Omega just announced a calibre that sets a new standard for chronometry thanks to a proprietary silicon hairspring known as Spirate. With a promised daily rate of 0/+2 seconds, the new movement set a new benchmark thanks to a silicon hairspring that can be precisely adjusted thanks to its patented form.

The shape of the hairspring allows for diabolically fine adjustment – the watchmaker adjusts the attachment point of the hairspring via a micrometric screw on the balance bridge –  making it possible to obtain a rate precision never before achieved for a mass-produced movement.

The Spirate hairspring attached to the Omega adjustable mass balance

The importance of chronometry

In the past, chronometer competitions conducted by observatories in Geneva, Neuchâtel, London, and a handful of other European cities were a platform for watch brands to prove their mastery of time measurement, with the prize winners declaring themselves “master chronometers”.

The observatory contests were ended soon after Seiko starting sweeping the board with its mechanical chronometers. And in any case, the accuracy of a mechanical watch has rarely been of importance since 1969 when Seiko launched the first quartz wristwatch. Quartz standardisation made it possible to surpass the precision of the finest mechanical chronometer movements by a factor of at least 10 – at a far lower cost – eliminating the functionality necessity of a precision mechanical movement.

A Patek Philippe tourbillon pocket watch that was tested by the Geneva observatory in 1931 and claimed first prize

Today, there are only a few brands that have invested enough to stake out a significant position in mechanical chronometers. Many brands claim chronometric excellence, but few prove it with official certification such as that offered by Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (better known as COSC), which certifies only the movement before it is cased. Other institutions arguably offering a more comprehensive certification by testing and certifying complete watches, including the observatories at Geneva and Besançon.

But perhaps the holy grail of chronometric testing is the double certification known as Master Chronometer. First adopted by Omega, Master Chronometer combines COSC testing of an uncased movement followed by testing of the complete watch by a lab overseen by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), a process that includes testing the magnetism resistance of the watch up to 15,000 Gauss. Almost a decade after the certification was launched, there are only two brands that offer Master Chronometer watches: Omega and Tudor.

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic, the brand’s only Master Chronometer

The historical chronometric champion

Rolex was a pioneer in adopting chronometric excellence as a key element of its marketing, ever since it began labelling the dials of its COSC-certified watches with the declaration “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”. But because COSC tests only the finished movement without case or dial attached, every finished Rolex watch now undergoes an additional chronometry test performed by Rolex itself. The process tests the entire watch to a more stringent level than COSC standards, making it a double certification of sorts akin to Master Chronometer.

Known as Superlative Chronometer, in-house Rolex certification criteria demands a maximum deviation of +2/-2 seconds per day, which translates into a maximum range of four seconds. COSC, on the other hand, requires just +6/-4 seconds a day, equivalent to a range of ten seconds, which is derived from the ISO 3159 standard that defines a “chronometer”.

The only downside is the fact that the testing of the complete watch is done is in-house – Rolex tests its own watches by itself – which means it lacks the stamp of approval of an independent state authority, which Master Chronometer has thanks to METAS oversight.

The battle continues

In a provocative move, Rolex embarked on Master Chronometer certification in May 2021, but only for a single model from its subsidiary brand Tudor. Though trivial on its face, the move was like meant as a message for Omega and its parent Swatch Group.

The debut of the Tudor Master Chronometer implied Rolex did not need an official, external certification to prove its claimed supremacy in chronometric excellence. Moreover, it indicated the Master Chronometer certification was easily within reach of its subsidiary brand specialising in affordable watches.

Two years on, Tudor still has only one watch in its catalogue that is a certified Master Chronometer. One wonders if Tudor’s narrow adoption of the certification was merely to prove that Master Chronometer certification itself was not particularly exceptional.

The Tudor Master Chronometer

Omega, on the other hand, has 95% of its mechanical movements certified as Master Chronometers (almost all of which are equipped with its Co-Axial escapement), which is about 500,000 watches, while the rest of its mechanical watch production is COSC certified. This mass testing and certification is an industrial achievement on a different scale relative to the few thousand Master Chronometer watches certified by Tudor.

With the launch of the Spirate hairspring, Omega has just fired another volley in the chronometric war between Switzerland’s biggest watch brands. It will be interesting to see how Rolex responds.

The world’s biggest luxury-watch fair, Watches & Wonders (W&W), is set to take place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023 at the Palexpo convention centre.

The successor to both SIHH and Baselworld, W&W will see forty-eight brands showcase their latest. This year’s exhibitors include Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, as well as the the big luxury groups, namely Richemont, which owns Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, and A. Lange & Söhne, and LVMH, owner of TAG Heuer, Zenith, and Hublot.

W&W will be open to the public on its final two days of April 1 and 2. Tickets, however, will be required to attend W&W. They will be available for purchase on the W&W website starting February 1, 2023, at 12 pm (GMT+1). A ticket costs CHF 70, similar to that of Baselworld.

Beyond the fair in Palexpo, W&W also encompasses events in the city centre meant to enhance accessibility. Exhibiting brands with boutiques along Rue du Rhône and Rues Basses, adjacent streets in Geneva’s prime shopping area, will stage their own events and exhibitions in their stores. At the same time, the organising body of W&W will have talks and panel discussions at its headquarters at Pont de la Machine.

The public days of W&W bring it closer to the Baselworld model, which historically opened its doors to one and all, both in terms of exhibitors and visitors. As a result, Baselworld enjoyed a six-figure visitors numbers in its best years (though its exhibitors included the jewellery trade and suppliers). In contrast, SIHH was traditionally an invitation-only event focused on higher-end brands.

Event details

Watches & Wonders Geneva takes place from March 27 to April 2, 2023, at Palexpo in Geneva, Switzerland.

The first five days of the event will only be open to invited members of the trade, namely press, retailers, and clients of the participating brands. The fair will open to the public on April 1 and 2.

Tickets for the public days will available starting February 1, 2023, at 12 pm (GMT+1) on Watchesandwonders.com.

Having just announced the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned programme, the Geneva watchmaking giant has in the headlines everywhere. The programme is certainly a significant development, though it will probably play out in a more nuanced manner than predicted in most media.

To recap, Rolex Certified Pre-Owned is open to all and any of the brand’s retailers on a voluntary basis. It allows a retailer to sell pre-owned Rolex watches – that have to be at least three years old – but only after they have gone through an official Rolex service centre. Importantly, retailers will have to source their own pre-owned inventory, pay Rolex for servicing, and are free to set prices on their pre-owned offerings.

Such certified pre-owned (CPO) watches will be accompanied by a two-year guarantee as well as a Rolex Certified Pre-Owned guarantee card (in addition to the original guarantee card and accessories if available). The first to embark on the CPO programme is the biggest Rolex retailer in Europe, Bucherer, which already has CPO watches on sale. Other retailers will be able to do the same from spring 2023 should they choose to do so.

Crucially, Rolex CPO has nothing to do with the grey market, which is the market for brand-new watches sold via non-authorised channels. It is where brand-new Rolex watches sold at a premium to retail are transacted.

On the other hand, Rolex CPO all about pre-owned watches that are at least three years old. And Rolex knows exactly when a watch is three years old because of its point-of-sales systems. This means that brand-new Rolex can, and probably will, still be sold on the secondary market at premiums over the official retail price – but not by official CPO retailers.

At the same time, Rolex doesn’t mention vintage watches (typically those over 30 years old) in the announcement of the programme, but it is logical that vintage watches will be part of the CPO programme but on a negligible scale since the vast majority of pre-owned Rolex sales are for modern watches.

Long in the works

In typical Rolex fashion, the programme has been in the works for a long, long time, despite being announced just recently. Rolex had been gently encouraging retailers, especially its biggest partners, to start selling CPO watches for two years or more. And starting last year, retailers were given notice that the CPO programme would become official soon, and so it has.

In fact, a hint of the company’s approach to the secondary market was already evident with Tudor. For several years now, Tudor has made it clear, in both print and public statements by its spokespeople, that its watches are accompanied by a “five-year transferable guarantee with no registration… required”. The implication of that is clear: the buyer of a pre-owned Tudor enjoys the same guarantee benefits as someone who buys it new, an unambiguous acknowledgement of the importance of the client who buys a pre-owned watch.

Why?

It is tempting to imagine that a luxury-watch brand gets involved in the secondary market simply as a matter of dollars and cents. However, given the scale of Rolex’s business, both in terms of sales and profitability, it seems unlikely that a CPO programme will move the needle very much. Remember that the only revenue Rolex earns from the CPO programme is the cost of servicing CPO watches.

Given the particular mindset of the powers that be at Rolex, its CPO programme is more likely an issue of control, data, and customer satisfaction.

Despite selling all of its watches via third-party authorised retailers – Rolex itself only owns one store that is located in Geneva – the brand has already asserted maximum control over the process of selling its watches. With magnetic-strip warranty cards swiped on proprietary readers each time a brand-new Rolex is sold at an authorised retailer, the brand knows exactly when that happens and where it happens. With the CPO programme, it can extend the same control to pre-owned Rolex watches.

With that, Rolex will gain an insight into customer behaviour over time as the CPO programme gains scale and reach. For instance, it will realise if customers are selling a specific model more quickly or more often than average, which might imply the ownership experience is not as satisfactory as it can be.

Crucially, the CPO programme is about ensuring the Rolex reputation extends to every corner of the market and globe. This stems from the fact that Rolex is extremely protective of its image, to a degree beyond that of the typical luxury-watch brand. From that perspective, it is perfectly logical that Rolex wants all of its clients – whether they buy a new or used watch – to enjoy a certain level of service and product quality.

Another business altogether

Even though the CPO programme won’t likely do much for Rolex’s financials, it may represent an opportunity for its retailers because of the scale, but pulling it off will be a challenge for any retailers.

The pre-owned business is a sizeable one, despite being extremely fragmented. Pre-owned giant Watchbox recently announced its 2022 revenue will cross the US$400-million threshold, while watch blog-turned-retailer Hodinkee has over US$100 million in annual sales, most of it from subsidiary Crown & Caliber, a pre-owned merchant comparable to Watchbox.

But getting to such a scale will be difficult for even the biggest Rolex retailers. For one, the economics of the pre-owned business are vastly different from that of brand-new watches at retail. The operating margin for the most recent financial year at two of the world’s biggest retailers is instructive: 20.6% at The Hour Glass and 11.5% at Watches of Switzerland.

In contrast, the operating margin for pre-owned dealer is typically in the mid-single digits because the business is primarily high volume and low margin, somewhat similar to a commodity trading business. As a result, even if authorised retailers grow their top line significantly with a sizeable CPO business, it will probably be accompanied by declining margins.

The Rolex boutique in Dubai operated by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons

Beyond the financials, it is also a matter of personnel and processes. The physical businesses of selling new and pre-owned watches differ vastly. Selling a new watch is, well, selling a new watch – perhaps not easy but certainly straightforward since the product is delivered by Rolex in a perfect state, while prices and margins that are fixed.

In contrast, selling a pre-owned watch requires sourcing, assessment, servicing, and then selling. Every pre-owned watch is different in terms of cosmetic and maybe technical condition, even if it is the same model. As a result, the skillsets required to operate the business is different, which means retraining existing staff or hiring a new team.

So retailers will have to build an entirely new operation to do the CPO business at scale, which requires a significant investment financially and a major commitment from management. But regardless of its scale, the CPO business will not offer the same margins selling new watches, which may be a deterrent for some retailers.

More competition?

The specifics of Rolex CPO means that it will have a modest impact on the broader pre-owned Rolex market, at least in the short to medium term, simply as a matter of costs and pricing.

Official retailers will inevitably operate on a higher cost base than unofficial secondary market dealers, making their offerings more expensive. The nature of official Rolex retailers means their operating costs are already higher to start with since their stores are located in swankier locations and outfitted more expensively. And of course, Rolex CPO watches have to be serviced by Rolex, a cost that will ultimately make it into the price paid by the consumer. But even so, the price premium for Rolex CPO is likely to be modest.

Ironically, it is the quality of modern Rolex watches diminishes the premium that the CPO seal might bring. Current Rolex watches are exceptional products that are the result of tremendous engineering and top-class production. Consequently, a pre-owned Rolex will likely be just as good from a functional standpoint regardless of whether it emerges from the brand’s own CPO programme or a reputable independent dealer.

If one day you found yourself in Geneva in need of a gold bar, does it matter if the ingot comes from Credit Suisse or UBS? The same can arguably be said of modern Rolex watches: since a Rolex is so good, how much is the Rolex CPO seal of approval worth?

In a surprising off-season debut, Rolex has debuted the record-setting Deepsea Challenge. Evolved from the experimental dive watch of the same name presented in 2012, the Deepsea Challenge is the first serially-produced Rolex wristwatch in titanium. And its rating of 11,000 m, or 36,090 ft, means it clinches the title of the deepest-rated dive watch ever.

Initial thoughts

Conceived as “the ultimate watch of the deep”, the Deepsea Challenge has nevertheless “been crafted with everyday use in mind”. In other words it’s gigantic at 50 mm in diameter and over 20 mm thick, but wearable because both the case and bracelet are titanium, making it relatively lightweight.

It is tempting to imagine Rolex will roll out other titanium watches, though I expect that won’t happen since the use of the alloy for the Deepsea Challenge is primarily for lightness, something less important for conventionally-sized Rolex watches.

As with other Rolex sports watches the technology behind the watch is impressive – in fact the technology within the watch makes it one of the most interesting Rolex sports watches – but it also incorporates details that enthusiasts will appreciate like the chamfered lugs that bring to mind vintage Rolex cases.

In short, it’s a little over the top but extremely cool. It’s somewhat pricey at abut 70% more expensive than the standard Deepsea, but arguably worth it for something that is essentially an experimental watch refined into something wearable.

Rolex’s historical dive watches, including the Deepsea Special (third from left) and next to it, the Deepsea Challenge concept watch

A record-breaker

The original Deepsea Challenge was a concept watch put together in a matter of weeks so that it could accompany filmmaker James Cameron on his expedition to the deepest point on earth, the bottom of the Mariana Trench at 10,912 m (35,800 ft).

Strapped to the outside of Mr Cameron’s submersible, the experimental watch was tested to 15,000 m and naturally survived in the journey in perfect working order. But it was immense at over 51 mm in diameter and almost 30 mm thick.

The production Deepsea Challenge retains the same water resistance – it’s rated to 11,000 m but tested to 13,750 m – but in a more compact case. Both the case and bracelet are made of RLX Titanium, a grade 5 titanium alloy that leaves it 30% lighter than the experimental watch.

The titanium case is first stamped before it is milled and polished

Finished with a matte brushing on most surfaces, the case has a polished bevel along its top edge, a detail reminiscent of vintage Rolex sports watches. According to Rolex, this was done to “highlight the curved profile of the lugs”. Though it was once standard on all Rolex sports watches, the case chamfer is now unique to the Deepsea Challenge.

The secret to the incredible pressure resistance lies within the titanium case, literally. The patented Ringlock system within the titanium case consists of a hardened steel compression ring that surrounds the movement. A flexible titanium case back screws into the base of the ring, while the top of the ring connects to the sapphire crystal.

Both the back and crystal flex slightly inwards under pressure, increasing the force on the gaskets between them and enhancing the sealing of the case. And the steel ring serves protects the movement and dial.

To ensure that the Deepsea Challenge lives up (or down) to its ambitions, Rolex tapped on the expertise of saturation diving specialist Comex (short for Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises) to develop a pressure-testing chamber.

This tank subjects the watch to pressure equivalent to 13,750 m (45,112 ft), or 25% more than the depth rating of 11,000 m in order to provide a margin of safety.

In terms of design the Deepsea Challenge sticks to the typical Rolex design code for dive watches, although the omission of a date is notable. The experimental model had a date, but the Deepsea Challenge does without out, resulting in a clean and symmetrical dial.

Also unusual is the matte, “intense black” dial that contrasts with the glossy finish found on most Rolex sports watches.

As expected for the top-of-the-line Rolex dive watch, the Deepsea Challenge is also kitted out with all of the brand’s bracelet innovations.

The bracelet is also made of RLX Titanium and equipped with a clasp that incorporates the Gridlock ratcheting extension as well as a Fliplock extension link.

And the movement is the cal. 3230, a latest-generation calibre that boasts most of the latest Rolex movement tech including the highly efficient Chronergy going train and skeletonised escapement parts made via lithography.

Key facts and price

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge
Ref. 126067

Diameter: 50 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: RLX Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire, 9.5 mm thick
Water resistance: 11,000 m

Movement: Cal. 3230
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: RLX Titanium bracelet with Glidelock extension clasp and Fliplock extension link

Availability: At Rolex retailers
Price: CHF24,800

For more, visit Rolex.com.

In a long anticipated move, the organisers of Watches & Wonders – now the world’s most important luxury-watch fair – have just revealed the 2023 exhibition will be open to the public on its final two days. The event takes place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023, so the public days will be on the first two days of April.

Simultaneously, the organisers also debuted the Watches & Wonders Geneva Foundation (WWGF). According to the announcement, the decision to create the foundation was taken by Rolex, Richemont, and Patek Philippe.

Both the public days and WWGF are evidence that the Geneva giants, Rolex and Patek Philippe, now have a lead role in the city’s major watch fair. Historically that position was occupied by Richemont, the luxury group that owns a stable of brands ranging from Cartier to IWC.

New titles for Messrs Dufour and Perrin

The WWGF will “organise… watch and jewellery exhibitions, in Geneva and beyond… and define the major strategic areas of this ambitious project.” Most notable is the fact the the WWGF will be chaired by Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour, while its deputy chairman is Emmanuel Perrin, head of Richemont’s watch division.

Though unstated, it is implied that the WWGF succeed the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), which was long the organiser of SIHH and also of this year’s W&W. Though technically independent, the FHH was regarded by the industry as being dominated by Richemont.

Anyone can now walk the hallowed halls

Accessibility

Since the first Watches & Wonders (W&W) in Switzerland was announced two years ago, there was speculation that tensions existed between the organising brands, with disagreements between them on several subjects.

In terms of visitors, there were two different camps according to senior executives at several participating brands.

On one side was Richemont, historically the dominant group at SIHH, the watch fair that was the predecessor of W&W, Richemont was keen to continue the SIHH tradition of exclusivity. That would mean only members of the trade and important clientele would be allowed in, while also limiting the exhibitors to those considered luxury or high-end brands.

The contrary view came from Rolex and some of the other brands that were originally exhibitors at Baselworld, the now-defunct watch fair that was once the world’s largest. These brands sought to recreate some of the all-encompassing accessibility of Baselworld, which at its peak had thousands of watch and jewellery exhibitors and visitor numbers in the six figures.

With the recent announcement, accessibility has won the day. The number of exhibitors now total almost 50, up by about a quarter from this year’s event. And of course the public will be able to admire the new launches, albeit through glass.

Though visitors without invitations will have to pay CHF70 for a ticket to W&W, the cost is not too far from that of a Baselworld ticket. The first five days of W&W, however, will only be opens to the press, retailers, and important clients of the participating brands.

For me, watches are and always have been about people – those that make them, those that design them, and those that buy them. And while many of you reading this will do your utmost (likely on a daily basis) to keep your interest in watches in check with your bank balance, every so often you meet a collector, an enthusiast, who takes things to a whole other level. Somebody who has gone all in, a collector who takes it to a level that even insiders like Thierry Stern of Patek Philippe rank them amongst the greatest collectors of all time.

Patrick Getreide is that individual. Having spent the past four decades quietly building one of the world’s greatest privately-owned collections of wrist and pocket watches, he has now put all of his timepieces on show for the world to enjoy and admire.

The show

I feel hugely privileged and excited having visited the exhibition on its opening day in London. Privileged because there were only a few press invited; excited because I believe it will open up our passion to more and more, aligning watchmaking with art, where it belongs.

The exhibition comprises 168 best-of-the-best vintage and contemporary museum-quality watches, among which are unrepeatable special orders, ultra-rare, limited editions, the most valuable examples of their type, and the largest number of Patek Philippe pieces once owned by the celebrated American collector Henry Graves Jr. now in private hands. It is also the first curated exhibition of a private collection of watches in any art museum anywhere in the world.

The opening event on the evening of May 18 that was attended by watch industry luminaries like Thierry Stern, Aurel Bacs and Livia Russo, Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver, James Marks, and George Bamford

The OAK Collection – short for “One of a Kind” – is built on three principles: quality, rarity, and provenance. And focuses on three major segments: Patek Phillipe, Rolex and Independents. And Mr Getreide is set apart by the fact that he collects new and vintage watches.

The setting for the OAK Collection is incredible. Firstly, the Design Museum is just a spectacular venue to set the scene. Clearly no expense has been spared in the display itself that takes place in a series of bespoke, interconnected rooms comprising 11 sections, each of which could be described as a chapter of time that encapsulates the collector’s appreciation of specific genres of watches, from simple, three-hand timepieces to high complications. And Mr Getreide discerning eye is reflected in every watch, which is in truly perfect condition, with the majority of examples being new or virtually unworn.

The OAK Collection exhibition will be unveiled to the public in London before embarking on a global tour incorporating four international stops at spectacular exhibition venues in the Middle East, the Far East and North America.

The man

One of the key parts of the story, and one many of you will be wondering is: who is Patrick Getreide? And how did he afford this incredible pursuit? The truth is – this is unclear. What we do know for sure is that he is a French entrepreneur living in Luxembourg who made his fortune by buying and selling companies in facilities management, commodities and real estate.

The interesting bit is Mr Getreide’s collection actually runs to over 600 watches – so the exhibition is actually the slimmed down selection! When asked about his youth, he says, “As a young boy at boarding school in Switzerland, I lived among the children of some of the world’s wealthiest people – but all I had was a small, weekly pocket money allowance. I didn’t feel envy, but I did want to be like these people and their parents. It gave me what I call ‘the Count of Monte Cristo syndrome’, a determination to achieve a level of success that would give me freedom to do the things I loved.”

What struck me about Mr Getreide was the sheer level of taste embodied in his collection. We are talking the most collectable and best preserved specimens from Patek Philippe, Rolex, and important independent watchmakers, all selected with a great deal of flair and class.

For every collector there is a watch that started it all. For Mr Getreide it was a Cartier Tank LC that captured his imagination, bought with the winnings from a horse-racing wager. In the early stages of getting into the hobby, like many of us, he would seek-out rarities everywhere he went. “As I travelled the world on business, I would always look for watches,” says Mr Getreide, “But it was at a flea market in France 35 years ago that I think I acquired my greatest bargain… a steel Patek Philippe Reference 130 Sector, and when I saw it, I began to shake”.

The 1980s Cartier Tank LC that started the OAK Collection

Although Mr Getreide long wanted to show his watches to other enthusiasts, it was his son, Roland, who first suggested staging a travelling exhibition, after having spent a lifetime observing his father’s undying passion for horology. “I have not been involved in acquiring watches for the collection, but I have been on the margins of it for as long as I can remember,” explains Roland Getreide.

Patek Phillipe

The OAK Collection is heavy on Patek Philippe. The brand’s timepieces account for six of the exhibition’s 11 sections, covering the Calatrava, Nautilus, World Time, and perpetual calendar or complicated models, in addition to the Graves watches and Rare Handcraft pieces.

A selection of vintage Patek Philippe watches with cloisonné enamel dials and their modern-day counterparts from the Rare Handcrafts collection

The Calatrava

Among the 20 Calatravas on display, 12 are vintage, four modern, and three are one-offs.

Highlights include the unique ref. 530 in steel with a glossy black dial and Breguet numerals; the only known ref. 570 in yellow gold with a two-tone yellow-gold dial and Breguet numerals; and a ref. 570 in pink gold with a two-tone rose dial bearing Breguet numerals. Add to that the unique ref. 1504 in steel with black dial and pink gold indexes, and you have a lineup Mr Getreide labels “The ‘Fantastic Four” – all truly “One-of-A-Kind” and all featuring Breguet numerals.

The “Fantastic Four”. Image – OAK Collection

And in a measure of Mr Getreide’s stature as a collector, Patek Philippe created unique versions of its contemporary Calatrava ref. 5196 that are modelled on the vintage examples – these are on show as well naturally.

One of the unique ref. 5196s in the exhibition, this one with a dark blue dial instead of the silver dial found on the standard model

The chronograph

There are 29 stellar chronographs on show, all but six of which are rarest-of-the-rare vintage watches. Among these is a unique ref. 130 featuring a yellow gold case, a single-pusher chronograph, and a remarkable, mirrored two-tone mirror in silver marked with a tachymeter scale.

Also exceptional are the ref. 530 chronograph in pink gold from 1956 that’s signed by its original retailer, Gobbi Milano, and the ref. 1436 in yellow gold that combines a split-seconds with a pulsometer scale.

Another example of the Patek Philippe ref. 530, this one with Breguet numerals

A selection of modern-day chronographs, including unique versions of the ref. 5070

Graves and Fullerton

The great Henry Graves Jr.’s fascination with Patek Philippe watches resulted in a collection that was inherited by his grandson, Reginald “Pete” H. Fullerton, who amassed an exceptional collection of his own. Henry Graves Jr. commissioned no fewer than 39 watches from Patek and only around 30 are believed to have survived, five of which form part of the OAK Collection.

Among the former is a stunning, observatory-quality tourbillon pocket watch with a platinum case that was created by Patek Philippe for participation in the Geneva Astronomical Observatory timing contest of 1933 – which it won outright, making it one of the world’s most accurate mechanical watches at the time.

Others include a gold minute repeater pocket watch that was especially made for him that was gifted to his grandson on the occasion of the latter’s marriage. Another is a hunting-cased minute repeater with an enamel dial.

The two Fullerton watches, meanwhile, comprise the ref. 3960, an officer-cased wristwatch, and the ref. 3969, a tonneau-shaped jump hours, both of which were produced as limited editions to mark Patek Philippe’s 150th anniversary in 1989.

In total, the OAK Collection boasts five watches that once belonged to Graves and two owned by Fullerton, which are perhaps the crown jewels of the collection. The only larger selection of Graves watches belonging to a single entity is in the Patek Philippe Museum, which holds 13. Three of the Graves watches in the OAK Collection are engraved with the Graves family crest and its motto “Esse Quam Videre” – “to be, rather than to seem”.

The Nautilus

When it comes to Nautilus, the exhibition includes no fewer than 16 examples. They include three early ref. 3700 models in different guises, including the only known Nautilus to have been fitted with a “special request” quartz movement and a selection of more recent models featuring chronograph and calendar complications.

The famous anniversary Nautilus with an olive-green dial

The ref. 5726/1A-012 with a unique blue-black dial

The complications

Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendar and complicated watches are among the firm’s rarest and most difficult to obtain. Among the six vintage perpetual calendar chronographs on display including the ref. 1518 “pink on pink” with pink gold case and pink dial as well as a pink gold bracelet. Another is the ref. 1518 that was one of just six made with large, Arabic numerals. And then there’s also the unique, first series ref. 2499 with a champagne dial. All just ooze class.

The “pink on pink” ref. 1518

Rare Handcrafts

The Rare Handcrafts section encompasses nine watches, vintage and modern. One is a pocket watch from 2017 that has an enamelled guilloche dial carrying individually applied hour markers in the form of tiny flowers made from yellow gold. Also exceptional is a hunting-case Calatrava wristwatch made to mark Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary that features a marquetry dial depicting a traditional sailing barque on Lac Leman, a longtime favourite theme of the brand.

The ref. 2482 with a “jungle” cloisonné dial

A one-of-a-kind vintage Patek Philippe ref. 2481 with a “compass” cloisonné dial

The World Time

Developed by Geneva horologist Louis Cottier in the 1930s, the disc-based world time wristwatches of Patek Philippe have long appealed to the most important of collectors, with several examples ranking amongst the most expensive Patek Philippe watches ever sold at auction. But world time watches become additionally covetable when they possess rare dial variants, an example being one of the two vintage ref. 2523 Heures Universelles, or “HU” for short”, featured in the exhibition.

The ref. 2523 HU two-crown World Time is one of just four known examples to feature a dial centre enamelled in vivid blue – Mr Getreide’s favourite colour. Another prime example is the pristine, 1963 ref. 2523 HU.

While the modern World Time pieces on show include no fewer than four with dials decorated with cloisonné enamel maps.

The ref. 2523 with a blue enamel dial. Image – OAK Collection

Rolex

There are 13 sports chronographs by Rolex on show, eight of which are vintage and five modern. Among the former, highlights include an exceptionally rare 1961 Daytona issued to the Peruvian airforce, better known as Fuerza Aerea del Peru (FAP), and a 1966 Daytona that not only features a sought-after “Paul Newman” dial but was originally owned by NASA astronaut Walter Cunningham who piloted the Apollo 7 lunar module.

The modern examples on show range from a yellow gold Daytona powered by the Rolex-modified version of the famous Zenith El Primero automatic movement, to the platinum Daytona launched in 2013 and powered by the in-house cal. 4130.

A 1945 Rolex ref. 3525 with an interesting history

The “Chuck Yeager” GMT-Master was part of a limited run of customised watches made by Japanese retailer Real McCoy’s

The indies

In this section we see rare references from Francois-Paul Journe and Kari Voutilainen, both of whom have supplied the collector with some exceptional, and occasionally custom-made, pieces.

One of my personal favourites was the F.P. Journe Ruthenium set that comprises a Chronometre a Resonance, Octa Calendrier, Tourbillon Souverain, Octa Chronograph and Octa Jour et Nuit. The five watches date from 2002, a time when the maker’s excellence was only just becoming recognised. Made in a limited edition of 99 pieces each, all have movements made from ruthenium-plated brass along with ruthenium-coated dials, hence the name. Even more remarkably, each watch is in “new old stock” condition.

There are five Voutilainen watches on display, all in equally pristine condition. One is the unique Voutilainen created for the charity auction Only Watch 2015.

The F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Ruthenium. Image – OAK Collection

Fun facts

The oldest watch on show is a slim, hunter case, minute repeating dress watch in yellow gold that was made in 1927 and then sold to Henry Graves Jr. in 1927. With its provenance and mint condition, the watch is probably one of the best simple minute repeating Patek Philippe watches known.

The newest watch is a Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014 – the celebrated Nautilus with a green dial that was launched in 2021.

The 1927 Graves minute repeater. Image – OAK Collection

The largest watch is the observatory tourbillon pocket watch in platinum once owned by Henry Graves Jr. that measures 48 mm in diameter, while the largest wrist watches are those in the Nautilus section. And the smallest watch in the exhibition is a Calatrava ref. 96 that has a diameter of just 30.5 mm, which is also in platinum like the tourbillon pocket watch.

The most complicated watch is the contemporary ref. 5208, which features a minute repeater, perpetual calendar and chronograph. And the only watch with a quartz movement is the vintage Nautilus ref. 3700 that’s the only quartz example of the reference in existence, having been made upon special request by a doctor.

The smallest. Image – OAK Collection

And the biggest. Image – OAK Collection

Close

Just promise me that if you do one thing, go see this exhibition when it comes to your city. Beg, borrow, or steal the time from your wife or husband and make it happen. This is a must see for any watch lover.

The OAK Collection is on show daily from May 19-25, 2022, at the Design Museum in London. Entry is free.

Design Museum
224-238 Kensington High Street
London W8 6AG
United Kingdom 

After London the OAK Collection will go on show in other cities around the world in 2022 and 2023 – details on those locations soon.

For more visit Oakcollection.watch.

]]> https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/04/sothebys-hong-kong-spring-2022.html Sat, 23 Apr 2022 12:58:37 +0000 https://watchesbysjx.com/?p=134269 Sotheby’s is kicking off the spring season of the year’s watch auctions with two consecutive sales in Hong Kong that take place in a week’s time. The first is an evening sale of a single-owner collection of exceptional vintage Patek Philippe watches. And it will be followed by Important Watches I, which includes several good examples […]]]>

Sotheby’s is kicking off the spring season of the year’s watch auctions with two consecutive sales in Hong Kong that take place in a week’s time. The first is an evening sale of a single-owner collection of exceptional vintage Patek Philippe watches. And it will be followed by Important Watches I, which includes several good examples of independent watchmaking.

Though the single-owner sale has most of the significant vintage Patek Philippe watches offered by Sotheby’s, it doesn’t encompass all of them. One of the major lots is a Patek Philippe ref. 2524 minute repeating wristwatch. We take a look at that along with several other highlights from Important Watches I, both vintage and modern, including an arguably underrated complicated (and bejewelled) watch for men by Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A).

Important Watches I starts at 2:00 pm (GMT +8) on April 26, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here.

The VC&A Midnight Poetic Wish

Lot 2144: Rolex Daytona ref. 16523 “Floating” signed “Tiffany & Co.”

The most desirable Rolex Daytonas are typically steel, with the two-tone versions often being the most affordable, perhaps because the two-tone look is generally less sought after regardless of brand.

But this steel-and-gold ref. 16523 is notable enough that it was included in Daytona Perpetual, the reference tome covering many rare and unusual variants of the model published by Italian Rolex specialist Pucci Papaleo.

The key features of this Daytona lie with the dial, as is often the case with vintage Rolex. It’s a “porcelain” dial, named after the translucent, white lacquer finish that resembles porcelain and was only used by Rolex for a brief period.

But more importantly, has “COSMOGRAPH” located far below the main body of text under 12 o’clock, hence the “floating” moniker. And to top it all off, the dial is signed by American jeweller Tiffany & Co.

The rare and desirable features on the dial result in an extremely desirable watch. Proof of its significance is the fact that a similar example was sold for around US$133,000 at Christie’s in 2020.

And that is despite the two-tone case and bracelet, which actually brings with it the upside of accessibility, relatively speaking; this will certainly be more affordable than a comparable Daytona in steel.

The ref. 16523 is in excellent condition and has an estimate of HK$950,000-1.2 million, or about US$121,200-255,100. Full lot details here.

Lot 2176: Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph ref. 5980/1R “Tiffany & Co.”

All Nautilus models are currently all the rage, so it becomes the most minor of differences that separate the hot from the ultra-hot. One of the hottest sub-genres within the Nautilus category is the double-signed watch.

While historically Patek Philippe put the names of a variety of retailers on the dial, only Tiffany & Co. has that privilege in the modern day. Such double-signed watches can only be acquired via Tiffany & Co.’s stores, mainly in the United States, resulting in a rarity factor that can result in a multi-fold increase in price.

Introduced in 2013, the Nautilus chronograph ref. 5980/1R has been in production for less than a decade. Given its relatively modest annual production, it’s is likely that only a handful of them carry “Tiffany & Co.” 0n the dial.

Hype notwithstanding, the Nautilus chronograph is a stunning watch, especially in rose gold. Bold and elegant, it looks and feels like a luxury-sports watch. But today the ref. 5980/1R is more than just a pretty watch, it’s the perfect status symbol.

That explains the hefty estimate of HK$4.0-8.0 million, or about US$510,000-1.02 million – five times retail at the low estimate. Full lot details here.

Lot 2252: Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Poetic Wish minute repeater

One of the hidden gems of the sale is the VC&A Midnight Poetic Wish, a sublime, whimsical watch that combines quirky, appealing aesthetics, artisanal decoration, and intriguing mechanics. It is a five-minute repeater with an automaton that only comes alive when the repeater is chiming.

The automaton is made up of the figure of a gentleman walking across the roof of Notre Dame Cathedral and stopping to indicate the hours, along with a shooting star travelling across the Parisian night sky and pointing to the minutes.

The Poetic Wish is actually one half of a pair: the ladies’ Poetic Wish sports a similar complication, but with a female figure walking across a floor of the Eiffel Tower and gazing at Notre Dame, forming the other half of the romantic tale.

Like many of VC&A signature complications, both Poetic Wish watches were developed by Agenhor, the Geneva-based complications specialist best known for the chronograph movement used by Singer and Moser.

The movement is more than just a clever automaton. It is unorthodox for a minute repeater: the gongs are elevated, sitting over the movement and close to the sapphire case back, resulting in the spiral visible on the back. And the hammers are mounted in the centre and vertical to the plane of the movement, striking the gongs outwards.

The striking mechanism is supplemented by a constant-force mechanism that ensures the operation of the automaton doesn’t affect timekeeping.

And the movement also features a conventional time display on the back via a small sub-dial. That’s necessary as the time can only be read on the front when the repeater is activated and the automaton is running.

The dial of the watch is elaborate and delicate in its execution. Decorated with relief engraving as well as miniature painting, the dial also features mother of pearl inlay that forms the clouds. And with VC&A being a jeweller first and watchmaker second, the bezel and the lugs are ornamented with baguette diamonds.

With an estimate HK$1.2-2 m, or about US$153,000-255,000, the Midnight Poetic Wish is not exactly affordable, but it’s good value on two levels. For one, it truly unique and impressive. And the original retail price was more than twice as much as the low estimate, making it something of a bargain by that benchmark. Full lot details here.

Lot 2277: Rolex chronograph “Anti Magnetic” ref. 2508, signed “Bucherer”

Like the Patek Philippe ref. 5980/1R above, this Rolex ref. 2508 is a chronograph from a preeminent Geneva brand and bears a retailer signature, but it’s the polar opposite in style and history.

Made in the 1930s, the ref. 2508 arrived decades before the Daytona, so it has neither an Oyster case nor bracelet. But it is still a sports watch by the standards of the period: the case is oversized, 38 mm in diameter and stainless steel. And matched with a black dial, the ref. 2508 is very much a desirable sports chronograph of the early 20th century.

The dial is especially attractive with its twin scales for tachymeter and telemeter. While several dial variations exist for this model, this example is uncommon and also one of the most appealing.

The dial is complex but clean with all scales harmoniously arranged, with the hour markers being simple batons instead of the mix of batons and numerals found on other dial styles. The dial variant is rare in itself, but made even more desirable with “BUCHERER” just below the brand name under 12 o’clock.

The present example was produced relatively early in the model’s production run as indicated by the 38 mm case, as the later versions were a smaller 35 mm. This makes it a good size even by today’s standards.

Another detail sets the case apart: the pushers are oval instead of rectangular, also a rare detail for this reference.

The ref. 2508 has an estimate HK$1.6-2.4 million, or about US$204,000-306,000. Full lot details here.

Lot 2284: Patek Philippe ref. 2524 minute repeater wristwatch

While diminutive in size – the case is just 33 mm – the Patek Philippe ref. 2524 is one of the most historically significant watches in the auction.

Before the 1940s, Patek Philippe only produced one-off repeating wristwatch watches without a model reference that were instead identified by their movement serial number. And from the late 1940s to 1989, Patek Philippe only had only six minute repeater wristwatch references in its catalogue – this is one of them.

The ref. 2524 was the first serially produced minute repeater wristwatch by Patek Philippe, with the total number produced estimated to be fewer than 12 examples.

The ref. 2524 differs from its successors, namely the ref. 2524/1 and ref. 2524/2, in its “fancy” lugs. Elaborately sculpted, the lugs are far more decorative than the straight lugs found on later models. And for a brand not known for “fancy” lugs, this is especially striking.

But what sets the present example apart from other dozen produced is the dial, which is possibly unique. While the typical ref. 2524 has a dial with baton indices for the hours, the present example is two-tone with Roman numerals for the quarters and batons in between.

Inside the case is a tiny movement that was probably produced for a ladies’ pendant watch but then repurposed for a wristwatch. Going by its layout, the ebauche was likely by Geneva movement maker Fritz Piguet, though the barrel bridge is slightly different from another example of the same ebauche found in another Patek Philippe.

The movement is classically attractive, evoking a bygone era of watchmaking that contrasts with modern Patek Philippe movements that lack the charming, graceful bridges and artisanal hand finishing.

Note the ultra-wide anglage incorporating an inward angle on the centre wheel bridge

This ref. 2524 was last sold publicly at Christie’s in 2011 where it achieved US$400,000 including fees. A decade later, it remains in a well preserved condition, with a crisp case and clean dial. Now it has an estimate HK$5.8-10 million, or about US$739,500-1.28 million. Full lot details here.

And finally a little mystery. In its 2011 catalogue, Christie’s noted the watch was made in 1950 and sold in 1953 according to the archive extract. But today Sotheby’s says it is accompany by an extract stating it made in 1954 and sold in 1955. We have reached out to Sotheby’s to shed more light on this. I expect it was a typo in either catalogue.

Lot 2310: Patek Philippe ref. 5217P Tourbillon Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

Like the VC&A repeater above, the Patek Philippe ref. 5217P is lavishly gem-set and highly complicated, but unlike the VC&A it has a formal, traditional aesthetic.

The ref. 5217 is essentially the diamond-set version of the ref. 5216, a mega-complicated watch that includes a tourbillon, minute repeater, as well as a perpetual calendar with retrograde date. Despite the complications, the slim, compact movement inside allows it to remain a svelte 39.5 mm wide and 12.5 mm tall.

While the ref. 5216 is grand complication, it is a low-key watch with a Calatrava-inspired design. In contrast, the ref. 5217 goes all out to impress with baguette diamonds on the bezel, lugs, and taking the place of the hour markers on the dial. The gemstones are a good match for the grand mechanics, so the result is compelling.

Inside the ref. 5217P is the cal. R TO 27 PS QR, a movement developed in the 1980s but still a classic in the brand’s stable of calibres. The fact that it’s a top-tier movement by Patek Philippe is illustrated by the top-class finishing, exemplified by the “octopus” wheel with serpentine spokes that are rounded and polished.

Notably, this example is the first ref. 5217 to appear at auction, highlighting the rarity of the reference. This example is like new and has all the original box and papers. It has an estimate HK$6.0-10 million, or about US$765,00-1.28 million. Full lot details here.

Preview and auction details

All lots will be on show during the preview in Hong Kong during the run-up to the auction, which will happen at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Gallery, the avenue for the sale as well.

Preview
April 23-26

Auction
April 26, 2:00 pm

For the full catalogue, as well as viewing appointments and online bidding, visit sotheby’s.com.

This was brought to you in collaboration with Sotheby’s.

One of the biggest surprises from Rolex at Watches & Wonders 2022 is the GMT-Master II ref. 126720VTNR – the first contemporary, regular-production Rolex with a left-handed or “destro” crown. And just to make it even more different, it is equipped with the brand’s first-ever green-and-black bezel.

Initial thoughts

A brand that has preserved the signature style of watches for decades, Rolex is all about incremental improvements that are often evident only in the details. That’s exactly the case with the new GMT-Master II, which retains the trademark GMT aesthetic but is rather different.

In fact, it is very different, which makes it polarising – you either like it or you don’t. Initially the left-handed crown does look awkward on the left wrist; it feels off somehow. But very quickly you get used to it and it is surprisingly cool.

The new ref. 126710VTNR is priced about US$550 more than its counterparts with a conventionally located crown. According to Rolex, the price difference does not result from the rejigged crown position but rather the changes to the testing equipment necessary to accommodate the new crown position.

Destro

Most obvious is the crown at nine o’clock, which is accompanied by a repositioned date window. It is ostensibly for the left-handed, but will surely find fans amongst right-handers who want something unusual. It is intriguing, just because it’s so different from the rest of the brand’s offering (though Rolex’s sister company has long had a left-handed diver in its catalogue).

Moving the crown to the left side of the case is actually a straightforward process. Neither a new case nor movement is required, instead the fundamental changes involve repositioning the bracelet and dial. The new GMT-Master II is fundamentally identical to the standard model and made up of all the same elements.

To go with the crown, the new model gets a few other tweaks. It marks the return of a green GMT hand, which was last seen on the ref. 116710LN, the brand’s first watch with a Cerachrom bezel insert.

That said, the green hand is almost an afterthought considering the two-colour bezel in green and black, a first for the brand. Like the “Pepsi” bezel insert, the green and black insert is fabricated in two steps, starting with a green ceramic insert that is then treated to colour half of its circumference black.

Like the other GMT-Master II models in steel, the latest version is offered in two flavours, either a polished Oyster bracelet or Jubilee bracelet.

Key facts and price

Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II
Ref. 126720VTNR

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Oystersteel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 3285
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and GMT
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Oystersteel bracelet

Availability: At Rolex retailers
Price:
Oyster – CHF10,500
Jubilee CHF10,700

For more, visit rolex.com.

In a teaser before Watches & Wonders 2022, Rolex published a partial image of a watch with a smooth, fixed bezel and crown guards – a combination of features found in no current model at the time.

It was the all-new Air King ref. 126900 that gained a redesigned case and dial as well as a new bracelet and an upgraded movement. In other words, an entirely different watch, yet one that has the same spirit as its predecessor.

Initial thoughts

Conceptually, the Air-King is very novel for Rolex (just like the left-handed GMT-Master II) since it is the first Rolex to combine both a smooth bezel and crown guards. But it is still typically Rolex in its substantive upgrades meant to improve practicality and wearability. For instance, removing the soft iron inner cage means the case is flatter and sits better on the wrist.

The new reference is powered by the cal. 3230 equipped by Rolex’s proprietary blue Parachrom hairspring. This increases magnetism resistance while helping boost power reserve to about 70 hours, an upgrade from the 48 hours of the cal. 3131 found in the outgoing model.

Overall, the revamp of the Air-King is more practical than aesthetic since the look largely remains intact, although the watch does feel a bit more sculpted and refined. Having had the opportunity to experience the actual watch, it looks and feels excellent on the wrist.

Thoroughly updated

All of the design tweaks to the Air-King serve to make it more sporty.

The highlight is certainly the crown guards matched with a new case profile. Rather than the rounded, convex flanks of an Oyster case, the case has flat and vertical sides that are reminiscent of the brand’s other modern-day sports models like the Explorer II.

And the bracelet is also sportier in style with wider links and an Oysterlock safety clasp, both of which were absent in the prior reference.

The dial has also been reworked, with “5” replaced by “05”, giving the dial better balance and symmetry since all minute numerals are now two digits.

The Arabic numerals for the quarters are solid gold appliqués filled with Chromalight, providing greater legibility in the dark as they were not “lumed” in the previous model.

Key facts and price

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King
Ref. 126900

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Oystersteel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 3230
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Oystersteel bracelet

Availability: At Rolex retailers
Price: CHF7,000

For more, visit rolex.com.

For an uncompromising mechanical watch enthusiast, one of the most dreaded words in the specifications of a watch is surely “quartz”. Oftentimes that dread is followed by the thought, if only it was mechanical…

I must admit this went through my mind when I discovered the lovely Cartier Santos Dumont in 2019. And that was despite Cartier’s best efforts in communicating that the movement inside was a long-autonomy quartz calibre with a six-year battery life.

The Cartier Santos Dumont trio, with only the XL variant (extreme left) being mechanical

In the time since, I began to ponder the question: why do I seek the latest electronic gadgets, but am dismissive towards quartz watches? Just because quartz movements are often cheap and easily available, does that leave them uniformly uninteresting?

The Quartz Crisis

On Monday, December 29, 1969, tucked somewhere in the The New York Times was an eight-line paragraph that ended with “[the] world’s first electronic wrist watch with a crystal oscillator.” That electronic watch, as you may have guessed, was the Seiko Quartz-Astron. It was barely obvious at the time, but the announcement, innocuous as it was, would be the harbinger of a crisis for Swiss watchmaking.

The father of all quartz watches, the Seiko Quartz-Astron 35SQ in 18K yellow gold

The Quartz-Astron cost as much as a Toyota Corolla at the time of of its release – its price was equivalent to about US$1,200 – and was without a doubt a luxury product. Over a decade later, in 1982, Seiko launched a new line of affordable quartz watches, with its American advertising carrying the tagline “The People’s Quartz. It’s Everything Except Expensive.”

Alongside Seiko, American companies such as Texas Instruments began manufacturing affordable quartz movements and over the next few years, the sales of quartz wristwatches skyrocketed. These relatively high-end quartz watches faced low-cost competition from Hong Kong and elsewhere, where lengthy, automated production lines were set up to churn out quartz movements by the millions, working round the clock as though they were running out of time.

Taking place alongside the Quartz Crisis was the digital revolution, which saw the emergence of liquid crystal displays (LCDs) on wristwatches. Casio famously introduced the all-digital G-Shock DW-5000 in 1983, which still remains the pinnacle of the Go-Anywhere-Do-Anything (GADA) category of watches, some 40 years and 100 million watches later.

While the low cost of quartz watches was the primary driver of sales in the 1980s, the advantages of quartz over mechanical were manifold – impact and magnetism resistance, superior timekeeping, additional complications without the corresponding increase in complexity, and the list goes on.

The original G-Shock of 1983

The only drawback of a quartz watch is that the movement may stop without warning once the battery goes flat. An unscheduled trip to the departmental store for a replacement battery is the plan when you are in the car, but reality is that you would most likely end up with another departmental-store quartz watch. Quartz watches are disposable, as we have long been educated by salespeople all over the world.

With this reputation, it is impossible to change the consumer mindset to one where quartz is luxury. Naturally, premium brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe swiftly abandoned the concept of a high-end quartz watch after a brief foray into the field with the Beta 21 quartz movement – Switzerland’s first commercially available quartz movement – and instead doubled down on mechanical watchmaking. However, Japanese watchmakers like Seiko and Citizen remained resolutely committed to quartz watches, created a niche for themselves that few Swiss watchmakers wanted to compete in.

Beyond the philosophical difficulty of accepting a quartz movement as high-end, the technology is accompanied by a dead giveaway – the jumping (or deadbeat) seconds hand. While I have extolled the technical and philosophical perfection of having a deadbeat seconds in a mechanical watch, the ticking seconds of quartz movement is a horological afterthought – devised to minimise energy consumption and maximise battery life.

The Rolex Beta 21 ref. 5100 “Texano” – only 1,000 were made, the majority in yellow gold, with the white gold example pictured being exceedingly rare

Wait a second, what is quartz?

The story of quartz timekeeping began in 1880 with French brothers Paul-Jacques and Pierre Curie – the latter was Marie Curie’s husband – when they discovered the piezoelectric effect. For my learned friends who are proficient in Greek, piezoelectricity is self-descriptive, the very word is as direct a translation as possible of the effect.

For the rest of us, piezo means “to squeeze”, and piezoelectricity thus refers to an electric charge created due to squeezing, or mechanical stress in other words. And the laws of physics allow for a reciprocal phenomenon – the converse piezoelectricity effect – where a voltage can be applied to deform a piezoelectric material.

The piezoelectric effect is why a battery resides in a quartz movement: it is the source of voltage that causes the deformation of the quartz crystal. With the quartz crystal shaped like a tuning fork, its deformation and subsequent relaxation creates vibrations with a natural frequency that are a function of the length of the arms, like any other tuning fork.

Most quartz movements have a natural frequency of 32,768 Hz, which is about four orders of magnitude (or approximately 10,000 times) faster than the beloved balance wheel of a lever escapement. The vibration of the quartz crystal in turn generates a voltage via the piezoelectric effect, which is transmitted to an integrated circuit. The circuit then counts the number of oscillations.

When the preordained number of oscillations (for example, 32,768) is reached, the circuit records one second as having elapsed. Naturally, that results in two questions. Why is the natural frequency 32,768 Hz? And how are the constant vibrations maintained?

The tuning fork of a quartz Grand Seiko movement is small enough to fit into the 1 mm diameter tube in the background. Image – Grand Seiko

The first brand to utilise a 32,768 Hz quartz crystal was Girard Perregaux in 1971, when it debuted the GP 350 movement. The mathematically-inclined will realise that 32,768 is two raised to the 15^th power. In terms of computing, powers of 2 are preferred because they are the easiest to implement in binary terms.

The execution would look like this: the quartz crystal outputs a sinusoidal wave at 32,768 Hz, and it is first converted to a square wave or pulse. The first bit of the counting circuit registers every falling voltage (“negative edge-triggered”) and flips itself (from “0” to “1”, or vice versa). Notice that the output of this first bit is also a square wave, and this is fed to the second bit. At every negative edge, the second bit is flipped.

This chain of “flip-flop” circuit, 15 bits long, will reach 1 Hz at the 15^th bit. The electronic circuit then tells the second hand to advance one second according to that information. The smallest power of two that is greater than 20,000 Hz, the limit of human hearing, is 32,768 Hz, which explains why there is no audible noise generated by the vibrations within a quartz movement.

To keep the vibrations of the quartz crystal going, remember that every oscillation of the quartz crystal generates a voltage to the circuit. This voltage is then used in the circuit that oscillates at 32,768 Hz, amplifying the voltage, and then sending it back to the quartz crystal, providing the energy for long-term oscillation. The process is analogous to the the setup of a mechanical movement with a mainspring barrel that keeps the balance wheel going. 

High-accuracy quartz

While the basic principles of all quartz movements are the same, not all quartz movements are made the same. Just as mechanical movements use hairsprings of different grades, quartz movements utilise varied types of quartz crystals.

And that brings us back to the magic number 32,768 – the rapid oscillation of a quartz crystal lies behind the superior accuracy of quartz compared to a conventional mechanical movement.

Just as it is with high-beat mechanical movements, increasing the frequency of quartz oscillation by using higher powers of two can boost accuracy. An example is the 262,144 Hz Precisionist movement made by Bulova, now a subsidiary of Citizen. It runs eight times faster than a conventional quartz movement.

The Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph with a 262 kHz Precisionist quartz movement

A higher frequency makes for a more accurate calibration because for the same amount of elapsed time, the integrated circuit is able to “count” more oscillations when the movement runs at a high frequency, and then tune the crystal accordingly to achieve a higher accuracy.

Increased precision due to a higher frequency

In real world usage, the Precisionist is almost eight times more accurate than a conventional quartz movement, which means a deviation of a few seconds a month. To achieve yet another magnitude of accuracy – a few seconds a year – other factors come into play. We will return to frequency at the end of this section.

Despite the vast gulf between the two, a quartz crystal’s natural frequency is affected by temperature, just as it is with a traditional balance wheel. While mechanical movements use Invar-class alloys for balance wheels and Elinvar-class alloys for hairsprings in order to deal with the effects of temperature fluctuations, the quartz crystal cannot be swapped out for another material for better behaviour at a range of temperatures. Instead the solution is thermocompensation.

Thermocompensation works as follows: after tuning a quartz crystal to the chosen frequency, its natural frequency is then determined at several temperature points. The movement samples ambient temperature alongside the quartz crystal, and uses a reference table (“Look Up Table”) to translate the new frequency to timekeeping. In the Grand Seiko 9F quartz movements and the new 9RA2/9RA5 Spring Drive movements, the temperature is sampled 540 times a day at fixed intervals.

Also, thermocompensation makes it necessary to have the full resolution frequency of 32,768 Hz, instead of the binary counting described above. This method is informally known as the digital-count method.

However, this is not the only method for thermocompensation. As it turns out, the frequency of the crystal can be tuned by applying a slightly different voltage. This class of quartz timing circuit is known as voltage-controlled crystal oscillator (VCXO). And when the input for the voltage control is the instantaneous quartz temperature, the system is known as temperature-compensated VCXO, or TCVCXO for short. The Rolex Oysterquartz movements of the 1970s used such a system, and it is not known if TCVCXO has been implemented in wristwatch movements since then.

The cal. 5055 in the Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date ref. 19000/19019. Image – Antiquorum

Quartz crystals used in watch movements have temperature sensitivity of about 0.035 ppm/°C². Assuming the crystal is tuned to exactly 32,768 Hz at 25°C, operating temperature cannot deviate beyond a few degrees Celsius in order to keep time to within a few seconds a year.

Thermocompensation is therefore essential to reach the required accuracy in daily use, when sharp differences in temperature can happen when exiting an air-conditioned building and going into the sun for instance.

In contrast, the oven-controlled crystal oscillator (OCXO) that is used for highly accurate scientific instruments relies on maintaining a constant temperature. However, OCXO is not suitable for low SWaP (size, weight and power) applications, such as wristwatches that are usually powered by a lithium battery smaller than a coin. OCXO, on the other hand, are found inside master clocks, which are stationary, desktop devices that provide reference time to other electronic devices.

The G-02X OCXO master clock (above) made by Esoteric of Japan for high-end audio systems. Image – Esoteric

The relationship between frequency and temperature is approximately quadratic around this selected temperature range

As mentioned above, since quartz movements are restricted to quartz crystal as the sole material for the oscillator, better behaviour at a range of temperatures is impossible. That said, while the material cannot be changed, its behaviour can be influenced by another factor: quartz orientation.

Quartz is an anisotropic material, meaning that its physical properties are dependent on the direction the property is measured. Another example of an anisotropic material is wood – wood fractures more easily along the grain than perpendicular to the grain.

Quartz crystal axes. Source – ‘Three-electrode self-actuating self-sensing quartz cantilever: Design, analysis, and experimental verification’, Vol. 81, The Review of Scientific Instruments, June 2010

The temperature sensitivity diagram above is typical for a tuning fork quartz crystal, but for a small block of quartz cut in a specific direction – AT cut and 35° theta rotation – the result is a much flatter curve around the same temperature range. This means less reliance on thermocompensation for better timekeeping, or a movement can be made more accurate in the window before thermocompensation kicks in.

There is another benefit with moving into AT-cut quartz crystals: the frequency of oscillation is much higher, measured in the MHz (megahertz, or millions of Hertz). In theory, this can achieve reach sub-second accuracy per year. The Citizen Caliber 0100, for instance, promises accuracy of within one second per year.

Running a quartz movement at ultra-high frequencies, however, increases computational complexity and energy consumption. The solution adopted by Citizen is its Eco-Drive solar-power technology that charges the power cell regularly via solar panels on the dial.

The world’s most accurate quartz wristwatch, the Citizen Caliber 0100

However, while quartz crystals are very effective at maintaining a stable frequency (they possess a high quality factor), they may not maintain the exact frequency over prolonged periods, namely months or years. The term for this is quartz drifting or ageing. It has been established that frequency drift is most significant over the first few months of operation, and the drift decays logarithmically.

This is relevant for high accuracy quartz movements because the natural frequency of the crystal drifts over time due to a few factors. The purity of the crystal as well as outgassing from the crystal packaging can form surface contaminants that affect the mass of the crystal and hence frequency stability. Mechanical stress from the mounting of the quartz crystal also affect the long-term stability of the frequency.

These potential pitfalls can be mitigated during production by assembling the movements in a high-precision cleanroom environment, hermitic sealing of the crystal packaging, and calibration of the quartz crystal after a period of ageing. Both the Citizen Caliber 0100 and Grand Seiko 9F movements thus rely on quartz crystals aged for at least three months as well as sealed crystal capsules to counter these effects.

The anniversary edition of the Grand Seiko 9F quartz with the movement revealed through an open back. Image – Grand Seiko

Extending the Power Reserve

Increasing accuracy, however, comes at a cost of increased energy consumption. As noted above, the Citizen Caliber 0100 uses solar power to charge the movement, but there are other methods to increase the autonomy of the watch.

One of the best known is Seiko’s Kinetic self-winding quartz movements that are recharged with a rotor, similar to an automatic mechanical watch (though the Kinetic calibres are not high-accuracy quartz).

And then there is the unexpected – the Geneva independent watchmaker F.P. Journe. Its Élégante wristwatch with the quartz cal. 1210 goes to sleep after about 35 minutes of inactivity. A mini-rotor, essentially a free-spinning half-circular disc, functions as a mechanical motion detector.

The F.P. Journe Élégante 48

When the watch is moved, the rotor spins and generates a current. This current wakes up the movement, which then propels the stationary hands to show the correct time. F.P. Journe claims that this power-saving feature enables the watch to go without a battery replacement for up to 18 years, compared to the typical three to five year interval for conventional quartz watches.

In fact, if luxury is all about ease and convenience for the owner, then the Élégante is probably at the top of the game. The drawback is, of course, is that fact that the Élégante is not a high-accuracy quartz, so it only keeps time to an average accuracy.

The motion-sensing mini-rotor in the F.P. Journe Élégante, located near 4 o’clock

Can quartz have its day in the sun?

Beyond the allure of a brand, the draw of luxury timepieces is usually laborious finishing and assembly – all done by hand. We note that both are not exclusive to mechanical movements, the quartz-regulated but hand-wind Grand Seiko 9R02 Spring Drive movement boasts world-class finishing. Its full, rounded anglage that incorporates sharp, inward angles – exemplified by the corner between the two jewels below – are characteristic of high-end, traditional hand finishing.

The hand finished Grand Seiko 9R02

At a slightly more affordable level, the cal. 1210 of the Élégante is decorated as fully as a quartz movement can be. Its 18k red gold plate is finished with Côtes de Genève, giving it an aesthetic that is similar to most mechanical F.P. Journe movements.

The cal. 1210 of the Élégante with its 18k red gold plates, with even the electrical traces made of red gold

In short, just because the vast majority of quartz timepieces are made without human involvement does not preclude the existence of finely-made, well-considered quartz watches.

But that leaves the perennial reason to object to all things quartz: the electronic circuits cannot last forever and luxury should be forever.

With proper storage, high-quality electronic circuits can last a very long time, with a lifespan measured in decades. In fact, satellites and spacecraft constructed in the 1970s are still transmitting valuable scientific data from deep space back to Earth, despite the harsh radiation beyond our Solar System. And these space voyagers are naturally equipped with electronic clocks, albeit primitive timekeepers compared to those of today. Yet there they are, having travelled far beyond human imagination and still oscillating away.

Granted, it is often more cost-effective to simply replace a quartz movement instead of repairing it, explaining the perception that quartz watches are disposable. But that is a matter of economics and not an intrinsic fault of electronic circuits.

This reminds me of the philosophical paradox known as the Ship of Theseus: would the ship be exactly the same ship if it were entirely replaced piece by piece?

While there are no quick answers in the philosophy of identity, we have grown to accept H. Moser’s philosophy of replacing the entire balance assembly, or the “heart” of the movement, during a servicing thanks to its proprietary modular construction. Indeed, I am hard-pressed to think of a legitimate reason that quality quartz watches are inherently inferior to their mechanical counterparts.  

Concluding thoughts 

“Nearly everything is really interesting if you go into it deeply enough” – a good philosophy to live by, especially since it was good enough for Richard Feynman, the legendary, Nobel Prize-winning physicist. I wrote this article to prove to myself that quartz technology can be interesting beyond its most obvious point of appeal – good timekeeping affordable enough for anyone.

Quartz timekeepers are more accurate and requires less maintenance than mechanical watches. They are practically fuss free regardless of what the wearer is doing. From that standpoint – and our preconceptions aside – quartz is unequivocally better. If luxury hinges on time and effort invested, then the convenient quartz watch can stand shoulder to shoulder with the best mechanical wristwatches.

The author is a scientist working in the public sector. He graduated from Caltech with a Bachelor of Science in physics and history and philosophy of science.