For over a decade now, Montblanc has been attempting to become a serious watchmaker, an endeavour that started after its acquisition of Minerva. Despite having found only modest success there, the pen maker-turned-luxury-goods-house has produced a good number of proper haute horlogerie watches – mostly chronographs and some with surprisingly accessible prices – many of which have gone under appreciated due to the brand name.

A perfect example of the Minerva mechanical excellence and sharp pricing is Heritage Small Second Limited Edition 38 that was introduced in 2019. The Heritage Small Second is all about the movement, specifically a new-old-stock Minerva calibre from the early 2000s finished to an impressive, artisanal standard. Despite the exceptional movement, the watch never really gained much recognition (much like Montblanc’s other Minerva offerings), but it is certainly worth a revisit.

Initial thoughts

With its retro, two-tone dial in faddish “salmon”, the Heritage Small Second looks like one of the many vintage-inspired watches that has been (re)produced to excess by many brands in various price segments. But this stands out for the impressive degree of detail in the movement, which is finished to a degree comparable to that of artisanal independent watchmakers.

The hand-wound MB M62.00 inside is the star. According to Montblanc, it’s an “untouched” calibre from the attic made during a period when Minerva’s then-owners were dedicated to elevating the brand to the high horology hall of fame. The calibres were redesigned to maximise the potential for hand finishing.

Hand finishing is on all display with the MB M62.00, which even boasts polished teeth on the barrel ratchet and crown wheels. Though a new-old-stock movement in itself is nothing novel, a “NOS” calibre of this quality is an achievement in its own right.

Equally impressive for me is the dial. I appreciate its attention to detail, including the two-tone effect thanks to the frosted chapter ring that adds a touch of refinement. That said, the sub-seconds sits a little too high on the dial due to the relatively large, 39 mm case. At the same time, the “salmon” finish is a pretty but a bit overused right now due to its popularity.

A retro Montblanc logo takes pride of place under 12 o’clock (with the calibre name just below), while “Minerva” is relegated to a “secret signature” on the minute track. Inverting the two would have certainly given this wider recognition, but as it is now, the Heritage Small Second was largely something for those in the know, which is perhaps why only 38 pieces were made. With a retail price of about US$20,000, the Heritage Small Second was a value proposition considering the movement quality, so I hope Montblanc has a few more of these movements hidden away.

The Minerva connection

The Heritage Small Seconds is a tangible extension of the history Minerva, which was acquired by Richemont in 2006 and then folded into Montblanc. Founded in 1858 in the town of Villeret, Minerva built its reputation with high-quality stopwatches and chronographs.

But in the modern era, one of its best known models was the time-only Pythagore. In 1943, Andre Frey, the nephew of the second owner of the brand, designed the cal. 48, a hand-wind movement designed according to the golden ratio, supposedly first theorised by the Greek mathematician Pythagoras – the resulting watch was named the Pythagore.

The cal. 48, as it was then, was a solid but plain movement. But in the 1990s the movement was dressed up for a display back and the Pythagore soon became popular amongst watch enthusiasts.

An example of a 1990s Minerva Pythagore. Image – Phillips

And the cal. 48 in its original, undecorated form. Image – Phillips

The next chapter of the cal. 48 – and for Minerva as a whole – began in 2000 when the brand was taken over by Emilio Gnutti, an Italian business tycoon whose financial struggles meant his ownership was short-lived. A watch lover who also collected Ferraris and other exotic automobiles, Mr Gnutti transformed Minerva into a high horology house almost overnight by redesigning its stable of in-house movements and bestowing upon them exceptional finishing.

When Richemont landed Minerva six years later, it was buying a factory, a historical archive, and trove of beautiful calibres, many of which were already complete. The MB M62.00 inside the Heritage Small Seconds is essentially a Gnutti-era calibre.

Vintage style and mechanics

Unsurprisingly, the design of the Heritage Small Second references the Minerva Pythagore. Designed in a similar manner but with a contemporary feel, the Heritage Small Seconds attempt to capture the mid-century aesthetic of the vintage Pythagore, right down to n the old-school Montblanc logo that was original found on its pens of the 1920s and 1930s. 

While the design is somewhat generic in its retro style, the dial is finely executed and nicely detailed. Fashionably pink in hue, the dial is two-tone thanks to the granular finish on the chapter ring that has applied hour markers. The grained finish contrasts with the radial brushing that catches the light. 

An odd quirk of the dial are the red accents at six and 12 o’clock on the minute track. They are probably there to add colour to the dial, but they lack a logical purpose, making them unnecessary and distracting.

And hidden between and five o’clock is the “secret signature”, which is the first instance that the Minerva name is appearing on the dial of a Montblanc. If anything, the signature is too secret. Given the strength of the Minerva name as a watchmaker, “Minerva” would look perfectly at home alongside the Montblanc name.

The barely-there signature

Compared to Montblanc’s other Heritage models (that do not contain Minerva movements) that are 40 mm, the Heritage Small Seconds is scaled down slightly to 39 mm in diameter, while the height is 9.45 mm. While the size is still clearly modern, the dimensions are compact enough to evoke a vintage watch.

That said, the case is still quite a bit larger than the movement, which is why the seconds register sits a noticeable distance away from the edge of the dial. And on the back it is even more obvious, with the case back wide enough to accommodate two rows of engraving that leave it looking a bit cluttered.

The case is straightforward – rounded in form and entirely polished. It’s essentially identical to the other offerings in the Heritage collection, which isn’t as fancy as one expects on a watch of this price, however, this is entirely reasonable since it is obvious that majority of the effort went into the movement.

Simple as it is, the case does have boast pleasing detail in the form of a domed sapphire crystal that brings to mind the plastic crystals of vintage watches.

MB M62.00

At the heart of the Heritage Small Second is the MB M62.00, a hand-wound movement created in the early 2000s during the Gnutti ownership of the brand. Since it has largely focused on chronographs and tourbillon watches for its high-end offerings, Montblanc has used this time-only calibre only sparingly.

The movement was last found in the Villeret Seconde Authentique, a limited edition of just 58 pieces from 2013. While the Villeret featured a far more elaborate case and dial, it cost four times as much as the Heritage Small Second, illustrating the value proposition of the latter. 

The MB M62.00 

But the 58 Villeret watches still left some movements unused. According to Montblanc, 38 movements were retrieved from the archives for this Heritage limited edition. These movements were all completed prior to the Montblanc takeover, so they bear the “Minerva” and “Villeret” engravings on their bridges, giving them added pedigree.

The MB M62.00 is essentially a cal. 48 that’s been facelifted with new redesigned bridges and stellar decoration. Gone are the linear bridges of the cal. 48, which have been replaced by elegantly curved bridges.

Even details like the regulator index were refined: the plain pointer index of the cal. 48 was replaced with a swan’s neck regulator that incorporates the “devil’s tail”, a flourish taken from the levers of Minerva’s chronograph movements (and in turn inspired by the arrow-shaped Minerva logo of old). Another upgrade was the addition of a slender steel spring for the winding click – not imperative but certainly beautiful.

Like all Minerva movements used by Montblanc, the MB M62.00 utilises a screwed balance wheel with an in-house hairspring

To go along with the classically styled movement is top-class finishing. In fact, the quality of the decoration is comparable to that of high-end independent watchmakers. Being a new-old-stock movement, the calibre does reveal a handful of stray marks in less obvious places like the base plate. They do not detract from its appeal, and add to the vintage charm.

As with most of the Gnutti-era movements, emphasis was placed on decoration. This is clearly seen in the hand-polished bevels and striping on the bridges, as well as the lustrous sunray-brushing on the barrel and ratchet wheels with polished teeth. The same level of effort is visible in the steel parts, namely the black-polished regulator index along with the polished and chamfered screw heads. 

With its high level of finishing, the MB M62.00 elevates the Heritage Small Second to the realm of exceptional time-only watches in terms of quality, though not in price.

The black-polished regulator index

The bridges all sport prominent bevels

The winding wheels feature polished teeth, while the winding click spring has finely bevelled edges

Concluding thoughts

The Heritage Small Second is a carefully conceived timepiece that combines retro styling with a gorgeous movement. Despite the vintage-inspired styling, it is an obviously modern watch on the front, but the case back reveals its true nature and obvious quality. The watch is certainly a standout amongst its contemporaries, offering perhaps the best movement finishing in the price segment. 

Key Facts and Price

Montblanc Heritage Small Seconds Limited Edition 38
Ref. 124781

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 8.9 mm
Material: Steel
Water resistance: 50 m
Crystal: Sapphire

Movement: MB M62.00
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Winding: Hand wind
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Alligator strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: 38 pieces
Availability: Launched in 2019 and probably sold out
Price: US$18,900

For more, visit Montblanc.com.

The latest offering in Montblanc’s high-end chronograph lineup is the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph. In many ways it looks and feels like the Minerva chronographs that came before it. The case remains extra-large because of the pocket watch movement within and it still has a fluted bezel along with cathedral hands.

But the Unveiled Secret is totally different from its predecessors, as its movement has been inverted in order to bring the most interesting bits to the front. That required some mechanical rearrangement to accomplish, but manages to realise the desire often expressed by collectors who want to wear a watch with the finely finished movement showcased on the dial.

Initial thoughts

Hand-wind chronographs have been a specialty of Montblanc, at least for its high-end models, since it acquired Minerva several years ago. Minerva came along with its stable of historical chronograph movements, all traditionally constructed in an elegant, delicate manner, albeit in a slightly anachronistic manner since the calibres mostly dated to the early-20th century. As a result, Montblanc can count several impressive chronographs in its collection, but the Unveiled Secret does it differently.

Though the inversion trick has been done before by other hands, the Unveiled Secret is still a little more creative and a little more interesting. It relies on a simple trick: the hands are mounted on what is ordinarily the back of the movement, while the entire movement is flipped so that the hands are now on the front. Meanwhile what is usually the “dial side” of the movement is now hidden under a closed case back.

Importantly, it should be noted that the Unveiled Secret is an integrated chronograph, so it is a bona fide inverted movement. The calibre inside started out as the conventional MB 16.29, before being modified to flip the movement and invert the time display. That contrasts with modular chronographs that reveal their mechanics on the dial, such as the Hublot Big Bang Integral and Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante. The Unveiled Secret is certainly more impressive in its design and construction, making it more appealing than its modular equivalents.

With both the hands and chronograph mechanism now on the dial, the Unveiled Secret should be a showcase of all the mechanics that lie behind them, at least in theory. And there is a lot to admire, most notably with the slender chronograph levers under 12 o’clock and the large balance wheel located at seven o’clock.

That said, the chronograph mechanism isn’t that apparent as the sub-dial rings and wheel train for the hands get in the way. That’s pretty much unavoidable since the rings are needed to use the chronograph while the additional wheels were necessary to relocate the hands to the movement side.

At the same time, the rings for the time and registers are not executed as well as the movement. That difference in quality is faintly visible on the wrist, but not a deal breaker. The movement remains top notch, and there is enough to admire that the Unveiled Secret over-delivers in terms of a dial teeming with finely finished mechanics.

The Unveiled Secret is available in Lime Gold (left) and steel. The rings for the sub-dials are less obvious on the gold version, while the movement also has more contrast against the gold case and rings. Image – Montblanc

Priced at US$33,500 in steel and about 50% higher in gold, the Unveiled Secret is a pricey watch but still a value proposition all things considering. The movement is appealingly traditional and finished to a high level, making it amongst the best in its price range in that respect. Admittedly the movement has little by way of technical innovation since the original construction is decades old, but that doesn’t take away from its appeal and also the quality of decoration.

What is usually the dial side of the movement is now hidden behind a closed back bearing a relief of the Minerva factory in Villeret

The Minerva origins

Montblanc’s parent, Richemont, added Minerva to its portfolio of brands, which include Cartier, IWC, and Panerai, in 2006. The Swiss luxury group then decided to bestow the maker of chronographs upon Montblanc. That instantly gave the Hamburg-based pen maker a substantial degree of watchmaking knowhow, all of which was concentrated in the Minerva workshop in Villeret, a town that was also once the home of Blancpain.

Minerva was historically a maker of stopwatches and chronographs that were good quality and workmanlike, but far from being as elaborate as its movements are today. The transition from workmanlike to haute horlogerie occurred under the brand’s prior owner, an Italian businessman who liked watches.

The Minerva manufacture in Villeret

Montblanc now continues Minerva’s high-end watchmaking, though the Montblanc brand has yet to become synonymous with fine watchmaking. But that doesn’t take away from the watches themselves, which are varied and impressive. Montblanc has unveiled dozens of Minerva-powered models to date, all of which are finely finished and most of which are very large due to the pocket-watch origins of Minerva’s movements.

The complication most representative of fine watchmaking at Minerva, and by extension Montblanc, is the chronograph. And because of Minerva’s historical focus on the complication, the Montblanc chronograph collection is wide ranging in terms of size and specifics.

Over the last decade Montblanc rolled out a variety of Minerva movements, ranging from a split-second chronograph to a 1/100th-of-a-second chronograph with twin balance wheels, though it now mostly focuses on a smaller number of less exotic calibres.

But less exotic by Minerva standards is still a fine, high-end chronograph. Its simplest movements are both mono-pusher chronographs in two sizes, with the larger calibre having the button integrated into the crown (which is the base for the Unveiled Secret) and the smaller movement having it at two o’clock.

The smaller Minerva-powered Montblanc mono-pusher chronograph

The compact MB M13.21

Although Montblanc produces the Minerva chronograph movements from scratch today – they are not “new old stock movements” – the calibres are essentially vintage movements in terms of architecture. They have been refined and modified to optimise function and production, but they remain old fashioned calibres at heart, explaining the traditional layout.

In addition to the old-school looks, the Minerva movements are enhanced by fine finishing that ranks amongst the best. While different in style to most comparables, the decoration is arguably as good as that of industry benchmarks like A. Lange & Söhne.

Turning things around

As with past models, the Unveiled Secret is similarly powered by a historical movement, but one that’s been modified to accommodate the inversion. Specifically, the movement is the MB M16.26, which is the inverted version of the MB M16.29. Instead of hiding the beautifully finished components of the movement, it presents everything on the front.

The un-inverted version of the movement, the MB M16.29

Crucially, it’s worth mentioning again that that the movement in the Unveiled Secret is not the result of adding a module on the dial side of the movement. Amongst the telltale signs that it’s an integrated calibre is the large, slow-beat balance wheel visible on the dial. Instead, the MB M16.26 is an integrated chronograph movement has been arranged back to front, allowing the owner to wear the movement side as the dial.

Inverting the movement is novel in terms of aesthetics, but also brings with it a few technical challenges since the hands now have to be repositioned from one face to another.

But it is not merely a matter of installing hands on a cannon pinion that’s been extended on the movement side. In fact, it is physically impossible to extend the shafts that carry the hour and minute hands, since the chronograph seconds wheel gets in the way. For the same reason, the only hand that can be directly mounted on the inverse face is the central seconds hand for the chronograph (since its driving wheel is already there in the centre).

Consequently, several auxiliary wheels are needed to relocate the hours and minutes away from the what is conventionally the dial side. This moves them both vertically as well as laterally, tracing a path that bypasses the centre of the movement. All that explains the half dozen or so gilded gears visible below the open-worked rings on the front, which are part of the redesigned motion works and therefore not seen on conventional, un-inverted chronograph movements.

The chronograph seconds hand is directly mounted on what is usually the back, which is now the front on the Unveiled Secret

But that’s not all. Simply relocated the hands to the movement side will result in them going counter-clockwise, because the second and fourth wheels rotate counter-clockwise when seen from the movement side. In a conventional movement, that means the minute and hour hands move in the opposite – and clockwise – direction when seen from the front.

Although Montblanc didn’t provide specifics of the setup, the solution becomes evident upon closer inspection – the entire going train is made to run in the opposite direction compared to convention, as evidenced by the escape wheel that is mounted in the opposite direction. This ensures the hands all rotate in the correct direction – the seconds hand for instance, is driven by the extended pivot of the fourth wheel, which now runs clockwise when viewed from the dial side.

A mono-pusher with a twist

Since the movement now runs backwards, the barrel also has to be wound in the opposite direction. This requires an intermediate wheel between the ratchet wheel and crown wheel of the winding train to reverse the direction of wind. As a result, turning the crown as usual still winds the mainspring, even though the mainspring itself is being wound in the opposite direction from convention.

Meanwhile, the keyless works that facilitate winding and time setting are essentially similar to that in the standard movement, with one key difference: a slipping clutch replaces the conventional cannon pinion, allowing the minute and hour hands to be adjusted through the auxiliary gear train.

At the same time, the keyless works are now hidden behind the solid case back since they would ordinarily be under the dial in a normal watch. This distinguishes the Unveiled Secret from a regular open-worked movement, which typically reveals the time-setting mechanism at the three o’clock position.

Movement finishing

Because the movement is inverted, its details can be enjoyed while the Unveiled Secret is on the wrist. That is the point of the whole exercise, simply because the MB M16.26 is an attractive movement. Its allure stems from three features: rich colours, traditional construction, and excellent finishing.

To start with, the movement made up of bridges in German silver, steel levers, as well as gilded brass wheels. They complement and contrast with each other, providing a vivid canvas even without finer decoration. It’s a good enough combination that Lange and Voutilainen rely on the same materials in their movements.

The next element that makes the movement what it is are the chronograph levers and bridges, all of which are classical in form. The steel chronograph levers, for instance, are narrow but tall, giving the movement depth and lending it a high-end appearance. And the levers also incorporate flourishes, most obvious in the form of the arrowhead at the end of one. Nicknamed “devil’s tail”, this is found in all Minerva movements and is a nod to the brand’s historical arrowhead emblem. All that contrast with more affordable chronographs like the Speedmaster Professional powered by the Lemania derived cal. 3861, which has flat and wide levers that are simpler in form.

And the movement’s final point of appeal is its finishing, which good enough to equal or even surpass establishment, haute horlogerie brands.

The bridges and levers sport wide bevelling that’s rounded and mirror polished, while also incorporating inward and outward angles executed with sharp definition. The countersinks are similarly finely finished – they are wide and bowl-shaped with polished surfaces.

Other attractive elements include the swan’s neck regulator that’s entirely black polished on its top and bevelled on its edges. The swan’s neck regulator itself is a retro detail that reveals the age of the movement, since most high-end modern movements are instead equipped with a free-sprung balance.

The swan’s neck regulator on the balance cock between five and seven o’clock

The wheel that drives the running seconds exemplifies the impressive finishing of the movement – it sports several planes of polished and brushed surfaces around its centre

The traditional aesthetic puts this calibre in the same class as other traditionally constructed chronographs such as the Datograph, although the MB M16.26 falls behind in terms of modern amenities and technical innovation due to its age.

It looks like a classical chronograph movement from the early to mid-20th century because it actually is. The MB M16.26 and its related movements originate with the 17”’ movement that Minerva developed in the first two decades of the last century, so in some ways the Unveiled Secret and other Minerva chronographs are reissues of the vintage originals.

The reverse of the movement is hidden but will no doubt be as well finished as the front

Case and dial

The movement sets a high bar in terms of quality, which unfortunately means the case and dial of the Unveiled Secret are less impressive by comparison. They are passable, but lack the thoughtful, high-quality fit and finish of the movement. Admittedly, that is not entirely a fair criticism given the price of the Unveiled Secret, but the disparity between them is apparent.

The case is straightforward in its construction. It has tall, vertical flanks, leaving the case looking plain and chunky, a look that only works with affordable, robust sports watches such as the Tudor Black Bay. In fact, the movement is already thick and the case makes no effort to disguise that, which means the Unveiled Secret looks as thick as it actually is, which is a bit over 14 mm.

The details of the case are likewise plainly executed. The flutes of the bezel, for instance, lack the sharp definition found on bezels by Rolex or Parmigiani. That said, the polished bevel along the top edge of each lug gives the case a bit of refinement.

The Unveiled Secret has no dial to speak out, save for the rings that carry the hour markers and chronograph registers. Despite their width and the fact that they are silver, the rings are prominent thanks to their blue markings. The blue markings are a bit much and take too much attention away from the movement. In contrast, the gold version of the Unveiled Secret has a more subtle dial.

In fact, the rings are surprisingly obvious, making them a focal point of the dial. That isn’t exactly a good thing because the fit and finish of the rings are merely adequate. The rings are clearly stamped, resulting in the soft edges that contrast with the sharp finishing on the movement parts.

While the rings may be a seemingly unimportant detail given the Unveiled Secret is all about the movement, the dial does matter. It is apparent enough that the disparity between the rings and movement is noticeable. The specifics of the dial finish are not visible except under magnification, but the even at arm’s length it is clearly finished different from the movement.

The blue hour markers appear to be resin appliqués that don’t look too good up close

Conclusion

Like its compatriots with Minerva-based movements, the Unveiled Secret is an attractive watch because of the wonderfully executed movement. But it is more interesting than past models because the movement is inverted, allowing the watch to be worn back-to-front, which puts on show the excellent, excellent finish. The appeal does come with has a few caveats, namely the middling execution of the dial and case.

More broadly, the Unveiled Secret demonstrates that Montblanc is not merely reusing the same movements every year with different cases and dials. The movement in the Unveiled Secret is a meaningful reworking of the original calibre that hopefully indicates the shape of things to come.

It might be a stretch, but perhaps Montblanc will eventually embark on something more ambitious, such as an all-new movement to replace the decades-old Minerva calibres that were first conceived for pocket watches. Until then the Unveiled Secret will do as the most novel Minerva-powered Montblanc in the catalogue.

Key facts and price

Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph
Ref. 129622 (Lime Gold)
Ref. 129613 (steel)

Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 14.18 mm
Material: 18k Lime Gold or steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: MB M16.26
Functions: Hours, minute, seconds, and chronograph
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Hand wind
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 18 pieces in Lime Gold and 58 pieces in steel
Availability: From Montblanc boutiques and retailers
Price: 
Lime Gold – US$48,000, or 69,000 Singapore dollars
Steel – US$33,500, or 48,500 Singapore dollars

For more, visit montblanc.com.

Amendment June 23, 2022: Updated explanation of the inverted movement.

One of the most interesting new releases from Montblanc at Watches & Wonders 2021 is the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon, a technically impressive movement fused with a sparkly aventurine-glass dial. It’s equipped with a larger-than-usual balance wheel positioned above the dial, seemingly suspended but actually part of the tourbillon regulator.

Initial thoughts

Introduced at SIHH 2018, the Suspended Exo Tourbillon movement was most recently seen in an open-worked variant unveiled last year. Despite not being new in terms of mechanics, the new Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon is different enough from its predecessors – and still powered by the same fine movement.

Very much living up to the Star Legacy model name, the aventurine-glass is restrained and modern, especially when combined with the white gold case, giving it a different look from the earlier models that were in rose gold.

Typical of Montblanc’s higher-end watches made at the former Minerva manufacture in Villeret – as opposed to its more affordable timepieces, manufactured at the main facility in Le Locle – the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon is remarkably well-finished. Worlds apart from Montblanc’s entry-level tourbillon in terms of movement decoration, the movement is also more traditionally finished than comparably priced alternatives such as the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon.

However, because the movement was derived from the pocket watch calibres developed by Minerva in the 20th century, it results in a rather large, 44.8 mm watch, which undermines the otherwise elegant nature of the design.

Priced at €109,000, the new Suspended Exo Tourbillon is actually slightly cheaper than the previous pink iteration, despite the industry norm of pricing white gold models higher. Although it’s pricey compared to Montblanc’s more ordinary offerings, the Suspended Exo Tourbillon is arguably good value considering the quality.

Suspended action

According to Montblanc, the dial of the Suspended Exo Tourbillon is comprised of eight different components, each of which has been hand-finished with techniques of traditional watchmaking.

Firstly, the 18k white gold dial base is covered in aventurine glass – which contains metallic inclusions that create its distinctive sparkle –  and then set with chapter rings and a bridge of white gold which are finished with circular graining and polished, bevelled edges. Also made of white gold, the sub-dial for the time at 12 o’clock is positioned right above the tourbillon, creating symmetry that’s pleasing to the eye.

In other words, it’s an extremely detailed dial with tons of depth that features most of watchmaking’s most beloved techniques.

However, the main attraction is still the suspended, extra-large 14.5 mm balance wheel – held in place by a single steel cock, instead of a more conventional bridge – that sits just above the one-minute tourbillon regulator.

Being an “Exo” tourbillon, the tourbillon cage sits below the balance wheel – more like a platform than a carriage – allowing it to be minimal in size, which increases the efficiency of the movement since less energy is required to rotate it. And the smaller-than-usual tourbillon cage also means the size of the balance can be maximised, raising its inertia and thus timekeeping stability.

The watch is powered by the cal. MB M16.68, a large, hand-wound movement that’s derived from the 16-ligne Minerva chronograph movement originally developed for pocket stop watches.

In true Minerva style, the MB M16.68 is decorated with artisanal finishing – Côtes de Genève on the German silver bridges that also have polished, bevelled edges, lustrous spiralling on the barrel ratchet wheel, as well as two jewels in chatons. And as is standard practice for Minerva movements, its arrowhead logo has been incorporated into the calibre, here in the steel winding click.

Key Facts and Price

Montblanc Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Limited Edition
Ref. 127767

Diameter: 44.8 mm
Thickness: 15.03 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: MB M16.68
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, tourbillon
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 18,800 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Alligator with 18k white gold folding clasp

Limited edition: 18 pieces
Availability: On request, only at boutiques
Price: €109,000

For more, visit Montblanc.com.

A watchmaker that was once a prominent maker of chronographs, Minerva is the star in Montblanc’s mountain. Since the pen-turned-watchmaker took over Minerva, it has launched several chronographs powered by Minerva calibres.

The flagship chronograph is arguably the mono-pusher split-second first launched in bronze two years ago. Montblanc has since rolled out several additional iterations, but in affordable alloys like titanium. Now the brand has finally unveiled the first precious-metal version, the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 in “Lime Gold”.

Initial thoughts

Two qualities often distinguish the great from the good in chronographs – a balanced, attractive dial combined with an intricate, good-looking movement – and all the better if the watch is priced well. The 1858 Split Second Chronograph is, by the two measures, a high performer.

Let’s begin with the aesthetics. While splendid looking movements with high technical content are rare, it’s even less common combined with good design on the front. That is why I appreciate the 1858 chronograph – the dial is well done, with the positions of the counters just right, giving it a rare finesse. And even though the dial is busy, the many elements are harmoniously arranged. Admittedly, the design is not new, it’s essentially a replica of early 20th century dials, but Montblanc reproduced it just right.

The counters at the sweet spot, not too far from the edge of the dial

The movement is similarly well done, perhaps even better in fact. It is a traditional hand-wind, lateral-clutch chronograph, meaning the interesting interactions between the levers and gears are fully revealed. More impressively, it incorporates a traditional split-seconds mechanism, which adds even more dimensionality to the view. And just like the other Minerva movements used by Montblanc, the finishing is old school and impressive.

One downside of the watch is its size, 44 mm wide and also 15.2 mm thick. It isn’t a delicate, elegant watch, unlike many high-end split-seconds chronographs, but it excels at being what it is, a sporty watch with classic looks and a brilliant movement, making it a good choice for people who want a fine movement and substantial wrist presence.

Finally, the new 1858 chronograph is reasonably priced. At €49,500, it is at the affordable end of the spectrum as such things go. It does cost over 50% more than the bronze or titanium versions, but it is gold, which is fair enough.

Tradition revived

The case is an 18k alloy Montblanc terms “Lime Gold”, which is more commonly known as green gold. A well known form of gold that is uncommon in watchmaking, green gold includes silver to give it a pale greenish tinge.

While the case metal is novel, most of the watch – namely the dial and movement – is modelled on Minerva watches of the 1930s. In fact, the cal. MB M16.31 is a modernised version of a pocket-watch movement, explaining its large diameter of 38.4 mm – making the movement alone bigger than many other chronograph wristwatches – as well as the evidently classical construction.

The movement’s appeal lies in its finishing. Most notable is the wide, hand-executed bevelling on the steel chronograph levers, which even include a few sharp, inward angles, exemplified by “devil’s tail”, a flourish that’s a nod to the Minerva arrowhead logo. Less obvious, but equally attractive are the polished teeth of the barrel ratchet wheel, a detail that is often overlooked, even in fine movements.

Key facts and price

Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18
Ref. 128085

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 15.2 mm
Material: 18k Lime Gold
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: MB M16.31
Functions: Hours and minutes; split-seconds chronograph
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Hand wind
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 18 pieces
Availability: From Montblanc boutiques and retailers
Price: €49,500 (including tax)

For more, visit montblanc.com.

Just last year Montblanc introduced the 1858 Split Second Chronograph powered by a gorgeous, mono-pusher Minerva movement. Debuted in a bronze case, the watch was a hit, and for good reason, it combined attractive, well-chosen vintage details and an well-finished movement, all for a very fair price.

Having unveiled several other limited-edition versions of the watch since, Montblanc is continuing with the theme with the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 8, an exclusive for Singapore-based retailer Sincere Fine Watches that has a smoked, dark red dial and a titanium case.

The 1858 Split Second Chronograph for Sincere

Initial thoughts

After the launch edition, Montblanc debuted an eight-piece limited edition in November 2019 made for Mexican watch fair Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR) that had a striking jade dial, which was followed by a hundred-piece limited edition with a stunning gradient-blue grand feu enamel dial in April of this year. And in between, it managed to put together a one-off example with an agate dial for charity auction Only Watch 2019.

That makes the new Sincere edition the fifth iteration of the 1858 split seconds in less than 24 months. But fortunately it does not feel overdone – yet – given the small production runs for each version, as well as the interesting variety of dial materials.

The first version of the 1858 split seconds in bronze

The most obvious point of appeal of the watch is movement, which is derived from a 1930s Minerva movement conceived for pocket watches, explaining the large size and old-school construction.

But the model’s appeal also lies in its plentiful vintage details inspired by 1930s aviator’s chronographs. That holds true in the new version, but you have to like red.

Here the design has been made more striking with a deep, wine-red dial lacquered finish that fades to black on the periphery, a lustrous colour achieved by applying 15 layers of translucent lacquer over the red base coat, followed by a polish to create a smooth, flat, and graduated finish.

Vintage cues on the dial include cathedral hands and spiral tachymeter scale

The specs remain identical to those of the previous versions: a 44 mm case with a mono-pusher, rattrapante chronograph. And therefore it is a big and thick watch like the original. It’s wearable, but slightly chunky, though the titanium case helps trim the weight.

The retail price of 51,000 Singapore dollars (or about US$38,000) is roughly the same as that of the original in bronze, which is a fair ask, given the excellent movement finishing and complication. In fact, the 1858 Split Second Chronograph is arguably a bargain as far as traditionally-constructed split-seconds chronographs go.

The pusher co-axial with the crown starts, stops, and resets the chronograph, whereas the crown at two o’clock engages the rattrapante mechanism

Vintage-inspired inside and out

The dial is multi-scale, and modelled on chronographs of the early 20th century. It has a telemeter as the outermost track and a snail-shaped tachymeter in its center. Cathedral hands and a resurrected vintage Montblanc logo round out the retro aesthetics.

Though the dial is busy, legibility is ensured by the Super-LumiNova on the hands and hour numerals, along with stark white print for all the scales.

The 44 mm case is in titanium

The case is 44 mm in diameter and 15.2 mm in thickness, with predominantly brushed surfaces matched with a polished bezel and prominent polished bevels on the lugs.

Though 44 mm seems oversized for a vintage-inspired chronograph, the size is necessitated by the movement. The hand-finished MB M16.31 is derived from a pocket watch movement, with a split-seconds mechanism added on top.

Befitting a pocket watch calibre, the balance beats at an old-fashioned 2.5 Hz; it’s is attached to an in-house, overcoil hairspring adjusted with a swan’s neck regulator index. And the finishing of the movement is similarly classical – the chronograph levers are brushed on their tops and have hand-executed bevels on their edges. Multiple components, including both column wheels, are black polished, and the movement rewards owners with several sharp interior angles on the bevelled edges of components.

The MB M16.31 as seen in the bronze version of the watch

The split-seconds mechanism at top centre

Key facts and price

Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 8
Ref. 128131

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 15.2 mm
Material: Titanium
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: MB M16.31
Functions: Hours and minutes; split-seconds chronograph
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Hand wind
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: Eight pieces
Availability: Only at Sincere Fine Watches
Price: 51,000 Singapore dollars (equivalent to US$38,000)

For more information, visit Sincere.com.sg.

A fountain-pen maker for most of its history, Montblanc ventured into watchmaking and found success with its entry-level watches produced in its Le Locle factory. But the brand’s high horology watches are made at the former Minerva manufacture in Villeret – Montblanc acquired the brand in 2007 – which produces only a few hundred timepieces each year.

The latest model to emerge from Villeret is the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton, which boasts a skeleton movement that’s been hand-finished the traditional way. Though there is little movement left after the open working, there’s much left to decorate. According to Montblanc, the bridges include 420 inwards angles on their bevelled edges.

Initial thoughts

Measuring 44.8 mm by 15.01 mm, the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillion Skeleton is a surprisingly massive watch – a characteristic of many Montblanc watches powered by Minerva-derived movements. That’s because most of the calibres are descended from Minerva movements of the early 20th century that were originally built for pocket watches. The advantage is an appealing, old-school layout and aesthetic, but accompanied by the downside of extremely large size, making it impractical as an everyday watch.

Priced at about US$160,000, the Exo Tourbillon Skeleton is priced similarly to comparable watches. In fact, it arguably has a finer movement finish than the competition, going by the average standard of movement decoration at Villeret. But at the same time, it is extremely expensive for Montblanc, which largely concentrates on affordable watches.

So the primary weakness of the new Exo Tourbillon has nothing to do with the watch itself, instead it is has to do with the rest of Montblanc’s line up. The catalogue also includes the base-model Exo Tourbillon watches that have a similarly constructed tourbillon, albeit with less movement decoration. These cost much, much less – the entry-level Exo Tourbillon costs only a quarter of the new model. Even though the watches are different, they are similar enough that the price disparity is hard to stomach.

The MB M18.69 from the back

Elevating the cage

As the name suggests, the Exo Tourbillon is not an ordinary tourbillon. Put simply, it was devised to be a better tourbillon.

Installing the tourbillon regulator in wristwatch is arguably counter-intuitive from a technical perspective. Being on the wrist, the balance wheel is not in the vertical positioned for a prolonged period of time, hence the rotational correction to average out gravitational errors is not relevant.

With the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical, F.P. Journe solved the first problem by positioning the balance such that it is almost always vertical, but that is essentially giving pocket watch characteristics to a wristwatch movement, a roundabout solution to a problem that isn’t pressing.

The other shortcoming of the tourbillon are related to the cage: moving the tourbillon cage consumes energy, and the cage itself takes up space that could instead be used for a larger-diameter balance.

Montblanc, however, attends to the second problem by freeing the balance from the cage. By elevating the balance above and outside of the tourbillon cage, the balance wheel can now be bigger, which increases inertia and improves timekeeping stability. Also, now that the cage is smaller and freed from the weight of the balance, rotating it requires less energy. The result is a tourbillon that is more visually interesting than the average, a quality that is enhanced by the open-worked MB M18.69, allowing one to admire the tourbillon from many angles.

Interesting details

Aesthetics wise, the watch has balanced and symmetrical layout. The front, for instance, has the sub-dial and tourbillon forming a figure of eight, coincidentally the limited edition size – and no doubt to appeal to Chinese clients. The bridge architecture is thoughtful, formed by fluid shapes accented by the many sharp, inward angles on the bevels.

While the layout is similar to many open-worked tourbillions – there are only so many ways of constructing a tourbillon movement – Montblanc has cleverly suspended the whole movement within the case to create a truly airy aesthetics. The bridges connected to a large ring piece that is attached to the inside of the case.

In order to maintain legibility, the sub-dial for the hours is white grand feu enamel, adding an artisanal touch to the watch

As is typical for movements made by the former Minerva factory, the finishing is done to a high level. The bridges are brushed on top with edges bevelled by hand – a significant effort considering the number of inner angles on the edges. Another distinctive feature is the “devil’s tail” winding click for the barrel ratchet wheel, which is modelled on the spear-shaped Minerva logo.

Key Facts and Price

Montblanc Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Limited Edition
Ref. 126096

Diameter: 44.8 mm
Thickness: 15.01 mm
Material: 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: MB M18.69
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, tourbillon
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 18,800 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Alligator with 18k rose gold folding clasp

Limited edition: 8 pieces
Availability: On request, only at boutiques
Price: €138,000

For more, visit Montblanc.com.

Now five years old, Montblanc’s 1858 collection has proven to be both on the nose and on the money – and the line-up now includes an unusual single-handed, 24-hour wristwatch that doubles as a solar compass.

From the entry-level automatic to the top-of-the-line split-seconds chronograph, the 1858 watches offer respectable value in their respective price categories, while possessing a pleasing balance of retro details reliant on clever use of tone, font, and finish. At Watches & Wonders 2020, Montblanc continued the theme, but with a twist, when it introduced the 1858 Automatic 24H.

Initial thoughts

Mechanically simple but functionally and visually unusual, the Automatic 24H doesn’t cost very much more than the base-model, three-hand automatic. Admittedly it only tells the time approximately, but the look and feel is reminiscent of an oversized vintage instrument, rather than just a vintage-inspired wristwatch.

In order words, it is probably the most interesting entry-level watch from Montblanc. In fact, it’s a compelling proposition in the broader sub-US$5,000 category, being more interesting than the usual fare in this price segment.

24 hours and uncommon

While not new, watches with a 24-hour time display where hour hand makes one revolution a day are uncommon, especially outside of specialised timers for professionals who operate on a 24-hour time such as pilots and astronauts. As a result, 24-hour watches are often no-nonsense instruments.

Such watches typically have three hands – for hours, minutes, and seconds – offering both an unambiguous representation of the hour as well as to-the-second precision. Amongst the best known of such watches is the Breitling Cosmonaute, which was worn by Mercury Seven astronaut Scott Carpenter when he orbited the Earth in 1962.

A Breitling Cosmonaute ref. 809 from the 1960s

Single-hands on 24-hour dials are even rarer, simply because they are less practical. Such one-handed watches are philosophical reflections on time, a reminder that time is passing; Audemars Piguet’s single-hand watch is appropriately named Philosophique. Needless to say, such philosophical instruments appeal only to a tiny number of people.

Beyond catering to a niche audience, the paucity of such watches also has to do with mechanics. Creating a single-handed, 24-hour display is not merely removing the minute hand. Most movements have an hour hand driven by an hour wheel that makes one revolution every 12 hours. Converting a movement to show time on a 24-hour scale involves small but important changes to the gearing.

As a result, while several brands have offered single-hand, 24-hour watches at one point or another, very few have done so for a substantial period of time. The extra work to modify the movement isn’t economical given the lukewarm sales.

A proper single-hander

Like the basic 1858 Automatic, the Automatic 24H has a two-tone case made up of a steel case middle with the crown and bezel in bronze.

Slightly larger than the base model automatic, the Automatic 24H measures 42 mm across and stands 11.2 mm high, giving it good proportions for a sports watch – large enough but not too chunky. The relative slimness of the case is attributable to the lack of a seconds and minute hand.

The case has a brushed top surface as well as flanks, divided by a polished lengthwise bevel. It is topped by a domed crystal so as to resemble Plexiglas on vintage watches. While domed crystals are common in retro-style watches, here it works especially well in creating the feel of a vintage instrument, rather than just an old-fashioned wristwatch.

Brushed steel case with a wide polished bevel

A key element in the wrist-instrument look is the dial. Expansive but wonderfully detailed, the dial features a map of the Northern Hemisphere, basically what you would see looking at the Earth from the North Pole, as well as the 24 meridians (or lines of longitude) – all printed in black Super-Luminova. The map and lines appear dark grey during the day, and faintly glow a dull green at night.

Lines of latitude and longitude printed in black Super-Luminova

Time is indicated on an extra-large 24-hour scale via a lone hour hand coated in red Super-Luminova. Importantly for a single-hand display, the size, length, and tip of the hour hand are correct. The hand is long enough, with a sufficient sharp point, such that reading the time is easy – at least approximately.

Though the hour scale is graduated in 15-minute sections, the time can still be read to the midpoint of each graduation, or about 7.5 minutes.

True north

In addition, the watch can serves as a makeshift compass with a copper-coloured scale on the periphery with the cardinal points in red that’s graduated in five-degree segments.

To use the dial as a compass, simply set the watch to the correct time, then hold the watch parallel to the ground and rotate it on the same plane until the hour hand points to the Sun. The cardinal points on the dial will then be correctly aligned and form a compass indication.

The above holds only in the Northern Hemisphere; in the Southern hemisphere, the cardinal points are inverted as the Sun appears to travel in the opposite direction. As a result, true North in the Southern Hemisphere would be “S” on the dial, East would be “W”, and so on. Also, the watch-as-compass method to determine direction is more accurate at higher latitudes as it gets more difficult to discern the movement of the Sun nearer the equator.

Large Arabic numbers with cream-coloured Super-Luminova

The compass dial is an interesting but useless gimmick. Technically, any watch with an analogue display can be used as a compass, but it is simply more convenient and legible with a single hand and 24-hour dial, especially one marked with cardinal points.

Robust mechanics

The Automatic 24H is powered by the MB 24.20, which based on the Sellita SW300, in turn a clone of the ETA 2892. The appeal of the movement is straightforward – reliability and cost-efficiency.

Though the movement is commonplace, the modification is proprietary. The calibre has been modified by Montblanc for the Automatic 24H, as the Sellita catalogue does not have an SW300 with a 24-hour display.

Concluding thoughts

The 1858 Automatic 24H is smartly executed and creative approach to a unique yet simple and affordable watch. It’s a world away from the base-model 1858 in looks and function, but only marginally more expensive.

With 24-hour watches being rare, the Automatic 24H only has one real competition in the same price bracket, the Longines Twenty-Four Hours, which has three hands and costs a tad more. But like most 24-hour watches, the Longines is staid and monochromatic, being a remake of a 1950s watch produced for the pilots of Swissair.

The Automatic 24H, on the other hand, is more adventurous and unusual. Part of its appeal lies in the widely-held nostalgia for vintage instruments, but the details and colours are put together in a refreshing and appealing way.

Key facts and price

Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H
Ref. 126007

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.2 mm
Material: Steel case with bronze bezel and crown
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: MB 24.20
Functions: Hours and minutes; compass indications
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Fabric NATO-style strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Montblanc boutiques and online store, as well as authorised retailers
Price: US$3,030; or 4,470 Singapore dollars

For more information, visit Montblanc.com.

Just last year Montblanc unveiled the 1858 Split Second Chronograph, a Minerva-powered watch that was warmly received for being well-finished and complex, yet reasonably-priced. A retro-inspired, rattrapante mono-pusher chronograph, the watch cost US$30,000 – a solid deal as such things go. A few months after, Montblanc debuted the one-off Only Watch edition with titanium case and blue-agate dial that sold for a whopping 100,000 Swiss francs, with proceeds going to charity.

The brand has now stepped things up a notch with the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 100 that channels the spirit of the Only Watch edition, featuring the same titanium case and paired with a fired enamel dial in graduated blue. Despite the similar styling, the new watch costs a lot less than the record-setting Only Watch Edition – but isn’t quite as good value as last year’s model.

Smoky blue

And that’s because while the bronze model had an ordinary dial of brass, this has been upgraded with a grand feu enamel dial, leading to a jump in the retail price of about US$7,000, which is about the typical premium for such a dial.

The enamel dial starts off as a solid-gold disc, which is painted with a mixture of enamel powder, water and oil. It is then fired in an oven at over 800℃, melting the enamel powder and fusing it to the gold base. The process of adding enamel powder and firing is repeated multiple times so as to achieve the desired depth of colour.

But unusually, the dial is a smoked blue that darkens towards the edges, a delicate graduated finish is achieved by carefully varying the thickness of the enamel; a thicker layer of enamel results in a darker shade. Once complete, the dial is finished with a layer of translucent enamel, and the markings on the dial are then printed on top.

Appreciably, the dial dispenses with the faux-aged “lume” found on the original bronze model, removing the vintage affectation found on most 1858 models. The cathedral hands and numerals are instead filled with clean, white Super-Luminova.

The design of the dial is otherwise identical to the original version. Inspired by 1930s aviator’s chronographs made by Minerva, it features a telemeter on the outermost track and a snail-shaped tachymeter in the centre.

Old-school mechanics

The case is 44 mm wide and 14.55 mm high but being titanium is fairly lightweight despite the dimensions. It’s finished identically to last year’s bronze version, with matte brushing for the case flanks and top of the lugs that’s separated by a wide, polished bevel.

Visible through the sapphire case back is the hand-wound and hand-finished MB M16.31. It is essentially the MB M16.29 that’s derived from a 1930s pocket watch movement, but with the addition of a split-seconds mechanism. With the vintage origins, the movement is replete with vintage details. The large balance wheel beats at a low frequency of 2.5 Hz and is attached to an in-house, overcoil hairspring adjusted with a swan’s neck regulator.

With its bridges in rhodium-plated German silver, the movement is exquisitely decorated with Geneva stripes on the bridges, perlage on the base plate, as well as prominent polished bevels on the edges of the chronograph levers.

Key facts and price

Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 100
Ref. 126006

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 14.55 mm
Material: Titanium
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: MB M16.31
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; split-seconds chronograph
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5  Hz)
Winding: Hand-wound
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Alligator with titanium pin buckle

Limited edition: 100 pieces
Availability: In boutiques from April onwards
Price: €39,500

For more information, visit Montblanc.com.

Montblanc’s recent line of vintage-inspired models, including last year’s perpetual calendar, now includes the Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph, an attractively retro mono-pusher chronograph that’s well-priced – considering the Minerva movement within.

First launched in steel with a salmon dial, the chronograph gets a richer colour palette this year with a pink-gold case matched with a tobacco dial for a warm look no doubt inspired by aged watch dials that have faded from black to brown. Despite all the vintage detailing and “tropical” colours, the watch still doesn’t feel overly retro.

The case is well suited to the vintage styling, measuring 40 mm wide thanks to the compact MB M13.21 movement. The calibre is nearly 10 mm smaller than the MB M16.29 movement built for pocket watches that Montblanc has relied on more frequently and results in much larger watches.

The case is entirely polished, which contrasts against the matte dial executed in several finishes: a dark, matte surface on the periphery, followed by the grained chapter ring with applied pink gold markers, and finally the central portion in a sun ray-brushed finish.

In keeping with the vintage look, the dial itself is slightly domed, a subtle detail that is evident in the sloping edges of the recessed counters. The retro style is further enhanced by a domed, “box-type” sapphire crystal.

The arrowhead movement

But as is always the case with Minerva-powered Montblanc watches, the highlight is inside. Visible through the sapphire case back, the M13.21 is essentially a vintage chronograph movement produced from scratch in the modern day, explaining its traditional architecture.

The balance operates at a slow 18,000 beats per hour and is attached to an in-house hairspring adjusted with a swan neck regulator. And the bridges and base plate are made of German silver plated in red gold to match the case. Equally old fashioned is the decoration, which is done by hand to a high standard.

Key facts and price

Montblanc Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph
Ref. 126095

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 12.65 mm
Material: Pink gold
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: MB M13.21
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5  Hz)
Winding: Hand-wound
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Brown alligator with gold pin buckle

Limited edition: 100 pieces
Availability: In boutiques and retailers from June onwards
Price: €36,000

For more information, visit Montblanc.com.

During a chat with Montblanc watch division chief Davide Cerrato this weekend in Geneva – where the split-seconds chronograph he created for Only Watch sold for a 100,000 Swiss francs – he revealed the company had recently discovered a small number of finished Minerva MB M62.00 movements from the early 2000s.

Already decorated and assembled, the hand-wound movements were then paired with a specially designed dial to create a discreet limited edition.

The calibres were produced in 2003, during the brief period from 2000-2006 when Minerva was owned by Italian former billionaire Emilio Gnutti who was later convicted of insider trading.

Mr Gnutti radically remade Minerva after he took over, elevating it from a producer of competent and honest watches into one focused on ultra high-end timepieces with exceptional movement finishing. But his endeavour was not financially viable and he sold Minerva to Richemont, which integrated the brand into Montblanc.

The Minerva-Minerva movement

The MB M62.00 in the new Heritage Small Second come from this period, so they have impeccable finishing.

But unlike Minerva movements produced after the Montblanc takeover, these movements were wholly finished prior to the Richemont takeover so they are only marked “Minerva” and “Villeret”.

Though the MB M62.00 are identical, both in style and finishing, to later movements marked “Montblanc”, aficionados will appreciate the nostalgic Minerva logo.

The MB M62.00 movement is derived from Minerva’s signature Pythagore calibre designed in the 1940s, a robust movement that was originally workmanlike in appearance. It was completely remade to create the MB M62.00.

All of the bridges were redesigned to have flowing lines and curves to accentuate the edge finishing. Tiny details were attended to as well: the winding click was given a long, elegant spring, and the balance wheel was upgraded to a screwed balance with an in-house hairspring. Even the swan’s neck regulator was revamped to include a small “devil’s tail” arrow that echoes the Minerva logo.

Good old fashioned looks

The movements, 38 of them in total, have been installed in a time-only watch with a two-tone “salmon” dial. It is a discreet limited edition, with only a few tweaks giving away the Minerva movement inside, with the most obvious difference being the sub-seconds as opposed to the centre seconds on the standard time-only automatic.

Slightly domed and featuring applied hour markers, the dial has a radially brushed central portion and a frosted chapter ring for the hours. Just under the logo 12 o’clock sits “MB 62.00”, revealing the quality of the movement inside.

More subtle is the “secret signature” in between four and five o’clock – the Minerva logo to indicate the origin of the movement inside – used for the first time on a Montblanc watch.

Elegantly proportioned by 39mm by 9.45mm, the case is steel with a polished finish, and identical in form as that on the standard model. It’s fitted with a domed sapphire crystal, and of course, a display back.

Key facts and price

Heritage Small Second Limited Edition 38
Ref. 124781

Diameter: 39mm
Height: 9.45mm
Material: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 50m

Movement: MB M62.00
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5Hz)
Winding: Hand-wound
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Alligator with folding clasp

Limited edition: 38 pieces
Price: €17,900, including 19% VAT

For more information, visit Montblanc.com.