With 2022 revenue of S$716.9 million (equivalent to US$532 million), Cortina Watch is one of the world’s biggest watch retailers. It was founded in 1972 as a single store but has grown into a regional giant with stores across Southeast Asia as well as outposts in Taiwan and Australia.

Cortina marked its 50th anniversary this year with a slew of limited editions that reflect its importance, including the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5057 made specifically for it. Though publicly listed, the company remains controlled by the founding Lim family, with the third generation having recently joined the business. A crucial member of management is Jeremy Lim, the younger son of Cortina founder Anthony Lim. Jeremy helms the business alongside his siblings Raymond and Sharon.

I spoke with Jeremy recently to uncover the factors behind the longevity and success of Cortina.

Three generations of the Lim family, with Jeremy Lim second from left. Image – Cortina Watch

SJX: When Cortina was founded 50 years ago by your father, it was one of many watch stores in Singapore. But now Cortina is one of the few left, in fact it’s one of the biggest in the region. What is the secret to the longevity and success?

Jeremy Lim (JL): We were lucky that we had a lot of help from the family when my dad started the business with my mom. [My brother] Raymond started early in the business, then my sister got interested in the business as well, and subsequently I was reeled in.

The old school method of family business was just one or two shops so the founder can keep his eye on them. But with our extended family it allowed us to grow in the region. We have an aunt that runs the business in Hong Kong and initially we also had an uncle in Malaysia. And we were able to build in places like Taiwan, Thailand, and Indonesia with our local partners there.

Then we brought in professionals to run the business after we went public [in 2002]. This transition was very, very important. If the transition did not happen, I would say we probably be stuck with a few stores.

SJX: But it wasn’t all smooth sailing for 50 years. Many of the retailers that were once big names are no longer around.

JL: Like all businesses we had our ups and downs. There’s no single secret that makes things work. We were lucky the family had a passion for the business, whereas it might have been that the next generation at other retailers lost touch with the watch business.

The Patek Philippe ref. 5057G made for Cortina’s 50th anniversary

SJX: Family is clearly central to your business. And it seems like the case for many important players across the industry. Many big retailers are family-owned and also some of the most important watch brands like Patek Philippe.

JL: Exactly, Wempe, Bucherer, Seddiqi…

SJX: In fact, Watches of Switzerland is public and owned by institutions but it is the exception rather than the norm.

JL: This business is very much about personal relationships. When you have the family [that owns a watch brand] in town, they get a lot of attention from us and we can do business. They can speak for the brand without having to go through levels of management. The working relationship is easy; they keep their word when they say yes.

We also deal with professional managers, but over the decades as we work with certain brands or groups of brands, it seems like every three years they change the managing director and every 20 years they change the CEO. When that happens, we don’t know the next person is going to continue on certain things that we agreed upon [with his or her predecessor].

Jeremy Lim at the Patek Philippe boutique in ION Orchard operated by Cortina Watch. Image – Cortina Watch

SJX: So you’re saying is it’s easier to build a long-term relationship with a fellow family-owned business because both of you are in for the long haul?

JL: Exactly. It’s why the working relationship with, for example, Chopard or Patek Philippe is fantastic. When we have a problem, we drop each other an email or call, then we try to find the middle ground. Decisions will be made, and they’ll be on it. It is not necessarily easier, but at least we know that there is a long-term perspective in terms of what we do. And I think it’s just mutual respect [for each other as family-owned companies].

For example, [a major, family-owned brand] decided that they needed to reduce their retail network so they closed one of our points-of-sale. It was a big blow but there was respect in terms of how it was done. We were given a year’s advance notice.

And it so happened that the closure was scheduled for March 2020 and the pandemic happened – lockdown and everything ceased. So I made a call to the brand and asked for an extension so we had time to pivot. They were generous enough to say yes. That made sure our people still had their jobs in the midst of the pandemic. Not all brands do it this way.

Karl-Friedrich and Christine Scheufele of Chopard with Mr and Mrs Anthony Lim. Image – Cortina Watch

SJX: How are you helping the next generation of the Lim family develop such relationships with the brands?

JL: We try to be inclusive with the next generation. For example, when we had lunch recently with [Karl-Friedrich] Scheufele and dinner with [Thierry] Stern, we included them.

I’m open to letting the next generation coming in to learn how I do things because I was given this chance when I joined. My brother gave me a lot of opportunities to prove myself. And my parents also give us a lot of chances, even when we made bad decisions.

[The next generation] needs to be curious about what we do, how we do it, and how we make decisions. Decisions are not always correct, but if it was a bad decision then you make sure it was a calculated risk.

I was given the opportunity, and I don’t see why I should not be giving that opportunity to the next generation. The more they get involved, the quicker I can I can retire. [laughs]

The unique Patek Philippe Dome Clock depicting the Singapore skyline made for Cortina’s anniversary

SJX: Earlier you mentioned the ups and downs of the business. A recession seems to be on the cards after many good years. Maybe because of the goods years, brands have been closing retailers and opening more of their own stores. What are your thoughts about these happenings that seem to happen with every economic cycle?

JL: We always try to work with as many brands as possible. Because one day, we know some brands will close us and run their own boutiques – we have gone through that before. Or even now there are some plans by some groups that want to do their multi-brand boutiques.

We are ready for the challenge, because we have embraced a lot of brands. Sometimes our partners say we have too many brands in the store. But it’s a defence mechanism because it only means that we are not reliant on a group of brands or one or two brands. If a brand decides to go it alone, we can replace them. And that is also what we are doing with Sincere; it’s a platform to embrace the independent brands.

SJX: This is basically diversification…

JL: Yes, diversify, but not outside of the watch industry. We are still very much into watches, but we don’t want to be reliant on one single or group.

SJX: Next year might not be good for industries outside of watchmaking either…

JL: We have had a good run. I think some in our business have forgotten what a recession is. But we should be fine because the demand I see demand [on the primary market] is still strong and it’s not just going to be gone overnight. As long as the industry doesn’t increase production like crazy, the industry should hold up quite well.

The Cartier Baignoire for Cortina’s anniversary

SJX: Last question. The big European retailers like Watches of Switzerland and Bucherer, have been expanding out of their traditional markets in the last few years.  Do you have plans to continue expanding, even outside of your traditional markets?

JL: The question is, what is our traditional market? Southeast Asia? We are already in Taiwan and Australia. So we are already a bit out of our comfort zone.

We go where we see opportunity. Vietnam is important. The emergence of Cambodia gives it potential as well. And there’s still a lot of room to move in Indonesia, where we are already present. And then of course with Franck Muller, Australia is something we can grow.

And what about China? Is there a dominant player in watch retail? Not really. A lot of the important locations are operated by the brands themselves. So China may be a possibility but it’s not something we are thinking about yet.

Expansion is also about control. Are we able to run a company, say, in the United States? I don’t know. I’d probably say no at this point. For one, the time zone difference is huge.

SJX: Is this something you’ll send the next generation to establish?

JL: Maybe it’s too early for them to venture out because it’s been tough for them to gain international experience with the pandemic. They’ve been with the company for three or four years, but two years were wasted because nobody could travel. Hopefully they’ll do that in the next few years. The quicker they take over from me, the more I can play golf. [laughs]

Continuing with the series of limited editions for its 50th anniversary, Singapore retailer Cortina has just debuted a new take on one of Cartier’s most overlooked timepieces, the Baignoire Allongée MM “Cortina Watch Golden Jubilee Edition”.

A limited edition of just ten watches, the new Baignoire Allongée retains the classic form, but with a subtle twist in the form of a “50” in Cortina’s corporate colour, while the case is tastefully set with diamonds.

Initial thoughts

Cartier has evidently realised a new generation of watch enthusiasts has discovered its classic shapes, explaining its frequent reissues and reinterpretations of famous models. The new Baignoire Allongée is classic Cartier, both in terms of form and design, as well as the discreet details that make it a limited edition.

When I first saw this Baignoire Allongée, the first thing that came to mind was its elegant, timeless look. It could equally be a mid-century watch or even one from the 1920s. At the same time, as is often the case with Cartier’s form watches, one immediately notices how different it is from other bejewelled watches, which are often flashy and loud.

Notably, the Baignoire Allongée Cortina retails for just under US$40,000, an eminently reasonable ask considering its diamond-set case as well as in-house movement.

While it is expected that this limited model will immediately sell out, the Baignoire Allongée is unique enough that I hope it will return, particularly in a larger format as a men’s watch. In fact, I wish Cortina had created a pair of limited editions for its anniversary, this medium-sized model for women, and an extra-large size without diamonds for men.

Returning to a classic

Cartier London released the Baignoire Allongée in the late 1960s as an oversized variation of the original, compact Baignoire that was unveiled in 1957. The original, in turn, was inspired by an earlier timepiece made for Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna in 1912.

The artisans of Cartier’s London outpost conceptualised the Baignoire Allongée in the Swinging Sixties, the same period that gave birth to the Crash and Pebble. The elongated shape takes its cues from a bathtub – hence baignoire, which translates as “bathtub” – while the Arabic numerals on the dial add a touch of classicism. Only a handful of London originals were produced in the 1970s, but the Baignoire Allongée has recently enjoyed a revival.

In 2021, a previously unknown example in white gold sold for a record €364,000 at auctioneer Monaco Legends. And earlier this year, a more conventional yellow gold example from 1969 sold for US$176,775 at Bonhams. It is unsurprising that Cortina chose this emblematic timepiece for its Golden Jubilee lineup.

The Cortina edition is a medium-sized Baignoire Allongée and retains the oversized feel of the 1960s original. But a few details have been tweaked for this limited edition. For one, the 18k rose gold case bears a commemorative engraving on the case back. And of course the bezel is diamond pavé, while the crown is topped with a diamond cabochon, giving the watch a regal presence.

More unusually, the silvered opaline dial has Arabic numerals in brown, but the five o’clock marker has been replaced by burgundy “50”, a reference to the anniversary.

Like the standard models in the present lineup, the new Baignoire Allongée is powered by manual-wind cal. 1917 MC, a small in-house movement developed for ladies’ watches with narrow cases that’s also found in the Tank Louis Cartier. The compact size of the movement explains its relatively short 38 hours of power reserve.

Key Facts and Price

Cartier Baignoire Allongée MM “Cortina Watch Golden Jubilee Edition”
Ref. 278426CX

Diameter: 47 mm by 21 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: 18k rose gold, set with diamonds
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 1917 MC
Functions: Hours, minutes
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Burgundy alligator leather strap with an 18k pink gold pin buckle

Limited edition: 10 pieces
Availability: Only at Cortina Watch
Price: 56,500 Singapore dollars including GST (equivalent to US$39,900)

For more, visit 50thanniversary.cortinawatch.com.

Singapore watch retailer Cortina continues with its roll-out of special watches to mark its golden jubilee. Following limited editions from Blancpain, Patek Philippe, and H. Moser & Cie. comes the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Cortina Watch. While it might sound like yet another vintage-inspired chronograph, the latest Carrera is unlike anything TAG Heuer has done before.

Instead of the usual steel, the case is 18k yellow gold, while the dial is made of maw sit sit, a little-known green gemstone found only in the northern parts of Myanmar. And the hour markers and hands are of course 18k yellow gold to match.

Initial thoughts

The base-model Carrera powered by the in-house Heuer 02 calibre is an appealing watch to begin with, especially in steel where it’s an affordable proposition with a historical design. But it is primarily a practical, everyday watch, which is arguably what it should be given its history as a motorsports chronograph. The Cortina edition, however, is the opposite. It is pricey, very much so in fact, but it is special.

Green is the fashionable colour in watchmaking now, so you might be forgiven for feeling weary when faced with yet another dial in the colour. But green dials certainly capture the zeitgeist of today, and perhaps personify the “hype” watch culture exemplified by the famous olive-dial sports watch. The new Carrera, in contrast, runs counter to that. It is definitely green, but the natural stone dial means it is a intrinsically valuable shade of green with a tangible quality.

The integrated, vertical-clutch chronograph movement with column wheel that was developed in house

The execution combining yellow gold and the green gemstone is spot on, instantly setting it apart from the typical TAG Heuer chronograph and most other sports chronographs in fact. Granted, all that comes at a price of several multiples of the steel version, which will limit its appeal to a tiny number of enthusiasts.

But the cost is arguably justified by the gold case and more importantly, the dial material. The rarity of the material, as well as the watch itself – only 10 will be made – will speak to a niche of TAG Heuer collectors who want something different.

Maw sit sit

The dial is made of maw sit sit, a stone made up of several minerals, including jadeite with high chromium content, which gives it the characteristic dark green colour. And its black veining gives the material a richly textured appearance.

Often confused with jade, maw sit sit is in fact an entirely different species. Though more muted in colour than the greenest of jade, maw sit sit  is actually more rare. It’s a found only in northern Myanmar and gets its name from the village where it was first discovered, Maw Sit Sit near the base of the Himalayas.

While the highlight of the Carrera is the gemstone dial, the rest of the dial is equally fancy. All the hands as well as the hour markers are in 18k yellow gold, while all of the markings on the dial are in gold-powder print. And the two registers for the chronograph are in black, making this a “panda” dial of sorts.

The hour markers have multiple facets, which is especially obvious on the double-baton market at 12 o’clock

Key Facts and Price

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Cortina Watch Limited Edition
Ref. CBN2043.EB0261

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Calibre Heuer 02
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Black alligator with pin buckle, additional strap in brown alligator

Limited edition: 10 pieces
Availability: Only at Cortina Watch
Price: 59,200 Singapore dollars including GST (equivalent to US$41,500)

For more, visit 50thanniversary.cortinawatch.com.

As Cortina Watch celebrates its Golden Jubilee this year, it has progressively rolled out a series of commemorative editions, including a pair from Patek Philippe in the form of a unique Dome Clock (that’s unfortunately not for sale) and a special Calatrava ref. 5057G (that fortunately is).

Now the Singapore retailer has taken the covers off its most extravagant anniversary edition yet, the Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary. The anniversary lineup is made up of five unique versions of Franck Muller’s triple-axis tourbillon wristwatch, each set with 28.4 carats of baguette-cut gemstones. One of the five watches is complete – the others are still being put together – and is on display at an exhibition in Singapore taking place from now till September 13, 2022.

The diamond-set version with a rainbow-finished movement that’s now on show in Singapore

Initial thoughts

Franck Muller is one of the leading practitioners of lavishly-jewelled complicated watches, while Cortina Watch has long been a champion of high-jewellery watches, so the anniversary Vanguard tourbillons make sense both ways. While the large-format bling has a niche appeal, the Vanguard Revolution 3 movement is interesting in itself.

In fact, the movement is quintessentially Franck Muller in how it highlights the tourbillon. Here the tourbillon regulator is less about mechanics than visual spectacle. Not only does the tourbillon twi-axial and spherical, it also features twin retrograde minute scales that track the rotation of its constituent ages. And in a smart use of the ample space within the large case, the movement has a huge mainspring that gives it an impressive 10-day power reserve.

The Vanguard Revolution 3 movement freed of its case

Putting on a show

Fittingly for such an extravagant watch, the Cortina Anniversary tourbillon utilises the largest Vanguard case size that measures 46 mm by 55.9 mm and stands 13.7 mm, resulting in ample room for the 225 baguette-cut gemstones on the case.

Evolved from the brand’s signature tonneau-shaped case, the Vanguard does away with the lugs and instead has the strap integrated into the case. Another key feature of the case design are the anodised aluminium inserts on the case flank.

The diamond-set version has red inserts on the case side

The FM 2030 SMR-VS movement features a triple-axis tourbillon at six o’clock. Its innermost cage makes one revolution every minute, the intermediate cage does the same in eight minutes, while the outermost cage takes 60 minutes to complete one cycle.

Accompanying the cages on their revolutions are a pair of retrograde minute indicators on each side of the tourbillon. The display at four o’clock is connected to the intermediate axis and tracks it eight-minute rotation, while the display at eight o’clock does the same for the 60-minute cage.

And thanks to an enormous mainspring sitting at 12 o’clock that occupies almost half the movement’s volume, the Vanguard Revolution 3 has a ten-day power reserve shown on a display that sits over the mainspring.

Three of the five unique Vanguard tourbillons are set with diamonds but distinguished by the coloured finish on the movement. The remaining two, however, are perhaps even more striking because they are entirely covered in coloured gemstones. One is set with baguette-cut emeralds and the other, baguette-cut rubies.

The diamond-set anniversary tourbillon is the centrepiece of the Franck Muller Cortina Watch Golden Jubilee exhibition now taking place at Paragon Shopping Centre long Orchard Road. Focused on jewelled and complicated timepieces, the exhibition is on show from September 1-13 and open to the public daily from 11 am-8 pm.

From left: Nicholas Rudaz of Franck Muller; Sharon Lim and Jeremy Lim of Cortina Watch

The exhibition in the main atrium of Paragon

Key Facts and Price

Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary

Diameter: 46 mm by 55.9 mm
Height: 13.7 mm
Material: 18k white gold set with baguette-cut gemstones (diamonds, emeralds, or rubies)
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: FM 2030 SMR-VS
Features: Hours, minutes, retrograde minutes on two scales, power reserve indicator, and triple-axis tourbillon
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Hand wind
Power reserve: 10 days

Strap: Alligator clad rubber strap with diamond-set pin buckle

Limited edition: Five unique pieces
Availability: Only at Cortina Watch
Price: Starting at 1.5 million Singapore dollars (equivalent to US$1.08 million)

For more, visit 50thanniversary.cortinawatch.com.

A great deal of meaning is placed on anniversaries in watchmaking and Cortina Watch is celebrating its Golden Jubilee in 2022 with a slew of limited edition watches and a very special clock.

The latest timepiece for the Singapore retailer’s milestone anniversary is the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”. A variant of the Endeavour tourbillon, this 10-piece limited edition watch features the brand’s signature fumé dial in blue, along with a one-minute flying tourbillon equipped with an uncommon cylindrical hairspring. 

Initial thoughts

The watch combines the elegant and minimal design typical of Moser with the more contemporary that results from the cleanly open-worked movement. And despite being based on an existing model that was just introduced in March of this year, the Cortina edition is still impressive, largely thanks to the skeletonised movement.

The cylindrical hairspring maybe be an anachronistic novelty rather than a practical innovation, but one that is rare in modern watchmaking, visually interesting, and historically significant, being rooted in 19th century marine chronometers.

Moser aesthetics

At 42 mm in diameter, the Cortina edition has the same dimensions as the standard model in white gold. In contrast, the Cortina version is in 18k red gold. Time is indicated on a domed sub-dial at 12 o’clock with the graduated “Funky Blue” finish that is synonymous with Moser. But unlike most other Moser watches that lean towards the cleanly contemporary, the sub-dial for the time has classical Roman numerals and leaf-shaped hands.

The combination of a dome sapphire crystal and skeletonized dial allows the movement to be viewed unobstructed

Right below the time display is a one-minute tourbillon secured by the wide “V” bridge that is a Moser trademark. But the bridge is taller than usual to accommodate a cylindrical hairspring with Breguet curves at each end.

Historically found in marine chronometers, the vertically coiled hairspring beats in a more consistently concentric motion than an ordinary flat hairspring, resulting in better isochronism, which means the balance beats more regularly regardless of power reserve or position. And of course the hairspring is essentially in-house, having been manufactured by Precision Engineering, the sister company of Moser.

The case back is sapphire and reveals the reverse of the HMC 811, an automatic with a full rotor. It has a generous power reserve of 74 hours and employs the efficient pawl-based winding system better known as “Magic Lever”.

Less obvious commemorative printing on the sapphire back would have certainly made the movement easier to admire

Key Facts and Price

H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”
Ref. 1811-0400

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.8 mm including crystal
Material: 18k red gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: HMC 811
Functions: Hours, minutes, and tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power Reserve: 74 hours

Strap: Brown alligator strap with red gold folding clasp

Limited Edition: 10 pieces
Availability: Only from Cortina Watch
Price: 165,000 Singapore dollars including GST

For more, visit 50thanniversary.cortinawatch.com.

Created for the 50th anniversary of Cortina Watch, which is also marking the occasion with a special Patek Philippe Calatrava, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary is an elegantly different take on Blancpain’s vintage-inspired dive watch. With a titanium case matched with a bezel and crown in fade-resistant Sedna gold, the Cortina edition dresses up the functional style of the ordinarily no-frills Bathyscaphe.

Originally launched in 2013 as the entry-level – and most compact – model in the Fifty Fathoms collection, the Bathyscaphe was previously only available in single materials, making this two-tone version a first. In fact, the Bathyscaphe Cortina the first Blancpain dive watch with a bi-metal case, but it’ll probably not be the last since the combination is appealing.

The hands and hour indices are also 18k Sedna gold

Initial thoughts

The Bathyscaphe is a handsome watch that has good proportions. It doesn’t feel as large as it measures and wears well. And it is especially lightweight in titanium, so it sits easily on the wrist.

In its original variants the Bathyscaphe is muted (in either the steel, ceramic, or titanium versions), or expensive and shiny (in Sedna gold). The Cortina edition is a useful variation on the theme that’s still restrained, but with a little bit of shine.

The Sedna gold accents work especially well on the watch because of its retro style. They bring to mind vintage dive watches with “gilt” dials.

Admittedly, however, the retro design is a stereotypical dive watch. Even though the Bathyscaphe is modelled on a vintage Blancpain diver of the same name, the original was fairly generic and typical of the scuba diver’s watches of its period. Still, the Bathyscaphe is an attractive design that’s recognisable as a Blancpain, and here it’s been made even better with the gold accents.

As expected of Blancpain, the Bathyscaphe Cortina is excellent in both fit and finish. The case is precisely milled and finely finished, while the movement is high spec – it has an impressive five-day power reserve – and decorated well. Every element of the watch is executed as well as it should be for the price, with some aspects even better than expected.

The watch does have a few niggles that I would have done without. One is the glossy finish on the dial instead of matte, and another is the anniversary text printed on the case back that gets in the way of the view. At the same time, I would have preferred a bracelet as standard, instead of the canvas strap.

But overall the Bathyscaphe Cortina is an appealing watch that’s surprisingly well priced considering the materials and quality. Compared to other recent dive watches in the same price range, like the Panerai Radiomir Bronzo, it is strong value.

Added lustre

At 43 mm in diameter and 13.4 mm high, the Bathyscaphe is a largish watch but surprisingly feels smaller than it is. The dimensions are pretty much ideal for that it is. Compared to the Fifty Fathoms ref. 5015 that’s 45 mm by 15.4 mm, the Bathyscaphe is positively compact.

The case middle and back are titanium, while the rotating bezel and crown are Sedna gold. That’s just enough gold for it to stand out, but not so much that it’s excessive. From across the room this still looks like a low-key, functional watch.

While the Bathyscaphe does have the generic look of a dive watch with a rotating bezel, it is distinguished by its materials and finish.

As is typical with many of the brands owned by Swatch Group, Blancpain pays attention to materials. And so it is with the Bathyscaphe, which uses Ti23 for the case. The most widely used titanium alloy for watch cases is Grade 5, or Ti-6Al-4V.

Ti23, also known as Ti-6Al-4V ELI, is a variant of Grade 5 with a slightly different composition of “Extra Low Interstitials”, hence the “ELI” suffix. This means Ti23 has less oxygen and iron, resulting in improved biocompatibility, toughness, and strength. The tangible benefits of using Ti23 in a watch case are probably nil, but the esoteric alloy is still a point of appeal and illustrates Blancpain’s devotion to materials science (as well as that of its parent).

Similarly, the gold accents are not merely ordinarily red gold, but instead Sedna gold. Fade resistant due to the addition of palladium, the proprietary alloy will retain its coppery tinge unlike conventional red gold that dulls over time due to chlorine in the air.

The alloy is mostly associated with Omega, which debuted the metal and uses it extensively across its offerings. Being part of the same group, Blancpain has used the metal for a few of its dive watches, where the alloy’s fade-resistant properties presumably become most useful since such watches will probably spend time in swimming pools.

Besides the materials, the case also excels in terms of finishing. The edges and lines are precisely milled and neatly finished to a high standard, a quality of work that is most evident on the ends of the lugs and the ceramic bezel.

Unsurprisingly, the bezel is another example of technology synonymous with Omega. The bezel insert is Ceragold, essentially a ceramic disc with its engraved markings inlaid with 18k Sedna gold then polished so that the gold inlay is flush with the surface. The surface of the bezel is so perfectly finished it is entirely seamless.

The Bathyscaphe Cortina is sold on a canvas strap with a Sedna gold buckle. A matching all-titanium bracelet is available, but only as an add-on purchase. I would have much preferred the bracelet as standard since it completes the package, both in terms of aesthetics and utility. Also, the compact size of the Bathyscaphe means the addition of a bracelet doesn’t feel like too much metal.

Considering the pin buckle is 18k Sedna gold, I assume doing away with the buckle would have helped amortise the cost of an all-titanium bracelet. On the other hand, a titanium bracelet costs an extra US$2,500 or so on the standard model, so I expect it will cost about US$3,000 to buy separately. That’s a hefty sum but the Bathyscaphe bracelet is solidly constructed and is probably worth the stretch for most.

The pin buckle is 18k Sedna gold

Sedna gold comes courtesy of Omega, explaining the twin brand hallmarks on the back of the buckle

Brushed and glossy

The dial of the Bathyscaphe Cortina is similar to that of the titanium model, which means it has a vertically brushed finish. Other versions of the Bathyscaphe have a more conventional radial brushed finish.

The vertically brushed finish is pronounced, making it apparent even at arm’s length. It gives the dial a slightly industrial aesthetic that suits the style and purpose.

However, the dial also has a glossy finish that doesn’t quite go with the style. A flat, matte black would have complemented the vertical brushing much better.

In fact, the black dial seems slightly shinier than the brushed grey dial on the titanium model. If that was intentional then it was a misstep, but it might just be a consequence of the different colour.

But the key point of difference on the dial are the hands and applied hour markers in 18k Sedna gold – these look good. The gold bits are striking, but also improve legibility due to their stark contrast against the black dial.

And then there’s perennial point of controversy on vintage-inspired dive watches – should a date be included? Here it sits between four and five but not quite at the edge of the dial, leaving it looking a little awkward.

Fortunately the date disc is black so it doesn’t stand out too much but the design would still be better without it.

Piguet powered

Like the standard model, this is powered by the cal. 1315. The only difference on the back between the Cortina edition and standard version is the anniversary label printed on the underside of the sapphire back, which unfortunately partly obscures the movement details. Still the movement is worth a look because it is executed unusually well for an ostensibly utilitarian watch.

Developed as a sophisticated but workhorse movement, the cal. 1315 the simplest calibre in a family that includes several more complicated movements, including examples featuring a big date or triple calendar. Like many of Blancpain’s movements, the cal. 1315 has a simple, monochromatic appearance but reveals notable details both functional and decorative up close.

Although the Bathyscaphe is an entry-level dive watch, the cal. 1315 is impressively high-spec. For one, it has a long power reserve of 120 hours, which is five days, a result of three barrels.

It’s also equipped with a free-sprung, adjustable mass balance of Blancpain’s own design. The balance is relatively small, a key factor behind the long power reserve.

Like many of Blancpain’s current movements, the cal. 1315 is also fitted with a silicon hairspring that’s immune to the effects of magnetism, explaining the “antimagnetic” label engraved on the case back.

The movement decoration is appears simple because it lacks contrast. The most obvious decorative element is the solid gold rotor, but even that has been dressed in a discreet matte grey.

But under magnification the movement is evidently finished well, especially considering the nature of the Bathyscaphe and its price. The bridges have a fine radial graining with prominent, polished bevelling.

Because the bridges are numerous, there is a substantial length of bevelling across the movement. The bevelling appears to have been first done by machine, then given a once over by a hand-held polishing tool to create a rounded, mirrored finish.

The densely arranged bridges mean that little beneath is visible, but based on images of disassembled Blancpain movements I’ve seen, I expect the hidden components to be equally neatly finished.

Concluding thoughts

Excellent in all tangible respects of finishing and details, the Bathyscaphe Cortina is good looking and well priced. It also manages to look recognisably different from the standard version thanks to the Sedna gold elements. A bracelet, however, would have been ideal.

Key Facts and Price

Diameter: 43 mm
Thickness: 13.4 mm
Material: Titanium and 18k Sedna gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 300 m

Movement: Cal. 1315
Functions: Hours, minutes, and dates
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 120 hours

Strap: Canvas strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: Only at Cortina Watch
Price: 20,700 Singapore dollars including GST (equivalent to about US$15,000)

For more, visit 50thanniversary.cortinawatch.com.

Singapore retailer Cortina Watch is marking its 50th year in 2022 with progressive launches of anniversary editions, which started with the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5057G that made its debut at the beginning of the year. Now it’s the turn of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary, the first of the brand’s dive watches to feature a two-tone case in titanium and 18k Sedna gold.

Initial thoughts

The Bathyscaphe is probably the best looking amongst Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms range of dive watches. It has the right degree of retro style, while also being relatively compact and wearable. And it avoids being too different, too vintage, or too big, as many of other Fifty Fathoms divers are; the Bathyscaphe is just right in many ways.

The new edition is a modest variation on the original, but a good one. In contrast to the almost-monochromatic standard model, this version looks a little fancier without being over the top thanks to its gold elements.

At the same time, the gold parts are balanced; the bezel, for instance, is set off by the gold crown. But the look is restrained with the brushed bezel insert and dial, so it doesn’t stray too far from the original.

What the watch is missing, however, is a bracelet as it is delivered on a fabric strap as standard. Blancpain does have a titanium bracelet available as an additional purchase, however, it is not two tone though it should pair well with this watch.

Retro diver

Though inspired by the vintage dive watch of the same name, the modern-day Bathyscaphe is, well, a modern watch and not a remake. It retains many design cues of the vintage original, but still looks and feels like a contemporary watch.

The standard Bathyscaphe is a fairly muted watch in grey and black. This edition dials it up with the bezel, crown, hands, and hour indices in 18k Sedna gold.

The Sedna gold hour markers are applied on the vertically brushed dial

The alloy is better known as Omega’s proprietary rose gold alloy that includes a healthy amount of palladium, preventing it from fading with time as typical rose gold alloys do. Blancpain has used Sedna gold in the past, but only for the entire watch case and not in a two-tone combination until now.

Another bit of Omega tech in the watch is the bezel insert, which is brushed ceramic. The markings on the bezel are Ceragold, which is 18k gold that’s embedded and bonded to the ceramic base, then polished so that the markings are flush with the bezel surface. Omega is of course Blancpain’s sister company in Swiss watch conglomerate Swatch Group.

Despite being a relatively unusual edition, the anniversary branding is discreetly placed only on the case back in the form of printing on the underside of the crystal. Unfortunately it gets in the way of the view.

The movement is the cal. 1315, Blancpain’s in-house calibre with a lengthy, five-day power reserve. Like all Blancpain movements, it has a clean, workmanlike finish that is amongst the best in the category.

Key Facts and Price

Diameter: 43 mm
Thickness: 13.4 mm
Material: Titanium and 18k Sedna gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 300 m

Movement: Cal. 1315
Functions: Hours, minutes, and dates
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 120 hours

Strap: Canvas strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: Only at Cortina Watch
Price: 20,700 Singapore dollars including GST (equivalent to about US$15,000)

For more, visit 50thanniversary.cortinawatch.com.

Longtime Patek Philippe retailer in Singapore Cortina Watch marks its 50th anniversary in 2022 with a series of limited edition watches, including the Calatrava ref. 5057G, a remake a 1997 reference created expressly for Cortina by Patek Philippe.

But besides the 100-piece ref. 5057G, Patek Philippe created something even more special for the occasion, the Dome Clock ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline”. Like most Dome Clocks, the Singapore Skyline is a unique piece decorated entirely in enamel, primarily cloisonné but also gold powder and paillons.

The clock bears a commemorative engraving on its base

The 50th anniversary clock is not for sale, instead it will join Cortina’s own collection that already includes the Dome Clock ref. 1677M “The Esplanade – Singapore”. Created in 2015 for Singapore’s 50th year of independence, the “Esplanade” Dome Clock served as inspiration for the Singapore Skyline – together the two Dome Clocks form a perfect pair.

Initial thoughts

Patek Philippe may be most famous today for its sports watches, but its Dome Clocks are just as emblematic of the brand. In terms of large-format timekeepers the Dome Clock is amongst the most recognisable in horology, ranking alongside the Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos and Cartier Mystery Clock as an iconic design. At the same time, Dome Clocks are exceedingly rare, with perhaps a dozen made every year.

Within Patek Philippe’s repertoire of timepieces, Dome Clocks are the most artistic. Each Dome Clock is essentially four panels and one dome of hand-made, artisanal decoration executed on a scale several times the size of a wristwatch dial – it’s essentially outsized canvas for artisanal decoration.

The Singapore Skyline is strikingly vibrant in its colours and motif, making it entirely apt for Cortina’s jubilee. It captures the quintessential Singapore landscape, which in turn reflects Cortina’s roots in the country. All in all, it’s a beautifully executed object portraying a theme perfectly matched to the occasion.

Historical Dome Clocks are displayed prominently in the Patek Philippe Museum. Image – Patek Philippe

Festive Singapore

One of the biggest retailers in Asia, Cortina has a network of stores across Southeast Asia, as well as Patek Philippe boutiques in Hong Kong and Taiwan. Founded in 1972 and still run by the founding Lim family, Cortina became a Patek Philippe retailer six years later and is now one of the Geneva brand’s key partners in Asia. The strong ties between the two institutions is reflected in the Calatrava ref. 5057G, one of the rare instances that Patek Philippe created a reference for a retailer.

The “Esplanade” Dome Clock of 2015 was acquired by Cortina founder Anthony Lim at a charity auction that year for 750,000 Singapore dollars, then equivalent to about US$520,000, making it one of the most expensive Dome Clocks ever sold publicly. Depicting the Singapore skyline from the vantage point of within the Esplanade theatre, the 2015 clock serves as the inspiration for the Singapore Skyline.

The four panels of the Singapore Skyline depict the Marina Bay area with all the key landmarks prominently portrayed, including the triple towers of the Marina Bays Sands hotel, the lotus-shaped Art Science Museum, the Singapore Flyer Ferris wheel, and the sci-fi Supertrees of Gardens by the Bay. And it is capped by a domed top showing a night sky of fireworks and stars. Festive in tone and detail, the scene is rendered in a slightly stylised manner and in bright, pastel colours.

The Merlion in the foreground

The towers of Marina Bay Sands sitting behind the Art Science Museum

The Helix Bridge that was inspired by structure of DNA

Always the simplest element of a Dome Clock, the dial for the time is dressed up with hour markers that are baguette-cut lapis lazuli totalling 2.27 carats

As is traditional for Dome Clocks, the Singapore Skyline is predominantly decorated in cloisonné enamel – some 9.2 m, or just over 30 ft, of solid-gold wire (of either 22k or 24k purity) was required. That’s equivalent to 18.45 g, or about 0.65 oz.

Because the cloisonné technique relies on wires to create “cells” that are then filled with enamel, the wire is taller than it is wide, measuring 0.2 mm by 0.6 mm.

The cloisonné process starts with soldering the wire to the base, creating the “cells” that form the desired motif. Coloured enamel is then applied into the cells, one colour at a time – the clock as a whole contains 50 different colours of enamel.

The colours can only be fired singly or a handful at a time, since different colours melt at different temperatures. According to Patek Philippe, the Singapore Skyline needed between 10 to 14 firings to complete.

But the Singapore Skyline is not only decorated in cloisonné enamel. Its dome features two additional techniques of enamelling on the dark blue enamel base.

The 50 stars – representing the half century since Cortina was founded – are each painted in gold powder. And the fireworks are actually fine strips of silver foil, also known as spangles, in a technique also known as paillonnée enamelling (paillons translates as “spangles”). Both the stars and spangles are then covered in clear enamel.

A recurring theme on Dome Clocks: the Calatrava cross of Patek Philippe on the top

The chapter ring for the hours is decorated with sharply defined radial guilloche cut on a CNC mill

A Dome Clock really is all about the art. In contrast to the ornate, artisanal decoration, the mechanics of a Dome Clock are simple: inside sits the 17”’ PEND movement. It’s a 17”’ manually-wound pocket watch calibre – a movement found in Patek Philippe pocket watches for decades – paired with an electric motor that periodically rewinds the movement.

The base has a crown for setting the time and a cover for the battery that powers the electric rewinding motor

An example of the 17”’ movement, here in a Rare Handcrafts pocket watch

Concluding thoughts

Dome Clocks are almost always great example of enamelling or other artisanal decoration, while the enormous variety of themes they portray means there’s something for everyone, though only a lucky few will ever own one due to the sheer rarity of the clocks. Contemporary Dome Clocks typically feature a theme relating to a country or culture, or a depiction of nature, so each clock has a specific appeal. Regardless of the theme, Dome Clocks are often impressive works of art well worth admiring.

Beyond its intrinsic qualities in terms of craftsmanship, the Singapore Skyline has special resonance for residents of the city-state, while being a fitting tribute to the lengthy partnership between the brand and its retailer.

Key facts and price

Patek Philippe Dome Clock “Singapore Skyline”
Ref. 20145M-001

Diameter: 12.8 cm
Height: 21.25 cm
Material: Cloisonné enamel with silver spangles

Movement: 17”’ PEND
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Mechanical movement wound by battery-powered motor

Limited edition: Piece unique
Availability: Not for sale

For more, visit Patek.com and 50thanniversary.cortinawatch.com.

Conceived for the jubilee of Singapore-based retailer Cortina Watch, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G-010 is a throwback to the nineties in both size and size, but given a contemporary flavour with a dial in smoked grey.

In fact, it is a remake of the original model, the ref. 5057R that was in rose gold. Interestingly, the reference was specifically created for Cortina’s 25^th anniversary in 1997, giving the ref. 5057 the distinction of being a reference unique to a retailer.

Initial thoughts

Though it’s small by modern standards – it’s a bit over 36 mm in diameter – the ref. 5057G instantly stands out with its nineties style. The triple-row hobnail bezel and straight lugs instantly evoke Patek Philippe’s aesthetic of that decade. They set the ref. 5057G apart from the brand’s current offerings that have a more modern style.

I like Patek Philippe’s style of that era, so I like the ref. 5057G. With the wide hobnail bezel, it’s a bit fancier than it should be, but that’s the appeal. And the bezel is the very feature that gives the watch presence. It catches the light well and is essentially “bling” for an otherwise conservative design.

At the same time, the ref. 5057G is more attractive than the original model in rose gold, which lacked contrast due to its white-on-rose gold palette. By today’s standards the original is old fashioned.

The ref. 5057R of 1997 that was created for Cortina’s 25th anniversary and also a limited edition of 100 watches. Image – Phillips

Though the ref. 5057G retains exactly the same case, it has just enough tweaks to the dial. The radially brushed, smoked grey dial on the ref. 5057G create both contrast and reflectivity, which are a big part of its appeal.

The ref. 5057G is also appealing because it is unique amongst current Patek Philippe models. Not only is the reference itself unique, being exclusive to Cortina, but the movement within is also uncommon. The cal. 240 PS IRM C LU inside is only found in one other model, the Nautilus ref. 5712.

Also worth noticing is the discreet commemorative text on the underside of the case back. It’s translucent, meaning it isn’t too obvious

The only drawback to the design is the fact that it doesn’t incorporate any of the refinements and upgrades that Patek Philippe has implemented since the nineties.

The case, for instance, lacks the sculpted lugs that recent models features. At the same time, the dial is merely printed and goes without the applied markers that are now found even on entry-level Calatrava models like the ref. 6119.

Retro hobnail

Like several of Patek Philippe’s other watches of the nineties, the ref. 5057G has an extravagant bezel. It’s finished with three rows of hobnails, making it unusually wide for a relatively small case.

The bezel occupies about a quarter of the case diameter, which compresses the size of the dial, but increases the visual presence of the watch.

The hobnail bezel is sharply executed

The bezel is certainly integral to the case, which is only 36.15 mm in diameter. That makes it the smallest than any Calatrava in Patek Philippe’s current catalogue. While it is small, it isn’t too small. The size is just right for what it is.

That said, the retro style and size also means the construction is nineties in manner. The case construction is simple, probably too simple for a watch of this price today. The lugs are soldered to the case, but they are plain. I would have appreciate some minor upgrades to the case style.

Fume grey

The dial is composed primarily of classical elements, but the colours and finish give it a modern feel. In fact, the design is identical to that of the first ref. 5057R in rose gold, so it is literally a nineties design, but the finish and colours are very much rooted in today.

It’s radially brushed and treated with a galvanic process to create the grey finish. And then finally it’s varnished to create the graduated finish at darkens towards the edges.

Already relatively simple, the finish is also familiar since it’s been used by other brands. But it is attractive. The grey finish works especially well with the clean white print, particularly the large Roman numerals.

I would have liked to have luminous Roman numerals and hands. Pure-white Super-Luminova would be entirely in keeping with the overall aesthetic, while giving the dial a surprising and subtle twist.

Micro-rotor

Like the original ref. 5057R, this edition has commemorative text on the underside of the case back. But unlike the original that had the text in unsightly black print, this edition has it in translucent, frosted print that isn’t obtrusive.

That leaves the cal. 240 PS IRM C LU entirely visible. It’s a decades-old calibre but still fit for purpose thanks to its thinness as well as continuous upgrades over the years. Amongst the obvious upgrades is a silicon hairspring.

This specific version of the cal. 240 features a date, moon phase, and power reserve indicator. Although it was once found in several references, the ref. 5057G is the only current model equipped with this movement, aside from the Nautilus ref. 5712, which is a very different watch.

The finishing is typical of modern-day Patek Philippe calibres. Every component is clenaly and carefully decorated, although much of it is done by machine with only a few aspects appearing to have been done by hand. That said, the quality of decoration is comparable to that of Patek Philippe’s peers like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet.

Note the bevelling and countersinks on the base plate, an indication of the careful and comprehensive finish, even if it is mostly done by machine

Concluding thoughts

The ref. 5057G is an appealing watch on many levels – aesthetics, proportions, and rarity. While the old-school case lacks the sophistication of newer constructions, the hobnail bezel has charm. In fact, it’s probably the strongest element of the design.

There isn’t much to criticise save for one detail: the retail price of about US$55,000 is steep for a watch that is fairly simple in terms of mechanics, though that is pretty much within the ballpark for Patek Philippe.

Key facts and price

Patek Philippe Calatrava “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”
Ref. 5057G-010

Diameter: 36.15 mm
Height: 9.14 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 240 PS IRM C LU
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, moon phase, and power reserve
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 38-48 hours

Strap: Alligator with white gold folding clasp

Limited edition: 100 pieces
Availability: Only at Cortina Watch
Price: 75,000 Singapore dollars including GST (approximately US$55,700)

For more, visit Patek.com and 50thanniversary.cortinawatch.com.

One of Patek Philippe’s longest standing and most important retailers in Asia, Cortina Watch celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2022. In that half century, Cortina has grown from a single store in Singapore to one of the biggest retailers in Southeast Asia with a network of 45 stores and remains controlled by the founding Lim family. As it was with its 25th anniversary in 1997, Cortina is marking the milestone with a limited edition Patek Philippe – the same model in a different guise in fact.

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary” preserves the design of the earlier anniversary edition, but dresses it up in a more contemporary grey and silver livery. Importantly, the ref. 5057 was a brand-new reference conceived for Cortina, which means the new edition is only the second time that the reference is seeing light of day.

Initial thoughts

The ref. 5057G is notable in several ways. For one, it is unusual amongst retailer editions in having complications instead of being a time-and-date Calatrava, no doubt a reflection of the especially strong ties between the Stern and Lim families. Second, the ref. 5057G harks back to the watchmaker’s aesthetic of the 1990s with its dial and hobnail bezel. This sets it apart from Patek Philippe’s recent watches, which mostly have a more contemporary style.

And the ref. 5057G is intrinsically attractive. I have yet to see the watch in person, but I’ve examined the preceding ref. 5057R several times and it is a handsome, elegant watch that feels like a typical Patek Philippe of its era. Both the hobnail bezel and asymmetric dial layout are the most important – and most appealing – elements of its design.

Revisiting the Jubilee

The new ref. 5057G is a throwback to the limited edition in rose gold that Patek Philippe put together for Cortina’s 25th anniversary, the Cortina Jubilee edition that was also a 100-piece run.

“We have retained the aesthetic codes of the 25th anniversary Calatrava, launched in 1997, for the 50th anniversary limited edition,” explains Jeremy Lim, chief executive officer of Cortina Watch, “This is in homage to the past and present leaders of both companies who have nurtured our longstanding partnership. I hope that it will continue to strengthen over the next 50 years, and with the next generations after us.”

The ref. 5057R of 1997

The ref. 5057G preserves both the design and movement of the Jubilee edition, including the all-important triple hobnail bezel.

But the dial now gets a radially brushed, metallic grey finish that darkens towards the edges. All the of the markings on the dial are white, while the hands are rhodium plated to match the case.

Visible through the open back is the cal. 240 PS IRM C LU, a variation of the micro-rotor calibre that is one of Patek Philippe best known movements, being widely used across its model range thanks to its slim profile.

Better known for being inside the Nautilus ref. 5712, the movement incorporates a pair of useful complications, namely date and power reserve, and a romantic one, the moon phase.

The underside of the sapphire back is printed with the retailer’s anniversary emblem in translucent lacquer, leaving the movement entirely visible

Key facts and price

Patek Philippe Calatrava “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”
Ref. 5057G-010

Diameter: 36.5 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 240 PS IRM C LU
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, moon phase, and power reserve
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 38-48 hours

Strap: Alligator with white gold folding clasp

Limited edition: 100 pieces
Availability: Only at Cortina Watch
Price: 75,000 Singapore dollars including GST (approximately US$55,700)

For more, visit Patek.com and 50thanniversary.cortinawatch.com.