After notching up several world records for the thinnest watch in various categories, Bulgari had yet to claim the title of the thinnest mechanical watch. Piaget took the title in 2018 with the announcement of the AUC, which became commercially available in 2020.

But the Roman jeweller has finally bested its rivals with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, which is an astonishing 1.8 mm tall from crystal to case back, making it the thinnest watch on the market today (and also the thinnest in decades). It’s 0.2 mm slimmer than the Piaget AUC. The Ultra is certainly less, but is it more accomplished?

Initial thoughts

Trumping the previous title holder by a sizeable margin of 10%, the Octo Finissimo Ultra is an impressive achievement, even though the race to the be the flattest has been ongoing for a long time.

For starters, the Ultra does well in terms of design. While the design is based on the long standing Octo Finissimo, it doesn’t take away from its appeal. The Ultra is the sportiest watch among the thinnest of ultra-thin watches, with striking contemporary lines.

And it is very much a watch of today, literally. The large barrel ratchet wheel is engraved with a QR code providing access to an NFT artwork that accompanies each watch. It is tacky both as an idea and also up close, but at a distance the pattern of the code could pass for a decorative motif that fills up what would otherwise be a wide open space.

Keeping current

But the burning question is how did Bulgari’s latest beat the Piaget AUC?

The answer lies in two different approaches to movement construction. The AUC largely adheres to the basic conventions for a watch: it has the hour and minute hands on a single axis, as well as a single crown for winding and time setting.

In contrast, the Ultra relies on a regulator-style display that separates hours and minutes, while also splitting the crown functions into twin lateral, “backwind” crowns. Those features mean the movement is inherently thinner (more on this later) – and can be regarded as either compromises or innovation.

The differences make the comparison between the two less straightforward, but it doesn’t take away the fact that the Ultra is impressively diminutive at 1.8 mm.

A race to the flattest

Like the Piaget AUC, the Ultra combines the base plate and case back into one, while also having the bridge double up as the dials. But the Ultra spares no effort in spreading out the components of the movement as much as possible – it contains only a handful of vertically stacked components.

Those efforts are most obvious with the regulator display, which avoids the vertical height needed for conventionally arranged hands that sit one on top of another, as well as doing away with the stacking of the underlying gears needed to drive the hands. Interestingly, the gear train has an extra wheel at its start, which means the seconds disc is drive by the fifth wheel, instead of the conventional fourth.

The auxiliary wheel at the start is directly connected to the barrel, so it helps transmit energy from the mainspring. Because the auxiliary wheel is connected to the minute wheel, it also functions as an intermediate wheel in the motion works, serving to convert the rotational speed of a minute wheel to that of an hour wheel – a ratio of 12:1. In other words, the motion works are spread out and flattened, instead of being stacked up right below the hour and minute hands as is convention.

Because the movement is inverted – or back to front – the fourth wheel turns counterclockwise when viewed from the front, a problem that is solved with the addition of a wheel to the gear train. But oddly enough the fourth wheel still rotates counterclockwise, because the rotational direction of the barrel has been reversed due to the position of the winding click. As such, the fourth wheel has printed numerals to indicate the seconds, which reads more naturally as it is running “backwards” and also negates the need of a seconds hand.

The spreading out is also seen on the minute display, where the minute hand does not sit above the minute wheel, which would lead to extra height because of the pinion, jewel and bridge that is visible just above the minute counter. Instead, the minute hand relies on a 1:1 wheel that transfers the motion of the minute wheel horizontally to the edge of the register. Beneath the register sits the wheel that drives the minute hand, and below that the base plate (which is also the case back).

The second secret to the Ultra is the transformation of the crown. A conventional crown sits perpendicular to the case, but here it takes the form of not one but two crowns positioned parallel to the case – and flush with the case back.

The twin crowns on the back

The “backwind” crowns immediately eliminate the need for components positioned at right angles to one another, such as the castle wheel. And even more space is saved since each crown serves a different purpose, a feat that required some clever ideas to pull off.

The winding crown, for example, is smartly simple. It directly winds the barrel via a grand sonnerie-style click, which acts as a one way clutch. The compact design remains flat without the 90-degree castle wheel, reducing the vertical volume it occupies hence preserving thinness.

Meanwhile, a second crown is used to set the time. It uses a differential system, a more sophisticated solution than the usual friction clutch. But to prevent the barrel from unwinding via the time-setting crown, another grand sonnerie-style click is called into service, which unfortunately means that the time can only be set forwards and not backwards.

Finishing

The BVL 180 is surprisingly elegant in its construction and finishing despite the limited surfaces for decoration.

Among the most handsome components is the balance assembly, which is made up of a circular balance bridge along with a free-sprung balance. Notably, the balance assembly is modular, making servicing easier since the assembly can be replaced during an overhaul. This is a useful feature it will no doubt be challenging and time-consuming to service a delicate movement such as this.

While the movement barely has any anglage, the bridges that are machined with wide, steep bevels along their edges that even include a few inward angles, adding another dimension of visual interest.

Key facts and price

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 1.8 mm
Material: Titanium and tungsten carbide
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 10 m

Movement: BVL 180
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet with folding clasp

Limited edition: 10 pieces
Availability: From Bulgari boutiques
Price: €400,000 including VAT

For more, visit bulgari.com.

Correction March 23, 2022: The Ultra is not the thinnest mechanical watch ever, that title goes to the Jean Lassale 1200 that was 1.2 mm high.

Perhaps Bulgari’s signature men’s wristwatch, the Octo Finissimo is an ultra-thin wristwatch that has spawned a range of watches and variety of complications, including a perpetual calendar and minute repeater. Now the Italian jeweller marks a decade of its bestseller with a pair of limited editions that pay tribute to the original design – literally.

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic 10th Anniversary and Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic 10th Anniversary both feature “pencil sketch” dials that essentially reproduce the initial drawings of both models penned by Fabrizio Buonamass Stigliani, the design chief at Bulgari’s watch division.

Initial thoughts

The twin anniversary editions are only modest tweaks on the standard design, but accompanied by equally modest price differences, which makes them appealing alternatives for someone who likes the monochromatic look of the standard models but wants a little extra.

The “sketch” dials are clever and amusing, though not entirely new since similar drawing-inspired dials have been done in the past by Nomos and Fortis. Still, they have a whimsical appeal.

Price-wise, the two anniversary editions aren’t much more than the standard models. The automatic is €800 extra, while the chronograph actually costs the same as the standard version.

Being identical to the standard models in size and material, both anniversary editions will feel the same on the wrist, light and sleek.

I find the automatic elegantly thin, but the chronograph slightly too wide. When combined with its thinness, the chronograph’s 42 mm diameter brings to mind a biscuit.

Ultra thin

As with the standard models, the “pencil sketch” dials are sandblasted titanium, giving them a finely grained, matte finish. They are then printed with lines in black and grey that reproduce Mr Buonamassa’s drawings. The hands remain the same black-coated examples found on the standard models.

Dials aside, both watches are identical to the standard version. They share the same material, dimensions, and movements. The cases and bracelets are sandblasted titanium, while the crowns are topped with a black ceramic insert.

The BVL 318 movement in the chronograph is notable for having an unusual peripheral winding mechanism, though I imagine its slimness and construction means the movement overall is not quite as robust or efficient as most chronograph calibres.

The 5.15 mm case of the automatic

The only extra is the anniversary printing on the underside of the crystal on the back. Fortunately the printing is arranged in a semicircle on the edge of the crystal, so it isn’t overly obtrusive.

The BVL 318 in the chronograph

Key facts and price

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic 10th Anniversary
Ref. 103672

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 5.15 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: BVL 138
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet

Limited edition: 200 pieces
Availability: From Bulgari online shops, boutiques, and retailers
Price: €15,600

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic 10th Anniversary
Ref. 103673

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 6.9 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: BVL 318
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT, and chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet

Limited edition: 200 pieces
Availability: From Bulgari online shops, boutiques, and retailers
Price: €18,200

For more, visit bulgari.com.

Bulgari is starting the year big with something impressively tiny – the hand-wind BVL 100 Piccolissimo that’s the smallest mechanical movement of the 21st century at just 12.3 mm wide and 2.5 mm tall.

The minuscule movement makes it debut in the latest version of Bulgari’s iconic snake-bangle wristwatch – it is one o the most iconic jewellery watches of all time in fact – the Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery Secret Watch. While many versions of the Serpenti bracelet have been equipped with quartz movements in recent years, the BVL 100 means the watch within the snake’s head is once again mechanical, just like the originals of the 1950s.

The tiny barrel bridge of the BVL 100

Initial thoughts

While the Serpenti Misteriosi is a high-jewellery watch that has little practical appeal for most watch collectors, it’s difficult to easy to appreciate watch for its combination of design, craft, and of course the technical achievement of the BVL100.

Amusingly enough, the Serpenti Misteriosi is, technically speaking, an integrated-bracelet watch with a reversible dial – two features highly coveted in the watch world – though the lavish jewels and lacquer disguises most of its horological qualities, which also illustrates the power of the iconic design.

The forked tongue is a trigger to open the snake’s head, revealing the time below

But over-the-top style is only useful for a specific audience – and specific occasions – so for the rest of us, there’s the technical appeal of the BVL100.

Even if it’s not the tiniest movement ever – that title is still held by the Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 – the BVL 100 is notable for being the smallest of the 21st century. Exceptionally tiny movements were a thing in the early- to mid-20th century, since they were the only solution for delicate ladies’ watches, though the arrival of quartz technology has since made them unnecessary.

The watch head can be removed and installed in either direction, making it possible to wear the bracelet on either wrist

The BVL 100 is remarkably small, but also surprisingly rare – movements of this size aren’t seen very often today since watches of this size for either gender aren’t particularly popular.

That said, there are evidently technical limitations due to its size, so the BVL 100 does compromise in some ways. The Etachron regulator, for instance, is a low-end feature that looks out of place in a watch that costs well over US$200,000 on average.

Still, the fact that Bulgari constructed it to fit high jewellery watches is admirable. The BVL 100 is certainly a more fitting calibre for the iconic bracelet watch than a run-of-the-mill quartz movement.

A diminutive movement

The intriguing BVL100 Piccolissimo – that’s Italian for “extra small” – is essentially a miniaturised version of a typical mechanical movement. It has almost all the conventional elements of an ordinary movement, but reduced in size where possible. Its diameter of 12.3 mm, for example, is less than half of that of the ETA 2824 that is 25.6 mm wide, which is already considered small for modern watches.

Despite its size, the BVL100 is at heart a rather orthodox movement, with standard gear trains and balance assembly. That said, the winding and time-setting mechanism is unconventional, which results from the fact that high jewellery watches typically cannot have crowns on the size of the case for aesthetic reasons.

So the BVL 100 relies on a pair of reversers that allow for a crown on the case back, typically known as a “back wind”. Thanks to the reverser wheels, the crown works in both directions when pulled out, one direction sets the time and the other winds the movement.

The winding crown sits under the case

The tiny diameter as well as thinness limits the decoration of the movement, which is present but basic. The bridges have frosted top surfaces ringed by raised, brushed borders, which give the movement some visual interest, as does the elegant winding click spring with its polished bevels.

Still, the large pair of reverser wheels, which are actually small but appear oversized in proportion to the movement – look low-rent, as does the Etachron regulator.

A fancy integrated bracelet

Whatever the intrinsic qualities of the BVL 100, it is still the meticulously crafted case and bracelet that is the deciding factor for anyone looking to buy a Serpenti. As has been tradition for decades, the bracelet is hand made and also decorated by hand with both gemstones and translucent lacquer.

The bracelet starts with individual links with recesses within the scales, which are each hand-painted with multiple layers of lacquer or set with gemstones. The quintessential Serpenti is usually decorated with a combination of the two.

The decorated links are then assembled into a chain held together by tiny solid gold hinges.

And finally a double-ring gold coil is inserted into the chain, creating a flexible yet sturdy that loops elegantly around the wrist.

Key facts and price

Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery Secret Watch
Ref. 103559 (rose gold, black)
Ref. 103560(white gold, green)
Ref. 103558 (rose gold, turquoise)
Ref. 103558 (yellow and white gold)

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: 18k white, rose, or yellow gold, decorated with a variety of gemstones and lacquer
Crystal: Unavailable
Water-resistance: 30 m

Movement: BVL100
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Hand wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 30 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Bulgari boutiques
Price: Starting at approximately US$150,000

For more, visit bulgari.com.

Having tested the market with a handful of Gerald Genta-branded limited editions, Bulgari has just revealed during Geneva Watch Days 2021 that the Genta name will be revived. And the inaugural model for that venture is the Gerald Genta Arena Retrograde Mickey Mouse, a Disney-themed watch that harks back to the 1990s Fantasy watches of Gerald Genta.

Initial thoughts

The commercial opportunity with the Gerald Genta name has been obvious for several years, given the enduring popularity of a narrow set of his designs, namely the 1970s sports watches like the Royal Oak and the later Fantasy watches with Disney characters, all of which sell for handsome sums on the secondary market.

While all the 1970s sports watch belong to the brands that Genta designed them for, Bulgari does have the Octo, which was created long after Genta himself left the brand. And now Bulgari has resurrected the Arena Retro Mickey Mouse.

Like the Octo, the Arena case was created after Genta departed the namesake company when Bulgari acquired it, but the new Mickey Mouse Retro successfully channels the spirit of the 1990s originals in style and complication.

And in terms of mechanics, it’s also more sophisticated than the originals, in that it is powered by a variant of the in-house Bulgari BVL 191 “Solotempo” calibre, instead of the ETA movements found in the originals.

The Mickey Mouse reissue, however, does come at a steepish price of about US$17,500. That’s slightly more than the most desirable original models go for, which is logical in today’s strong market for high-end watches.

Jumping for joy

The Arena Retro has a 42 mm steel case that’s entirely polished, with the fluted sides and crown guards that defined the Arena design.

Displayed on a radially-brushed silver dial with a leaping Mickey Mouse, the time indication is straightforward: a jumping hours in a window at four o’clock, with Mickey’s extended arm functioning as the retrograde minutes hand.

Bulgari hasn’t specified the calibre inside, but it’s almost certainly a variant of the BVL 300 found in the recent Gerald Genta Arena Bi-Retro limited edition. That’s essentially Bulgari’s workhorse in-house movement, the BVL 191, with the retrograde and jump-hours module on top.

Key facts and price 

Bulgari Gerald Genta Arena Retrograde Mickey Mouse
Ref. 103613

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: In house
Functions: Jumping hours and retrograde minutes
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Red fabric with folding clasp

Limited edition: 150 pieces
Availability: Starting early 2022 at Bulgari online store and boutiques
Price: CHF16,000, €16,500 (equivalent to about US$17,500)

For more, visit Bulgari.com.

Bulgari has teamed up with Steve Aoki to create the Aluminum Steve Aoki, a funky version of its aluminium-and-rubber watch. Launched in 1998 and then revived last year, the Aluminum is an entry-level, lightweight sports watch that’s been given a subtle but fun twist with the “O” from the American DJ’s signature incorporated into the dial.

Born in California – his father founded the popular Japanese restaurant chain Benihana – Steve Aoki is one of the world’s most successful DJs, having collaborated with various musicians from Maluma to BTS. A fixture in the “Top 100” rankings by industry publication DJ Magazine, Mr Aoki also has his own streetwear line, making this collaboration with the Roman jeweller a natural evolution.

Initial thoughts

A hit upon its revival last year, the Aluminium is cheerful and affordable, while having an easily recognisable Bulgari design. Its design is strong enough that I find it to be one of the most fascinating watches in its price segment, despite the generic movement. The only downside of the Aluminium is the softness of the metal, which means the watch case will show wear more quickly than a steel watch. And careless wear will result in a case that looks very worn.

The Aluminum gets better with Steve Aoki collaboration. The DJ’s emblem on the dial is modern, bold, and a perfect match for the spirit of watch. But it’s also discreet – hardly visible during the day at arm’s length – preserving the classic design.

Notably, Bulgari’s collaborative editions are often tasteful – the Octo Finissimo designed by architect Tadao Ando being an obvious example – resulting in unusual but appealing designs with discreet details.

But unlike the Octo, the Aluminum is one of Bulgari’s most affordable products, resulting in a collaboration that’s playful and accessible to most, not only because of its affordability, but also because it’s a “special” rather than limited edition.

Nighttime special

The collaborative elements are subtly incorporated into the watch – just Steve Aoki’s signature on the case back and dial – without changing the original Aluminium design that’s simple but effective.

As with Mr Aoki’s profession, the action starts at night. The entire dial, save for the hands and indices, has been painted in Super-Luminova, creating a glowing face reminiscent of backlit digital watches from the 1990s.

And the rest of the watch is stock Aluminum, which means the robust ETA 2892 inside, as well as a useful 100 m water resistance. Notably, the watch is featherlight, with its case in aluminium and bezel in rubber, while the bracelet is a mix of the two materials – rubber links with aluminium hinges.

Key facts and price 

Bulgari Aluminium Steve Aoki
Ref. 103539

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Aluminium
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: B77 (ETA 2892)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Rubber link bracelet

Limited edition: Total quantity unavailable
Availability: Only at Bulgari online store and boutiques
Price: US$3,050; or 4,260 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Bulgari.com.

Having notched up records for the thinnest watch in several categories – including tourbillon, chronograph as well as minute repeater – Bulgari is continuing with the perpetual calendar. The Italian jeweller now claims another record for thinness – its seventh – with the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar.

Taking the mantle from the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, the new Octo perpetual calendar is just 5.8 mm in its entirety – with a movement only 2.75 mm high. It’ll be offered in the traditional livery of the Octo Finissimo of sandblasted titanium, but unusually also in platinum with an alligator strap.

Platinum (left), and titanium

Initial thoughts

There’s no doubt that Bulgari is perhaps the best at ultra-thin watches – its titles for the thinnest watch in seven categories are testament to that.

Yet the brand doesn’t simply rely on its record-setting thinness as a gimmick. Most of its ultra-thin watches are interesting beyond the slimness.

The Octo design in its own right is striking. And the perpetual calendar has been executed in a symmetrical, sensible manner. Though the dial is somewhat crowded, it remains legible thanks to the large sub-dials and minimalist aesthetic. It’s a well-designed watch and perhaps the most stylish perpetual calendar on the market.

The calendar includes a retrograde date in an arc on the upper half of the dial, with the day and month just below, and the leap year in a tiny display at the base

Between the two, I’m leaning towards the titanium version; I very much prefer the Octo Finissimo on a bracelet. The angular, slim bracelet complements the faceted design of the case well. I also like the subtlety of the sandblasted finish, which endows the watch with a sleek, sporty feel. And it also costs substantially less than the platinum model, while arguably offering a stronger, more original look.

Priced at US$59,000 in titanium, the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar represents value for money. Not as good value as some of the other Octo Finissimo models – especially the chronograph that costs a bit under US$18,000 – but a relative bargain against its rivals. In comparison, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin costs almost triple, albeit in titanium with a platinum bezel.

Stylishly svelte

The Octo perpetual calendar is an astounding 5.8 mm high – half a millimetre thinner than the previous record-holder from Audemars Piguet.

The titanium variant is paired with a matching sandblasted titanium dial, while the platinum model is paired with a radially-brushed dial in bright, metallic blue.

The dial finishes continue on the respective cases. The titanium model has a clean sandblasting throughout, while the platinum version has a more conventional brushed finished in the vein of many luxury-sports watches in precious metals.

Instead of the usual date window, the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar features a retrograde date, which Bulgari says was a necessity in order to preserve its slim profile.

Given the flatness of the dial, a retrograde date preserves its unbroken expanse, better fitting the aesthetic of the watch better than a traditional date window.

The case features three recessed buttons on its sides – one for setting the retrograde date, another for the month, and the last for the day. As a perpetual calendar, it requires no adjustment until the year 2100.

Ultra-thin movement

The thinness of the watch is thanks to the BVL 305. Though a newly developed calibre, it shares its foundations with the BVL 138 found in the time-only Octo Finissimo – both movements look almost identical through the exhibition back.

The complexity of the BVL 305 lies under the dial, where the perpetual calendar mechanism has been integrated as much as possible into the movement, instead of being a discrete module as is the norm for most perpetual calendars.

As is tradition for the movements in the various Octo Finissimo models, the BVL 305 utilises a micro-rotor to avoid the thickness of a full rotor. And despite being ultra slim and highly complicated, it still manages a handy 60 hours of power reserve.

The under-dial view revealing much of the calendar mechanism

Key facts and price

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar
Ref. 103200 (titanium)
Ref. 103463 (platinum)

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 5.8 mm
Material: Titanium or platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: BVL 305
Functions: Hours, minutes, and perpetual calendar with retrograde date, day, month, and retrograde leap year
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet with folding clasp or alligator strap with platinum pin buckle

Availability: From Bulgari online shop, boutiques, and retailers
Price: US$59,000 (titanium), US$89,000 (platinum)

For more, visit bulgari.com.

Bulgari’s race to the flattest started in 2014, when it started unveiling one complication after another of record-setting slimness, culminating with the thinnest-ever automatic chronograph two years ago.

While the original version is monochromatic and all titanium, the new Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium is a twist on the theme. It’s fitted to an integrated rubber  strap, in a first for the model that leaves it even more featherweight.

Initial thoughts

Admittedly – at least from a technical standpoint – the new Octo chronograph isn’t as exciting as it was when the model was first launched. This is just a facelift, but it’s a good one.

Though similar to earlier versions of the Octo chronograph, the new model stands out for its palette, which arguably gives it more wrist presence. The original version has an integrated metal bracelet that flowed well in terms of visual continuity. But the strap is compelling for the opposite reason: it makes the extra-thin case stand out, increasing the visual contrast while making the watch look a bit fancier.

The elimination of the bracelet will surely change its tangible feel on the wrist substantially. Because of the lightweight materials – a titanium case and strap in rubber – the watch will feel almost non-existent on wrist, taking the ultra-thin nature of the Octo one step forward.

And like the time-only version of the Octo, the Chronograph is fairly priced in most iterations. This costs US$17,200, making it one of the most competitively priced luxury-sports chronographs on the market. Though it lacks the fine finishing of its higher-priced competitors, the Octo chronograph makes up for it in design flair.

Ultra-thin

Thanks to the BVL 318 inside – which is only 3.3 mm high – the Oct chronograph clocks in at an unbelievable 6.9 mm. That’s probably as thin as an automatic chronograph built with traditional materials can be.

One reason for its slimness is the horizontal layout of the components, which are spread out rather than stacked up, explaining why the movement is a rather wide 37.2 mm. The winding rotor, for instance, is peripheral, a narrow ring made of aluminium and platinum mounted on the perimeter of the movement.

Installing the peripheral rotor

The single barrel (visible above centre) provides 55 hours of power reserve

Key facts and price

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium
Ref. 103371

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 6.9 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: BVL 318
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT, and chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Rubber with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: From Bulgari online shops, boutiques, and retailers
Price: US$17,200, or 24,300 Singapore dollars

For more, visit bulgari.com.

Essentially a slimmed down and pared back version of its flagship watch, the Octo Finissimo has gained more fans than the first-generation model, thanks to a sleek profile along with newly-developed ultra-thin movements.

Though the Octo Finissimo lineup is as wide as the watch is thin, the base model remains the most compelling, being an original take on the integrated-bracelet sports watch – a crowded and fashionable segment. Now Bulgari adds a brushed, silvered dial to the Octo Finissimo S, creating a tone-on-tone aesthetic defined by subtle contrasts in textures but looks surprisingly casual.

Initial thoughts

The just-released watch isn’t entirely new, so it has all the appeal of the earlier variants, most notably a slim, elegant profile on the wrist. But it does incorporate many incremental changes that set it apart from the original Octo Finissimo that was entirely matte titanium, before also being offered in sand-blasted steel, and finally in polished- and satin- finished steel.

The original Octo Finissimo models in (from left) rose gold, steel, and titanium

The brushed-silver dial on the newest variant, however, has given the watch a less formal style that is appealingly industrial with its expanse of brushed and polished steel. And the monochromatic palette is also unusual, distinguishing it from peers that tend to have darker dials that are almost always blue.

Price-wise, the new dial costs US$100 over the earlier version, a modest hike that leaves the watch competitively priced still.

More broadly, the success of the Octo Finissimo makes a good case study of building brand equity. While the steel sport watch with an integrated bracelet is something seemingly every watch brand offers, not all entrants enjoy the same acclaim, both commercial and critical.

One characteristic that sets Bulgari’s creation apart is its technical achievement – the brand has made the Octo Finissimo synonymous with ultra-thin movements, breaking one after another in movement height. As a result, the Octo Finissimo is more than just a luxury-sports watch – where it would be one of many – but it is the thinnest luxury-sports watch.

Casual but capable

The only novelty of the Octo Finissimo S is the dial. Though not overly exciting, it is good looking and fairly unusual. Vertically -brushed dials are uncommon, with the industrial norm being a radial, “sun ray” finish.

It’s otherwise identical to last year’s steel model, and similarly rated to 100 m (in contrast, the ceramic and titanium versions of the watch are rated to 30 m due to slightly different internal construction of the cases).

That also means the case remains as thin, at just 6.4 mm high – because the BVL 138 within is under 3 mm high. A movement so exceptionally thin does, however, comes at a cost because of the trade-off between chronometric performance and thinness. That said, the BVL 138 maximises its potential, being one of the best-performing automatic movements measuring under 3 mm high, as detailed by our contributors Tim Lake and Brandon Moore.

The BVL 138 as seen in another version of the Octo Finissimo

Key facts and price

Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered Dial
Ref. 103371

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 6.4 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: BVL 138
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp

Availability: From Bulgari online shop, boutiques, and retailers
Price: US$12,000

For more, visit bulgari.com.

Addition January 29, 2021: The case is rated to 100 m, as last year’s steel model was.

Having revived its Aluminium series earlier in the year – the model was first launched in 1998 as an affordable, lightweight sports watch –  Bulgari has just announced the Aluminium Tricolore, a limited edition created in collaboration with the Aeronautica Militare, Italy’s air force.

Clad in dark blue rubber, instead of the conventional black, the Aluminium Tricolore was also conceived with the pandemic in mind, as revenue from the sale of the first 50 watches will go to a trio of children’s hospitals in Italy.

Initial thoughts

A faddish watch in the years after its launch, the original Aluminium was discontinued about a decade after its introduction, which means enough time has past that it’s interesting again.

The new Aluminium has pretty much the same appeal as the original – an unusual combination of materials, lightness, and affordability – but also some of the same drawbacks, namely neither aluminium nor rubber are as durable as steel. Both materials tend to show wear more easily than steel does.

Still it is a good-looking sports watch for a relatively modest price of US$3,000 or so, and the Tricolore is a bit more appealing in its new livery that’s a bit less stark than the black and silver of the standard model. It is also a good thing that the tricolour logo on the dial is discreet, which preserves the overall two-tone look of the Aluminium.

Frecce Tricolori

Named after the Frecce Tricolori, the Italian air force’s famed aerobatics team, the watch replaces the tradition black with dark blue. The rubber bezel and bracelet are dark blue, as are the hands and printed markings on the dial.

The specs of the watch are identical to the standard model. The aluminium case is 40 mm in diameter, with a titanium case back and an ETA 2892 within.

A good cause

The Aluminium Tricolore is a limited edition of 1,050 watches. The first 50 watches are each individually numbered out of 50, and all proceeds from their sale will go to children’s hospitals in Rome, Genoa, and Milan, via a fundraising project organised by the Italian Air Force. Additionally, three examples will be sold at a Christie’s auction in Milan in December, with proceeds going to the same cause.

And the subsequent 1,000 watches will be available at stores from December 2020 onwards.

Key facts and price

Bulgari Aluminium Tricolore
Ref. 103514

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Aluminium with titanium case back and bezel covered in blue rubber
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: B77 (ETA 2892)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Rubber link bracelet

Limited edition: 50 individually numbered pieces, and another 1,000 watches
Availability: From December 2020 at boutiques
Price: US$3,050; or 4,190 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Bulgari.com.

Smart and original in design, the Octo Finissimo is extremely slim, well priced, and a strong seller for Bulgari, which has rolled out many iterations, including one in matte-black ceramic last year. Now Bulgari has added the shiny version to the line up with the Octo Finissimo Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic.

Initial thoughts

The new Octo in all its glossy glory is ideal for anyone who found the original ceramic Octo flat and dull.

But I prefer the matte version – the muted look very much suits the style of the watch. At the same time, polished ceramic, especially for a thin and lightweight watch, is too reminiscent of plastic.

That aside, the technical appeal of the ceramic case and bracelet is the same as with the matte model. Both are constructed identically – simple and complex at the same time – differing only in the finish and colour.

Though visually identical to the metal-alloy models, the ceramic Octo has an entirely different construction, which was a necessity due to the material. That’s an appealing factor in itself, because the watch was designed from the ground up as an all-ceramic watch; even the dial is ceramic.

The new Octo Finissimo is light and smooth on the wrist. In fact, it is difficult to distinguish the tangible feel of the two ceramic versions from each other, and even from the titanium version.

And like all other versions of the Octo, the new version wears well, with one caveat: wrists below a certain circumference don’t really suit the watch, so it’s worth trying it on before buying. Because the case is wide and flat, on a small wrist the watch feels a bit too much like a biscuit.

Ceramic details

The ceramic Octo is almost entirely ceramic. Except for the movement, hands, and pins for the bracelet, the watch is ceramic though and through, including the dial and clasp.

Though it looks identical to the titanium Octo Finissimo, the ceramic version is constructed entirely differently. The degree of difference is illustrated by the case heights – the titanium version is 5.15 mm high, while the ceramic is 5.5 mm.

Because ceramic is hard but brittle, it can’t withstand torsional force, which means no screws can be used in ceramic. The ceramic case middle is instead sandwiched in-between the bezel and back.

The bezel is actually a ceramic cap over a titanium inner bezel, which has tubes to accommodate case back screws, which are actually hex-head bolts. The bolts go in through the back, through the tubes and into the titanium bezel, holding the whole case together.

The back with its eight hex-head bolts

Equally notable is the bracelet. In fact, during a conversation earlier in the year, Fabrizio Buonamassa, Bulgari’s talented design chief, said the bracelet was probably the most challenging part of the watch to construct and produce.

Specifically, it was the eight links at the clasp, which are hollowed out on the reverse in order to accommodate the clasp, which sits in the recesses in order to be as flat as possible when closed.

The eight links had to be extremely thin – Mr Buonamassa describes them as “absolutely thin” – yet strong enough to be durable. The thinness was straightforward enough to achieve with the titanium bracelet, but altogether more complex for ceramic.

As the links are produced by a process known as sintering – heating ceramic powder in a mould to fuse the powder – getting the exact thinness for the hollow links was difficult, particularly because the links have to be shrunk to the right size and density during the sintering process.

The clasp is also unique to the ceramic version. While the metal versions of the watch have sprung, friction-fit closures that are part of the clasp, the ceramic clasp is rigid and so uses sprung ball bearings instead.

The hollowed out links at the clasp

The all-ceramic clasp

Shades of black

Both versions of the Octo Finissimo in ceramic vary only in colour and surface finish. Though the new Octo is officially “Sandblast-Polished Ceramic”, it is mostly polished, with only the central portions of each link sandblasted to a matte finish.

Generally simple in execution, the polished finish is consistent and even, and excellent at the price point. But the polished finish creates its own aesthetic shortcoming: the edges of the case and bracelet are more rounded than on the matte version. As a result, the watch looks slightly softer and shinier, and less precisely shaped than the matte version.

The polished ceramic Octo (left), and its matte counterpart

The rounded edges of the case and bracelet also results in obvious gaps where the components join, namely in between each link as well as where the bracelet meets the case. In fact, the gaps appear more prominent on the polished model than on the matte version.

It is doubtlessly an optical illusion due to the rounded edges – I’m certain tolerances are the same for both versions – but the gaps are more apparent.

The hidden clasp

Made of ceramic, the dial is smartly done in different shades and textures, giving it good legibility, despite the lack of colour.

The dial is a matte dark grey, while the hands and hour markers are a glossy medium grey, allowing them to catch the light and stand out against the dial. And in a smart detail reflecting the thought that went into its design, the subsidiary seconds track is printed in matte black, separating it from the rest of the dial markings.

The shiny hour markers and logo are made of thin metal stickers

The movement

The thinnest automatic movement on the market, the BVL138 inside manages a power reserve of 60 hours, thanks to the largish barrel that’s combined with a very small balance wheel.

But more interesting than the running time is the its construction, which is thin yet reasonably robust. Some of the features designed to strengthen the movement can be discerned from the back.

One of the more obvious is the balance bridge. For stability – a more pressing requirement in a thin movement with even thinner parts – the balance is secured on both sides by a bridge, instead of the more common cock that is anchored on just one side.

Less obvious are the extra jewels in the barrel bridge – there appear to be seven in addition to the one for the mainspring arbour – which are presumably to stop any movement parts from grinding against the underside of bridge.

The balance bridge with its simple stud and regulator

A downside of the movement’s construction is it visual flatness; the view from the back is dominated by four large bridges that look modern and functional for a plain overall look.

Up close, it gets a bit more interesting. The finishing is attractive and slightly above average for a watch in this price range, which means neat, clean, and done by machine. The bevels on the edge of the bridges, for instance, are mirror polished, while the perlage on the base plate below the rotor and balance wheel is fine in size and application.

Concluding thoughts

Whether or not you like the polished finish, the slim construction of the ceramic case and bracelet is impressive. Combine that with the movement, and the result is a watch that is fairly priced for what it is. Plus the enormous variety of Octo Finissimo models – which admittedly diminishes the appeal of the watch a little – also means there’s an iteration to suit almost any preference.

Key facts and price

Octo Finissimo Automatic Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic
Ref. 103368

Case diameter: 40 mm
Height: 5.5 mm
Material: Black ceramic
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: BVL138
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Black ceramic bracelet

Availability: At both retailers and boutiques
Price: US$15,600, or 22,000 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Bulgari.com.