Omega just announced a calibre that sets a new standard for chronometry thanks to a proprietary silicon hairspring known as Spirate. With a promised daily rate of 0/+2 seconds, the new movement set a new benchmark thanks to a silicon hairspring that can be precisely adjusted thanks to its patented form.

The shape of the hairspring allows for diabolically fine adjustment – the watchmaker adjusts the attachment point of the hairspring via a micrometric screw on the balance bridge –  making it possible to obtain a rate precision never before achieved for a mass-produced movement.

The Spirate hairspring attached to the Omega adjustable mass balance

The importance of chronometry

In the past, chronometer competitions conducted by observatories in Geneva, Neuchâtel, London, and a handful of other European cities were a platform for watch brands to prove their mastery of time measurement, with the prize winners declaring themselves “master chronometers”.

The observatory contests were ended soon after Seiko starting sweeping the board with its mechanical chronometers. And in any case, the accuracy of a mechanical watch has rarely been of importance since 1969 when Seiko launched the first quartz wristwatch. Quartz standardisation made it possible to surpass the precision of the finest mechanical chronometer movements by a factor of at least 10 – at a far lower cost – eliminating the functionality necessity of a precision mechanical movement.

A Patek Philippe tourbillon pocket watch that was tested by the Geneva observatory in 1931 and claimed first prize

Today, there are only a few brands that have invested enough to stake out a significant position in mechanical chronometers. Many brands claim chronometric excellence, but few prove it with official certification such as that offered by Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (better known as COSC), which certifies only the movement before it is cased. Other institutions arguably offering a more comprehensive certification by testing and certifying complete watches, including the observatories at Geneva and Besançon.

But perhaps the holy grail of chronometric testing is the double certification known as Master Chronometer. First adopted by Omega, Master Chronometer combines COSC testing of an uncased movement followed by testing of the complete watch by a lab overseen by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), a process that includes testing the magnetism resistance of the watch up to 15,000 Gauss. Almost a decade after the certification was launched, there are only two brands that offer Master Chronometer watches: Omega and Tudor.

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic, the brand’s only Master Chronometer

The historical chronometric champion

Rolex was a pioneer in adopting chronometric excellence as a key element of its marketing, ever since it began labelling the dials of its COSC-certified watches with the declaration “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”. But because COSC tests only the finished movement without case or dial attached, every finished Rolex watch now undergoes an additional chronometry test performed by Rolex itself. The process tests the entire watch to a more stringent level than COSC standards, making it a double certification of sorts akin to Master Chronometer.

Known as Superlative Chronometer, in-house Rolex certification criteria demands a maximum deviation of +2/-2 seconds per day, which translates into a maximum range of four seconds. COSC, on the other hand, requires just +6/-4 seconds a day, equivalent to a range of ten seconds, which is derived from the ISO 3159 standard that defines a “chronometer”.

The only downside is the fact that the testing of the complete watch is done is in-house – Rolex tests its own watches by itself – which means it lacks the stamp of approval of an independent state authority, which Master Chronometer has thanks to METAS oversight.

The battle continues

In a provocative move, Rolex embarked on Master Chronometer certification in May 2021, but only for a single model from its subsidiary brand Tudor. Though trivial on its face, the move was like meant as a message for Omega and its parent Swatch Group.

The debut of the Tudor Master Chronometer implied Rolex did not need an official, external certification to prove its claimed supremacy in chronometric excellence. Moreover, it indicated the Master Chronometer certification was easily within reach of its subsidiary brand specialising in affordable watches.

Two years on, Tudor still has only one watch in its catalogue that is a certified Master Chronometer. One wonders if Tudor’s narrow adoption of the certification was merely to prove that Master Chronometer certification itself was not particularly exceptional.

The Tudor Master Chronometer

Omega, on the other hand, has 95% of its mechanical movements certified as Master Chronometers (almost all of which are equipped with its Co-Axial escapement), which is about 500,000 watches, while the rest of its mechanical watch production is COSC certified. This mass testing and certification is an industrial achievement on a different scale relative to the few thousand Master Chronometer watches certified by Tudor.

With the launch of the Spirate hairspring, Omega has just fired another volley in the chronometric war between Switzerland’s biggest watch brands. It will be interesting to see how Rolex responds.

Having teased about a new innovation on social media for several weeks, specifically a “tiny device” that would be a game-changer for the Speedmaster, Omega has finally revealed the Speedmaster Super Racing. But the star of the show is not the watch but actually the technology in the all-new silicon hairspring within the latest Speedmaster.

Known as Spirate, a portmanteau of “silicon” and “rate”, the new hairspring has a proprietary form that allows a watchmaker to vary the tension along its length, theoretically enabling fine adjustment of up to a tenth of a second. The result is a watch certified to have a daily rate of 0/+2 seconds, the most stringent timekeeping criteria amongst Omega watches. 

Initial thoughts 

While it is a given that Omega debuts a new Speedmaster every year, several of them at a go in fact, the revolutionary innovation in the hairspring was unexpected (though anyone who was trawling the Swiss patent registry would have gotten some hints).

The patented Spirate hairspring

The technical innovation behind Spirate is unquestionable, though the benefit to the wearer is probably less than the advantage it brings Omega in terms of streamlining regulation during production and assembly. And when Omega starts equipping its offerings with Spirate on a large scale, it will be an achievement from the perspective of industrial production.

As for the Speedmaster Super Racing itself, well, the watch is less than spectacular. Visually it’s similar to existing models in the Racing collection, but dressed up with a bodykit that includes a honeycomb dial and italic font for the date. Like its counterparts in the line-up, the new Speedmaster is a large watch, too large in fact, at over 44 mm in diameter and almost 15 mm high. Omega could have made more of the opportunity to showcase a proper sports chronometer, but innovation took priority over design.

What Exactly is Spirate?

Spirate is a patented hairspring made entirely from silicon, essentially a more accomplished version of the Si14 silicon hairspring long used by Omega. Silicon hairsprings have been in use for almost two decades, so much of the innovation about them is concerned with their shape and regulation, particularly since standard silicon hairsprings cannot be regulated with traditional methods.

Traditional regulation methods are twofold. One is the use of regulator pins to change the effective length of the hairspring, shortening it, for instance, results in the watch running faster. The other is changing the inertia of the balance by adjusting the position of the weights on the rim of the balance. Moving the weights outward increases inertia, thus resulting in a watch running slower. Most high-end modern watches produced on a large scale, including those from Omega, opt for the latter solution, leaving the hairspring to operate on its own.

The micrometer screw that allows for precise regulation

With Spirate, Omega has created the first adjustable silicon hairspring. A watchmaker can adjust the tension, easily according to Omega, via a micrometer screw on the balance bridge, rotating the screw to increase or decrease tension within the hairspring. In theory, this allows the movement to be fine-tuned with a resolution of up to a tenth of a second.

Spirate presumably speeds up the regulation process during production. As the movement retains the variable-inertia balance, it can be first regulated via the balance and then fine-tuned via the micrometer screw. The same would then happen during servicing, reducing the lead-time for overhauls.

Racing style

The Speedmaster Super Racing has a 44.25 mm case that’s 14.9 mm in height, essentially the same case as the current Speedmaster Racing models.

The main difference lies in the dial, which is now a black honeycomb with generous yellow accents. The aesthetic is modelled on a concept watch presently in the Omega Museum that was an experimental watch built to withstand extraordinarily high magnetic fields of up to 160,000 Gauss (which also inspired the Seamaster Aqua Terra 15,000 Gauss from 2013).

The Speedmaster Super Racing features a display back revealing the cal. 9920, a variant of the familiar cal. 9900 found across the Omega catalogue, with the key difference being the Spirate hairspring.

As is typical for Omega’s upper-end movement, the cal. 9920 is certified by METAS, making it a Master Chronometer. Besides chronometric performance, the certification also assures high levels of magnetism resistance.

The cal. 9920

Key facts and price

Omega Speedmaster Super Racing
Ref. 329.30.44.51.01.003

Diameter: 44.25 mm
Height: 14.9 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Omega 9920
Features: Co-Axial escapement, Spirate system (0/+2 per day), Si14 balance spring, column wheel chronograph and resistant to magnetism of up to 15,000 Gauss
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet and fabric strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Omega boutiques and authorised retailers.
Price: US$11,000; or 16,300 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Omegawatches.com.

With the MoonSwatch, Swatch and Omega pulled off a masterstroke with a collaboration that benefits both brands. The name of the product is a play on Omega’s iconic wristwatch – the Speedmaster Professional that was the first watch on the Moon in 1969 –  while bringing to mind Swatch’s role in the revival of Swiss watchmaking in the 1980s.

The MoonSwatch launch created a craze amongst buyers Swatch has not experienced since the 1990s when it launched a series of limited edition of watches that took the form of various vegetables. Those produce-shaped watches so aroused the passions of buyers that they spent the prior night in front of Swatch stores around the world so as to be first in line the next day.

On March 26 this year, similar scenes were repeated once again, and once again around the world. The 110 Swatch stores selected to sell the initial batch of the MoonSwatch saw endless queues that started the night before. Depending size and location, the allocation per store was between 100 to over 1,000 watches, but each customer was limited to just two watches, a number that was swiftly reduced to one on the back of frenzied demand.

History repeats… in reverse

In the 1980s, Swatch helped saved the Swiss watch industry – and in particular its sister brand Omega – by making “Swiss made” cool again. Swatch proved it was possible to make a timepiece in Switzerland that had a trendy design and disruptive marketing while selling it at an extremely competitive price.

History is repeating itself forty years later, but in reverse. The MoonSwatch – which sells for CHF250 – will probably enable Swatch, a perennial loss maker for many years, to return to the black. The brand is now a long way from its heyday three decades ago.

At its height in the early 1990s, Swatch sold some 20 million watches a year, and the cumulative number since its launch is approximately 700 million. However, its annual sales have since declined to just three million units annually in recent years, giving the brand estimated yearly sales of just over CHF200 million – and an estimated annual loss of CHF150 million according to Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult estimates.

A publicity stunt of another era: Swatch draped the biggest Swatch watch ever on the Commerzbank building in Frankfurt in 1984

To put things in perspective, the Swiss watch industry as a whole exported 15.75 million watches in 2021 according to the national customs authority, which translates into a total value of just over CHF22 billion. Swatch, in other words, sells more watches than any other Swiss watch brand, but also sells watches that cost less than any of its peers. The average Omega, for instance, sells for almost 50 times the typical Swatch.

Bringing together Swatch and Omega today has given the former a boost thanks to the historical and technical legitimacy of the latter. At the same time, it brings Omega a younger clientele who may not yet be familiar with its iconic watch. According to insiders, traffic in both Swatch and Omega boutiques – clients want the MoonSwatch in the former and seek the original in the latter – have risen after the MoonSwatch launch, seemingly proven the equation is working for both brands.

A new family for Swatch

Swatch is a brand that lives and dies by variation on a theme, essentially the same watch in different colours and occasional material tweaks. The MoonSwatch continues this tradition with 11 models, each dedicated a specific space mission, including the emblematic and coveted “Mission to the Moon”, which is almost an exact visual copy of the Speedmaster Moonwatch.

The key difference between the MoonSwatch and the original is of course the quartz movement in the MoonSwatch versus the Lemania-based, hand-wound chronograph movement inside the Moonwatch. But another defining trait of the MoonSwatch is the case of Bioceramic, a bio-compatible composite that is two-thirds ceramic and one-third plastic obtained from castor oil.

Notably, the MoonSwatch is in fact a riff on two earlier products that met with a lukewarm reception, proving that it is greater than the sum of its parts. Swatch launched Bioceramic a year ago with the Big Bold Ceramic, a watch that was not a runaway success to say the least. In fact, shortly after that, Swatch launched a NASA edition watch, which also did not enjoy the mass hysteria generated by the MoonSwatch.

Big and bold but modest sellers

Breaking down the success story

While buyers of the MoonSwatch were unanimous in their response to its launch, the competitors of Swatch were equally unanimous in their criticism the product for the potential negative impact on Omega. The Biel-based brand has become the jewel in Swatch Group’s crown over the years and now contributes 53% of the group’s operating profit and almost a third of its sales according to estimates by Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult.

Watch industry journalist Grégory Pons  interviewed 17 chief executives of leading Swiss watch brands and they were unanimous in their opinion: they understood the utility of the collaboration for Swatch, but certainly not for Omega. All agreed that it trivialised an iconic product – the Moonwatch – by making it an entry-level product, a very bad idea in other words.

Rather than engaging in a shallow analysis that often encounter in an industry that is used to not questioning itself, I instead analyse the tangible and objective factors that underpin the success of the MoonSwatch.

Rule 1: Complementary and opposite

Swatch and Omega could not be more different. One is a historical brand founded in 1848 and premised on mechanical watchmaking, while the other a lifestyle brand launched in 1982 whose codes are colour, humour, and references to art in all its forms but usually pop. Swatch watches, in fact, are almost fashion: they are not made to last but are instead launched in seasonal collections as in fashion, making them ephemeral and very much of the now, although a handful have become collector classics.

At Omega, on the other hand, collections have been around for decades and some models have become bona fide icons. These include the Seamaster 300 m, best known as James Bond’s watch, and of course the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch.

Swatch can afford to experiment with new materials and designs that do not necessarily follow any institutional logic, except that of constantly disrupting prevailing norms and catering to current fads. In contrast, Omega is an establishment brand that has to respect its traditional principle, above all the expectations of its customers. Here the two opposite forms of expression become complementary, creating the necessary tension for a successful and paradoxical product.

Rule 2: Combine talents

The Swatch Group has a unique competitive advantage: its industrial manufacturing capability that allows it to develop and manufacture a project like the MoonSwatch entirely in-house. The flip side of its industrial scale is, well, the need for scale. Its facilities have to run at capacity in order to be efficient and profitable. Even the substantial production volumes of Tissot, Longines and Omega – which together produce an annual total estimated at 5.5 million watches – are not enough to compensate for the drop in volume of Swatch that last year sold an estimated 3.2 million watches.

ETA, the Swatch Group’s primary movement maker, provided most of the technical solutions for the MoonSwatch, in particular the production line for the Bioceramic case that is wholly Swiss made. Omega took the lead in product development, which is evident in the details and coherence of the overall MoonSwatch design.

And finally Swatch itself provided its colourful house style and sales network. That said, one wonders if selling the MoonSwatch at Omega boutiques instead might have been a good way of upgrading the perception of the product and also bringing more young customers into stores they would not otherwise enter.

Rule 3: Warm up the audience before the main act arrives

Drop shipping accompanied by an announcement on social media is now the norm for the launch of high-end streetwear, especially for limited-edition sneakers that are often sold in a few dozen points of sale worldwide. The audience for such launches – typically very young – is accustomed to waiting in line. They can usually be seen outside the store early in the morning, having arrived the night before, already prepared to wait for hours to get the grail.

Swatch and Omega smartly stuck to the same formula and used all the means at their disposal to create buzz. Full-page advertisements were placed in daily newspapers worldwide in the run-up to the launch, along with announcements on social media – all cryptically indicating the date of March 26 while urging the reader to “change your Swatch”, or “Omega” in another version of the ad. As soon as the ads came out, the rumour mill went into overdrive and the buzz grew and grew.

Rule 4: Selective distribution, adapted to the target clientele

In order to maximise the surprise, the MoonSwatch was sold only in select Swatch boutiques and in very limited quantities relative to the brand’s scale. Just 110 stores around the world each were tapped to sell the watch, with the biggest stories getting just 1,000 watches for the day.

That sparked off a fervour so intense that in Singapore, for example, customers camped out in front of the store in order to be the first through the door – scenes not seen since the glorious days of Swatch limited edition in the 1990s. Needless to say, the 110 stores sold out of their allocation in a very short space of time, even though Swatch had taken care to limit each customer to two pieces at most and later reduced it to one.

Notably, Swatch is sticking to the same sales channel even after the launch. In a recent interview with the watch blog Fratello, the Swatch Group chief executive Nick Hayek ruled out online sales for the MoonSwatch. He explained this surprising revelation by saying: “There is no emotion in buying online. It’s a carefully crafted Swiss -made watch, not a commodity. After the whole world had to stay at home for two years because of COVID, it was time to celebrate and bring people back to the streets, to meet each other and revive the traditional shops.”

We can all agree that the launch brought people out onto the streets around the world, but what about customers still confined to their homes, as in China for instance?

Rule 5: Sequence the effort

It is estimated that more than 50,000 MoonSwatches were sold over the launch weekend, with another 100,000 pieces having been sold in the time since.

But the desirability of the MoonSwatch remains intact insofar as the market was not flooded at the time of launch – the opposite was true in fact – and inventory remains sparse even three months after.

That has translated into a continued premium-to-retail on the secondary market. After an initial sharp spike to over CHF1,500, the value of the MoonSwatch on the secondary market has remained relatively stable, with most transitions happening at CHF600, equivalent to 2.5 times the recommended retail price.

That said, a staggered launch might have stretched out the initial frenzy further. The 11 models could have been launched three at a time, keeping customers curious about the upcoming versions. And that could have led up to the final launch of the “Mission to Moon” model on the anniversary of the first Moon landing on July 20, perhaps even making it an ultra-limited edition of 1969 pieces.

And going a step further, Swatch and Omega could have created a unique example of the MoonSwatch – one powered by the same cal. 3861 found in the actual Moonwatch – to be sold at the Only Watch charity auction taking place in 2023. Imagine the reaction to a “plastic” watch selling for over a million Swiss francs!

Perhaps MoonSwatch one day

Objectives achieved?

Swatch is a brand that was long losing momentum and one on the hunt for reasons to produce the volumes needed to keep its parent’s factories for movements, cases, and dials running at optimal capacity. Unsurprisingly, the MoonSwatch is of course extremely beneficial to the brand.

To understand what is at stake for Swatch, compare the annual production of Swatch during its glory days of the 1990s of more than 20 million watches per year and the 3.2 million watches sold in 2021 – a decline of almost 90%. According recent Morgan Stanley estimates, Swatch could sell up to 500,000 units of the MoonSwatch this year, which translates into revenue of CHF125 million. More crucially, the MoonSwatch brings with its a phenomenal gross margin estimated to be 90%, or CHF112 million, a number that would almost enable the brand to break even.

Taking into account the fact that the MoonSwatch has not yet been launched in China due to the pandemic-induced closure of stores and online sales have not yet begun (if they ever do), the maximum annual potential sales for the model is estimated to be one million units, equivalent to turnover of CHF230 million. That would more than double the brand’s current turnover, while boosting profitability and bringing much needed volume to the Swatch Group’s industrial capacity.

While the collaboration has significantly increased traffic to Swatch stores, it has also introduced the Speedmaster Moonwatch to a younger audience that was not necessarily familiar with Omega’s icon of watchmaking.

The Swatch store in front of its headquarters in Biel

And criticism

One of the greatest marketing and commercial successes of Swiss watchmaking in the last 20 years could have potentially been even more consequential, if some aspects had been dealt with differently.

The 11 model-strong product family includes “Mission to the Moon”, a copy of the original Omega in size and overall aesthetics. One wonders whether it makes sense to replicate Omega’s most iconic product and selling it for one-twentieth the price.

On the other hand, this copy – almost an exact replica but not exactly as enthusiasts will spot the differences at first glance – has enabled the customers of Swatch to discover Omega and real Moonwatch.

Also debatable is the fact that the MoonSwatch collection is regular production, at least for a period, as opposed to a limited edition, especially considering what might happen next.

In view of the success of this, we will surely see other similar collaborations, for example based on the Sistem51, the self-winding Swatch that is one of the most accomplished industrial movements in Swiss watchmaking. Other iconic designs from brands owned by the Swatch Group would be ideal candidates, or even those from brands outside the group.

My biggest criticism of the launch relates to Swatch’s marketing and communications, which did not make the product a priority before or after the launch. There was no specific campaign for the model apart from a few posts on the Swatch Instagram account and the pre-launch campaign in newspapers, raising the question of its relevance to consumers in Generations Z and Alpha, who no longer read much in print.

The golden rule of communication is repetition and consistency of message, so a few posts on social media are insufficient. And where the MoonSwatch was covered in the media, it was mostly in specialist watch media, at least in the initial days. The vast majority of them simply did not understood the impact of the MoonSwatch watch or the importance of its success. Some merely saw it as entertaining marketing while others think it will damage Omega’s prestige.

Crowds in front of the Swatch store at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore on the day of its launch. Image – hippodeige/reddit

Crowds in Geneva. Image – Andy Hoffman/Bloomberg

Regardless of the communication or lack thereof, there were crowds in front of Swatch shops, including a 500 m-long queue in front Swatch headquarters in Biel. But there were also fights between those in line and organised rackets in front of the stores, particularly in Geneva, where customers exiting the stores sold the watches to those in line. Better coordination and planning would certainly have made the launch a better experience for everyone.

Despite the hiccups, the MoonSwatch was almost a textbook example of a perfect launch that started with guerrilla marketing and then stole the show from the brands exhibiting at the Watches & Wonders trade fair that opened its doors a few days after.

And to conclude, I venture that more collaborations are on the horizon, including with establishment brands outside the Swatch  Group. The story isn’t over yet.

]]> https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/03/swatch-omega-bioceramic-moonswatch.html Thu, 24 Mar 2022 14:31:17 +0000 https://watchesbysjx.com/?p=133198 Perhaps the most surprising launch of the year so far, the Bioceramic MoonSwatch is a collaboration between Swatch and the maker of the Speedmaster Professional. The MoonSwatch is essentially Moonwatch “lite” – it has all the key details such as lyre lugs and a Velcro strap, but a quartz movement and small price tag. And the […]]]>

Perhaps the most surprising launch of the year so far, the Bioceramic MoonSwatch is a collaboration between Swatch and the maker of the Speedmaster Professional.

The MoonSwatch is essentially Moonwatch “lite” – it has all the key details such as lyre lugs and a Velcro strap, but a quartz movement and small price tag.

And the MoonSwatch is next level in terms of range. Whereas the original Moonwatch is mostly black, Swatch offers almost dozen variants of the MoonSwatch, each dedicated to the most significant bodies of the solar system, such as the Sun, Moon, and Mars.

The MoonSwatch “Mission to Mars”, a tribute to the Speedmaster “Alaska Project” but with the entire case in bright red ceramic

Initial thoughts

The MoonSwatch is an exemplary crossover because its encapsulates the specialties of each brand. Combining the quintessential cheerful style of Swatch with Omega’s iconic Moonwatch results in a fun, lighthearted watch that’s very affordable.

But it’s also a shocking product because the two brands are poles apart in terms of positioning and pricing. Put simply, an Omega strap costs more than the average Swatch watch.

Swatch is clearly the winner. It’s an especially shrewd move for the maker of plastic watches, since some of the prestige and historical significance of Omega rubs off onto Swatch.

As for Omega, it’s a purposeful act of brand dilution, no doubt in the hope that it brings the brand to a new audience that will aspire to own the real deal one day. But it’s too early to tell whether that’s a good strategy for a luxury watchmaker – Omega is number three in terms of revenues but reputedly aspires to be number one – but there will surely be Moonwatch owners who frown at the the lookalike.

The “Mission to Pluto”

That said, the MoonSwatch will be an immediate hit, because it feels almost rebellious with its low price and fun colours. In a world where appealing watches are mostly unavailable, the diverse line up is laudable for being accessible and fun.

But it is a certainty that these watches won’t be accessible initially as demand will definitely outstrip supply at the start. And for now, they can only be purchased in selected Swatch boutiques, which is antithetical to the purpose of the product. I hope broader availability eventually becomes the norm, and Swatch’s prowess in mass production should mean that everyone who wants one will be able to have one in the near future.

A photorealistic painting of the associated planetary body is the battery cover on the back

Omega x Swatch

The MoonSwatch is especially notable for the faithful details straight out of the Moonwatch, without which it would just be yet another colourful Swatch.

For starters, the case is 42 mm like the Moonwatch. And it even features a similar profile with a wide bevel along the lugs as well as the steps between the bezel and the case.

And the dials and crystal also have a few subtle details that only Moonwatch fans will notice. Hardcore nerds will also appreciate the reproduction of details like the “dot over 90” tachymeter bezel and also the “secret signature” on the crystal.

“Dot over 90” and a stepped dial, as seen on the “Mission to Uranus”

The crystal is raised and domed, here on the “Mission to Jupiter”

But there are of course differences between the original and the MoonSwatch, as a result of the different movements.

While the Moonwatch has a hand-wind calibre evolved from the Lemania 1873, the Swatch relies on the standard ETA quartz movement found in all Swatch chronographs, explaining the unusual (for a Moonwatch) arrangement of the chronograph registers.

The Moonwatch (left) and the MoonSwatch “Mission to the Sun”

The layout is synonymous with a low-end quartz chronograph, which makes it somewhat less appealing. But that is more that made up for by the colourful dials and cases. The combinations range from the low-key, near-faithful homage to the Moonwatch with the “Mission to the Moon”, to extremely creative versions such as the “Mission to Saturn” where the planet is depicted on the dial.

The “Mission to Saturn”, in an angle where the “S” engraving on the crystal shows

Key facts and price

Omega x Swatch Bioceramic MoonSwatch

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.25 mm
Material: Bioceramic
Crystal: Unavailable
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Quartz
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph

Strap: Velcro strap

Limited edition: No, but each customer is limited to two watches
Availability: Starting March 26 at selected Swatch boutiques
Price: US$260, or 372 Singapore dollars.

For more, visit swatch.com.

Of Omega’s novelties for the year (which include a 6000 m dive watch and solid-gold Speedmaster Moonwatch) the Seamaster Aqua Terra is the most affordable while also offering the widest range in terms of style and size.

The brand has just taken the covers off the latest Aqua Terra range made up of ten watches evenly divided into 34 mm and 38 mm cases, but all in vibrant, upbeat colours.

The 34 mm model with a Lagoon Green dial

Initial thoughts

In terms of intrinsic appeal, the latest Aqua Terras are a wonderful addition to the line up. They show that Omega has begun to loosen up in terms of dial colours and style, which will no doubt help widen its audience.

Another point of appeal is the dial finish. While the colours are bright, they aren’t in-your-face thanks to a brushed finish. And the 34 mm model also sports more rounded forms for the hands and hour markers that give it a more elegant feel. Overall, it makes for a versatile watch that’s not too sporty.

And it’s also good news Omega has done away with the linear motif inspired by the wood decks of a sailboat that was long synonymous with the Aqua Terra.

The 34 mm quintet

That said, the collection immediately call to mind the Oyster Perpetual from 2020 that was an instant hit thanks to its range of colourful, lacquered dials. That leaves the new Aqua Terra feeling like a trend follower rather than trendsetter. Only time will tell whether this approach is conducive to the positioning of the brand.

(To be fair, Omega did release a green-dial Aqua Terra 41 mm in 2020, before the colour became a hit, though it wasn’t really a trend-setter.)

Lastly comes the price. The new Aqua Terras are priced approximately 5% higher than their predecessors. The two generations aren’t that different in tangible terms, but considering standard practice in the watch industry, the premium is fair enough.

Various flavours

Two sizes of the Aqua Terra, namely 38 mm and 34 mm, were chosen for the colourful dial treatment. Though similar at a glance, the two sizes differ a lot in their details, ranging from the dial colours to the hour markers.

The 34 mm model is obviously catered to the female market with its brighter, bolder colours such as Shell Pink and Lavender. At the same time, the rounded markers and hands give the watch a softer aesthetic, good news for those who find the sharp, trapezoidal shapes on the dial of the 38 mm model too much.

Lavender in 34 mm

The 38 mm model with its angular markers and hands

And the 34 mm is arguably better executed in terms of proportions. The date window, for instance, sits lower and closer to the edge of the dial, in contrast to “dangling” date on the 38 mm model. Also, the 34 mm version sports indices and hands of solid white gold, while its larger counterpart has them in rhodium-plated brass.

The “floating” date window on the 38 mm model (right) is especially apparent since the date disc is stark white

The bracelet on both versions is almost identical, save for size. Conceived as a streamlined and polished version of the bracelet found on the Seamaster Planet Ocean – the brand’s full-fledged dive watch – the new Aqua Terra bracelet has smaller links that will improve comfort since it is more supple and can be sized in finer increments. That said, the new bracelet is reminiscent of the “President” bracelet found on the Rolex Day-Date.

Both models are powered by the cal. 8800, which is the brand’s single-barrel workhorse that offers a power reserve of 55 hours. Compared to the cal. 8900 found in the largest, 41 mm Aqua Terra, the cal. 8800 lacks a quick-set hour hand, though that means the the date can be more easily advanced.

Key facts and price

Omega Seasmaster Aqua Terra 150 mm Co-Axial Master Chronometer
Ref. 220.10.38.20.03.003 (38 mm, Atlantic Blue)
Ref. 220.10.38.20.10.002 (38 mm, Bay Green)
Ref. 220.10.38.20.09.001 (38 mm, Sand Stone)
Ref. 220.10.38.20.12.001 (38 mm, Saffron)
Ref. 220.10.38.20.13.003 (38 mm, Terracotta)
Ref. 220.10.34.20.03.002 (34 mm, Sea Blue)
Ref. 220.10.34.20.10.001 (34 mm, Lagoon Green)
Ref. 220.10.34.20.09.001 (34 mm, Sandstone)
Ref. 220.10.34.20.10.003 (34 mm, Shell Pink)
Ref. 220.10.34.20.10.002 (34 mm, Lavender)

Diameter: 38 mm or 34 mm
Height: 12.26 mm (38 mm); 11.88 mm (34 mm)
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 150 m

Movement: Cal. 8800
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: US$6,000

For more, visit omegawatches.com.

A modern take on Omega’s first-ever Speedmaster from 1957, the aptly named Speedmaster ’57 has just been facelifted and upgraded. What was originally a two-counter, automatic chronograph is now a two-counter, manual-wind chronograph. Its aesthetics have been refined, including with a smaller case, coloured dials, and a better bracelet, while the insides have been upgrade with a METAS-certified movement.

Initial thoughts

While the new Speedmaster ’57 might seem identical to its predecessor that was introduced almost a decade ago, it is entirely different. The latest release retains the same retro style with its “Broad Arrow” hands, straight lugs, and flat-link bracelet, but everything else has been redesigned.

Continuing Omega’s stylistic direction for 2022, the new Speedmaster ’57 is offered in bright, metallic-finish dials, including a fashionable olive green. It also encapsulates consumers’ preference for a smaller and thinner case, as well as a quick-adjustment clasp, which will certainly improve wearability.

But the biggest surprise comes courtesy of the movement. While the cal. 9300 in the earlier model was automatic, the cal. 9906 in the new model is hand-wind, which results in a slightly thinner case that’s 12.99 mm.

With its evocation of vintage chronographs, the hand-wind movement leaves the date feeling somewhat out of place, since it’s a complication traditionally associated with practicality instead of good, old-fashioned aesthetics.

At US$8,600 on bracelet, the new Speedmaster ’57 is around 5% pricier than the outgoing model. That makes it strong value given the high-spec movement that’s one of the most advanced chronograph calibres available in this price range.

Colourful and hand-wind

The latest Speedmaster ’57 is a blend of modern and classical elements. While the hand-wind movement is traditional in operation (though it looks thoroughly modern), the dials on offer for the Speedmaster ’57 are dressed up in colours that are clearly contemporary.

Notably, the black dial is the only one with a two-piece “sandwich” construction, a feature increasingly common on vintage-inspired watches

Four different dials are available, with the red and black variants executed in a matte, grained finish, while the blue and green versions have a brushed, metallic finish. While the colours are bolder, the design of the dial is streamlined. Instead of the contrasting, coloured hands on the earlier Speedmaster ’57, the latest uses only rhodium-plated hands, which help tone done the look.

Notably, the most unusual model of the preceding Speedmaster ’57 line-up is absent from the current generation. That was the titanium version with a white lacquered dial. All four variants of the new Speedmaster ’57 are steel.

The elapsed hours and minutes have been smartly combined into one counter at three o’clock, which leaves the dial cleaner than most chronograph with an hour counter

But the most important aspect of the new generation is the new cal. 9906, which means the Speedmaster ’57 is now METAS-certified. It’s an upgrade that’s long overdue since the preceding Speedmaster ’57 was one of the Omega’s last offerings that’s was not a Master Chronometer, a title that comes with METAS certification.

The cal. 9906 is the hand-wind version of the cal. 9900, Omega’s top-of-the-line chronograph movement featuring a vertical clutch and column wheel.

The cal. 9900 in turn is based on the cal. 9300, with the key difference between the two being the METAS-certification for the former. That arises from invisible but significant upgrades to the materials used for the escapement parts that allow for better magnetism resistance, a key criteria of METAS testing.

Key facts and price

Omega Speedmaster ’57 Calibre 9906
Ref. 332.10.41.51.01.001 (black, bracelet)
Ref. 332.10.41.51.10.001 (green, bracelet)
Ref. 332.12.41.51.03.001 (blue, strap)
Ref. 332.12.41.51.11.001 (red, strap)

Diameter: 40.5 mm
Height: 12.99 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 9906
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Additional features: Co-Axial escapement, silicon hairspring, and resistant to magnetism of up to 15,000 Gauss
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet or leather strap

Availability:  At Omega retailers and boutiques
Price:
Steel on strap – US$8,300
Steel on bracelet – US$8,600

For more, visit omegawatches.com.

In 2021, Omega revamped its ubiquitous Moonwatch, giving it a thorough makeover that included an upgraded movement in the form of the Master Co-Axial cal. 3861. This year, Omega follows up with the Speedmaster Moonwatch 42 mm Moonshine Gold.

Omega’s proprietary pale-yellow gold alloy, Moonshine Gold was developed to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Moon landing, so it comes as no surprise that the alloy has made its way into the latest-generation Speedmaster with the cal. 3861.

The “panda” dial in solid Moonshine Gold with black registers

Initial thoughts

The Speedmaster Moonshine Gold Speedmasters are possibly the most striking version of the latest Moonwatch (though the Canopus Gold is a close second). Both iterations of the Speedmaster Moonshine Gold are in popular colours; green is currently hot and while Omega may not score points in originality, the brand is delivering what the market wants at the moment.

That said, the execution of the new Speedmasters is done well. The restrained use of modern material such as ceramic for the bezel insert gives the watch a polished yet traditional look, allowing it to retain the essence of its bestselling model. Put simply, it still looks like a Speedmaster Moonwatch, which is what matters.

And the unique, pale yellow tone of Moonshine Gold gives the new Speedmaster a slightly vintage look, albeit one with elements that are clearly modern. At the same time, the colour of the metal allows for a subtlety in appearance in spite of the large amount of gold, especially in the bracelet model.

Starting at US$24,600 on a leather strap and rising to US$36,500 on a gold bracelet, the Speedster isn’t quite a value proposition but priced fairly relative to other Speedmasters. The prices are on par with the Sedna Gold version and slightly less than the Canopus Gold variant.

Strong execution

Interestingly, Moonshine Gold has been rarely used as a case material on the Speedmaster Moonwatch despite its name. Debuted in 2019 on the Speedmaster Apollo 11 50^th Anniversary, the alloy is a slightly paler in colour compared to conventional 18k yellow gold, in part due to its 14.5% silver content.

For the ones who prefer uniformity in colour and material, the “panda” dial would be the variant of choice. The dial is a solid disc of Moonshine Gold and matched with black hands and indices, which have just enough contrast. The combination is not too jarring, as it might be with a traditional black-on-white “panda” dial.

And for someone who wants something more trendy, there’s the all-green model that has a green bezel and dial. Though the colour is new, the unbroken colour from bezel and dial means it resembles the traditional Moonwatch.

The traditional thin sets the Speedmaster apart from most modern chronographs that have bold, wide bezels

An interesting detail is the rubber strap with a fine, linear pattern on top and a lunar surface pattern in relief on the underside

The watches are powered by the cal. 3861 that was introduced in 2019. Essentially an upgraded version of the Lemania cal. 1861 (or 1863) that was found in the Moonwatch since the late 1960s, the cal. 3861 boasts several technical improvements.

Amongst them is a Co-Axial escapement made of anti-magnetic alloys, giving it high levels of magnetism resistance. Like all high-end Omega calibres, the cal. 3861 is certified by the federal Swiss measurements authority METAS, making the Speedmaster a Master Chronometer.

One notable omission, at least in terms of aesthetics, is the rhodium finish on the movement. Unlike other the limited edition Speedmaster Apollo XI in Moonshine Gold, the new pair doesn’t have movements plated to match the case.

Key facts and price

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 42 mm Moonshine Gold
Ref. 310.60.42.50.10.001 (green, bracelet)
Ref. 310.63.42.50.10.001 (green, strap)
Ref. 310.60.42.50.99.002 (gold, bracelet)
Ref. 310.62.42.50.99.001 (gold, strap)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.12 mm
Material: 18k Moonshine Gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 3861
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Winding: Hand-wound
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Leather, rubber, or matching Moonshine Gold bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Omega boutiques and retailers
Price:
Green, strap – US$24,600
Green, bracelet – US$34,800
Gold, strap – US$26,400
Gold, bracelet – US$36,500

For more, visit Omegawatches.com.

Correction March 13, 2022: The case thickness is 13.18 mm, and not 18.12 mm as stated in an earlier version of the article. 

Omega has just taken the covers off a slew of new watches for 2022, but the standout is doubtlessly the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep 6000 m.

The Ultra Deep began with a trio of experimental Ultra Deep watches that completed a 12-hour dive strapped onto the exterior of a submersible, reaching 10,935 m, or 35,876 ft, the deepest any human or watch has ever dived according to Omega. The experimental watch – which was rated to 15,000 m – has evolved into the commercially-available Ultra Deep, which is Omega’s capable dive watch.

While having half the depth rating of the experimental model, the Ultra Deep 6000 m is much more wearable with a diameter of 45.5 mm, similar to that of a Planet Ocean 600 m, albeit with a case thickness of 18.12 mm. The experimental watch, on the other hand, was almost 28 mm thick.

And needless to say, the Ultra Deep is a saturation diver’s watch, but one constructed impermeable to gases, explaining the lack of a helium escape valve.

Initial thoughts

Omega’s top-tier dive watches have always been thick, but the Ultra Deep takes it to the next level. With its enormous case, the Ultra Deep is probably not very wearable, but that’s an integral feature of a dive watch like this. It is so overbuilt that it doesn’t really make sense, but that’s what makes the Ultra Deep cool.

While the technical achievement of the depth rating is impressive, the Ultra Deep is notable for more than just raw numbers. Among its novel features is O-Megasteel, a steel alloy that’s the latest in the brand’s growing range of proprietary alloys and the first that isn’t a precious metal.

And the Ultra Deep is surprisingly good looking, thanks in part to a newish dial finish. The best looking are the fumé dials in grey or blue, which are new to the Planet Ocean family, though the classic executions such as glossy white and matte black dial are still appealing and fitting for a dive watch.

Also worth a mention is the Ultra Deep in titanium. Of all of the versions, the titanium model is the closest to the experimental watch of 2019. Like the experimental watch, it has fixed, curved strap bars nicknamed “Manta” lugs.

The Ultra Deep in titanium

While the Ultra Deep has intrinsic appeal, it feels a little late to the game. Rolex debuted its experimental Deepsea Challenge in 2012, four years after the launch of the Deepsea dive watch rated to 3,900 m. The Ultra Deep is an incremental improvement, but one that took a long time to arrive.

That said, the Ultra Deep is competitively priced, which adds to its appeal. With a price that starts from US$11,200 for the steel model on a strap and rising to US$12,300 for the titanium variant, the Ultra Deep is priced well as such things go.

Surprisingly, the Ultra Deep costs less than the discontinued Ploprof 1200 m, probably due to its simpler case construction. While the Ploprof certainly wins in terms of historical significance and case construction, the Ultra Deep is definitely more appealing for its technical features and striking execution.

The titanium model is only available in a blue and grey palette that has a slightly futuristic look to it

All the way down

With a water resistance of 6000 m, the Ultra Deep is an entirely different animal from most dive watches, which are typically rated to 200 m or 300 m. Interestingly, even though it’s rated to a far greater depth than Omega’s other dive watches, the Ultra Deep does without a helium release valve, as the case has been constructed to prevent gases from entering during saturation diving (which is all academic since such depths are impossible for humans to reach without a submersible).

That rating, however, requires an ultra-thick case that’s 18.12 mm tall. The thickness is despite, or perhaps because of, a novel construction with four pending patents. That said, the size of the Ultra Deep is perhaps more forgivable than the Planet Ocean 600 m Chronograph, which shares a similar thickness despite its 300 m rating (the thickness in that case is due to the chronograph movement).

The case back sports an attractive two-tone laser engraving of the seahorse emblem of the Seamaster line

Another feature that helps with the depth rating, according to Omega, is its new steel alloy. With the proliferation of in-house alloys within watchmaking, new O-Megasteel is not exceptionally exciting but it is nonetheless notable. Twice as strong than typical steel, O-Megasteel helps with the pressure resistance, but it also boasts cosmetic advantages such as a brighter, more silvery appearance.

Though the brand is tight-lipped about the composition of O-Megasteel, it claims the alloy can withstand twice as much pressure as typical stainless steels such as 316L and 904L, which are the most common in watchmaking. It also has greater surface hardeness, which means O-Megasteel is about 50% more scratch resistance than standard steel alloys.

The O-Megasteel models are available in three dials: a stark white, blue, or grey

Also notable is the new bracelet and clasp. While seemingly identical to that found on the standard Planet Ocean 600 m, the new bracelet has a slightly more three-dimensional appearance and more refined finishing, with polished, bevelled edges along the edges of each link. Similarly, the clasp is slender but solid, an improvement over the wide and long clasps of earlier models.

Key facts and price

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep 6000 m
Ref. 215.92.46.21.01.001 (titanium)
Ref. 215.32.46.21.06.001 (orange, strap)
Ref. 215.30.46.21.06.001 (orange, bracelet)
Ref. 215.32.46.21.04.001 (white, strap)
Ref.215.30.46.21.04.001 (white, bracelet)
Ref. 215.32.46.21.03.001 (blue, strap)
Ref.215.30.46.21.03.001 (blue, bracelet)

Diameter: 45.5 mm
Height: 18.12 mm
Material: Grade 5 titanium or O-megasteel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 6,000 m

Movement: Cal. 8912
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Polyamide nato, rubber, or O-megasteel

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Omega boutiques and retailers
Price:
O-megasteel, strap – US$11,200
O-megasteel, bracelet – US$11,600
Titanium – US$12,300

For more, visit Omegawatches.com.

A surprise launch that was part of last year’s revamp of its retro diver, the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is marked the debut of a new gold alloy, joining the brand’s ever-growing stable of proprietary metals like as Moonshine and Sedna golds.

The unusual nature of the gold alloy – with a good proportion of copper, it is only 9k in terms of purity – immediately makes the new Seamaster 300 interesting. It stands out amongst the sea of vintage-inspired dive watches thanks to the unique physical properties of the case metal, which will develop a patina, but in a slow, barely discernible manner.

The alloy is 37.5% gold, which is 9k

But because the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is still gold, even if it is low caratage, it is not especially affordable, being twice that of its steel counterpart. That said, from the perspective of conventional gold, it’s much more accessible compared to a typical dive watch with an 18k gold case.

With that contradiction in mind, is the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold a value proposition? Omega was kind enough to lend one for a week, so I endeavoured to find out.

Initial thoughts

First things first, the aesthetics. The watch is handsome in the metal, with an appealing style that is evidently vintage-inspired despite the thick case. And it definitely feels more luxurious than the steel versions, in part due to the case metal but also the seemingly finer details.

Overall, the design feels complete and cohesive – the brown colourway is appealing in its consistency. It’s a warm, natural palette that brings with it a nostalgic feel that’s uncommon in modern watches, but entirely fitting for a design rooted in the 1950s original.

Aesthetics aside, also in its favour is the excellent cal. 8912, the no-date version of the cal. 8900 found across the Omega line-up. The cal. 8912 has a thoughtful, practical construction, with features like a quick-set hour hand, as well as an appealing, industrial decoration.

More importantly, the watch occupies a unique position within the retro dive watch segment. While watches with a similar style are common, most of them are steel or bronze, so the Bronze Gold alloy is instantly distinctive in both physical composition and aesthetics.

Bronze dive watches are popular because of the physical characteristics of the alloy, which develops a patina over time as a result of surface oxidisation. The patina, which can be green or brown depending on the bronze alloy, is not for everyone. So watch enthusiasts who appreciate the look of bronze but dislike the oxidised look will see Bronze Gold as perhaps the ideal metal.

And the in-between quality of the alloy is reflected by the price tag of US$11,200 – half as much as the average solid-gold dive watch, but twice as much as one in steel. That’s fair for a semi-precious metal watch.

On the topic of a precious-metal dive watch at an affordable-ish price, a comparison is inevitable. Unveiled a few months after the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold, the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K delivers twice as much gold content for a price tag that’s 50% higher.

While Black Bay is unquestionably better value – it does have an 18k gold case – the Seamaster 300 is still an attractive watch. The Seamaster 300 has a slightly more expensive look and feel, thanks to its more elaborate finishing, especially on the case, which has details like mirror polishing for the bevels on the lugs and crown.

In other words, the Seamaster is slightly more luxe, while Tudor is more no-frills. As such, the relative pricing makes sense, so it boils down to personal preference and budget between the two.

The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K

And the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold

Vintage chocolate

Modelled on Omega’s first-ever professional-diver’s watch, the ref. CK 2913 of 1957, the Seamaster 300 family brings with it the aesthetic of early dive watches. It’s simple and clean – the dial has no date – and stands in stark contrast against most modern Omega dive watches, which tend to have an aggressively sporty design.

But the Seamaster 300 isn’t a one-to-one remake – and it shouldn’t be since Omega has done a few of those – as illustrated by tweaks such as a wider bezel insert as well as the sans serif font for the numerals and logo, all of which add a contemporary touch to the watch.

At the same time, the construction of the case components has been streamlined. The bezel does away the large, trapezoidal 12 o’clock marker, leaving the watch looking more elegant.

A closeup of the bezel on the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold

The trapezoidal frame for the lume pip on the Seamaster 300 remake from the 1957 Trilogy, which is a near-exact remake of the original

While the bezel has been simplified, the dial has been made more elaborate on the modern watch . While the vintage original had recesses on the dial that were filled with radium, the modern-day version has a “sandwich” dial. It’s made up of twin dial plates – the top with cut outs for the hour markers and the lower plate printed with Super-Luminova – which give the dial more depth.

The cut-outs for the hour markers are evident up close

All those details make for a dial that is good looking. During the week I wore it, I found the dial to be especially nuanced, despite its single colour, because the tone of brown changes depending on the light. Made of an oxidised bronze alloy (and not Bronze Gold), the dial appears to be black most of the time, but reveals itself to be a rich, dark brown under bright sunlight.

However, I found it difficult to tell the time with indoor lighting, because the polished hands reflect black at certain angles, causing them to blend into the dial. That was compounded by the fact that the faux-vintage, beige luminescent material is muted in colour, so it too blends into the background. Legibility was, however, excellent outdoors.

Telling the time in the dark was easy enough, since both bezel and dial are fully “lumed”. But there was one nit to pick – because the minute hand tapers dramatically to a point, most of its tip has no luminescent material. As a result, the effective distance between the hand and bezel is substantial in the dark, which means reading elapsed time on the bezel in the dark is a challenge. Fortunately that doesn’t seem like a pressing task for a watch like this.

One of the especially attractive details is the domed crystal. The importance of the crystal might not seem obvious, but it makes when looking at it in the metal. When the watch was announced a year ago, the crystal immediately caught my eye – and it didn’t disappoint when I finally got one in hand.

While domed sapphire crystals are common – they are even found in watches that cost hundreds of dollars – the domed crystal on the Seamaster 300 feels to be of higher quality, it just seems clearer. There is none of the edge distortion that is often visible in low-end watches with domed crystals.

Gently domed and crystal clear

While the default in modern watches with domed crystals is the “box type” sapphire with an obvious edge, the crystal on the Seamaster 300 is gently curved, doing a good job in evoking vintage PlexiGlas, again contributing to the vintage feel.

The quality of the crystal also emphasises the high-quality construction of the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold, as would be expected for a premium-priced Omega. This gives the watch a tactile feel that lives up to and justifies the price.

The narrow, glossy ceramic insert on the bezel works well with the warm, luxurious look of Bronze Gold

The appeal of the watch is perhaps not a surprise, since Omega has had some practice with the reimagining the Seamaster 300. The immediate predecessor of the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold, which is still in the catalogue, is the first-generation model, which was available in conventional 18k gold.

The design has clearly been refined from one generation to another, both in terms of the dial and case. The lines of the case are now more taut, with a wider polished bevel on the lugs. And there’s less text on the dial – “Master Co-Axial” is gone – which now also has a “sandwich” construction. Less obvious but also attractive is the slightly conical crown, which replaces the conventional flat-sided crown on the first generation.

A first-generation Seamaster 300, here in the ultra-luxe, all-gold iteration with a malachite dial

Bronze Gold

But the main feature of the this model is definitely the case and its material, which gives the watch both its attractive palette and unique identity.

According to Gregory Kissling, Omega’s Head of Product Management, Bronze Gold alloy is made up of five metals – copper, gold, palladium, silver, and gallium.

Naturally the majority of the alloy, half of the total in fact, is copper, followed by gold, which accounts for 37.5% of its composition. That makes it 9k gold, an alloy historically used in the United Kingdom, where it could be legally described as gold (other countries required a higher caratage, 14k in the United States for instance).

Both the bezel and crown are finished with alternating polished and sandblasted surfaces

Gold is a stable element that increases the corrosion resistance of the alloy, avoiding the pronounced oxidisation of conventional bronze alloys. That oxidisation results in verdigris, a green layer made up of copper oxide that serves to protect the underlying metal from further corrosion, which explains the sunken-treasure look of many bronze watches. Palladium was also added to Bronze Gold to increase its stability.

While Omega states that the watch will not develop a green patina, it makes clear that Bronze Gold will age slowly but surely, which means the case will change colour but gently and gradually. In fact, silver is part of the formula as well to create a more obvious patina. According to Omega, Bronze Gold will acquire a pink hue over time, which is similar to the change of 14k gold over time.

And the final element of the alloy was put in purely for manufacturing purposes: gallium facilitates mixing the alloy.

Solid mechanics

When it comes to reliable, industrial-scale watchmaking, Omega ranks highly with its movements, especially the higher-end calibres. The cal. 8912 inside the Seamaster 300 is an excellent case in point, incorporating almost all of the brand’s modern innovations.

The cal. 8912 scores well in terms of the basics. It has a robust construction with features that are shared across the brand’s in-house movements, such as a full balance bridge that increases timekeeping stability.

And of course it has a Co-Axial escapement made from non-magnetic materials. An especially efficient design invented by the late English watchmaker George Daniels, the Co-Axial doesn’t require lubrication (though Omega still oils the parts for a margin of safety). It works with a free-sprung balance wheel of titanium paired with a silicon hairspring, which gives the movement exceptional resistance to magnetism, hence the Master Chronometer label, which certifies both functionality and magnetism resistance.

Many of the innovations within the movement are centred on the balance and escapement

Less obvious but no less crucial are the twin barrels operating in series, which are found only in select Omega movements. While the two barrels don’t increase power reserve significantly – up from 55 hours to 60 hours – they do deliver torque in a more stable manner throughout the power reserve, in contrast to the significantly fluctuating torque provided by a single barrel at the start and end of its running time.

The twin barrels are each marked on the barrel bridge

Just like the case and dial, the movement is cleanly finished, completing the package that makes up the Seamaster 300. The finishing is not artisanal naturally, but it’s smartly done and excellent for an everyday watch in this price segment.

Its defining feature – and perhaps the most attractive element visually – are the Cotes de Geneve executed in spiral, arabesque pattern that exaggerates the play of light that comes naturally with the grained surface of Geneva stripes. This spiral striping has been Omega’s trademark finish for its higher-end movements for almost two decades now, along with the blackened screws and red-filled engraving.

While the stripes are the most obvious element of the decoration, the rest of it is also well done. Notably, the bridges boast polished bevels as well as countersinks.

Both are are done by machine – the vertical milling marks on the bevels are the result of a CNC drill bit doing its thing – but nevertheless attractive. In fact, the countersinks for the jewels and screws are especially attractive, as they catch the light quickly and easily.

One feature missing from the movement, however, is a gold rotor. All solid-gold Omega watches, the 18k gold ones that is, get an upgraded rotor and balance bridge that are in 18k red gold. Having those parts in Bronze Gold would have been a welcome bonus, though cost is probably in factor in why that’s not economical at its current retail price.

The anglage reveals the telltale vertical graining of automated finishing

The large jewels for the barrels sit in countersinks

Concluding thoughts

The Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is a unique proposition in the retro-dive watch category, primarily due to the unique gold alloy, or seen another way, a unique bronze alloy that will retain its golden hue instead of patina. That is an attractive quality for a watch enthusiast who fancies the look of a gold dive watch but isn’t ready to splurge on a conventional, 18k gold diver.

The lower caratage allow, in turn, justifies the price. Even though the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold costs twice as much as its steel counterpart, it’s ultimately a solid-gold watch, albeit one in 9k gold. Add to that the attractive and unusual palette, and the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is indeed an original watch in a crowded category. There isn’t anything comparable on the market, at least not within its price range.

Over the long, I am willing to wager the Bronze Gold will age well – figuratively rather than literally since it will hardly patina – while many of its retro diver peers will fade in relevance and appeal. I arrived at that conclusion because of its simple design and strong execution – and the gold case is unique.

Key facts and price

Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold
Ref. 234.92.41.21.10.001

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 14.4 mm
Material: Bronze gold
Water resistance: 300 metres

Movement: Cal. 8912
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Leather strap

Availability: At Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: US$11,200, or 16,550 Singapore dollars

For more information, visit Omegawatches.com.

Omega’s opening act for the year is a splendid reinterpretation of the first-ever Speedmaster, the ref. 2915-1 of 1957. More accurately, it’s a splendidly luxurious take on the vintage original.

The Speedmaster Calibre 321 in Canopus Gold is equipped with (almost) the same movement as the ref. 2915, and retains the same dimensions – but it’s entirely in Omega’s proprietary white gold alloy and enhanced with extras like an onyx dial and enamelled tachymeter scale.

Entirely in Canopus gold, Omega’s own white gold alloy

Initial thoughts

Omega is starting 2022 in a big way with a heavyweight timepiece that perfectly encapsulate the brand’s historical greatness – which naturally means a Speedmaster. And it’s not just any Speedmaster, but arguably the ultimate iteration of the Moon Watch: the cal. 321 in a CK2915-1 case.

The result is a watch that seems straight out of 1957 at a glance, but one that’s definitely heftier and shinier up close.

The new Speedmaster does a good job at evoking a perfectly preserved example from the 1950s, thanks to clean dial that avoids faux patina. The purely modern aesthetic makes sense, since it gives the watch its own identity and clearly distinguishes it from the vintage originals and later remakes, most notably the 1957 Trilogy Speedmaster released in 2017 for the 60th anniversary of the model.

That said, the new Speedmaster isn’t particularly creative – it does feel a little like yet another Speedmaster – since it is essentially a combination of elements from various current Speedmasters but elevated with top-of-the-line materials.

Still, it is highly attractive – and equally expensive at US$81,000 (though it’s a bargain compared to the vintage original, one of which recently sold for over US$3 million at Phillips). The price is arguably justified for a chronograph with these attributes, namely the gold case and bracelet as well as the cal. 321, but it is expensive for a Speedmaster.

The watch is presented in a wood box unique to this model

Luxurious and modern

While black dials are common on sports chronographs – it’s the de facto Speedmaster dial colour – Omega has given this a more lustrous shade of black with a dial made of polished onyx, a mineral stone that has a deep, glossy sheen. Add to that the polished hands and indices of solid white gold, the dial appears strikingly luxurious.

The printing on the dial appears notably fine, giving it good resemblance to the vintage original

Despite being a faithful reinterpretation of the vintage ref. 2915-1, the latest Speedmaster is a modern watch. It is the third contemporary model to house the revived cal. 321, after the uber-expensive platinum variant and the “Ed White” in steel.

The markings on the bezel are filled with Grand Feu enamel

The new Speedmaster boasts modern conveniences like a see-through case back, allowing a peek at the cal. 321  that’s plated in Sedna gold, Omega’s proprietary, fade-proof pink gold alloy.

But the movement sits under a Speedmaster seahorse emblem printed on the underside of the crystal, which does seem unsightly up close, though it blends into the intricate mechanics from afar.

Another detail enthusiasts will appreciate is the robustly constructed bracelet – made even heftier in Canopus gold – which has solidity lacking on the vintage original that relied on a bracelet made of stamped metal.

At the same time, the clasp is equipped with a quick-adjustment system that allows for better fit, a feature missing on most other Speedmaster bracelets.

Key facts and price

Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 Canopus Gold
Ref. 311.50.39.30.01.001

Diameter: 38.6 mm
Height: Not available
Material: 18k Canopus Gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 60 m

Movement: Cal. 321
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Hand-wound
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: 18k Canopus Gold bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: US$81,000; or 118,750 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Omegawatches.com.