Heritage Small Second is a carefully conceived timepiece that combines retro styling with a gorgeous movement. Despite the vintage-inspired styling, it is an obviously modern watch on the front, but the case back reveals its true nature and obvious quality. The watch is certainly a standout amongst its contemporaries, offering perhaps the best movement finishing in the price segment. 

Key Facts and Price

Montblanc Heritage Small Seconds Limited Edition 38
Ref. 124781

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 8.9 mm
Material: Steel
Water resistance: 50 m
Crystal: Sapphire

Movement: MB M62.00
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Winding: Hand wind
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Alligator strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: 38 pieces
Availability: Launched in 2019 and probably sold out
Price: US$18,900

For more, visit Montblanc.com.

Last month, Cartier relaunched the Tank Francaise, a bestseller in the 1990s and early 2000s and also  the first Tank to feature an integrated bracelet. Retaining the design elements of the 1996 original, the new Tank Francaise nonetheless sports a sleeker form and a more modern appearance overall. In many ways it’s not merely a remake but an entirely new watch.

Initial thoughts

When Cartier revealed the revamped Tank Francaise 27 years after the original, I was sceptical for several reasons. One because the original isn’t yet vintage enough to be a classic, but it is old enough that it might be stale. Another is the fact that it has been around for so long – the heyday of the original was the late 1990s but it remained in the catalogue until recently – the design feels too familiar.

So I naturally wondered if the brand would do it justice to the model in redesigning it. After checking out the new Tank Francaise, I can certainly say it is well done and just right (apart from a few minor shortcomings in execution, like the date on the large model).

The large model in steel

The new Tank Francaise retains the style of the original, so it still has a bit of retro, 1990s style but not too much so it manages to look current. It still has the look of the original, with a similar outline and profile, but now with cleaner lines and neater details like a recessed crown. Other details like the brushed finish and sticker-appliqué numerals on the dials adds texture and visual interest up close.

The large model is the only one with an automatic movement and date (so far)

That said, two shortcomings stand out for me. One is the date window on the larger model, which is too small and too far from the edge of the dial. It simply looks out of place and the design would have been better off without it. Another is the the fit of the bracelet end-links; there was more vertical play between the end-links and the case than expected.

More broadly, I hope the Tank Francaise line-up will have more mechanical offerings. Currently only the large model in steel has an automatic movement while all the rest are quartz. The convenience of quartz is undeniable but mechanical movements certainly appeal more to enthusiasts.

In terms of price, the Tank Francaise is fair value by Cartier standards. The large model with an automatic movement costs US$5,500, which places it amongst the most affordable mechanical Cartier watches. However, it is pricey compared to offerings from brands like Tudor or Longines, but the premium is arguably justified by the iconic nature of the Tank design and Cartier’s history as a maker of form watches.

Revamp redux

The original Tank Francaise was itself a revamp of earlier Tank designs, which number several dozen at least. All trace their origins to the very first Tank wristwatch designed in 1917 by Louis Cartier, who took inspiration from the Renault FT light tanks utilised by the French forces during the First World War. Revolutionary in design, the Tank was one of the first form wristwatches ever designed and has enjoyed incredible longevity as a timeless design that’s been constantly restyled to create new incarnations.

One such incarnation arrived in 1996 as the Tank Francaise as Cartier was transitioning away from the low-end Must watches. Characterised by an angular case, it was the first Tank to feature an integrated bracelet that continued the case design. It was first available in stainless steel or gold, as well as a combination of both, and later as a jewellery watch with diamonds and other precious stones on the case and bracelet.

An example of the original Tank Francaise, this one a small model from 2005 in steel and gold. Image – Sotheby’s

One of the “it” watches of the late 1990s and early 2000s, the Tank Francaise was so successful that its sales swiftly reached one million units. Though its popularity faded in later years, the Tank Francaise in its original guise remained in the catalogue until recently, giving it an impressive lifespan of almost three decades.

Nips and tucks

The original Tank Francaise was naturally a watch of the 1990s. Its replacement, on the other hand, has the advantage of 21st century design and production techniques.

As a result, the revamped Tank Francaise boasts cleaner, sharped details. The dials are now entirely brushed, while the original had either a simple grained dial or fancier guilloche dial. And instead of the printed Roman numerals, the dials now feature reflective metallic appliqué stickers that give them a more dynamic look.

The dial finish varies subtly according to the case metal. The steel models feature a vertically-brushed, silvered dial with dark grey Roman numerals, while the gold version has a radially-brushed champagne-tone dial and black numerals. 

The steel version has a silvered dial with reflective, dark grey numerals

While the dial design has changed, the overall aesthetic is still classic Cartier with a railway minute track and blued steel sword hands. The look is appealing, but even though the brushed dials give the new Tank Francaise a more modern look, retaining the guilloche dial, at least on some variants, would have added more flavour to the line.

And in the gold the dial gets a pale champagne finish with reflective, black numerals

It’s worth noting the dial of the large model in steel, which is the only mechanical model and also the only one with a date. When the original Tank Francaise had a date, it would be at six for a symmetrical layout.

Now the date has been moved to the three o’clock position where it unfortunately looks awkward, both because of its position and small size – the date window is disproportionately small compared to the rest of the dial.

Just like the dial, the case and bracelet have been facelifted while preserving the look of the original. The adjustments to the case and bracelet design are individually minor, but together they give the watch a more streamlined and cohesive look.

Amongst the changes are redesigned links that allow the bracelet to flow better into the lines of the case. Another is the crown that sits in a shallow recess on the case side. This lowers the profile of the crown slightly, giving the watch a trimmer silhouette.

The only criticism of the bracelet lies in the end links that reveal a fair degree of play. This is made more obvious since the border between the end links and case on each side is unobscured, long, and horizontal.

Although the redesign results in a more streamlined watch, the new Tank Francaise feels upsized over the original, especially in its largest size. Compared to other Cartier models, the Tank Francaise is not quite as chunky as the equivalent Santos de Cartier, but is certainly more chunky than the Tank Louis Cartier or Santos Dumont.

None of the three sizes of the Tank Francaise are especially large watches, but they feel solid. This was probably intentional on the part of its designers who probably wanted to give it a substantial, bracelet-like feel on the wrist.

In typical Cartier style, the three sizes are labelled simply: small, medium, and large. Only the steel model is available in three sizes. The gold models are only in small or medium, with the option of diamonds on the bezel.

The Tank Francaise in steel

And in 18k yellow gold

Enthusiasts, however, might be disappointed that practically all of the Tank Francaise line-up is quartz (albeit “high-autonomy quartz” that has an eight-year battery life), except for the large model.

It’s powered by the  cal. 1853 MC, which is actually a Sellita SW100. Developed for ladies watches, it’s a no-frills automatic movement that’s a compact 17.2 mm in diameter, explaining its very short power reserve of 37 hours. The caliber is definitely an entry-level movement, but the Tank Francaise is priced as an entry-level Cartier.

The back of the steel model that conceals the Sellita base movement

Concluding thoughts

The revamp of the Tank Francaise was long overdue but done right for the most part. The changes were just right, resulting in a watch that still has the distinctive character of the original, but with neater details and a more hefty feel in hand. Some details, namely the date and end links, should have been executed better, but overall the new Tank Francaise accomplishes what it sets out to do, update a 1990s design to suit modern tastes and manufacturing standards. 

Key Facts and Price

Cartier Tank Francaise
Ref. CRWSTA0067 (large model, steel, automatic)
Ref. CRWSTA0074 (medium model, steel, quartz)
Ref. CRWSTA0065 (small model, steel, quartz)
Ref. CRWGTA0113 (medium model, yellow gold, quartz)
Ref. CRWGTA0114 (small model, yellow gold, quartz)

Diameter: Large 36.7 mm by 30.5 mm; medium 32 mm by 27 mm; small 25.7 mm by 21.2 mm
Height: Large 10.1 mm; medium 7.1 mm; small 6.8 mm
Material: Steel or 18k yellow gold
Water resistance: 30 m
Crystal: Sapphire

Movement: 1853 MC (Sellita SW100) for automatic model; or “high autonomy” quartz
Functions: Automatic has hours, minutes, seconds, and date; quartz has hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 37 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Cartier boutiques and retailers

Price:

Large, steel: US$5,500 or 7,700 Singapore dollars 
Medium, steel: US$4,450 or 6,300 Singapore dollars 
Small, steel: US$3,550 or 4,950 Singapore dollars

Medium, gold without diamonds: US$24,300 or 34,600 Singapore dollars 
Small, gold without diamonds: US$20,900 or 29,700 Singapore dollars

Medium, gold with diamonds: US$30,700 or 43,600 Singapore dollars
Small, gold with diamonds: US$27,500 or 39,200 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Cartier.com

Last year, IWC reinvigorated the underrated Portofino line that’s long been overshadowed by the bestselling Pilot’s Watch and Portugieser. Historically one of the brand’s most classical offerings, the Portofino is best summarised as clean, almost minimalist, with the occasional Roman numerals. 

While recent Portofino complications have been somewhat plain, the Portofino perpetual calendar made things a little more interesting. Now IWC is continuing with the theme in a more affordable manner with the Portofino Complete Calendar. Taking its design cues from the more complex perpetual, the Complete Calendar is slightly larger but mechanically simpler. And as a result of the entry-level pricing, it is is powered by the no-frills ValFleurier movement widely used by watch brands owned by Swiss luxury group Richemont, which naturally includes IWC. 

The symmetrical dial

The ValFleurier movement has been dressed up for the display back

Initial thoughts

For the longest time, IWC has emphasised two lines, Pilot’s Watches and Portugieser, simply because they sell the best. At the same time, it has tried  to rejuvenate its other collections like the Ingenieuir and Aquatimer with little success.

Last year it made tentative steps in reviving the Portofino collection with an all-new perpetual calendar. Simple in design, the Portofino perpetual doesn’t try to do too much – and for that reason it found some success as the brand’s entry-level perpetual calendar. Now IWC is doing the same with a simpler calendar, once again keeping it focused and concise.

The Complete Calendar is essentially a triple calendar, but unlike most triple calendar watches that have a traditional layout with two windows under 12 o’clock, this opts for a more modern two-register dial. This gives it a distinctive appearance that sets it apart from comparable offerings in its price range.

Layout aside, the Complete Calendar retains the characteristic Portofino styling, so the hour markers are baton while the typography is sans serif. Granted, the design might come across as staid, particularly compared to IWC’s higher-end calendar watches, which are not only more complicated but also feature more vibrant dial colours.

At the same time, the movement inside the Complete Calendar is very much a basic calibre. But considering its affordability – the steel variant costs US$10,800 – the new Portofino is a good option. If you like the clean styling, it is a good proposition. That said, a price under US$10,000 would have made it an excellent value proposition.

The Portofino Perpetual Calendar released last year

Complete and triple, but not perpetual

A complete calendar displays the date, day of the week, month, and occasionally the moon phase. It is more commonly known as a triple calendar. The main difference between this and a perpetual calendar is setting the calendar: a complete calendar mechanism assumes every month has 31 days, so it has to be adjusted in each month that does not have 31 days. In contrast a perpetual calendar only needs to be corrected every 100 years when the leap year is absent due to a quirk of the Gregorian calendar.

The new Portofino executes the complication with two registers – the months and date combined at six o’clock, while the moon phase and weekday are at 12 o’clock. Each of the calendar indications can be adjusted individually either via recessed pushers on the side of the case, or all at once via the crown. 

Because it is mechanically simpler than a perpetual, the Complete Calendar is also slimmer than its perpetual calendar counterpart. Compared to the 40 mm perpetual, it has a larger diameter of 41 mm, which was definitely a design choice since the movement is relatively small. But it is only 11.8 mm high, almost 1 mm thinner than the perpetual, resulting in fairly elegant proportions.

The case has the usual Portofino design, which is the simplest amongst IWC’s lines. It’s entirely rounded, right down to the shape of the lugs, and entirely polished, with little adornment anywhere. The simplicity in its construction, with the lack of embellishment or contrasting finishes, is unsurprising since Portofino models are usually the most affordable in each category. 

Available in either stainless steel or 18k red gold, the Complete Calendar only has one dial option for now, a fuss-free silver with hands and markers to match the case. Both dial versions gain some colour thanks to a blued steel seconds hand.

The Portofino Complete Calendar is also available in stainless steel. Image – IWC

The dial is sensibly designed and legible. Even though the complete calendar function means the dial gets more crowded than on a time-only watch, everything is presented in a clear and organised manner. 

The twin sub-dials are bordered in gold and featured an outer scale with concentric patterning, giving them depth and contrast. And the moon phase disc has both the moon and stars in relief against a grained background, adding a bit of detail to the clean dial.

The Complete Calendar has a sapphire back that provides a peek at the cal. 32150 inside. The calibre features an efficient “Magic Lever” pawl-winding system and a respectable 72 hours of power reserve. 

It’s part of the larger 32000 family of movements, which is in turn derived from the workhorse calibre developed by ValFleurier, the movement factory owned by Richemont that supplies several of the groups brands. Different iterations of the same calibre can be found in watches by Cartier, Panerai, and Baume & Mercier. But it is usually found in each respective brand’s entry-level models, as the Portofino Complete Calendar is.

The cal. 32150

While it still is clearly an entry-level model – the cost-efficient Etachron regulator gives that away – the cal. 32150 has been dressed up more than its equivalents in less expensive watches. It has circular striping on the bridges, perlage on the base plate, along with blued screws and a rose gold-plated rotor – all industrial finishing no doubt but still visually appealing.

Concluding thoughts

It’s easy to see why the Portofino Complete Calendar is attractive. It offers a useful complication in a simple and elegant package that features a good quality of construction. Admittedly it is not as sophisticated in terms of finishing or mechanics as IWC’s pricier watches, but it still has the usual workmanlike IWC quality. The muted colours and plain movement are downsides, but it is the most affordable IWC calendar complication. 

Key Facts and Price

IWC Portofino Complete Calendar
Ref. IW359001 (steel)
Ref. IW359002 (rose gold)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 11.8 mm
Material: Stainless steel or 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 32150
Functions: Hours, minutes, central hacking seconds, date, day, month, and moon phase
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Blue or taupe calfskin strap with buckle

Availability: Available at IWC boutiques, IWC.com, and retailers starting April 2023.
Price: US$10,800 for stainless steel or 15,000 Singapore dollars; US$20,400 for rose gold or 29,400 Singapore dollars.

For more, visit IWC.com.

Louis Vuitton (LV) marked the 20th anniversary of its first mechanical watch last year (with an El Primero-powered chronograph). The brand has rapidly evolved its horological offerings over the two decades, going from largely basic, monogrammed watches to ambitious complications like the gothic Carpe Diem Minute Repeater with automaton. 

A more whimsical example of LV’s progress in complications is the Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours, a quirky interpretation of the jump hour complication that’s presented in a redesigned, svelte version of its signature drum-shaped case.

Initial thoughts

At the distance, the Vivienne Jump Hours looks like a run-of-the-mill character watch that’s slightly fancier than average. But upon closer inspection, it reveals a novel complication and an impressive degree of detail in the execution of the dial.

The jump hour is mechanically conventional but presents as a double jumping indicator thanks to clever design. Its whimsical and unusual presentation typifies the spirit of LV. In fact, the complication is different enough that we hope it will make its way into more watches, especially timepieces for men. Given that the titular Vivienne character has a male counterpart named Gaston, it would make sense for the complication to make its way into a watch in a larger size. 

The Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours “Casino” with a green skarn dial

And I really dig the dials of the Vivienne Jump Hours, especially the dial in skarn, a recently-discovered mineral being used for the first time in watchmaking. The fact that it’s a first in watchmaking isn’t especially notable, but green skarn’s texture and colour instantly evoke the green-felt top of a poker table. The other two dial variants for the watch are pretty, but this is perfect.

Beyond the material, the dial decoration is equally impressive. The applied elements are tiny yet remarkably detailed and have a subtle thickness that’s just enough to show depth (the secret to that is that the elements are metallised stickers; more on that below).

More broadly, the Vivienne encapsulates LV’s strengths and weaknesses as a watchmaker. Naturally it excels in distinctive design, a given since it is mainly a fashion house. And from a technical perspective, its in-house dial-making workshop results in impressive versatility and quality in terms of dials, while the mechanical ingenuity of LFDT results in complications like the this jumping hours.

On the other hand, the main shortcoming of LV’s watchmaking is its lack of a proprietary movement (or movements) to serve as the base calibre for watches like the Vivienne. That said, LV is known to be working on its own movement, so that’s a matter of patience.

The ETA 2892 is dressed up with an 18k pink gold rotor

The whimsical mascot

The central motif of the jump hours is Vivienne, the whimsical mascot Louis Vuitton created in 2017. An anthropomorphic character composed of the brand’s monogram emblems, Vivienne has since added a touch of whimsy to LV’s ad campaigns and products.

Vivienne previously made an appearance in the brand’s timepieces, albeit in a more subtle manner with the Tambour Spin Time Air Vivienne of 2021, a variant of the brand’s signature cubic jump hours where the traditional cubes for the hours were replaced by tiny Vivienne figures. 

A Vivienne doll in wood and monogram canvas. Image – Louis Vuitton

The new Tambour continues the tradition of high horology character watches – Gerald Genta’s Disney watches are perhaps the best known – with Vivienne being the star.

The watch indicates minutes conventionally with a central hand that’s actually “invisible” because it’s a tube of transparent sapphire crystal.

While conventional jump hours have a single hour window, usually at six or 12 o’clock, the Vivienne Jump Hours relies on two hour windows positioned asymmetrically.

As the minute hand pass 12 o’clock, the jump hour mechanism is triggered, causing the hour disc to jump and simultaneously switching the hour display from one window to the other. So if it is the left window showing “12”, then “1” will display in the right window at the hour of the hour.

Though mechanically conventional, the jumping hour is presented in a double-window display so the hour display alternates between two windows every hour. Because the hour windows are discreetly positioned as part of the decorative pattern, the resulting visual effect is used to create the impression of cards being dealt or juggling balls.

The jumping hour mechanism is a module on top of the base movement, which adds to the height of the watch.

As a result, although the case is a compact 38 mm, it is relatively thick at 12.21 mm, which is about the same height as the current Rolex Daytona.

The case is either 18k yellow, pink, or white gold, depending on the version

All versions have a rose-cut diamond in the crown

All three versions of the Vivienne Jump Hours have the same movement, but with different, thematic dials. Casino has cards and poker chips spread out, Fortune portrays Vivienne as a fortune teller, and Circus has Vivienne dressed as a ringmaster complete with top hat.

From left: Circus, Casino, and Fortune

The dial material varies across the three. Fortune does it with blue aventurine glass, Circus is in white mother-of-pearl, and the most exotic is Casino, which has a dial made of green skarn, a green stone visually similar to jadeite and maw sit sit.

And the accompanying decoration is naturally different, but it is done in an equally elaborate manner for each model. The dials are set with diamonds, metallised appliqués, and hand-painted elements. On the Fortune model, for instance, Vivienne’s headscarf, jewellery, and cards are all hand painted, while the monogram flowers on the dial are appliqués secured to the dial with adhesive.

Fortune has an aventurine glass dial

While aventurine and mother-of-pearl dials are common, green skarn is unusual. In fact, the Casino model is the first wristwatch to have a green skarn dial.

More accurately known as sannan-skarn, the material is a metamorphic rock first discovered in Pakistan in 2015. Easily mistaken for jadeite or maw sit sit, green skarn has a mottled finish of rich green with black inclusions, making it a perfect substitute for the green felt of a card table.

The Casino model is set with tsavorites and red rubies on its bezel

The new Tambour is powered by the LV 180, an automatic movement customised by La Fabrique du Temps (LFDT), the complications specialist LV acquired in 2012. LFDT is still managed by founders Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, veteran watchmakers whose careers took them to Patek Philippe and Gerald Genta.

The base of the LV 180 is the workhorse ETA 2892, a robust calibre that can easily handle the energy-intensive needs of a jumping hour. But the movement has been around a long time, so its 42-hour power reserve is shorter than the 70 hours that’s now the industry norm.

Here the ETA 2892 is in its top-of-the-line guise, which means slightly more refined finishing than basic versions of the movement. And the movement is further dressed up with a rose gold rotor featuring the LV monogram. Even so, the Vivienne Jump Hours would probably have been better served with a closed back since the movement is fairly plain, at least for the enthusiasts who knows her calibres.

The LV 180

Concluding thoughts

Dainty and whimsical, the Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours is an elegantly quirky complication with a beautifully executed dial. It manages to combine LV’s exuberant style with a classical complication presented in a clever manner. But a more sophisticated base movement would elevate it to another level altogether.

Key facts and price

Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 12.21 mm
Material: 18K white, pink, or yellow gold, set with diamonds, green tsavorites, or red rubies
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: LV 110
Features: Double aperture jumping hour complication with minutes
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Alligator leather with pin buckle set with diamonds

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Louis Vuitton boutiques
Price: Price upon request

For more, visit Louisvuitton.com.

Having redesigned the Polo to suit contemporary tastes in 2016, Piaget now debuts most complicated watch in its sports watch line, the Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. With a steel case just 8.65 mm high, it’s dressed in the very current shade of dark green. Though the complication isn’t new for Piaget or even luxury-sports watches more broadly, the perpetual calendar takes the Polo into new territory as an upscale, complicated watch.

The model was introduced in 1979 as a chunky watch with a geometric design rendered entirely in yellow gold, reflecting the popular style of the era. Today’s Polo bears little resemblance to its historical namesake and instead opts for a design in tune with today’s preference for sports watches in that aren’t round.

Initial thoughts

The new perpetual calendar is essentially the same proposition as its simpler brethren in the Polo line – a design and complication similar to more established luxury-sports watches, but at a more affordable price. So it has a patterned dial, cushion-shaped case, matching steel bracelet, and a retail price of US$58,500. That’s a reasonable ask considering its intrinsic features like finishing and complication. 

On the other hand, the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5740/1G or recently launched Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 26586TI cost well into the six figures – but they are also more sophisticated mechanically and executed with much more refinement. In short, the Polo perpetual is priced right relative to other watches in the category.

So the Polo perpetual does feel a bit derivative in terms of design. The styling easily evokes other watches in the segment – which can perhaps be seen as commercial necessity today – but it’s a handsome enough watch on its own. The dial design in particular is worth mentioning: though it has a traditional layout (due to the stock calendar module inside), the calendar indications are larger than usual, giving them prominence and legibility.

And the new perpetual also enjoys an upgraded bracelet that is tangible superior to that on its three-hand and chronograph counterparts in the Polo collection. While it retains the same design, the new bracelet gets better finishing and an improved quick-release mechanism amongst other upgrades.

Design evolution

The new Polo is a distant cousin of the original from 1979 that was designed by Yves Piaget, great-grandson of the brand’s founder. Reflecting the form of the 1970s and also the exuberance of the 1980s, the original Polo was a showcase for a cutting-edge movement of the day, the cal. 7P, then the world’s thinnest quartz movement, standing just 3.1 mm high. 

Characterised by polished horizontal bands, the Polo was long-lived and evolved in a range of directions over the following decades, resulting in dozens of Polo models, most of which retained the horizontal bands in one form or another. But the original styling was abandoned in 2016 for the current Polo.

The original Piaget Polo ref. 7661 from 1979. Image – Sotheby’s

Unquestionably a more modern watch – but less original than the quirky 1979 design – the current Polo made its debut as the Polo S in both three-hand and chronograph variants.

With a cushioned-shaped case and horizontally-banded dial, the design did receive its share of flak at the time due to the similarity to famous luxury-sports watches, but it has proven to be a strong seller for Piaget, thanks in part to its comparable affordability. 

The Polo S Chronograph of 2016

The new perpetual naturally takes after the 2016 design. It retains the same cushion case and matching integrated bracelet but with more elegant proportions. The case of the perpetual is just 8.6 mm high, but a wide 42 mm in diameter.

It’s matched with a redesigned bracelet that looks the same at a distance but is more refined than the bracelets found on earlier models. The clasp is better designed and beefier, while the links now get a polished bevel on their outer edges. A more practical upgrade is the single-button quick-release system that is also used by Piaget’s sister brands like Cartier.

But perhaps the most notable tweak is the addition of polished bands on the centre links of the bracelet, a subtle nod to the design of the original Polo of 1979. Not only are they a historical reference, but the bands also give the bracelet a more distinctive look.

As for the dial, the Polo perpetual sticks to a currently popular colour. It’s a dark emerald green with the same horizontal gadroon pattern found on other Polo models that was inspired by the banded design of the 1979 original.

The perpetual calendar indicators are conventionally positioned at the quarters with moon phase at six o’clock. Legibility is good for this style of calendar, which can get crowded on the dial. Readability is also helped by the hands and hours markers, which are sizeable and filled with Super-Luminova.

Like the other Polo models, the Polo perpetual has a display back to reveal the cal. 1255P. While technically a new calibre, it’s essentially the familiar ultra-thin cal. 1200 used across Piaget’s catalogue, mainly in Altiplano dress watches, but with the addition of a perpetual calendar module. Including the calendar module, the movement measures just 4 mm high.

The movement finishing is typical Piaget and comparable to Jaeger-LeCoultre for instance. That is to say the decoration is neat and comprehensive, but largely done by machine.

One notable aesthetic upgrade is the “P” regulator index that replaces the Etachron equivalent in earlier versions of the movement. While both are equally functional, the “P” regulator is certainly more appealing visually.

The regulator index is shaped like the Piaget “P”

And the perpetual calendar module is hidden under the dial, but its identity is easy to guess. It’s the Dubois Dépraz 5100, the most widely used perpetual calendar in Swiss watchmaking. 

Found in watches across the price spectrum, from the Vacheron Constantin Overseas to the Habring² CFP, the module has been around for decades so it’s tried and tested. But because of its age its construction is traditional, making it slightly fiddly to adjust since all the calendar indications are set via recessed buttons on the case.

This under-dial image of the movement reveals the calendar module. Image – Piaget

Key facts and price

Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Ref. G0A48005

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 8.65 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 1255P
Functions: Hours, minutes, and perpetual calendar with moon phase
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet and additional green rubber strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Piaget online shops, boutiques, and retailers
Price: US$58,500 (excluding taxes)

For more, visit Piaget.com.

Audemars Piguet’s recent launches are mostly variations on a theme, but done well and strongly appealing, as exemplified by the Royal Oak “Jumbo” with a grained dial. The Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 41 mm is exactly that.

Based on the thinnest-perpetual-calendar-ever #RD2 of 2018, the model was first presented in the two-metal combo of titanium and platinum a year later. But now it returns entirely in titanium, an arguably superior presentation that more low key thanks to an all-brushed finish and strikingly lightweight.

The clever cal. 5133 inside allows for a case just 6.2 mm high

Initial thoughts

The new perpetual calendar is probably the best of AP’s new releases. It combines a clever, original movement with the iconic case design, packaged in a compact, lightweight, and mostly discreet manner.

While this perpetual calendar is no longer the thinnest in the world – it was trumped by Bulgari last year – it is still remarkably thin. At 6.2 mm high, the case is almost a quarter slimmer than that of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202. As a result, this feels like a wafer on the wrist, a feeling accentuated by the lightness resulting from the all-titanium case and bracelet.

Because it is entirely titanium, this does away with the mirror-polished components that were platinum in the preceding model. This results in a more traditional Royal Oak finish that is slightly more restrained and certainly more elegant.

The other element new to this version is the smoked blue dial. It’s handsome and suits the clean feel of the watch, but I would have preferred the tapisserie guilloche that is quintessential Royal Oak.

Admittedly, the new perpetual calendar is merely a variant of the 2019 limited edition. Repetition is definitely not innovation or progress but it doesn’t take away from the intrinsic appeal of the watch. And with both the 2019 and current models each limited to 200 watches, the total number produced remains modest, an assurance this will remain fairly uncommon (at least for now).

The ultra-thin perpetual costs CHF137,000, a reasonable proposition as such things go. It is certainly more squarely priced than the new Offshore in ceramic, and about the same as more ordinary luxury-sports perpetual calendars like the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin. Granted, most of its comparably-priced rivals are in precious metal, while this is inexpensive titanium, but this is undoubtedly more compelling both in terms of tactile feel and also the ingenious calibre.

Concept made real

Like its bi-metal predecessor, the new perpetual calendar is derived from the Royal Oak RD#2, the concept watch that was debuted in 2018 as the thinnest perpetual calendar wristwatch ever. Slender but weight thanks to an all-platinum case and bracelet, the RD#2 was just 6.3 mm high thanks to a cleverly designed movement.

The cal. 5133 inside was condensed to reduce the part count, while the calendar module was comprised of components spread out rather than stacked up. The result was a wider than usual calibre but one with exceptional slimness.

It quickly made it way into serial production as the 200-piece limited edition in titanium with the bezel and centre links in platinum. Though the concept watch had a traditional tapisserie dial, the limited edition simplified the aesthetic with a vertically brushed dial in dark blue.

The Royal Oak RD#2 Perpetual Calendar ref. 26586PT from 2018

The new perpetual calendar is essentially another version of the 2019 limited edition. The case is identical in dimensions, but now entirely titanium in the conventional Royal Oak finish, which means brushed surfaces accented by polished bevels on all edges.

Even though titanium is a shade darker than steel and marginally more difficult to polish, the case and bracelet are perfectly finished, giving the surfaces a lustre that is indistinguishable from steel at arm’s length. And the alloy is of course lightweight, giving the watch striking lightness that is probably as good as it gets for an all-metal watch on a bracelet.

At 41 mm, the case is slightly wider than that of the “Jumbo” but substantially thinner at 6.2 mm. Despite the variance in dimensions, it is reminiscent of the “Jumbo” in proportions, which is a good thing.

As for the dial, it is radially brushed and finished in a graduated blue that goes from a medium hue to almost black at the edges. It’s a good-looking dial but the smoked finish is verging on overdone today, with a range of brands turning to gradient dials for an easily-achieved new look.

The mechanics of the watch are unchanged, with the cal. 5133 continuing to do its thing at just 2.9 mm high. Based on the cal. 2120 ultra-thin movement originally developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre and used in the original 1972 Royal Oak ref. 5402, the cal. 5133 reduces the moving parts to a minimum in order to achieve its slimness.

The barrel, for instance, is of a “floating” or “hanging” construction with a pivot only on one side. The upper pivot of the barrel is instead secured by the underside of the dial, which functions as a main plate of sorts. Other innovations include the rejigged calendar mechanism that spreads out the wheels driving the calendar, resulting in a 32 mm diameter, about 10% wider – but very much thinner – than the standard Royal Oak perpetual calendar movement.

Naturally, the reductive movement construction requires some compromise. One is the relatively slow balance frequency of just 2.75 Hz or 19,800 beats per hour (most modern movements run at 4 Hz or 28,8000 beats per hour), which is not the best for stable timekeeping in the face of shock or other perturbations.

Another is a compact mainspring that has a short, 40-hour power reserve. By comparison, the latest-generation cal. 7121 found in the current Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 has a 70-hour running time.

Key facts and price

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 41 mm
Ref. 26586TI.OO.1240TI. 01

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 6.2 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 20 m

Movement: Cal. 5133
Functions: Perpetual calendar with day, date, month, astronomical moon, leap year and day/night indications, hours and minutes.
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 19,800 beats per hour (2.75 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet with folding clasp

Limited edition: 200 pieces
Availability: At AP Houses and boutiques
Price: CHF137,000 before taxes

For more, visit Audemarspiguet.com.

At its release in 2019, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet created lots of buzz – some of it for the wrong reasons, with the design being panned as uninspiring. But Audemars Piguet (AP) stuck with the model and swiftly tweaked the formula, resulting in watches that were better received, including the recent Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Starwheel.

Now the base models have received a facelift that does away with the plain dials of the originals, replacing them with a finely-patterned stamped dial. Available as either a chronograph or three-hander, the new Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet is also in stainless steel, making it (slightly) more accessible.

Initial thoughts

The redesigned Code 11.59 is certainly more appealing than the original, with the dial giving it a level of visual detail absent from its predecessor. Fans of the original will like the new Code 11.59, and those on the fence will probably be persuaded as well. But anyone who disliked the original will not be swayed since it is essentially the same watch but in new attire.

Although the dials are stamped, they offer a surprising level of detail. The pattern is intricate enough that I thought they were engraved with a CNC machine when I first saw them.

The “smoked beige” dial

And the one in blue

To go with the new dial are redesigned hands and hour markers. Gone are the plain baton hands and markers with Arabic quarters, they have been replaced by baton hands and markers with more detail. The markers are facetted while the hands are partially open worked, and both feature luminous filling.

Though slightly more modern than before, the new hands and markers are still slightly retro from a distance. I would have preferred a more pronounced, contemporary design to go with the distinctly modern case.

The new Code 11.59 makes it debut with a fairly compact line-up of just six references made up of two models, each in three dial colours.

While the blue and green dials are pleasing, they are quite conventional. The “smoked beige” dial, on the other hand, stands out for being unusual yet handsome. Plus it is the only variant with a ceramic case middle; the rest are entirely steel.

Starting at CHF21,000 for the three-hander and CHF29,000 for the chronograph, the new Code 11.59 is the most affordable mechanical AP watch. The Code 11.59 compares well against equivalent offerings from Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin – basically the best in terms of industrial-luxury – both in terms of pricing as well as quality. But the design will likely continue to be polarising, though not quite as drastically as before.

The new Code 11.59 line up. Image – Audemars Piguet

Stamped guilloche

AP recruited Yann von Kaenel, the guillocheur who runs Décors Guillochés in Neuchatel, for the production of the new dials. Specialising in traditional engine turning, Mr von Kaenel created the dies for the stamping process via traditional methods, namely engraving via a hand-operated straight-line engine.

His traditional guilloche dies are then used to stamp the serially-produced dials of the Code 11.59, explaining the unexpectedly fine patterning that resembles a basketweave. According to AP, this level of detail would not be possible with stamping that relies on a conventionally produced die.

The stamped dials are then treated to create the resulting colours. The blue and green dials are achieved with PVD, increasingly the treatment of choice for metallic finishes. Notably, the blue dial is exactly the same shade “bleu nuit, nuage 50” (which translates as “night blue, cloud 50”) as found on the classic Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202.

But the standout “smoke beige”, on the other hand, is done with galvanic treatment, first to create the base colour and then with an additional step for the dark shading on the edges.

Stamped guilloche aside, a few other details about the dial are noteworthy. While the case is now steel, the new dials still feature hour markers and hands in 18k white gold.

And the date display has a disc in a complementary colour so that it isn’t too distracting. That said, the three-hand model outlines the date with a frame, making it more prominent, perhaps unnecessarily so.

Finally, the redesign also adds a second scale graduated in fractions of a second, giving the face a slightly more functional, instrument-like appearance that goes well with the case styling.

A first in steel

In a first for the model, the new offerings are entirely in steel, save for the “smoked beige” that gets a fancier combination of steel and ceramic. This gives the new models an easy lightness on the wrist.

The rest of the watch is identical to the earlier Code 11.59 models, save for the crown. It’s been redesigned to have softer edges, as well as shallower but more numerous fluting for better grip.

The case retains the sandwich-like construction that characterises the model. It’s essentially a bezel and back containing an octagonal case middle. This modular approach allows for easy variation in the case materials, as done with the “smoked beige” models that features a black ceramic middle.

And the case continues to incorporate the novel lug construction where the open-worked lugs are only welded to be bezel and gently rest on the case back. The complex approach to the case results in an impressively nuanced finish with lots of contrasting surfaces and detail, but one which also brings lots of dust trapped in obscure crevices.

The steel-and-ceramic case of the “smoked beige” dial

Mechanically the new Code 11.59 models are unchanged. The three-hand is still powered by the cal. 4302, while the chronograph contains the cal. 4401.

Both are derived from the same basic architecture that underpins AP’s latest-generation workhorse movement for its larger-diameter watches. They have all the features expected of a modern, high-end calibre, including a free-sprung balance and a long, 70-hour power reserve.

The cal. 4401 chronograph movement

Key facts and price

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding 41 mm
Ref. 15210ST.OO.A343KB.01 (blue)
Ref. 15210ST.OO.A056KB.01 (green)
Ref. 15210QT.OO.A064KB.01 (smoked beige)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 10.7 mm
Material: Steel; or black ceramic and steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 4302
Functions: Hours, minutes, centre seconds and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Rubber-backed leather strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At AP Houses and boutiques
Price: CHF21,000 for blue or green dials, CHF23,000 for smoked beige (prices exclude taxes)

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm
Ref. 26393ST.OO.A343KB.01 (bleu nuit, nuage 50)
Ref. 26393ST.OO.A056KB.01 (green)
Ref. 26393QT.OO.A064KB.01 (smoked beige)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.6 mm
Material: Steel; or black ceramic and steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 4401
Functions: Flyback chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Rubber-backed leather strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At AP Houses and boutiques
Price: CHF29,000 for blue or green; CHF31,000 for smoked beige (prices exclude taxes)

For more, visit Audemarspiguet.com.

Audemars Piguet (AP) just revealed its new launches for the year and one of the highlights is a new version of the classic Royal Oak “Jumbo”. Harking back to the uncommon “Tuscan” dial from three decades ago, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ultra-Thin in white gold boasts a grained blue dial.

Initial thoughts

At a distance, the new “Jumbo” looks like an average Royal Oak with its white metal case and blue dial. But on the hand, it is evidently different. It is still thin and elegant but wonderfully weighty thanks to the gold case and bracelet. Granted, the quintessential Royal Oak is a steel “Jumbo” but the white gold case leaves this feeling a bit more refined and sophisticated.

And then there’s the dial. With its granular surface, it is recognisably different from the average Royal Oak – and also easily beautiful. The PVD treatment gives it a gorgeous metallic blue that combines with the texture to catch the light nicely.

Although it is not a limited edition, this feels special, mostly due to the fact that it’s the only white gold “Jumbo” in the catalogue. There is another white metal “Jumbo” in the line up – the platinum model exclusive to AP Houses – but it has a green dial that feels a bit too fashionable. This grained blue dial, however, feels more like a classic.

The standard steel “Jumbo” is already an excellent watch, combining the perfect proportions of the original Royal Oak with the excellent cal. 7121. This version in white gold is arguably better with its discreetly patterned dial and the lustrous white gold case – but at a price of CHF65,000. It’s a substantial sum but in line with the “Jumbo” in pink or yellow gold, but this one is more special given the dial.

“Tuscan”

The grained dial is a departure from the petite tapisserie guilloche synonymous with the Royal Oak, but the stamped dial is historical, with roots in the “Tuscan” dials found on some Royal Oak models in the 1980s and 1990s.

While the origin of the nickname is lost to time, the “Tuscan” dial was reputedly the result of hand-hammering. Introduced sometime in the early 1980s, the “Tuscan” dial made its debut in AP’s round, classic perpetual calendar like the ref. 25657, but is now best known for being found in the Royal Oak perpetual calendar, like the ref. 25820 for instance. The dial was also found in the all-platinum Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 14802 Jubilee edition made for the model’s 30th anniversary.

The Royal Oak ref. 14802 in platinum. Image – Phillips

Now AP has replicated the “Tuscan” dial with modern techniques. The dial of the new “Jumbo” is stamped to create a “finer and brighter” grain according to AP, and then treated with PVD to give it a rich blue shade, one that’s darker than vintage “Tuscan” dials. The result is a granular surface in deep blue that sparkles at certain angles.

Texture aside, the rest of the dial is standard “Jumbo” with a printed AP logo under 12 o’clock along with the applied emblem at six. And like other current “Jumbo” models, this has date disc that matches the deep blue of the dial.

Historically, the “Tuscan” dial is most often seen Royal Oak models in white metals, though a few examples in yellow gold exist. And so the modern-day grained dial is fittingly installed in a white gold case.

This is the only white gold Royal Oak “Jumbo” in the catalogue, but it is otherwise identical to other “Jumbo” ref. 16202 models. The dimensions are classic “Jumbo” and extremely elegant: 39 mm in diameter and 8.1 mm in height. But the case and bracelet in white gold give this a luxurious heft that is absent on the steel model, but without the ostentation of the yellow or pink gold variants.

Inside is the cal. 7121 that made its first appearance last year during the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary. It is just as thin as its predecessor, but far more user friendly. The cal. 7121 features a quick-set date, a power reserve of 55 hours (longish considering the thinness and size), and a full balance bridge that improves stability and shock resistance.

Like all Royal Oak models produced from 2023 onwards, the new “Jumbo” is kitted out with a standard oscillating weight in 22k rose gold instead of the anniversary rotor found on watches made last year

Key facts and price

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ultra-Thin
Ref. 16202BC.OO.1240BC.02

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 8.1 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 7121
Functions: Hours, minutes, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: 18k white gold bracelet with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At AP Houses and boutiques
Price: CHF65,000 (excluding VAT)

For more, visit Audemarspiguet.com.

Audemars Piguet (AP) just launched over a dozen new models, ranging from the Royal Oak “Jumbo” with a grained dial to the first Offshore Chronograph with a ceramic bracelet. But one stands out despite being the smallest watch amongst the new launches. Dressed in yellow gold and a striking stone dial, the Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm Turquoise Dial is a throwback back to an earlier era when the Royal Oak was offered with a range of mineral stone dials.

Initial thoughts

Though relatively common in the 1970s and 1980s when stone dials were a thing, the turquoise-yellow gold combination is unusual today. But it has a certain timelessness so the combination remains attractive. In fact, it even feels current, a testament to the longevity of the Royal Oak design (and the current fad for robin-egg blue dials).

The watch is intrinsically attractive in its design and palette. The design is simple – almost minimalist in Royal Oak terms – but the watch has presence due to its colours. It is vibrant and loud, very much the opposite of, say the new “Jumbo” in white gold, which is decidedly low key in comparison.

One element I wish was different is the seconds hand – I would have preferred a two-hand dial as on the vintage Royal Oak models with stone dials. That simplicity would further accentuate the dial material.

The case does feel slightly small for a modern men’s watch. It is an acceptable size, but the dimensions of the model means it feels slightly smaller than it is (unlike the “Jumbo” that feels larger than its 39 mm diameter). The size, combined with the stone dial, gives it a retro feel, making it feel almost like a remake of a 1990s Royal Oak.

Still, it is a handsome, compact watch that costs CHF51,000, which is a reasonable proposition by Royal Oak standards. Naturally, the waitlist for this will be long, but it is certainly a compelling buy.

As an aside, the choice of turquoise versus any other mineral stone is almost certainly catering to the popularity of the colour, driven in large part by Patek Philippe’s limited-edition Nautilus for Tiffany & Co. It appears to be a smart move to boost the appeal of the mid-sized Royal Oak, which presumably doesn’t have the same draw as its larger or smaller counterparts.

Bringing back semiprecious stone

Mineral stone dials were popular in the two decades from the 1960s and are often found on assorted ultra-thin AP dress watches from the period, though Royal Oaks with stone dials are less common. The new Royal Oak is reminiscent of its historical counterparts, which were almost all mid-sized models with similar dimensions.

A Royal Oak ref. 14701BC from 1993 with a bloodstone dial and 36 mm case. Image – Phillips

Interestingly, while vintage Royal Oaks can be found with a variety of stone dial, turquoise is novel for the model. According to AP, the turquoise used here is slightly darker than usual and is characterised by faint veining.

Originating in Mexico – the stone was prized in ancient Mesoamerican culture – the turquoise used for the dial is processed in the usual manner for such dials. It’s first sliced into a flat disc, then polished with several techniques, the last of which is lapping with a fine abrasive paste to give it a glossy surface. Then the turquoise disc is secured to a brass base with adhesive, giving it strength and durability.

Impressively, almost all the elements on the dial are applied and secured with feet, which requires tiny holes to be drilled into the stone – a delicate process that often leads to cracks.

As is standard for the Royal Oak, the applied hour markers, hands, as well as the AP logo are solid 18k gold. Besides the solid-gold elements, the dial has a printed minute scale and discreet date at three with the date disc in a matching blue hue. As a result, the dial is  clean, allowing the natural grain of the stone to take centerstage.

The case is 18k yellow gold, an unusual metal for the current Royal Oak line-up where rose gold dominates, but a perfect fit for the dial colour and retro style of the watch.

The case design incorporates the tweaks first seen on Royal Oak 50th Anniversary models that debuted last year, including wider bevels on the edges of the case, as well as a more pronounced taper of the bracelet. These changes give the watch a slightly more defined outline.

Inside the case is the cal. 5900, one of AP’s latest-generation in-house movements. First seen last year in the Royal Oak 37 mm ref. 15550, the cal. 5900 is a compact movement with the typical features of the brand’s newest in-house calibres, namely a useful 60-hour power reserve and a free-sprung balance secured by a full bridge.

Key facts and price

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm Turquoise Dial
Ref. 15550BA.OO.1356BA.01

Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 8.9 mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 5900
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: 18k gold bracelet with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At AP boutiques and AP Houses
Price: CHF51,000 before taxes

For more, visit Audemarspiguet.com.

One of the “it” watches of the 1980s, Hublot’s porthole-inspired watch on a rubber strap has been revived. Forty-two years since the brand made its debut with the iconoclastic hublot watch – it was the first watch to combine a gold case and rubber strap – the brand is paying tribute to its founder Carlo Crocco with a new range modelled on the original design. Taking after the original in look and feel, the Classic Fusion Original collection comprises three sizes, each available in three material configurations.

Initial thoughts

Almost minimalist in its design, the Classic Fusion Original is simpler and sleeker than the typical Hublot. It is relatively compact and thin in all three sizes – the largest model is 10 mm high – giving it a surprisingly elegant profile on the wrist.

The no-frills design is strongly appealing, except for the date window, which isn’t too prominent but still unnecessary. And I would have gone even further in the minimalist direction by doing away with the seconds hand. That said, both the date and seconds are part of the original 1980 design.

Despite the clean styling, the watch is instantly recognisable as a Hublot. In fact, the Classic Fusion Original is arguably more distinctively Hublot than the some of the brand’s other models, which occasionally resemble offerings from Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille.

Starting at around US$8,000 in titanium with an automatic movement (the smallest, 33 mm versions are all quartz), the Classic Fusion Original is amongst the most affordable Hublot offerings.

Admittedly, it is relatively pricey for a watch equipped with a Sellita automatic, but while some of the competition might offer more sophisticated in-house calibres in the same price range, they lack the appealing style of the Classic Fusion Original.

The porthole

Founded as MDM Geneve by Carlo Crocco in 1980, Hublot gets its name from what was then it flagship product, a wristwatch with a bezel shaped like a porthole, or hublot in French. The original model was the first luxury wristwatch with a precious metal case and a rubber strap, a strikingly novel concept at the time.

Compact at just 36 mm in diameter, the original Hublot watch was thin, both in terms of the case and rubber strap, making it elegant and sporty in equal parts. The original was revived for the brand’s 40th anniversary in 2020, but with a 45 mm case.

The Hublot Classic from 1980. Image – Hublot

The Classic Fusion Original is essentially a scaled-down version of the 40th anniversary model. It has the same overall design and mostly the same details. I would have gotten rid of the date window at three, but otherwise I like the dial.

Like the anniversary model, the Classic Fusion Original reproduces the minimalist feel of the original by removing almost all superfluous elements from the dial. Finished with glossy black lacquer, the dial has just the Hublot logo at 12 o’clock. The glossy dial contrasts especially well with the bezel and helps to bring out its brushed finish.

Admittedly the emblem at 12 o’clock is oversized but the overall look remains restrained because the dial is otherwise free of other markings. But the dial is not quite as fancy as that in the 40th anniversary model, which had a substantial applied logo that was distinctly three-dimensional. In contrast, the logo on the Classic Fusion Original is almost flat.

The Classic Fusion Original has the same case as the standard Classic Fusion and thus the same case sizes of 33 mm, 38 mm, and 42 mm. All three sizes are slim and unusually sleek for a Hublot. Even the biggest version is thin at 10 mm high.

The largest 42 mm model is just right for modern tastes since it is big enough to be sporty but not quite oversized, while the 38 mm feels almost like the vintage original that was 36 mm.

Like most Hublot models, the Classic Fusion Original is available in titanium, Black Magic (a mix of black ceramic and black-coated titanium), or 18k yellow gold. All three materials have the black resin insert under the bezel that is a key part of the Hublot design, but the material (which is basically matte-black plastic) feels out of place in an expensive watch.

Being the most affordable, the titanium model is good value as far as Hublot goes, but the ceramic and gold versions are more appealing. The ceramic model is quintessential Hublot in its all-black finish, while the yellow gold version is a perfect homage to the 1980s original that was similarly available in various metals but also most appealing in gold.

While Hublot does have a stable of in-house movements, including time-only calibres, the Classic Fusion models are mostly Sellita powered. So it’s no surprise the Classic Fusion Original 38 mm and 42 mm are powered by the HUB1110, which is actually a Sellita SW300-1 fitted with a Hublot-branded rotor. (The 33 mm model is powered by the HUB2913, probably an ETA quartz movement.)

A clone of the ETA 2892, the SW300-1 is a tried-and-tested calibre, but it’s been around a long time so it has a short power reserve of only 42 hours. The movement offers both reliability and ease of service, but it isn’t impressive.

It’s an acceptable choice in the somewhat-affordable titanium and ceramic versions of the Classic Fusion Original, though the watch would have been much compelling with a more sophisticated calibre, even for a slightly higher price.

The final noteworthy element of the Classic Fusion Original is the double-fold clasp, a big improvement over the single-fold clasp that is standard issue for Hublot. Not only is it less bulky on the wrist, the double-fold clasp is more comfortable. And it is also easier to achieve a comfortable fit with the double-fold clasp.

That said, this clasp requires the rubber strap to be cut down to size, meaning that the strap size is largely fixed once it has been adjusted since it can only be made smaller and not larger. But the increased comfort certainly makes it worth it.

And it’s also worth pointing out that the new clasp has more refined finishing than the standard buckle, which has lots of sharp edges.

The double-fold clasp features bevelled edges

Key facts and price

Hublot Classic Fusion Original 42, 38 and 33 mm

Diameter: 42 mm, 38 mm, or 33 mm
Height: 10 mm, 9.85 mm, or 8.5 mm
Material: Titanium, black ceramic or 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: HUB1110 (42 and 38 mm), HUB2913 (33 mm)
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic (42 and 38 mm), quartz (33 mm)
Power reserve: Approximately 42 hours (42 and 38 mm)

Strap: Rubber strap with buckle clasp

Limited edition: 4,500 pieces, with 500 examples for each model
Availability: At Hublot boutiques and retailers beginning January 2023
Price: 

42 mm, titanium: US$8,200
38 mm, titanium: US$7,900
33 mm, titanium: US$6,500

42 mm, black ceramic: US$10,000
38 mm, black ceramic: US$8,500
33 mm, black ceramic: US$7,300

42 mm, 18k yellow gold: US$24,100
38 mm, 18k yellow gold: US$20,500
33 mm, 18k yellow gold: US$17,800

For more, visit Hublot.com.