Audemars Piguet recently launched more than a dozen new models and predictably it was the Royal Oaks that got the most attention. But the most impressive new release was unquestionably the Code 11.59 Universelle. It’s a grand complication that boasts multiple complications most cleverly executed, in a remarkably compact case – the size of the watch is an achievement in itself.

Though the Universelle is positively slender for a grand complication, it’s still a large watch. But criticising the Universelle for its somewhat ungainly looks is to miss the point completely. Just like a mid-engine Ferrari will never be a roomy vehicle capable of conveying four adults in comfort, a grand complication will never be a svelte watch. Even Francois-Paul Journe, a legendary talent who has long specialised in slim complications, needs a lot of volume to contain his most complicated watch, the double-sided Astronomic Souveraine.

Grand complications, or more specifically mega complications, like the Universelle, are never pretty. That’s simply a matter of necessity – the mechanical complexity inevitably results in an enormous case and confusing dial. The F.P. Journe Astronomic, Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, and Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile are all equally large and confusing. The Astronomic is the smallest of the lot and it’s still 44 mm by 13.7 mm. And the Grandmaster Chime is a titanic 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm.

I can confirm the Grandmaster Chime is titanic no matter how you measure it. I had the fortune of wearing a one for a while indoors. Poor ergonomics and an intimidatingly complex interface are its defining features, but the watch is monumental, both in terms of size and complications. It feels like the kind of watch for someone who is truly master of his own destiny, the kind of individual who doesn’t have to worry about elections or shareholders.

Watches like the Grandmaster Chime are impressive objects for the wrist, which makes them status symbols. Even at a distance, they are evidently massive, heavy, and intricate. That’s why the Grandmaster Chime is the ultimate watch for a certain class of collector, instead of an ultra-light Richard Mille.

The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300G

In contrast, the Universelle is much more wearable. It does not feel like a watch with two dozen complications inside (we’ll get to the complication count later).

In fact, the Universelle is probably too wearable. I feel it is insufficiently over-the-top – not imposing enough, not elaborate enough, and not obvious enough. Relative to the competition, the Universelle is to subtle, which will circumscribe its appeal (admittedly a moot point since only seven will be made this year and only double that next year).

But the Universelle should be maximalist – either classically baroque or hyper technical – enough to be instantly recognisable at a distance. That because grand complications are statement objects, even historically. As a matter of fact, the inspiration for the Universelle was just that – maximalist.

At the centre of the Audemars Piguet Museum sits l’Universelle

The 1899 timepiece known as l’Universelle was shaped like a pocket watch but is gigantic it would never fit into a pocket, making it essentially an immovable timekeeper, the ultimate desk clock.

Interestingly, l’Universelle was originally presented in a yellow gold case, as it is now exhibited in the Audemars Piguet Museum. But its prior owner, London-based watch dealer Marcus Margulies, commissioned a platinum case for the pocket watch, giving it a marginally more restrained aesthetic. But AP has since returned the watch to its turn-of-the-century glory by reinstalling the original yellow gold case.

Ingenious and concise

While its comparatively diminutive case might suggest it’s a lesser grand complication, the Universelle is decidedly not. Instead, the technical merits of the cal. 1000 within are substantial.

It manages to cram everything – almost two dozen complications – into a relatively compact package. The cal. 1000 is under 9 mm, while the case is 15.55 mm. And remember that the case is thicker than a conventional watch because it has a triple-layer back made up of a sapphire window followed by the Supersonnerie double back.

To put those measurements in perspective, the Universelle is a smaller watch than the Lange Triple Split that has a 15.6 mm case and 9.4 mm movement. Even though the Triple Split is likely the most advanced chronograph in modern watchmaking, it is not as complicated as the Universelle.

The cal. 1000 manages to do that with concise engineering that streamlines as much as possible. Some of the smart ideas are borrowed from other AP watches, like the extra-flat perpetual calendar mechanism derived from that in the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin. So the 48-tooth month wheel for the calendar, for instance, has a single layer of teeth.

The open-dial version of the Universelle

But with more space available, the cal. 1000 improves on the complications even if original idea was taken from another movement. As a result, the perpetual calendar does one better and operates on a 400-year cycle – meaning it needs adjustment once every four centuries – a substantial advance over the 100-year cycle of a typical perpetual calendar.

But possibly the most notable is the split-seconds mechanism. Historically stacked upwards and positioned under the rotor in automatic chronographs, the split-seconds has always added substantial height to a chronograph.

In the cal. 1000 the split seconds is elegantly positioned: the mechanism is smartly contained within an aperture in the rotor, reducing the movement height by 1.5 mm according to AP technical chief Giulio Papi. While 1.5 mm might seem trivial, it’s 17% of the cal. 1000 thickness of 8.75 mm, equivalent to eliminating one floor from a five-storey building.

The Universelle in profile

And the cal. 1000 is easy to operate. Its complications can be accessed in an intuitive and straightforward manner thanks to a practical interface. Add to that 20 m of water resistance and the Universelle is a surprisingly practical watch.

The cal. 1000 is also constructed to minimise the potential for user error. Essentially every function in the watch can be activated, set, and adjusted without fear of breaking something. This robust approach was historically missing in grand complications and even mere complications, though it is gradually becoming more common.

But as is expected for such a complex movement, the cal. 1000 does contain compromises.

The grande sonnerie, for example, is installed on the base movement. But unlike other add-ons to the cal. 1000 that a recent builds, the grand sonnerie is the same mechanism found in the AP grande sonnerie movement from the mid 1990s. It’s a strong performer, especially when combined with the Supersonnerie double case back, but one can reasonably wish for something new given the cost and positioning of the Universelle.

And then there’s the less-than-stellar view from the back. The full rotor is an accomplishment in a movement as complicated as this, but it obscures most of the rest of the movement – there’s a lot going on inside but little of it can be admired. At the same time, the movement finishing is monochromatic, resulting in a lack of contrast that leaves the details difficult to discern.

The cal. 1000 under the hinged Supersonnerie case back. Image – Audemars Piguet

A suite of movements

From a wider perspective, the cal. 1000 is illustrates AP’s cohesive movement strategy. At its heart the cal. 1000 shares the same architecture as the cal. 4401 chronograph movement but enhanced with add-ons like the grande sonnerie and split-seconds. Being able to develop a base calibre that can accommodate all that is an achievement in itself.

As a result of the shared platform, some of the complications in the cal. 1000 are also found in other movements. The Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT shares the base calibre and also the split-seconds mechanism.

The cal. 4401, a relative of the cal. 1000

Granted, some collectors might frown at a top-of-the-line watch sharing the same underpinnings as the modest Royal Oak Chronograph, but in truth a majority of grand complications are powered by movements derived from other movements or movements that spawn other calibres.

The Patek Philippe ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie, for example, is equipped with a movement derived from the base of the Grandmaster Chime, while the Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile gave rise to a range of more modest complicated watches, including several one-off double-face watches.

Tallying the complications

According to AP, the complications count in the Universelle is 23 – and it is just that. In my short years observing the watch industry it is inevitable that the complications count of a new grand comp is criticised for being misleading.

The method used by AP to obtain the number breaks down what is typically regarded as a single complication into its constituent parts, like a perpetual calendar being five complications – day, date, month, moon phase, and year – instead of just one. But that’s exactly how it has been done since at least the 1980s.

The Patek Philippe Calibre 89 of 1989 has 33 complications, a number derived with the same methodology. And the same goes for the Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile of 2005 (16) and the more recent F.P. Journe Astronomic (18). And even when “scholars” retroactively dissect the Henry Graves Supercomplication, the 24-compliation tally is arrived at in the same way.

The Calibre 89

A technically-minded collector, however, might rightly dispute one particular mechanism in the Universelle – the tourbillon. As the sharply discerning owner of the Vacheron Constantin Vermeer grande sonnerie told me, his pocket watch boasts the pinnacle of traditional, elegant complications, but “not counting the tourbillon, which to me isn’t a complication”.

Historically, the tourbillon was considered a device to aid timekeeping, much like an overcoil hairspring or bimetallic balance, neither of which are considered complications, even by the most imaginative marketer.

That has changed over time in favour of the tourbillon. While Patek Philippe did not include the tourbillon in the complications count of the Calibre 89 in 1989, Vacheron Constantin and F.P. Journe did for the Tour de l’Ile and Astronomic respectively. In other words, in the context of contemporary watchmaking, the tourbillon is always accepted as a complication so the 23 complications in the Universelle is correct.

With at least two iterations launched since the model’s debut – first in enamel and then onyx – the Code 11.59 tourbillon is third time lucky with the latest version of the model being the most striking to date. The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Flying Tourbillon Green Aventurine is in 18k pink gold with the centrepiece being the fired enamel dial dial containing crushed aventurine glass.

 Initial thoughts

Bold and contemporary appears to be the name of the game for Audemars Piguet, as the recent releases indicate a strong push of the Code 11.59 lineup refreshed with modernised and adventurous livery.

And the new Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon delivers on that front – love it or hate it, it is a markedly distinct variation of its conservative predecessors. The green dial combined with the package of the pink gold case and black ceramic case middle offers a striking contrast that’s intriguing in person.

Colour contrast

Black ceramic is the recent trend for Audemars Piguet, as the brand has been increasingly using the material as the case middle for the Code 11.59 lineup. Sandwiched between a pink gold bezel and case back, the combination is a decidedly contemporary appearance especially when paired with the stock rubber strap.

But of course, the appeal of the new model is the green aventurine dial. Made by firing crushed aventurine glass in an 800°C furnace, the dial glimmers and sparkles under the light.

The green colour luxuriously contrasts the dial adornments – the hands, applied indices and tourbillon frame are all in pink gold. Under different angles, the glossy dial surface plays with the light, allowing the applied numerals and indices to stand out.

The view of the tourbillon cage is as impressive as it has always been. A large aperture is cut into the dial, framing the massive flying tourbillon that is unobstructed from view thanks to its clever construction.

Technical Tourby

Powering the Code 11.59 Tourbillon is the cal. 2950 – Audemars Piguet’s latest generation tourbillon movement that was first used in 2022 in the Royal Oak and Code 11.59 lineup.

While it is easy to dismiss it as just another tourbillon movement, the cal. 2950 is technically accomplished. As a flying tourbillon, it exposes the three-pronged tourbillon cage and balance wheel with no obstructions, as the motion works wheels driving the central hands are offset and hidden under the dial. The rear of the movement is also interesting, as it incorporates a visually and tangibly tactile grand sonnerie style winding click for the mainspring barrel.

Key facts and price

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon
Ref. 26396NR.OO.D002KB.01 (pink gold, green aventurine dial)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 11.8 mm
Material: 18k pink gold and black ceramic
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 2950
Functions: Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with pink gold folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At AP boutiques and AP Houses
Price: Price upon request

For more, visit Audemarspiguet.com.

Besides the Universelle grand complication, Audemars Piguet has another ace up its sleeve when it comes to its line of round watches. Originally launched a blue enamel dial, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie gains sharper aesthetics with a smoked sapphire dial and a pink gold case.

Initial thoughts

A big part of the appeal of a repeater is the mystifying mass of racks and levers that drive the chiming mechanism and are most often hidden under the dial. Unveiling their secret is sometimes best done with the direct approach of not having a solid dial.

A clear sapphire dials is arguably perfect it for a repeater, because the complication is usually constructed on the movement’s dial side. Unlike other frontal complications such as perpetual calendars, chiming complications are highly interactive – the racks are set in motion during the chiming sequence in a mechanical dance, all while the chimes sound, a performance that elevates the appeal of the complication.

And for the Code 11.59 specifically, the tinted sapphire dial works especially well. Matched with high-contrast pink gold, it is an ideal complement for the case design as it blends an otherwise classical complication with contemporary livery that matches the modern styling of the case.

As a result, the new repeater is one of the most appealing watches in the Code 11.59 range, with an intrinsic appeal that few of its brethren possesess.

Contemporary package

While retaining the same case design, the new repeater gets a more modern set of materials. While the previous iterations of the model were entirely in 18k white gold, this has a two-tone construction with the case middle in black ceramic sandwiched by a rose gold bezel and case back.

But of course the highlight of the design is the sapphire dial, a livelier and more vivid presentation of the complication than its predecessor with an enamel dial.

Besides offering a partial glimpse into the mechanism below, the sapphire dial also catches the light, changing its appearance at various angles.

The dial design is streamlined with the pared-back indices and hands. The hour markers now omit the applied numerals at the quarters found on the original model, instead relying on simple applied batons for the hours and minutes.

Characteristic of the Code 11.59 design, the dial is encircled by an inner bezel with printed minute numerals. This ring serves to frame the movement, which is noticeably smaller than the case diameter in part to accommodate the octagonal case middle.

A familiar movement

Despite the modern aesthetics, the movement inside has been in AP’s stable for a long time. Debuted some three decades ago in its original form, the cal. 2953 is based on a traditional, manual-wind repeater movement and is evolved from the cal. 2907 found in the Jules Audemars repeater from over a decade ago. The classical construction means its requires extra care when operating the repeater, unlike the user-friendly Universelle that’s powers by a latest-generation calibre.

One detail worth noting is the space visible under the dial at six o’clock, which is explained by the fact that the calibre can accommodate a tourbillon, an added mechanism that is found in other iterations of the movement, like that in the Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie.

Key facts and price

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie
Ref. 26395NR.OO.D002KB.01 (pink gold, smoked sapphire dial)

Diameter: 41mm
Height: 13.6 mm
Material: 18k pink gold and black ceramic
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 20 m

Movement: Cal. 2953
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, minute repeater
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with 18k gold folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At AP boutiques and AP Houses
Price: Price upon request

For more, visit Audemarspiguet.com.

Amongst the wave of new Royal Oaks just unveiled by Audemars Piguet (AP) is a new “Concept”, the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT. Historically a platform to showcase novel materials and aggressive design, the new Royal Oak Concept (ROC) continues down that route – but more notably contains an all-new and cleverly-constructed rattrapante chronograph movement with automatic winding.

Initial thoughts

Much like previous models in the ROC line, the new split-seconds chronograph is a bold statement with a chunky, aggressive case, albeit one refined to become more wearable, especially in light of its size – it is the most wearing Concept to date.

Paradoxically, the movement within the large-format case was clearly designed with thinness in mind. For a split-seconds chronograph with a big date, second time zone, and automatic winding, the movement measures a modest 8.92 mm high, svelte by the standards of the complications mix.

And in contrast to the design (which brings to mind the Richard Mille RM 11), the movement is unusually refined and clever. An example of is the rotor that’s supported by a large central hub, which provides enough space in the middle to house the entire split-seconds mechanism. This serves to both reduce thickness, while simultaneously offering a view of the rattrapante mechanism without being obstructed by the rotor.

Deceptively oversized

As with most of its counterparts in the collection, the new ROC has a geometrically-shaped titanium case defined by sharp facets and broad flanks. The form is distinct and the only similarity to the original Royal Oak is the octagonal bezel, but here amplified by enlarged hexagonal nuts.

An subtlety in the design is the curved case and bezel, a detail that aids ergonomic comfort. The arched case allows it to sit well on the wrist, enhancing wearability to a surprising degree considering the (very) large dimensions of 43 mm by 17.4 mm.

With the movement being the highlight, the dial shows it off. Like the case, the dial is aggressively styled with geometric open working. The dial plate is actually a single piece of German silver that’s skeletonised, sandblasted, and coated black, while the bevels along the edges are polished and rhodium plated for contrast.

The big date is visible through the movement bridges at 12 o’clock. Meanwhile, the GMT function is located on the sub-dial at three and can be advanced in one-hour steps via the coaxial pusher integrated into the crown.

A solid base

Powering the ROC Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT is the cal. 4407 that’s based on the cal. 4401 that underpins most of AP’s chronograph offerings.

The base movement is 6.8 mm thick and addition of a big date, GMT and rattrapante function only increases the height to 8.92 mm – an achievement in slim construction. Without the big date and GMT, the movement will fit into thinner watches, which we will see in the future no doubt.

The rattrapante pusher at 9 o’clock

Despite everything, the movement diameter is unchanged from the base version at just 32 mm. The base chronograph movement was designed from the outset to incorporate a robust flyback mechanism, featuring a myriad levers to facilitate the feature. It also has an automatic-winding mechanism on the back, which contributes to its thickness.

The cal. 4407 however, widens the rotor hub to accommodate the rattrapante mechanism. As a result, the rattrapante wheel, and pincers are visible in the centre of the movement without being obstructed by the rotor at all. This optimised rattrapante is also incorporated in the Code 11.59 Universelle that also just made its debut.

Key facts and price

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT
Ref. 26650TI.OO.D013CA.01 (titanium)

Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 17.4 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 4407
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT, big date, flyback chronograph, split seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with titanium folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At AP boutiques and AP Houses
Price: CHF170,000 before taxes

For more, visit Audemarspiguet.com.

Audemars Piguet’s recent launches are mostly variations on a theme, but done well and strongly appealing, as exemplified by the Royal Oak “Jumbo” with a grained dial. The Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 41 mm is exactly that.

Based on the thinnest-perpetual-calendar-ever #RD2 of 2018, the model was first presented in the two-metal combo of titanium and platinum a year later. But now it returns entirely in titanium, an arguably superior presentation that more low key thanks to an all-brushed finish and strikingly lightweight.

The clever cal. 5133 inside allows for a case just 6.2 mm high

Initial thoughts

The new perpetual calendar is probably the best of AP’s new releases. It combines a clever, original movement with the iconic case design, packaged in a compact, lightweight, and mostly discreet manner.

While this perpetual calendar is no longer the thinnest in the world – it was trumped by Bulgari last year – it is still remarkably thin. At 6.2 mm high, the case is almost a quarter slimmer than that of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202. As a result, this feels like a wafer on the wrist, a feeling accentuated by the lightness resulting from the all-titanium case and bracelet.

Because it is entirely titanium, this does away with the mirror-polished components that were platinum in the preceding model. This results in a more traditional Royal Oak finish that is slightly more restrained and certainly more elegant.

The other element new to this version is the smoked blue dial. It’s handsome and suits the clean feel of the watch, but I would have preferred the tapisserie guilloche that is quintessential Royal Oak.

Admittedly, the new perpetual calendar is merely a variant of the 2019 limited edition. Repetition is definitely not innovation or progress but it doesn’t take away from the intrinsic appeal of the watch. And with both the 2019 and current models each limited to 200 watches, the total number produced remains modest, an assurance this will remain fairly uncommon (at least for now).

The ultra-thin perpetual costs CHF137,000, a reasonable proposition as such things go. It is certainly more squarely priced than the new Offshore in ceramic, and about the same as more ordinary luxury-sports perpetual calendars like the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin. Granted, most of its comparably-priced rivals are in precious metal, while this is inexpensive titanium, but this is undoubtedly more compelling both in terms of tactile feel and also the ingenious calibre.

Concept made real

Like its bi-metal predecessor, the new perpetual calendar is derived from the Royal Oak RD#2, the concept watch that was debuted in 2018 as the thinnest perpetual calendar wristwatch ever. Slender but weight thanks to an all-platinum case and bracelet, the RD#2 was just 6.3 mm high thanks to a cleverly designed movement.

The cal. 5133 inside was condensed to reduce the part count, while the calendar module was comprised of components spread out rather than stacked up. The result was a wider than usual calibre but one with exceptional slimness.

It quickly made it way into serial production as the 200-piece limited edition in titanium with the bezel and centre links in platinum. Though the concept watch had a traditional tapisserie dial, the limited edition simplified the aesthetic with a vertically brushed dial in dark blue.

The Royal Oak RD#2 Perpetual Calendar ref. 26586PT from 2018

The new perpetual calendar is essentially another version of the 2019 limited edition. The case is identical in dimensions, but now entirely titanium in the conventional Royal Oak finish, which means brushed surfaces accented by polished bevels on all edges.

Even though titanium is a shade darker than steel and marginally more difficult to polish, the case and bracelet are perfectly finished, giving the surfaces a lustre that is indistinguishable from steel at arm’s length. And the alloy is of course lightweight, giving the watch striking lightness that is probably as good as it gets for an all-metal watch on a bracelet.

At 41 mm, the case is slightly wider than that of the “Jumbo” but substantially thinner at 6.2 mm. Despite the variance in dimensions, it is reminiscent of the “Jumbo” in proportions, which is a good thing.

As for the dial, it is radially brushed and finished in a graduated blue that goes from a medium hue to almost black at the edges. It’s a good-looking dial but the smoked finish is verging on overdone today, with a range of brands turning to gradient dials for an easily-achieved new look.

The mechanics of the watch are unchanged, with the cal. 5133 continuing to do its thing at just 2.9 mm high. Based on the cal. 2120 ultra-thin movement originally developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre and used in the original 1972 Royal Oak ref. 5402, the cal. 5133 reduces the moving parts to a minimum in order to achieve its slimness.

The barrel, for instance, is of a “floating” or “hanging” construction with a pivot only on one side. The upper pivot of the barrel is instead secured by the underside of the dial, which functions as a main plate of sorts. Other innovations include the rejigged calendar mechanism that spreads out the wheels driving the calendar, resulting in a 32 mm diameter, about 10% wider – but very much thinner – than the standard Royal Oak perpetual calendar movement.

Naturally, the reductive movement construction requires some compromise. One is the relatively slow balance frequency of just 2.75 Hz or 19,800 beats per hour (most modern movements run at 4 Hz or 28,8000 beats per hour), which is not the best for stable timekeeping in the face of shock or other perturbations.

Another is a compact mainspring that has a short, 40-hour power reserve. By comparison, the latest-generation cal. 7121 found in the current Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 has a 70-hour running time.

Key facts and price

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 41 mm
Ref. 26586TI.OO.1240TI. 01

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 6.2 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 20 m

Movement: Cal. 5133
Functions: Perpetual calendar with day, date, month, astronomical moon, leap year and day/night indications, hours and minutes.
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 19,800 beats per hour (2.75 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet with folding clasp

Limited edition: 200 pieces
Availability: At AP Houses and boutiques
Price: CHF137,000 before taxes

For more, visit Audemarspiguet.com.

Undoubtedly the flagship of its recent new launches, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle is the brand’s most complicated wristwatch in recent years – or perhaps ever.

A project that began in 2016, the uber-complication rooted in history: it is a tribute to L’Universelle, the grand complication pocket watch from 1899 made by AP for German watchmaker Union. But the watch simultaneously pushes the brand’s modern-day watchmaking to the limit, particularly in terms of miniaturising highly complex mechanisms.

The Universelle is available in two guises, the open dial above and the solid dial pictured further up

Officially one of the brand’s Research and Development timepieces – the model is also known as the RD#4 – the Universelle is an exercise in combining into a single wristwatch all the traditional mechanisms that constitute a grand complication, and then some – perpetual calendar, rattrapante chronograph with flyback, tourbillon, and grande et petite sonnerie with minute repeater.

L’Universelle on display in the Audemars Piguet Museum

Initial thoughts

An assuming name that means little to anyone who doesn’t understand the historical inspiration, Universelle is a horological behemoth that captures AP’s industrial and mechanical capability.

Though it has a highly modern design, the Universelle harks back to a bygone era of high watchmaking that prized highly complicated watches incorporating as many features as feasible into a (barely) wearable package. In today’s market where “hype” watches are prized over all else and repurposed movements feel like more like business decisions than horological creations, the Universelle is a a refreshing and remarkable achievement, especially since it is a grand complication designed from scratch.

Big but not too big

As impressive as the lengthy roll call of complications inside are its dimensions, the Universelle measures only 42 mm wide and 15.55 mm thick – big but amazingly compact considering everything going on within.

Truly sizeable is the CHF1.45 million price tag for the “base model” with a solid dial. That price and annual output (just seven this year) mean this will be accessible to but a few individuals. But it doesn’t really matter because the Universelle proves that AP is back as a watchmaker of note that is more than its octagonal creation.

The open-dial Universelle costs CHF1.7 million on account to the additional finishing required for the skeletonised front

Expansive but compact

The Universelle is being launched in four variants, three in white gold and one in pink gold. Two dial styles are on offer: an open-worked dial with bridges that match the case metal and reveal most of the perpetual calendar mechanism, and a more conventional solid dial with a restrained, instrument-like aesthetic. The latter is the discreet option as its relative simplicity belies the mechanical complexity just underneath.

The solid dials (left) and open-worked dials. Image – Audemars Piguet

Counted individually, the Universelle is equipped with 23 complications and a movement made up of 1,155 parts, but manages to cram everything into a 42 mm case that is only 15.55 mm tall. The height is an achievement as the movement is self winding with a full rotor visible through the display back that sits under the hinged, hunter back. One innovation that explains the height is the split-seconds mechanism integrated into an aperture within the rotor – more of that below.

Despite being a highly complicated watch, the Universelle is user friendly, perhaps the easiest watch to adjust and set in the rarefied grand complication sphere. All settings are accessible by hand thanks to good-sized buttons, doing away with the need for tools to activate tiny, recessed pushers.

The hinged back. Image – Audemars Piguet

The three pushers on the right case flank are typical of a split-second chronograph, with start and stop at two and four o’clock respectively, while the rattrapante pusher is integrated into the crown at three o’clock. In fact, both the start and stop pushers are also nested coaxially into separate crowns for added functionality on a single axis – the crown at two o’clock toggles the sonnerie striking mode, the middle is conventional time setting and winding, while the crown at four is for quick adjustment of the perpetual calendar.

The black solid dial variant. Image – Audemars Piguet

Meanwhile, the left flank of the case is surprisingly straightforward and contains only only three pushers – a quickset corrector for the day, another for the moon phase, and most importantly the minute repeater activation pusher. Each of the pushers and crowns on both sides of the case are appropriately labelled with engraved symbols or acronyms to denote their functions, making them almost foolproof.

The practicality of the watch is further boosted by the fact that is both shock resistant and water resistant to 20 m.

The left side of the case with its three pushers. Image – Audemars Piguet

A monumental movement

Of course, the entire point of the Universelle is the movement within – the cal. 1000. The movement stands just 34.3 mm wide and 8.75 mm thick yet manages to check all the boxes that define a classical grand complication, namely a split-seconds chronograph, perpetual calendar, and minute repeater.

However, the cal. 1000 goes several steps further with the addition of a tourbillon, flyback chronograph, automatic winding, and a grande et petite sonnerie – a rare complication even by modern standards. In fact, the only commonplace modern complication that’s not included in the cal. 1000 is probably the a power reserve indicator, a function that is arguably moot given the automatic winding.

The near symmetrical dial. Image – Audemars Piguet

In some ways the cal. 1000 is old school in terms of construction. It is layered like most historical grand compilation movements. The uppermost layer, closest to the crystal, is the perpetual calendar that borrows the innovations that characterise the ultra-thin calendar in the Royal Oak RD#2.

The most notable feature of the calendar the reduction of the 48-tooth calendar programme wheel to a single layer, reducing the height of the calendar module. But the cal. 1000 dials up the complexity of the calendar beyond that of the RD#2 by adding a big date at 12 o’clock, along with a two-digit year indicator at four o’clock.

Below the calendar module is the base movement, which is derived from the family of calibres that include the cal. 4401, the brand’s workhorse chronograph movement. The cal. 1000 naturally is far advanced beyond the cal. 4401 that’s merely a flyback chronograph movement. It adds into the mix a split-seconds chronograph and flying tourbillon, as well as the grande sonnerie that is based on AP’s historical grande sonnerie movement.

One of the key innovations that helped keep the movement as thin as possible is the integration of the rattrapante within the automatic winding mechanism. The rotor is supported by a large central hub that is open in the middle, creating a space for the entire split-seconds mechanism. The same co-axial split-seconds is also found in the just-launched Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds GMT.

The split-seconds mechanism is visible within the rotor. Image – Audemars Piguet

All of that mechanical complexity is visible below a hinged, hunter back that is actually the outer resonating case back of AP’s Supersonnerie device. It’s essentially a double back that amplifies the chimes of the striking mechanism. In a conventional Supersonnerie the outer back is fixed; here it is hinged but performs the same function.

Key facts and price

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle
Ref. 26398BC.OO.D002CR.01 (white gold, black dial)
Ref. 26398BC.OO.D002CR.04 (white gold, beige dial)
Ref. 26398BC.OO.D002CR.02 (white gold, openworked dial)
Ref. 26398OR.OO.D002CR.01 (pink gold, openworked dial)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 15.55 mm
Material: 18k white gold or pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 20 m

Movement: Cal. 1000
Functions: Flying tourbillon, big date, moon phase, perpetual calendar, split seconds chronograph, grand sonnerie, minute repeater
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 64 hours

Strap: Leather strap with matching 18k gold folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At AP boutiques and AP Houses
Price: CHF1.6 million with open dial; CHF1.45 million with solid dial (prices exclude taxes)

For more, visit Audemarspiguet.com.

At its release in 2019, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet created lots of buzz – some of it for the wrong reasons, with the design being panned as uninspiring. But Audemars Piguet (AP) stuck with the model and swiftly tweaked the formula, resulting in watches that were better received, including the recent Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Starwheel.

Now the base models have received a facelift that does away with the plain dials of the originals, replacing them with a finely-patterned stamped dial. Available as either a chronograph or three-hander, the new Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet is also in stainless steel, making it (slightly) more accessible.

Initial thoughts

The redesigned Code 11.59 is certainly more appealing than the original, with the dial giving it a level of visual detail absent from its predecessor. Fans of the original will like the new Code 11.59, and those on the fence will probably be persuaded as well. But anyone who disliked the original will not be swayed since it is essentially the same watch but in new attire.

Although the dials are stamped, they offer a surprising level of detail. The pattern is intricate enough that I thought they were engraved with a CNC machine when I first saw them.

The “smoked beige” dial

And the one in blue

To go with the new dial are redesigned hands and hour markers. Gone are the plain baton hands and markers with Arabic quarters, they have been replaced by baton hands and markers with more detail. The markers are facetted while the hands are partially open worked, and both feature luminous filling.

Though slightly more modern than before, the new hands and markers are still slightly retro from a distance. I would have preferred a more pronounced, contemporary design to go with the distinctly modern case.

The new Code 11.59 makes it debut with a fairly compact line-up of just six references made up of two models, each in three dial colours.

While the blue and green dials are pleasing, they are quite conventional. The “smoked beige” dial, on the other hand, stands out for being unusual yet handsome. Plus it is the only variant with a ceramic case middle; the rest are entirely steel.

Starting at CHF21,000 for the three-hander and CHF29,000 for the chronograph, the new Code 11.59 is the most affordable mechanical AP watch. The Code 11.59 compares well against equivalent offerings from Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin – basically the best in terms of industrial-luxury – both in terms of pricing as well as quality. But the design will likely continue to be polarising, though not quite as drastically as before.

The new Code 11.59 line up. Image – Audemars Piguet

Stamped guilloche

AP recruited Yann von Kaenel, the guillocheur who runs Décors Guillochés in Neuchatel, for the production of the new dials. Specialising in traditional engine turning, Mr von Kaenel created the dies for the stamping process via traditional methods, namely engraving via a hand-operated straight-line engine.

His traditional guilloche dies are then used to stamp the serially-produced dials of the Code 11.59, explaining the unexpectedly fine patterning that resembles a basketweave. According to AP, this level of detail would not be possible with stamping that relies on a conventionally produced die.

The stamped dials are then treated to create the resulting colours. The blue and green dials are achieved with PVD, increasingly the treatment of choice for metallic finishes. Notably, the blue dial is exactly the same shade “bleu nuit, nuage 50” (which translates as “night blue, cloud 50”) as found on the classic Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202.

But the standout “smoke beige”, on the other hand, is done with galvanic treatment, first to create the base colour and then with an additional step for the dark shading on the edges.

Stamped guilloche aside, a few other details about the dial are noteworthy. While the case is now steel, the new dials still feature hour markers and hands in 18k white gold.

And the date display has a disc in a complementary colour so that it isn’t too distracting. That said, the three-hand model outlines the date with a frame, making it more prominent, perhaps unnecessarily so.

Finally, the redesign also adds a second scale graduated in fractions of a second, giving the face a slightly more functional, instrument-like appearance that goes well with the case styling.

A first in steel

In a first for the model, the new offerings are entirely in steel, save for the “smoked beige” that gets a fancier combination of steel and ceramic. This gives the new models an easy lightness on the wrist.

The rest of the watch is identical to the earlier Code 11.59 models, save for the crown. It’s been redesigned to have softer edges, as well as shallower but more numerous fluting for better grip.

The case retains the sandwich-like construction that characterises the model. It’s essentially a bezel and back containing an octagonal case middle. This modular approach allows for easy variation in the case materials, as done with the “smoked beige” models that features a black ceramic middle.

And the case continues to incorporate the novel lug construction where the open-worked lugs are only welded to be bezel and gently rest on the case back. The complex approach to the case results in an impressively nuanced finish with lots of contrasting surfaces and detail, but one which also brings lots of dust trapped in obscure crevices.

The steel-and-ceramic case of the “smoked beige” dial

Mechanically the new Code 11.59 models are unchanged. The three-hand is still powered by the cal. 4302, while the chronograph contains the cal. 4401.

Both are derived from the same basic architecture that underpins AP’s latest-generation workhorse movement for its larger-diameter watches. They have all the features expected of a modern, high-end calibre, including a free-sprung balance and a long, 70-hour power reserve.

The cal. 4401 chronograph movement

Key facts and price

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding 41 mm
Ref. 15210ST.OO.A343KB.01 (blue)
Ref. 15210ST.OO.A056KB.01 (green)
Ref. 15210QT.OO.A064KB.01 (smoked beige)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 10.7 mm
Material: Steel; or black ceramic and steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 4302
Functions: Hours, minutes, centre seconds and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Rubber-backed leather strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At AP Houses and boutiques
Price: CHF21,000 for blue or green dials, CHF23,000 for smoked beige (prices exclude taxes)

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm
Ref. 26393ST.OO.A343KB.01 (bleu nuit, nuage 50)
Ref. 26393ST.OO.A056KB.01 (green)
Ref. 26393QT.OO.A064KB.01 (smoked beige)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.6 mm
Material: Steel; or black ceramic and steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 4401
Functions: Flyback chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Rubber-backed leather strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At AP Houses and boutiques
Price: CHF29,000 for blue or green; CHF31,000 for smoked beige (prices exclude taxes)

For more, visit Audemarspiguet.com.

Audemars Piguet (AP) just revealed its new launches for the year and one of the highlights is a new version of the classic Royal Oak “Jumbo”. Harking back to the uncommon “Tuscan” dial from three decades ago, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ultra-Thin in white gold boasts a grained blue dial.

Initial thoughts

At a distance, the new “Jumbo” looks like an average Royal Oak with its white metal case and blue dial. But on the hand, it is evidently different. It is still thin and elegant but wonderfully weighty thanks to the gold case and bracelet. Granted, the quintessential Royal Oak is a steel “Jumbo” but the white gold case leaves this feeling a bit more refined and sophisticated.

And then there’s the dial. With its granular surface, it is recognisably different from the average Royal Oak – and also easily beautiful. The PVD treatment gives it a gorgeous metallic blue that combines with the texture to catch the light nicely.

Although it is not a limited edition, this feels special, mostly due to the fact that it’s the only white gold “Jumbo” in the catalogue. There is another white metal “Jumbo” in the line up – the platinum model exclusive to AP Houses – but it has a green dial that feels a bit too fashionable. This grained blue dial, however, feels more like a classic.

The standard steel “Jumbo” is already an excellent watch, combining the perfect proportions of the original Royal Oak with the excellent cal. 7121. This version in white gold is arguably better with its discreetly patterned dial and the lustrous white gold case – but at a price of CHF65,000. It’s a substantial sum but in line with the “Jumbo” in pink or yellow gold, but this one is more special given the dial.

“Tuscan”

The grained dial is a departure from the petite tapisserie guilloche synonymous with the Royal Oak, but the stamped dial is historical, with roots in the “Tuscan” dials found on some Royal Oak models in the 1980s and 1990s.

While the origin of the nickname is lost to time, the “Tuscan” dial was reputedly the result of hand-hammering. Introduced sometime in the early 1980s, the “Tuscan” dial made its debut in AP’s round, classic perpetual calendar like the ref. 25657, but is now best known for being found in the Royal Oak perpetual calendar, like the ref. 25820 for instance. The dial was also found in the all-platinum Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 14802 Jubilee edition made for the model’s 30th anniversary.

The Royal Oak ref. 14802 in platinum. Image – Phillips

Now AP has replicated the “Tuscan” dial with modern techniques. The dial of the new “Jumbo” is stamped to create a “finer and brighter” grain according to AP, and then treated with PVD to give it a rich blue shade, one that’s darker than vintage “Tuscan” dials. The result is a granular surface in deep blue that sparkles at certain angles.

Texture aside, the rest of the dial is standard “Jumbo” with a printed AP logo under 12 o’clock along with the applied emblem at six. And like other current “Jumbo” models, this has date disc that matches the deep blue of the dial.

Historically, the “Tuscan” dial is most often seen Royal Oak models in white metals, though a few examples in yellow gold exist. And so the modern-day grained dial is fittingly installed in a white gold case.

This is the only white gold Royal Oak “Jumbo” in the catalogue, but it is otherwise identical to other “Jumbo” ref. 16202 models. The dimensions are classic “Jumbo” and extremely elegant: 39 mm in diameter and 8.1 mm in height. But the case and bracelet in white gold give this a luxurious heft that is absent on the steel model, but without the ostentation of the yellow or pink gold variants.

Inside is the cal. 7121 that made its first appearance last year during the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary. It is just as thin as its predecessor, but far more user friendly. The cal. 7121 features a quick-set date, a power reserve of 55 hours (longish considering the thinness and size), and a full balance bridge that improves stability and shock resistance.

Like all Royal Oak models produced from 2023 onwards, the new “Jumbo” is kitted out with a standard oscillating weight in 22k rose gold instead of the anniversary rotor found on watches made last year

Key facts and price

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ultra-Thin
Ref. 16202BC.OO.1240BC.02

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 8.1 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 7121
Functions: Hours, minutes, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: 18k white gold bracelet with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At AP Houses and boutiques
Price: CHF65,000 (excluding VAT)

For more, visit Audemarspiguet.com.

Amongst the usual Royal Oaks just debuted by Audemars Piguet (AP) is the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm Black Ceramic. It’s the very first Offshore entirely in ceramic – both the case and bracelet are ceramic, as are the pushers and crown. And like all newer Offshore 42 mm models, it’s powered by the in-house cal. 4404.

Initial thoughts

The new Offshore is a straightforward proposition – monochromatic in black and white, and mostly ceramic. It’s essentially the original Offshore in a fancier execution, both in terms of materials as well as the movement. So you appreciate the relative simplicity of the original Offshore design, this is easy to like.

Part of the appeal comes from the material. The all-black ceramic livery suits the no-frills aesthetic of the original Offshore well.

At the same time, AP excels at finishing ceramic so the case and bracelet have the same lustrous surfaces as their metal counterparts. As a result, the watch has a tangible, tactile quality that is appealing. That said, ceramic is slightly glossier than metal, so the brushed surfaces don’t have the same matte finish as the metal equivalents.

The only downside is the price – CHF70,000 before taxes. That’s almost double the model in steel and only a little less than the version in rose gold. According to AP that’s due to the difficulty of finishing the ceramic bracelet, but the price is still difficult to rationalise.

Ceramic end to end

While AP does offer Royal Oak models with a ceramic bracelet – the perpetual calendar and 34 mm model come to mind – this is the first Offshore with a ceramic bracelet. As a result, the watch is almost entirely ceramic, right down to the crown and pushers. But the exposed nuts on the bezel are white gold, while the folding clasp and case back are titanium.

Though the ceramic bracelet is novel, the design is classic Offshore. It takes after the original Offshore of 1993, with almost the same styling. The overall design is the same, as is the 42 mm case diameter.

The dial retains the petite tapisserie dial of the original model, but the position of the hour and minute registers have been inverted. Now the seconds register is at six, while the hours are at 12, as they are on other current 42 mm Offshores.

That’s a consequence of the cal. 4404 inside, which replaced the modular movements with a Jaeger-LeCoultre base in the original. The cal. 4404 is a far more sophisticated calibre than its predecessor. Amongst other things it is an integrated construction with a flyback feature. And it also incorporates the typical features of a modern movement, namely a column wheel and vertical clutch.

Key facts and price

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm Black Ceramic
Ref.(26238CE.OO.1300CE.01)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 15.3 mm
Material: Black ceramic
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 4404
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and flyback chronograph
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Black ceramic bracelet with titanium folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At AP boutiques and AP Houses
Price: CHF70,000 without taxes

For more, visit Audemarspiguet.com.

Audemars Piguet (AP) just launched over a dozen new models, ranging from the Royal Oak “Jumbo” with a grained dial to the first Offshore Chronograph with a ceramic bracelet. But one stands out despite being the smallest watch amongst the new launches. Dressed in yellow gold and a striking stone dial, the Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm Turquoise Dial is a throwback back to an earlier era when the Royal Oak was offered with a range of mineral stone dials.

Initial thoughts

Though relatively common in the 1970s and 1980s when stone dials were a thing, the turquoise-yellow gold combination is unusual today. But it has a certain timelessness so the combination remains attractive. In fact, it even feels current, a testament to the longevity of the Royal Oak design (and the current fad for robin-egg blue dials).

The watch is intrinsically attractive in its design and palette. The design is simple – almost minimalist in Royal Oak terms – but the watch has presence due to its colours. It is vibrant and loud, very much the opposite of, say the new “Jumbo” in white gold, which is decidedly low key in comparison.

One element I wish was different is the seconds hand – I would have preferred a two-hand dial as on the vintage Royal Oak models with stone dials. That simplicity would further accentuate the dial material.

The case does feel slightly small for a modern men’s watch. It is an acceptable size, but the dimensions of the model means it feels slightly smaller than it is (unlike the “Jumbo” that feels larger than its 39 mm diameter). The size, combined with the stone dial, gives it a retro feel, making it feel almost like a remake of a 1990s Royal Oak.

Still, it is a handsome, compact watch that costs CHF51,000, which is a reasonable proposition by Royal Oak standards. Naturally, the waitlist for this will be long, but it is certainly a compelling buy.

As an aside, the choice of turquoise versus any other mineral stone is almost certainly catering to the popularity of the colour, driven in large part by Patek Philippe’s limited-edition Nautilus for Tiffany & Co. It appears to be a smart move to boost the appeal of the mid-sized Royal Oak, which presumably doesn’t have the same draw as its larger or smaller counterparts.

Bringing back semiprecious stone

Mineral stone dials were popular in the two decades from the 1960s and are often found on assorted ultra-thin AP dress watches from the period, though Royal Oaks with stone dials are less common. The new Royal Oak is reminiscent of its historical counterparts, which were almost all mid-sized models with similar dimensions.

A Royal Oak ref. 14701BC from 1993 with a bloodstone dial and 36 mm case. Image – Phillips

Interestingly, while vintage Royal Oaks can be found with a variety of stone dial, turquoise is novel for the model. According to AP, the turquoise used here is slightly darker than usual and is characterised by faint veining.

Originating in Mexico – the stone was prized in ancient Mesoamerican culture – the turquoise used for the dial is processed in the usual manner for such dials. It’s first sliced into a flat disc, then polished with several techniques, the last of which is lapping with a fine abrasive paste to give it a glossy surface. Then the turquoise disc is secured to a brass base with adhesive, giving it strength and durability.

Impressively, almost all the elements on the dial are applied and secured with feet, which requires tiny holes to be drilled into the stone – a delicate process that often leads to cracks.

As is standard for the Royal Oak, the applied hour markers, hands, as well as the AP logo are solid 18k gold. Besides the solid-gold elements, the dial has a printed minute scale and discreet date at three with the date disc in a matching blue hue. As a result, the dial is  clean, allowing the natural grain of the stone to take centerstage.

The case is 18k yellow gold, an unusual metal for the current Royal Oak line-up where rose gold dominates, but a perfect fit for the dial colour and retro style of the watch.

The case design incorporates the tweaks first seen on Royal Oak 50th Anniversary models that debuted last year, including wider bevels on the edges of the case, as well as a more pronounced taper of the bracelet. These changes give the watch a slightly more defined outline.

Inside the case is the cal. 5900, one of AP’s latest-generation in-house movements. First seen last year in the Royal Oak 37 mm ref. 15550, the cal. 5900 is a compact movement with the typical features of the brand’s newest in-house calibres, namely a useful 60-hour power reserve and a free-sprung balance secured by a full bridge.

Key facts and price

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm Turquoise Dial
Ref. 15550BA.OO.1356BA.01

Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 8.9 mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 5900
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: 18k gold bracelet with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At AP boutiques and AP Houses
Price: CHF51,000 before taxes

For more, visit Audemarspiguet.com.