In a first for an establishment watch brand, Tudor is making all of its new launches available on the first day of Watches & Wonders (W&W), the trade fair that is the watch industry’s largest. The trade fair opens in the morning of Monday, March 27 and starting at noon the same day, the entire Tudor line-up of new models will be available at its pop-up store in downtown Geneva.

Located off the city’s main shopping street of Rue du Rhône, the Tudor pop-up store is situated right beside the F.P. Journe boutique. It will be the first store in Switzerland to offer the Black Bay 58 Bronze (pictured above), a model available only in Tudor boutiques.

While historical practice for the watch industry was to introduce new models in spring and have them available in stores in summer or later, availability has been slowly inching forward as watch brands realise the advantage of having watches for sale as soon as they are visible online.

While W&W remains a trade fair for industry insiders, namely retailers and journalists, to see new products, Tudor’s pop-up store essentially makes its “novelties” available to the public at the same time. It is not unimaginable that one day new models will be available on the spot at W&W or its future equivalent.

Pop-up details

Operated by Swiss retailer Bucherer, the pop-up store opens on the first day of Watches & Wonders, Monday, March 27, 2023 at from 12 pm. It will be open from Monday to Saturday for a month.

Place de Longemalle 15
1204 Geneva
Geneva, Switzerland

For more, visit Tudorwatch.com.

Omega just announced a calibre that sets a new standard for chronometry thanks to a proprietary silicon hairspring known as Spirate. With a promised daily rate of 0/+2 seconds, the new movement set a new benchmark thanks to a silicon hairspring that can be precisely adjusted thanks to its patented form.

The shape of the hairspring allows for diabolically fine adjustment – the watchmaker adjusts the attachment point of the hairspring via a micrometric screw on the balance bridge –  making it possible to obtain a rate precision never before achieved for a mass-produced movement.

The Spirate hairspring attached to the Omega adjustable mass balance

The importance of chronometry

In the past, chronometer competitions conducted by observatories in Geneva, Neuchâtel, London, and a handful of other European cities were a platform for watch brands to prove their mastery of time measurement, with the prize winners declaring themselves “master chronometers”.

The observatory contests were ended soon after Seiko starting sweeping the board with its mechanical chronometers. And in any case, the accuracy of a mechanical watch has rarely been of importance since 1969 when Seiko launched the first quartz wristwatch. Quartz standardisation made it possible to surpass the precision of the finest mechanical chronometer movements by a factor of at least 10 – at a far lower cost – eliminating the functionality necessity of a precision mechanical movement.

A Patek Philippe tourbillon pocket watch that was tested by the Geneva observatory in 1931 and claimed first prize

Today, there are only a few brands that have invested enough to stake out a significant position in mechanical chronometers. Many brands claim chronometric excellence, but few prove it with official certification such as that offered by Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (better known as COSC), which certifies only the movement before it is cased. Other institutions arguably offering a more comprehensive certification by testing and certifying complete watches, including the observatories at Geneva and Besançon.

But perhaps the holy grail of chronometric testing is the double certification known as Master Chronometer. First adopted by Omega, Master Chronometer combines COSC testing of an uncased movement followed by testing of the complete watch by a lab overseen by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), a process that includes testing the magnetism resistance of the watch up to 15,000 Gauss. Almost a decade after the certification was launched, there are only two brands that offer Master Chronometer watches: Omega and Tudor.

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic, the brand’s only Master Chronometer

The historical chronometric champion

Rolex was a pioneer in adopting chronometric excellence as a key element of its marketing, ever since it began labelling the dials of its COSC-certified watches with the declaration “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”. But because COSC tests only the finished movement without case or dial attached, every finished Rolex watch now undergoes an additional chronometry test performed by Rolex itself. The process tests the entire watch to a more stringent level than COSC standards, making it a double certification of sorts akin to Master Chronometer.

Known as Superlative Chronometer, in-house Rolex certification criteria demands a maximum deviation of +2/-2 seconds per day, which translates into a maximum range of four seconds. COSC, on the other hand, requires just +6/-4 seconds a day, equivalent to a range of ten seconds, which is derived from the ISO 3159 standard that defines a “chronometer”.

The only downside is the fact that the testing of the complete watch is done is in-house – Rolex tests its own watches by itself – which means it lacks the stamp of approval of an independent state authority, which Master Chronometer has thanks to METAS oversight.

The battle continues

In a provocative move, Rolex embarked on Master Chronometer certification in May 2021, but only for a single model from its subsidiary brand Tudor. Though trivial on its face, the move was like meant as a message for Omega and its parent Swatch Group.

The debut of the Tudor Master Chronometer implied Rolex did not need an official, external certification to prove its claimed supremacy in chronometric excellence. Moreover, it indicated the Master Chronometer certification was easily within reach of its subsidiary brand specialising in affordable watches.

Two years on, Tudor still has only one watch in its catalogue that is a certified Master Chronometer. One wonders if Tudor’s narrow adoption of the certification was merely to prove that Master Chronometer certification itself was not particularly exceptional.

The Tudor Master Chronometer

Omega, on the other hand, has 95% of its mechanical movements certified as Master Chronometers (almost all of which are equipped with its Co-Axial escapement), which is about 500,000 watches, while the rest of its mechanical watch production is COSC certified. This mass testing and certification is an industrial achievement on a different scale relative to the few thousand Master Chronometer watches certified by Tudor.

With the launch of the Spirate hairspring, Omega has just fired another volley in the chronometric war between Switzerland’s biggest watch brands. It will be interesting to see how Rolex responds.

In a perhaps unsurprising but very much a welcome move, Tudor has just taken the covers off the Pelagos 39, a scaled-down and slightly dressed up version of its “professional” diver’s watch. Rated to 200 m and just 11.8 mm tall, the Pelagos 39 is essentially a condensed version of its bigger brother.

Initial thoughts

No doubt in response to feedback, Tudor has been steadily trimming the sizes of its key models. The brand has preserved the key technical features of the watches while reducing the case diameter, dialling back on the chunkiness of its first-generation models.

The Black Bay Pro was a smaller GMT and a few months later the Pelagos 39 arrives as the smaller “pro” diver. Besides the smaller diameter, the new Pelagos is also thinner, so it will no doubt be more easily wearable on an everyday basis than its 42 mm counterpart.

Wearability aside, the Pelagos 39 is evidently caters to enthusiasts in other ways. It has a symmetrical dial with no date display, while the text above six include a single line in red. It’s difficult not to like the Pelagos 39.

The Pelagos 39 also has subtle changes to the dial and bezel finish that differentiate it from the larger models. The brushed finish on those components give it a little bit more shine, avoiding the muted, functional appearance of the earlier Pelagos watches.

As is typical for Tudor, the Pelagos 39 is priced at just US$4,400. Considering its build quality and movement, that ranks it amongst the best in class for value.

Interestingly, the stock images for the Pelagos 39 include several showing the watch on a lady’s wrist, an implicit but official confirmation that it was developed as a unisex diver’s watch, a statement rarely made by brands

Smaller and better

In contrast to the 42 mm case that was the standard for the entire Pelagos until now, the latest addition to the line is a modest 39 mm in diameter. Though it’s been scaled down, the case retains the same form and finish as its predecessors. It’s entirely brushed for a matte finish, with the lugs sporting the signature bevel along their top edge.

Besides the downsized case, the new diver is also substantially different in terms of dial execution, despite superficial similarities with its siblings in the Pelagos line. The most obvious is “Pelagos” in red, a nod to vintage diver’s watches of the 1970s with similar red text.

But arguably more significant is the dial finish. In contrast to flat, matte finish that characterises the other Pelagos models, the latest edition has a radially brushed dial in a metallic black, matched by a similarly brushed ceramic bezel insert. Both will gently catch the light, giving the Pelagos 39 a degree of reflectivity absent on its larger siblings.

Another notable feature are the applied hour markers that are actually blocks of ceramic-polymer composite impregnated with Super-Luminova – essentially a high-tech plastic mixed with glow-in-the-dark paint that were first used on the Black Bay Pro.

The Pelagos 39 is powered by the MT5400 movement, a variant of the calibre found in Tudor’s other compact watches like the Black Bay Fifty-Eight and Ranger. Like Tudor’s other “manufacture” movements, the MT5400 was developed by Kenissi, a movement maker in which Tudor has a controlling stake.

Despite its relatively small size, the movement has all the bells and whistles found in Tudor’s larger calibres, including a 70-hour power reserve as well as a non-magnetic silicon hairspring.

As is the norm for the Pelagos line, the Pelagos 39 is delivered with both a titanium bracelet as well as a rubber strap. The bracelet features a diver’s extension for it to fit over a wetsuit, but more practical for most owners is the “T-Fit” clasp that incorporates a quick-adjustment mechanism for on-the-fly tweaks to the bracelet length.

Key facts and price

Tudor Pelagos 39
Ref. 25407N

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 11.8 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. MT5400
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet and additional rubber strap

Availability: Now at Tudor retailers
Price: US$4,400, or 6,100 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Tudorwatch.com.

Conceived as a watch for explorers, the Ranger arrived in its current form with an Arabic-numeral dial in the 1960s, although the name dates to 1929. Although the model was revived in 2014, it never really caught on.

Now that looks set to change with the brand-new Ranger that’s a subtly but substantial upgrade over its predecessor. Now housed in a better-proportioned case that now contains an in-house movement, the new Ranger becomes Tudor’s most affordable watch with a proprietary movement, thanks to its retail price that starts well under US$3,000.

Initial thoughts

For watchmaker that excels in affordable, reliable watches, the Ranger makes a lot of sense as it condenses Tudor’s key strengths in a compact, affordable package.

The latest version of the model is equipped with the brand’s state-of-the-art features, including an in-house movement and the “T-fit” micro-adjustment clasp, but is priced at just US$2,725 on strap. In fact, the Ranger almost seems like Tudor intentionally making a point that it delivers arguably the best quality-to-price ratio in Swiss watchmaking. It is difficult, maybe impossible, to find another watch with the same tangible qualities for the same price.

Aside from its technical features, the new Ranger is an intrinsically appealing watch, largely because it has better proportions and details than earlier version. Now 39 mm wide instead of 41 mm, the case is more appropriately given the design and historical inspiration. The diameter is matched with a thickness of 12 mm – slim for a Tudor, especially one with an in-house movement. More importantly, it doesn’t just measure slim, it feels compact on the wrist.

The Ranger checks all the boxes in terms of tangible and quantifiable features, so all that’s left is the appeal of the design. Admittedly the watch looks flat in images, which is certainly not the case in real life. In the metal the watch has a clean, almost stark look that is best described as functional with a hint of retro. Mostly it comes across as a low-key, easy-to-wear everyday watch, which I appreciate very much.

The fabric strap gives the watch a strong vintage vibe

Thoroughly upgraded

The new Ranger was launched to commentate the the 70th anniversary of the British North Greenland Expedition (BNGE), a scientific mission that lasted two years from 1952 to 1954. Mostly drawn from the British army and navy, the expedition members were each equipped with a Tudor Oyster Prince, the model that later evolved into the Ranger. The Prince worked so well during the expedition that one of its members later wrote a letter to Rolex praising the “remarkable accuracy” of his timepiece during his time in the frigid environment, when temperatures reached as low as -66.1 °C.

But this anniversary launch is actually a reboot of the 2014 launch of the first contemporary Ranger. As a result, the latest version is actually a facelift, or more accurately an especially thorough makeover and upgrade. The biggest improvements happens within the case, where the ETA movement has been replaced by the brand’s own MT5402, which offers a superior 70-hour power reserve along with a host of other technical advances.

One of the Oyster Prince watches that went on the expedition and now part of Tudor’s museum (left), and the Ranger

The vintage Ranger (left) and its modern namesake

It’s worth remembering that the MT5402 is a smaller movement first used in the compact Black Bay Fifty-Eight. As a result, Tudor to could shave 2 mm off the case height of the new Ranger, resulting in a watch that looks and feels better.

For a watch with an obvious vintage flavours, proper size and proportions matter. So the 12 mm height and 39 mm diameter of the new Ranger hits the sweet spot for such a watch; it’s neither too big nor too small, but just right.

On the subject of wearability, the bracelet offers a better fit with its micro-adjustment clasp that debuted last year in the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze. It allows for an easy, on-the-fly adjustment of up to 8 mm either way, which is useful when the wrist swells or contracts with changing ambient temperature.

The case middle is satisfyingly thin, giving the Ranger proportions that reminiscent of vintage watches, albeit on a larger scale

In terms of design, the new Ranger sports a pared-back design with several thoughtful tweaks. One is the reshaped seconds hand, which has a red tip instead of being red along its entire length. This change tones down the overall aesthetic and removes a fairly distracting element.

The simplified design continues with the bracelet, which does away with faux rivets and straight end-links, giving it a streamlined look

The case was also reshaped by giving it a more aggressive profile with more pronounced lugs, which now gain a wide bevel that tapers towards the crown. Perhaps more importantly, the case is now entirely matte with a brushed finish on all surfaces. Though simple at a glance, the brushed finish is nicely done with a mix of different grains and directions, with a little bit of refinement provided by the mirror polished rim of the bezel.

And lastly, as is now the norm for Tudor, the Ranger is offered with strap options beyond the bracelet. One is a rubber strap covered in fabric, and the other is a dark olive, NATO-style fabric strap with a gold-and-tan stripe.

Key facts and price

Tudor Ranger
Ref. 79950

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 12 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. MT5402
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet, fabric strap or hybrid rubber-and-fabric strap

Availability: Now at Tudor retailers
Price: US$2,725 on strap, US$3,050 on bracelet

For more, visit Tudorwatch.com.

Tudor finally introduces a more compact GMT watch with the Black Bay Pro, which is 39 mm and equipped with a fixed bezel.

With slightly retro styling, the Black Bay Pro nonetheless has all the features that characterise Tudor, including a proprietary movement with a silicon hairspring as well as the newly-developed T-Fit micro-adjustment clasp.

Initial thoughts

The Black Bay Pro is what I have been hoping for, a more compact Tudor GMT. It has a 39 mm case just like the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, the perfect size in my estimation. And it has a true GMT function thanks to the MT5652 inside.

It also sports a useful upgrade: the T-Fit clasp that allows for micro-adjustment on the fly, giving this a feature usually found on pricier watches.

The aesthetic certainly beings to mind the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655, which is a good thing (and it was probably designed with a knowing wink).

Arguably the only downside is the case thickness. At 14.6 mm high the watch is thick, though not excessively so. It does not feel ungainly on the wrist, although the flat, vertical case sides do accentuate the height.

Another only potential downside is the fixed bezel, which means the watch cannot track the third time zone that’s possible on the standard GMT. It’s not a dealbreaker for me since the third time zone functionality is something I never use on a GMT watch.

Still, the Black Bay Pro is an impressive value proposition all things considered, and certainly one of the best buys of the fair.

Fixed and brushed

The Black Bay Pro has a conventional Black Bay dial with “snowflake” hands, including a “snowflake” GMT hand in yellow. And like several other Tudor watches, the luminous hands and markers have a beige tone.

But the “lume” is a first for Tudor – the hour markers are actually pieces of ceramic impregnated with Super-Luminova applied to the dial. As a result, they lack the borders traditionally found on the hour markers of Tudor dials.

The 39 mm steel case has a fixed bezel that’s been engraved and filled with black lacquer to create the 24-hour second time zone scale. This works in tandem with the yellow hand to indicate two time zones, home and local times.

The Black Bay Pro is powered by the MT5652, which is made by Kenissi, like Tudor’s other proprietary movements. It has a silicon hairspring and 70-hour power reserve.

Lastly, the watch is also equipped with a T-Fit clasp. First found on last year’s Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze, the T-Fit clasp has a micro-adjustment mechanism that allows an adjustment of up to 8 mm either way.

Key facts and price

Tudor Black Bay Pro
Ref. 79470

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 14.6 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. MT5652
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and second time zone
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Bronze bracelet, and additional fabric strap

Availability: At Tudor retailers
Price: CHF3,500 on strap, CHF3,800 on bracelet

For more, visit Tudorwatch.com.

Last summer Tudor introduced several Black Bay variants such as the Fifty-Eight 925 and METAS-certified Ceramic. Though one of the most affordable amongst the year’s new launches, the most unique was arguably the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze.

While bronze is not a new material for Tudor – the brand has unveiled several bronze dive watches in the past – it’s a first for the compact Black Bay Fifty-Eight (BB58) and also the first instance of a bronze bracelet. Given the popularity of the standard Fifty-Eight in steel, it leads to the obvious question: is the Fifty-Eight in bronze interesting enough to differentiate itself from its predecessors?

Initial thoughts

With the original BB58 has proven itself a winner, it is logical that Tudor builds on its success with a new palette, case material, and even minor improvements to the case construction. Though it is a Fifty-Eight in name, the Bronze is a very different watch.

For starters, it is the first Tudor dive watch with a bracelet that isn’t steel. More usefully, the bronze bracelet incorporates a newly-developed, micro-adjustment clasp for easy sizing on the fly.

While bronze isn’t rare amongst dive watches in general, it is unusual for Tudor, so credit should be given to the brand for its choice of case material. Tudor doubles down on the material by taking the bold step of using bronze not just for the case but also the bracelet, making this one of the few watches with a bracelet in the metal.

Bronze is popular due to the patina that develops as it ages – conversely that is also the reason it is unpopular.  So for anyone who likes the material, the BB58 Bronze is more of a good thing. But for someone on the fence, end-to-end bronze might be too much. The appeal of the material is highly personal.

At US$4,625, it’s hard to argue against the value proposition of the Fifty-Eight Bronze. Like all Tudor watches, it is priced competitively. More broadly, even though retail prices for the various Fifty-Eights have crept upwards in small annual increments since their introduction, the line remains affordable.

Notably, the Fifty-Eight Bronze is also Tudor’s first boutique edition, which indicates a new chapter for the brand, namely one of more boutiques, continuing the increasing individuality of Tudor as a standalone brand.

Though the availability is limited given that it’s boutique-only, the Bronze offers strong value given its design, movement, and brand heritage. It is one of the most compelling buys at its price point, which makes it well worth the wait.

Aluminium-bronze

Traditionally, timepieces were largely in gold or steel, so it might be surprising that bronze preceded steel. Even the early adopters of bronze only began using it as a case metal half a century ago – Chronoswiss and Gerald Genta were the pioneers – so the metal is still somewhat of a novelty.

As with its other bronze watches, Tudor uses a bronze alloy that’s atypical compared to the rest of the industry. The conventional alloy for watch cases is comprised mainly of copper and tin, and develops a greenish patina that is copper oxide. Tudor, on the other hand, relies on an alloy where aluminium replaces tin.

The composition results in a brown-grey patina that is actually aluminium oxide, which encapsulates the alloy and protects it against corrosion. This particular alloy is typically used by the marine and aviation industries because to its corrosion resistance, which means it can be submerged in water, and salt water, for an extended period of time without ill effects.

As mentioned earlier, bronze is not commonly used due to its tendency to oxidise. It is more catered to watch enthusiasts who appreciate the changing nature of the material over time.

Tudor slows the process by giving the case and bracelet a brushed finish, which evens out the patina as it develops. The composite of the alloy also means the patina develops more slowly. For those who dislike the aggressive, sunken-treasure look of most bronze cases, the BB58 Bronze will be more palatable.

Beyond its colour, aluminium bronze is also more resilient. According to Tudor, the alloy is 50% harder than regular bronze, which better preserves the brushed finish. However, the hardness of the bronze alloy still pales in comparison to steel.

The bronze bracelet

Unique to the BB58 Bronze is the bronze bracelet. Given that most bronze watches have either a fabric or leather band, the bracelet is certainly refreshing.

A bronze bracelet is rare because of the patina that develops with conventional bronze, which is layer of copper salts known as Verdigris, which can be unsightly and also cause the skin to turn green.

But because Tudor’s bronze alloy is of a different composition, its patina is aluminium salt that largely dulls the finish, rather than changes it colour.

I do appreciate the bronze “rivet” bracelet. It is entirely bronze, including the links, end links, clasp, and even the screws that hold the links together.

While perhaps too affected on the steel BB58, the faux rivets work much better here due to the material, which exudes vintage charm and nostalgia.

The clasp has a new, streamlined design compared to that on the steel BB58. The shield logo found on most Tudor bracelets has been omitted, resulting in a slightly smaller safety lock.

And the clasp now has a rectangular outline, instead of the shield-shaped outline of the standard BB58. The latter clasp has a pointed lower edge that can mark the bracelet where it contacts the links.

Ironically, despite it being an improvement, the redesigned clasp is the only thing I don’t like about the watch. The new clasp looks a bit dated; I like the Tudor shield safety lock on the steel bracelet since it is different but in a subtle manner.

But the most important, and often underrated, feature of the bracelet is the adjustable clasp. Dubbed T-fit, the clasp allows for easy adjustment of the bracelet in five increments, covering a total length of 8 mm.

Technically a diver’s extension clasp to allow the watch to be worn over a diving suit, the clasp is useful for “desk divers”. Since the wrist expands and contracts according to ambient temperature, an on-the-fly adjustment mechanism can cater to that.

While the adjustable clasp is not as novel as that on the Tudor Pelagos (which incorporates an automatic adjustment system), it’s an excellent feature especially at this price point. Aesthetically, the BB58 clasp is also more pleasing than the Pelagos clasp, which requires an aperture on the clasp to accommodate the adjustment system.

This new clasp hints at a possible upgrade across the BB58 line, though past releases have shown that Tudor’s application of new inventions is difficult to predict, even within the same line. While it introduced clear case backs and METAs certification for dive watches, subsequent launches did not receive either of those. That said, upgrades are a certainty with Tudor, except that they take a long, long time to proliferate.

The entire watch is bronze, with the exception of the case back that is steel coated with a bronze-tone finish. This is the norm for bronze watches as the metal can cause an allergic reactions on the skin with prolonged contact.

Tri-Arabics

Consistent with Tudor’s other bronze watches is the “3-6-9” dial. This configuration is often associated with the Rolex Explorer – it is sometimes known as an “Explorer” dial – but is new to the BB58 family.

The rounded font for the numerals bring to mind the dials of vintage Rolex watches. In comparison to the bold typeface found on modern Explorers, the font on the BB58 Bronze gives it a vintage feel matched by the warm hue of the bronze case.

Three dimensional and beautifully finished

The BB58 Bronze also differentiates itself from Tudor’s previous bronze watches with its dial in a striking, graduated brown. It is several shades darker than the original Black Bay Bronze that had a brown dial (which has since been replaced by a grey dial).

The darker colour complements the bronze case as it ages; the brown patina developed by the case will echo the dial colour. And the dial also has a gentle fume finish that adds a depth to its appearance.

Like the hands and markers, the flange is plated in gold, completing the gilt print on the dial

Concluding thoughts

With several new features being introduced in the BB58 Bronze, it is certainly an exciting debut that hints at what might is to come in the distant future for the brand’s other models.

Minor upgrades like a new clasp tend to be glossed over if the execution of the watch is not up to par. Thankfully, the BB58 Bronze does not disappoint with its excellent finish and appealing proportions, as well as the attention paid to seemingly minor details that accentuate the allure of the watch.

Key facts and price

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze
Ref. M79012M-0001

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 11.9 mm
Material: Bronze
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. MT5400
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Bronze bracelet, and additional fabric strap

Availability: Only at Tudor boutiques
Price: US$4,625; or 6,390 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Tudorwatch.com.

The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is a dive watch in precious metal, but still affordable – by a large margin compared to the all-yellow gold version – but no less intriguing than its pricier cousin. The standout feature of the”925″ is obvious from the model name: a case made of sterling silver, which is 92.5% silver by weight.

But the taupe colour scheme is perhaps more unusual, especially for a dive watch. Essentially a muted grey with a hint of olive, the palette makes this the most understated Black Bay to date.

I was impressed when this was released at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, but found it seemingly bland when I first saw it in the metal, albeit tightly wrapped in protective plastic. A few months later, Tudor lent me one for a test drive. The brand had insured the watch and assured me that it was fine to wear it out of the house, so I wore it out the day I received it.

Initial thoughts

A bestseller since its inception three years ago, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight (BB58) quickly evolved from a single model into a line-up of five variants, three of which – gold, silver, and bronze – were launched just this year. Five versions in three years might sound like a lot, but each iteration is vastly different in both style and material, so each has its own appeal. Most importantly, each BB58 variant will likely appeal to different buyers.

Among the BB58s, the 925 is arguably the most unique. For one, a precious metal case is novel for Tudor, a brand that has focused on reliable and affordable watches since its establishment (Tudor did have a handful of solid-gold models in the past but they were not sports watches). Then there’s the fact that sterling silver is rarely used in watchmaking, which makes it intriguing.

Aside from the material, the muted palette is also novel. With its dial and bezel in olive grey, the 925 is more understated than its counterparts – and looks quite different from most dive watches on the market. And the colour also gives it a contemporary feel, making it distinct from other BB58s that are clearly vintage inspired.

During the week that I wore the watch, I found the dial colour more more vivid than it appeared in store or photos. The taupe has a touch of warmth in it, which goes well with the silver case that has a faint hint of yellow in its colour. As a result, the watch is as low-key and classy as a rugged dive watch can be.

Granted, I did not wear the watch for long enough for the case to oxidise (and it will). Once the case gets a bit of patina, its silvery tone will grow less obvious, which will make the dial colour stand out even more I suspect.

The case is a bright, silvery tone when new

And of course, there is the fine build quality. Watch brands all have their respective strengths, and these strengths are varied, from movement finishing to guilloche to ultra-thin calibres. Some brands are so good that they become best in class within a segment.

Tudor’s edge lies in the fact that it’s perhaps the best performer overall in its price category. Its watches have a consistency in quality across all elements, from dial to case and to movement, a feat which is arguably unmatched. And that quality is also consistent across all of Tudor’s watches, regardless of the price. That is evident across all elements of the 925.

Offered either on a fabric or leather strap, the 925 costs over a quarter more than the steel version on strap. The disparity in price is enough that it’s noticeable, even thought the watch is still affordable in absolute terms.

Still, the price is easily justified given the uniqueness of the watch in terms of aesthetics and material, as well as its quality. The 925 will certainly appeal to anyone who likes a 39 mm dive watch with a vintage-flavour but finds earlier versions of the BB58s too stark or too retro.

Taupe

While the silver case is the most surprising element of the 925 on paper, it’s the dial that stands out in person. Perhaps the colour is a nod to the faded, “ghost” bezels of vintage dive watches.

Though the shade is common in fashion, taupe is rarely used in watches, particularly for the dial. The colour stands on its own as modern and minimalist, but for those in the know it serves as a subtle reminder of vintage dive watches with “ghost” bezels.

The taupe bezel and dial give the watch a desaturated look that makes it strikingly different from other Tudor dive watches, which mostly have rich, high-contrast colours. Thankfully the palette doesn’t come across as faux-patina, which might have been the case if it was a graduated grey.

At the same time, the hands and hour markers are restrained and match the silver print on the dial. The coherent colours – plus the silvery tone of the case – creates something of a dress-watch feel, making the 925 less incongruent with formal attire than the average dive watch.

The dial is more than just a pleasing colour. As is executed for Tudor, it does not disappoint under magnification. The hour markers are three-dimensional – stamped, polished, filled with lume, and secured to the dial with pins. And the hands are finished in a similar manner, but their wider, flat surfaces show the finishing better.

Still, the dial details aren’t as elaborate as you might find on a Grand Seiko – they lack the sharp definition of diamond cut markers – but are tidy, clean, and very good for the price. And that solid, workmanship quality is a consistent theme throughout the watch.

Even the “pip” on the bezel is neatly shaped and polished

Silver

The consistency of build quality continues into the case. It is constructed and finished in a neat, workmanlike manner, although nothing about it is especially striking.

Unlike the steel versions that have polished bevels and flanks, the silver case is entirely brushed. But despite the all-matte finish, it manages to be interesting, thanks to the varied directions of the linear graining. The flanks are simply brushed longitudinally, but the lugs are more interestingly executed. They reveal radial lines emanating outward on both the top surfaces and the wide bevels.

The change in curvature of the graining is a result of technology, namely a multi-axis computer numerical control (CNC) machine. This type of CNC mill is equipped with drill bits that can move in three directions, while the workpiece can move in another one or two directions.

To create the lugs, the head of the tool moves in one direction, while the workpiece holding the case rotates, resulting in a radial brushing on the lugs and bevels. While it adds nuance to the form of the case – and hence gives it a more refined look – the brushed and bevelled lugs can be economically replicated in vast quantities thanks to as mass production technology like the CNC machine – making better quality accessible at a lower price.

The same lugs and finishing can be found on the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze

As for the case metal, it is appealing for its colour and uncommon nature. The metal’s novelty alone makes it attractive, especially since dive watches all tend to stick a similar formula in terms of design and materials.

That said, silver doesn’t have an intrinsic value. While silver is a precious metal, it is not expensive – gold costs over 80 times as much as silver on the commodity market. With a hardness comparable to gold, silver should also be straightforward to process and machine.

Alloy science

The final point relating to the case is its appearance over time. Tudor states in the official material for the watch that “use does not affect the appearance of the case of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925”.

That presumably means the case is tarnish resistant but not tarnish proof – which makes sense according to knowns science. Tarnish-resistant silver alloys have been around for over a century, but experts agree while the metal can be made less prone to tarnishing, it cannot be made impervious.

Even though the loan watch was newish, I did notice some oxidisation of the silver, specifically on the underside of the buckle. I assume that will also occur on the case after extended wear, and that the tarnishing will differ from watch to watch depending on the wearer’s lifestyle.

Such ageing is typically desirable in watches that have cases made of metals that oxidise – bronze being the most obvious example – but the aged look is clearly not for everyone. The sunken-treasure look of bronze, for instance, is an acquired taste for many.

But silver might be harder to digest than bronze. Patinated silver is arguably less congruent than oxidised bronze, since the former feels like a more refined, formal metal but the later is synonymous with maritime instruments and sailing.

Personally, I can’t say whether I like the patina since I didn’t have the watch long enough for one to develop. It might look beautiful, like old silverware, or it might look odd.

In-house movement

Dubbed MT5400, the movement visible under the sapphire back of the 925 is almost identical to the MT5402 found in the steel BB58, save for a wider base plate to fill aperture of the see-through back (and maybe to allow for thinner case walls to reduce the weight of the precious metal cases).

The open case back sparkled much discussion during the launch of the 925 and its compatriots, for it is rare that Tudor exhibits the movement.

While this is not the first Tudor with a display back – that title belongs to the little-appreciated North Flag – the brand has progressed considerably since the launch of the North Flag in 2015 (which incidentally was the first Tudor with an in-house movement). So it feels like the 925 and 18k are the first Tudor watches with a display back.

The display back reveals a cleanly finished, industrially manufactured calibre.

In terms of decoration, the MT5400 is low key. It’s finished like any other Tudor in-house movement (except that in the Black Bay Ceramic), with the bridges and plates sand-blasted, while the rotor is radially brushed, for a look that’s clean but simple.

The smaller details are attended to, but in a basic manner. The bevelling on the bridges and the countersinks for screws and jewels are all stamped, then the entire component is sandblasted.

It almost feels like Tudor has deliberately chosen to not dress up the movement and it’s a missed opportunity. Even modest tweaks like a fancier rotor or higher-contrast finishing would make a big difference, as demonstrated by the calibre inside the latest-generation Chanel J12, which is powered by a nearly-identical movement from the same factory (that is majority owned by Tudor).

That said, the open case back does the job of indicating it is a mechanical movement inside, and an excellent calibre in fact. Besides a three-day power reserve, it also has a silicon hairspring, which eliminates the possibility of a magnetised hairspring that results in a watch that’ll run fast with low amplitude, gaining up to several hours in a day.

And it boasts details like the full balance bridge that holds a free-sprung balance. The full bridge provides better shock resistance while the latter delivers better stability over time as well as improved isochronism as there are no regulator pins to interfere the hairspring. That matters because these are features are not commonly found in watches in the same price bracket, such as those from Grand Seiko.

The technical qualities of the movements are attested to by Tudor’s own certification process, which guarantees a maximum daily deviation of +4/-2 seconds, a standard that’s also superior to most of its rivals in the same price range. And the movement is also COSC tested and certified.

Conclusion

Like most Tudor watches, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is great value.

The watch is thoughtfully executed through and through, with a focus on simple quality and reliability rather than frills and enhancements. It does not excel in one, singular aspect, but the every aspect of the watch has been consistently executed to an excellent standard, a reassuring consistency in quality that makes the whole larger than the sum of its parts.

And the 925 is one of the most adventurous watches from the brand in both material and design. The silver case is interesting and unique among its peers. Add to that the taupe bezel and dial – result in an uncharacteristically understated look for a dive watch – and the 925 is a clear sign that Tudor is conscious of its growing audience clientele and diversifying its offerings while retaining its signature styling cues.

Key facts and price

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925
Ref. 79010SG

Diameter: 39.0 mm
Height: 12.7 mm
Material: 925 sterling silver
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. MT5400
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Leather or fabric with pin buckle

Availability: Already at boutiques and authorised retailers
Price: US$4,300; or 5,904 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Tudorwatch.com.

Leaked online prior to its launch – David Beckham inadvertently revealed the watch on his Instagram account – the Tudor Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” was widely expected yet surprisingly, at least in the metal.

Developed in collaboration with the combat divers of the Commando Hubert, an elite unit of the Commandos Marine, part of the special forces of the French Navy, or Marine Nationale. The divers covertly travel underwater in pairs, and the Pelagos FXD is one of the tools they use for aquatic navigation. The FXD revives the relationship Tudor maintained with the French Navy for several decades starting in the 1950s when the watchmaker first supplied the navy with dive watches.

A Submariner ref. 9401/0 issued to French navy divers in the 1970s

Initial thoughts

I liked the idea of the FXD when I first saw the photos, and seeing it in the metal reinforced my opinion, enough that I bought one.

Beyond its tangible qualities its best characteristic in my opinion is its status as the only watch developed as a military-issue timepiece – that is currently in active service with a unit – in the mid- to high-end segment of modern watchmaking.

This sets the FXD apart from watches made by other brands that supply military units with civilian watches bearing the unit insignia, as brands like IWC, Breitling, and Bell & Ross do.

Being a military-issue watch the FXD is straightforward, but it also boasts the attention to detail one expects from Tudor, even on the finishing of the fixed bars. It’s a simple, functional watch that combines Tudor’s typically excellent price-performance ratio with actual military provenance.

Admittedly, I did initially wish Tudor had done more to make the FXD different, for instance in terms of high-performance materials or even a special movement. Then I realised that this is also a military-issue instrument funded by tax payers, so it really has to be a reasonably priced, no-frills tool. That purity of concept is appealing in itself.

On the topic of military provenance, it should be pointed out that the military-issue version of the FXD is slightly different from the civilian version you see here, but the differences are minor enough that they don’t really matter.

The watch itself wears well. While the FXD is 42 mm like most Tudor dive watches, it is notably thinner, which gives it an appealingly flat profile. That means it looks tangibly different from the Pelagos – the blue is also a darker shade – and distinct within Tudor’s lineup of dive watches.

The only downside of I can think of is availability – the “21” batch seems to have sold out quickly – though it will be available next year with “22” on the back, continuing on with subsequent years.

Fuss-free diver

The civilian FXD – short for “fixed” – is essentially identical to the actual mil-spec watches issued to MN divers, save for a few details.

One difference is the case back, which is again simpler on the issued examples, which are merely engraved “M.N” and the year of issue. The other is the text on the dial above six o’clock – the issue watch does without the chronometer labelling.

In all other aspects the FXD is identical to the military-issue watch, which is what makes it cool. The distinction between the civilian and military versions is purely aesthetic, and minor at that.

Low key and subtle, the blue of the FXD is specific to the model. It’s darker than the blue on the Pelagos and more of a navy blue than that on the Black Bay Fifty-Eight.

The case is titanium and 42 mm in diameter, which is the same as most Tudor dive watches. But at 12.75 mm high the FXD is quite a bit thinner than the Pelagos, which comes in at 14.2 mm. That reduction in height is in part due to the removal of the date, as well as the helium escape valve (which is unnecessary since the navy’s combat divers aren’t saturation divers).

Compared with the Pelagos (below), the FXD has noticeably narrower lugs as well as a flatter back

The case is finished in the usual Tudor manner, so it has sharp, clean lines with strong definition and crisp edges. Every surface is brushed, while the bezel is a matte blue ceramic. Notably, the bezel has larger knurling than on Tudor’s other dive watches, allowing for better grip.

While the case is well done, the fixed strap bars stand out in illustrating Tudor’s attention to detail.

Such fixed bars are common in vintage military watches, which had separate steel tubes driven into the lug holes. They were necessary since military-issue watches require a secure strap attachment that can’t be easily broken.

On the FXD the fixed bars are integral with the case – the case is stamped and milled to create the bars. To prevent the bars from wearing away at the fabric strap, both bars have a tiny chamfer on their outer edges – a tiny yet remarkably impressive detail.

Another appealing element of the FXD is its strap, or straps since it is delivered with a pair of them. Both are unique to the watch, having been developed specially for it. Each has its own buckle that is not found on other Tudor models.

The fabric strap is probably the only element of the entire watch that could be improved. I would have preferred a small stopper at the end of the strap, so that it needs some effort to remove from the buckle, allowing the strap to remain a closed loop unless it needs to be removed from the watch.

The case back is solid and bears both the Marine Nationale emblem as well as the historically-inspired year of production. Vintage navy-issue dive watches bore the same “MN” and issue year on the back, explaining the engraving on the FXD. And Tudor is now the official supplier to the combat divers of the French Navy, hence the emblem on the back.

What lies beneath the back is more important. The MT5602 is one of Tudor’s in-house movements, which are amongst the highest-spec calibres in the price segment. It boasts a free sprung balance wheel with a silicon hairspring, as well as a 70-hour power reserve.

And though hidden, the movement is finished in a clean, industrial manner that is slightly more elaborate than the ETA or Sellita movements common in this price segment.

Key facts and price

Tudor Pelagos FXD
Ref.M25707B/21-0001

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.75 mm
Material: Titanium case with steel case back
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: MT5602
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Fabric strap with Velcro closure, and additional rubber strap

Availability: Now at Tudor boutiques and retailers
Price: US$3,900; or 5,370 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Tudorwatch.com.

Correction November 13, 2021: The FXD was developed as a military-issue watch and is in active service with a military unit, making it unique amongst such contemporary watches.

Correction November 14, 2021: The FXD is available with fabric straps of different lengths, and not just one length as stated in an earlier version of the story. 

Earlier this year Tudor resurrected its partnership with France’s navy, the Marine Nationale, some two decades after it last supplied military-spec Submariners to the navy’s divers.

Now the brand has finally revealed a project two years in the making, the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale”. Developed together with the members of the Commando Hubert, the navy’s elite combat divers, the Pelagos FXD is an actual military issue timepiece – the unit’s divers wear the same watch during operations – with fixed bars and a no-nonsense aesthetic.

The Pelagos FXD is a time-only diver just like the Submariner ref. 9401/0 “MN” issued to divers of the French navy in the 1970s

Initial thoughts

Images of a Commando Hubert graduation ceremony appeared online several months ago, revealing the watch. So the Pelagos FXD was expected, but still manages to surprise. It is clearly a nod to the ref. 9401/0 “MN” of the 1970s – nicknamed “snowflake” after its hands and dial – and is as close to a vintage Submariner as a modern Tudor can be. But it still has a few extras appeal to military watch aficionados.

The fabric strap has a Velcro fastener so it can be adjusted more precisely to any wrist size

Most notable are the lugs, which are a reinterpretation of the fixed bars found on vintage military-issue dive watches. They form one piece with the case, making the connection between the case and strap far more robust. It’s certainly over-engineered for anyone who isn’t a combat diver, but it is a genuine element that’s neither decorative nor artificial.

In fact, the fixed lugs arguably put the Pelagos FXD in the same category as the quirky P01 – both are “tool” watches that are clearly catered to a niche audience, though the Pelagos FXD is the only one that is legitimately military spec.

There’s one less line of text at six o’clock as the dial does without “ROTOR SELF-WINDING” that’s found on the standard Pelagos

Another important detail is the omission of a date, which is a first for a Pelagos since its debut in 2012. And the bezel is entirely new, being a bidirectional, countdown bezel that is slightly wider than usual – a crucial tool for combat divers performing underwater navigation.

And because the date has been omitted, the Pelagos FXD is 1.5 mm thinner than the standard model, giving it a surprisingly flat profile on the wrist for a true “tool” watch.

The FXD on the rubber strap, which has a conventional pin buckle

Can the Pelagos FXD get better? Maybe but not by much. It has a water resistance of 200 m, which is more than enough for combat divers – the vintage Submariner “MN” had the same rating – but less than the 500 m of the standard Pelagos. At the same time, it isn’t METAS-certified like the Black Bay Ceramic launched a few months ago.

At US$3,900, the Pelagos FXD is competitively priced just all Tudor watches. In fact, it’s one of the brand’s highest-spec’d watches, making it one of Tudor’s most compelling offerings.

The matte ceramic bezel is entirely “lumed”

Marine Nationale

Tudor started supplying watches to the French Navy almost since the brand started making dive watches. In fact, the relationship began in 1954 – just a year after Rolex introduced the Submariner – when it supplied the navy with the ref. 7922, the brand’s first-ever dive watch.

But the quintessential Tudor military-issue diver is definitely the Submariner ref. 9401/0 “MN” that two decades later. Crucially, the ref. 9401/0 had a few features that set it apart from a Rolex dive watch, making it unique to Tudor. Most obvious are the blue dial and bezel, but the “snowflake” hands and square markers are its defining feature.

Being the iconic dive watch of the French Navy, the ref. 9401/0 “MN” was a natural choice as the inspiration for the Pelagos FXD.

The ref. 9401/0 “MN” better known as the “Snowflake”

One of the most important historically inspired details is the engraving on the case back, which is unusual for a modern-day Tudor, which typically have plain backs.

The back is engraved with Marine National logo, and also “M.N.21”, short for “Marine Nationale” and the year of production, a reference to the French navy’s numbering convention on the vintage Tudor “MN” watches.

Vintage military-issue dive watches were similarly marked with “M.N.” followed by the year of issue, for instance “80”

Key facts and price

Tudor Pelagos FXD
Ref.M25707B/21-0001

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.75 mm
Material: Titanium case with steel case back
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: MT5602
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Fabric strap with Velcro closure, and additional rubber strap

Availability: Now at Tudor boutiques and retailers
Price: US$3,900; or 5,370 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Tudorwatch.com.

Tudor’s entry into Only Watch 2021 is typical – a reinterpretation of one of its current models – but at the same time strikingly unusual. The Black Bay GMT One is a dual time zone with a heavily aged finish on the case and bracelet, along with an open back showing off a movement similar to that found in the recent Black Bay Ceramic.

Initial thoughts

Tudor’s watches are ordinarily excellent quality and tremendous value, though most are styled within certain aesthetic confines. The brand gets to do things differently at Only Watch, and the Black Bay GMT One is probably the most interesting to date.

Most Tudor watches look shiny and new, and even those that acquire a patina remain pristine under the crystal. The GMT One is purposefully aged, even on the dial and movement, which gives it a lived-in look that’s appealing in a sports watch.

Granted, the aged bracelet seems a bit much – I’d wear it on a strap – but given that there’ll only be one of these and it’ll sell for about US$350,000 that’s a moot point.

Lastly, it’s notable that the GMT One is powered by a Master Chronometer movement, perhaps a reference to the strategic genius of the similar movement found in the Black Bay Ceramic.

Slightly worn

The GMT One has a case steel and bracelet that are identical to that found on the standard model, except for the surface treatment. Both are finished with a black coating that is then partially and randomly worn off via tumble polishing, creating an aged-gunmetal finish.

The rest of the watch is similarly treated for a faux-vintage appearance. The bezel insert is aged steel with engraving markings, while the dial is a matte black with a variegated surface finish.

Most surprising is the MT5652-1U within. It features bridges and a rotor identical to the movement in the Black Bay Ceramic, except that the components have been aged just like the case. The bridges and rotor are first coated black, and then tumble polished to create a worn finish.

Key facts and price

Tudor Black Bay GMT One
Ref. M7983/001U

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 14.6 mm
Material: Steel with aged coating
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. MT5652-1U
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, second time zone, and date
Additional features: METAS and COSC certification
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet with aged coating

Limited edition: Piece unique
Availability: To be sold at Only Watch on November 6, 2021
Estimate: 4,000-8,000 Swiss francs

For more, visit Onlywatch.com.