Having covered highlights from independent watchmakers at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches I auction in Hong Kong, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on April 5.

We look at eight notable lots. Some, like the platinum Patek Philippe ref. 5016 with its minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon, are amongst the most valuable in the sale. But the catalogue also has value buys, notably including offerings from jewellers like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Bulgari.

Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue can be accessed here.

The Patek Philippe ref. 5016P

Lot 2137: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux

One of the most poetic timepieces by the Parisian jeweller, the Pont des Amoureux was a watch that helped make Van Cleef & Arpels as a watchmaker. This watch is the original and cleanest version of the model, which was discontinued in 2019 and replaced by a revised version.

The watch is all about a uniquely whimsical depiction of the passing of time. A double retrograde display takes the form of two figures: a lady with an umbrella indicates the hours whilst a gentleman marks the minutes.

The two figures move towards one another over the course of 12 hours, until they meet and “kiss” on top of the bridge that overlooks the Seine river – this happens twice in a day, at midday and midnight.

The dial is executed in grisaille enamel, a meticulous process that dates back to the 16th century. The technique requires numerous layers of enamel fired in an oven, followed by artful scratching to remove layers and create shading and lines.

Like the many of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Poetic Complications, this is powered by the Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 846 with a complications module produced by Agenhor, the Geneva specialist responsible for most of the jeweller’s most interesting complications.

Accompanied by only its presentation box, this has an estimate of HK$400,000-600,000, or about US$51,000-76,500. You can find out more in the catalogue.

Lot 2139: Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Grande Sonnerie

Audemars Piguet (AP) has always been associated with the Royal Oak, at least for the last three decades. But it has long excelled at complications, notably the grande sonnerie. In the 1990s, it was one of the handful of brands offering the complication in a wristwatch (and it recently returned to the complication with the Code 11:59 Universelle).

A grande sonnerie strikes the hours and quarters as they pass, but also the time on demand as a minute repeater with the pusher at 11 o’clock. The slider at two o’clock allows the wearer to select grande sonnerie, petite sonnerie, or silent mode.

While these functions have lost their practicality in contemporary times, their complexity means they are still very much appreciated by discerning collectors.

This example is a Jules Audemars. Long before the Code 11.59, the Jules Audemars was the brand’s long-lived but ultimately unsuccessful attempt at a round watch. Named after one of the brand’s founders, Jules Audemars was clean and classical.

Here the case is pink gold and 38.5 mm in diameter. Inside is the cal. 2868, a manual-wind movement developed by Renaud & Papi, the complications subsidiary of AP.

Most notable is the blue dial with luminous hands and markers, a variant that is amongst the least common for the Jules Audemars Grande Sonnerie.

Accompanied by only its presentation box, this Jules Audemars Grande Sonnerie is numbered “15/50”. The estimate is HK$600,000-800,000, or about US$76,500-102,000.

You can find out more in the catalogue.

Lot 2143: Cartier CPCP Tank Cintrée ref. 2767

Created in 1921, the elongated Tank Cintreé is one of the most desirable variants of Cartier’s iconic watch. And to celebrate and reissue Cartier designs from throughout the 20th century, Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) was debuted 1998 and lasted for a decade.

This example is a CPCP Tank Cintreé released in 2004 as a limited series of 150 pieces for the Asian market, explaining the Chinese numerals on the lower dial. It retains the classic case design but with tweaks.

For one, the watch has been reconfigured to display dual time zones that are independently adjustable. The upper dial has Roman numerals while the lower dial features Chinese numerals. This transforms an otherwise ordinary time-only Tank into an elegant and functional traveller’s watch.

This example has an 18k white gold case that measures 45 mm in diameter and 23.5 mm high. It has a silvered guilloche dial with concentric patterning.

Numbered “86/100”, the present example is in excellent condition and complete with its original accessories. The estimate is HK$120,000-180,000, or about US$15,300-23,000.

For more, visit the catalogue entry.

Lot 2167: A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon

A. Lange & Söhne has been at the vanguard of German watchmaking since its revival in 1994. While its seminal watches like the Lange 1 and Datograph are best known, the brand has also made more novel and obscure watches.

One of them was the Cabaret introduced in 1997, but like many form watches eventually faded into obscurity. The current Lange collection focuses on round watches.

This is one of the later iterations of the Cabaret and certainly the most complicated. Large, heavy, and equipped with an impressive hacking tourbillon, the Cabaret Tourbillon was never a bestseller, making it fairly rare.

Dating to 2008, the Cabaret Tourbillon has the hacking tourbillon at six and a digital date display above for visual balance. The seconds and power reserve sub-dials are placed at the seven and four o’clock positions respectively.

Inside is the cal. L042.1, a manual-wind movement with a one-minute tourbillon. Thanks to its patented hacking seconds mechanism, the movement has been designed to halt the tourbillon when the crown is pulled.

Like most Lange movements, the calibre is characterised by striped German silver bridges, blued screws, and jewels in gold chatons. Like most Lange tourbillon movements, it features twin cocks that are hand-engraved with a floral motif – one that supports the tourbillon cage and the other for the wheel that drives the cage.

The watch is accompanied by its box, certificate, and original accessories. The estimate is HK$600,000-800,000, or around US$76,500-102,000.

Find out more in the catalogue.

Lot 2181: Bulgari Octa Roma Papillon Central Tourbillon

Lot 2276: Patek Philippe ref. 3945

Like better-known ref. 3940, this is a full perpetual calendar. It displays the complete calendar, moon’s current phase in a small aperture at six o’clock, along with a leap year.

In its standard form, the Patek Philippe ref. 5078 is a stunning timepiece that features a minute repeater. But in this special-order configuration it gets even better.

Instead of an enamel dial with Roman numerals as found on the regular-production version, this has blackened Breguet numerals for a more elegant look.

Special orders like this are usually reserved for the brand’s best clients, so the original owner of this timepiece was part of that important circle. According to Sotheby’s, the consignor is the original owner who purchased the timepiece and has kept it locked away since. Thus, it is being sold in like-new condition.

The ref. 5078 is powered by the cal. R 27 PS, a self-winding minute repeater with classic gongs. With its elegant design and impressive complication, the Patek Philippe ref. 5078 is a true masterpiece of haute horologerie.

The ref. 5078 includes its original certificate, presentation box, and other accessories. It has an estimate of HK$2.6-4 million, or about US$332,000-510,000. Full lot details here.

Lot 2297: Patek Philippe ref. 5016P

The star of this auction is undoubtedly the Patek Philippe ref. 5016. First launched in 1994, the reference was considered one of the most complicated timepieces ever produced by Patek Philippe. And even though it’s been surpassed on complication count, it remains timelessly elegant.

As covered in an earlier review, the ref. 5016 is one of the brand’s few minute repeaters with this particular dial layout that has a retrograde date, full calendar, and moon phase. But because it is just 36 mm, the watch is eminently discreet and wearable.

The cal. RTO 27 PS QR (short for Repetition minutes, TOurbillon, Petit Seconde, Quantieme Retrograde) is both complicated and beautifully decorated.

On offer is the platinum variant with a black dial set featuring applied Breguet numerals.  It is also one of the last ref. 5016s produced, part of the final production run featuring movements bearing the Patek Philippe Seal.

This example was part of the estimated 200 pieces of the ref. 5016 produced during its 16-year run. The ref. 5016P has all its original packaging and accessories, and carries an estimate of HK$4.2-6 million, or about US$535,100-764,400.

You can find out more in the catalogue.

Preview and auction details

All lots will be on show during the preview in Hong Kong during the run-up to the auction. Both the preview exhibition and sale will happen at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (New Wing).

Preview
April 1-4

Auction
April 5, 10:00 am

For the full catalogue, as well as viewing appointments and online bidding, visit sotheby’s.com.

This was brought to you in collaboration with Sotheby’s.

Beginning in early April, Sotheby’s spring sale season in Hong Kong also marks the auctioneer’s 50th anniversary in Asia. One of the headline sales is Important Watches I, a 210-lot sale that spans notable complications, artisanal decoration, and of course, independent watchmaking.

The indie line up includes heavy hitters from the likes of F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, and Philippe Dufour, but also a few potential value buys such as the Christophe Claret Blackjack 21. And in the mix are some surprises, like the FVF Tourbillon Superligero.

The auction takes place on April 5, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here.

Lot 2101: Gérald Genta Fantasy Retro Mickey Mouse in 18k white gold

Gérald Genta was the first watch brand to place cartoon character in high-end watches, well before it became a fad amongst luxury watchmakers. The Fantasy collection depicted various Disney characters, usually combined with retrograde complications. Such watches are common enough that a few appear every auction season, but almost always in steel or occasionally yellow gold.

This example, surprisingly, is entirely in 18k white gold, case and bracelet, making it very uncommon. While it will pass for steel at a distance, the heft of the case and bracelet is a giveaway. 

The case is 36 mm, compact by today’s standards but the typical size for a men’s watch in the 1990s and early 2000s. And the dial is mother of pearl – Genta was a pioneer in exotic dial materials – with Mickey Mouse enjoying a game of golf.

Like the rest of the Fantasy Retro watches, this is mechanically straightforward. It’s powered by an ETA movement with a Genta module on top. It indicates the minutes with a golf club wielded by Mickey, while hours are in a window at four o’clock.

This watch retains the original warranty card dated 2004 and presentation box. It carries an estimate of HK$80,000-120,000, or about US$10,200-15,300. 

You can find out more in the catalogue.

Lot 2144: FVF Tourbillon Superligero

The story of Franc Vila is one of failure and redemption: the Spaniard founded his namesake brand in 2005, riding the wave of demand for independent watchmaking during the period. His big and bold timepieces covered in materials like carbon fibre were perfect for the era. But like many highfliers of the period, the Franc Vila brand folded in the ensuring bust.

But Mr Vila made a comeback in 2018 with FVF, short for “Franc Villa Founder”. With FVF Mr Vila revealed a more cohesive vision and a certainly more thoughtful watch, the Tourbillon Superligero. Only a handful have been made to date, but this example has emerged at Sotheby’s.

The Tourbillon Superligero is a a distinctive watch that is all about the extensively open-worked movement that’s been constructed in in a near-symmetrical manner. It features a one-minute flying tourbillon at six o’clock, a heptagonal roller showing the day of the week at 12 o’clock, and in between the two, a spherical day and night indicator. And the calibre boasts an impressive 100-hour power reserve.

The titanium case is constructed with minimal metal: it’s essentially a case middle with tall sapphire crystals on both sides, allowing for a panoramic view of the movement. And it also ensures the watch is lightweight despite the size.

Despite the modern aesthetics, the FVF1 movement inside is decorated surprisingly well. In fact, the finishing is comparable to that of established, high-end brands like Vacheron Constantin and Chopard. This is especially evident on the “V” shaped base plate, which boasts prominent bevelling.

The FVF Tourbillon Superligero is accompanied by a carry-on suitcase and has an estimate of HK$240,000-400,000, or about US$30,600-51,000. 

You can find out more in the catalogue.

Lot 2149: Gérald Genta Success Perpetual Calendar

While Gerald Genta is best known for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, the late designer was more adventurous when it came to designs for his own brand, often experimenting with shapes and materials.

But unsurprisingly, one of his bestselling creations for his namesake brand was another octagonal watch, known as the Success. Like much else he designed, the Success was inspired by his fascination with sailing and maritime exploration. Its bezel is reminiscent of a ship’s wheel, while the crown brings to mind a diving helmet.

In the context of modern design the Success is an unconventional shape and also small at just 35 mm in diameter. But it is interesting while being good value considering the materials and complication.

This example is a quintessential Success model, featuring a perpetual calendar with moon phase. Like most other Genta watches of the period, the dial was crafted from unusual materials, including lapis lazuli for the moon phase disc, mother-of-pearl for the calendar rings, and carbon fibre for the dial itself.

The case on the other hand is retro: 18k yellow gold case matched with a five-link bracelet also in yellow gold. This example features a solid case back that hides the ultra-thin F. Piguet automatic movement within.

The lot is offered without any accessories and has an estimate of HK$50,000-100,000, or about US$6,400-12,740. For more, visit the catalogue entry.

Lot 2158: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné

Greubel Forsey’s Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné is an ingenious reinterpretation of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention. By inclining the tourbillon at 25°, the movement is meant to average out the effects of gravity while the watch is in an ever-changing position due to it being on the wrist.

At the time of its launch in 2007, the inclined tourbillon was a bona fide novelty. To showcase the novelty, the case has a small windows on the case band to reveal the tourbillon profile. This example dates to 2010 and features a platinum case.

Though this is a later variant of the model, it retains almost all the design elements of the original, save for some additional decorative elements. The dark grey dial has the same layout as the original version, but gains the brand’s signature “micro” relief engraving with a ring around the dial that depicts the Greubel Forsey motto.

Inside is the cal. GF01, a manual-wind movement with twin, stacked barrels that provide a healthy power reserve of 72 hours. They incorporating a decoupling mechanism that prevents them from being overwound.

Like most Greubel Forsey movements, the calibre is characterised by frosted bridges, blued screws, and jewels in gold chatons. The German silver bridges show signs of oxidisation, but fortunately the watch is being sold with a complimentary servicing by Greubel Forsey (up to a retail value of CHF10,000).

The Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incline has an estimate of HK$1.2-2 million, or about US$153,000-255,000. Find out more in the catalogue.

Lot 2162: Christophe Claret Blackjack 21

Lot 2169: Urwerk Black Cobra UR-CC1

No history of contemporary independent watchmaking is complete without Urwerk. Established by watchmaking brothers Felix and Thomas Baumgartner and designer Martin Frei in 1997, the innovative brand has always focused on inventive time displays housed in a futuristic cases that resemble spacecraft.

One of its most notable complications was the UR-CC1 King Cobra, a reinterpretation of the Patek Philippe ref. 3414 “Cobra”, a forgotten experimental designed by Geneva jeweller Gilbert Albert and constructed by watchmaker Louis Cottier. The key feature of the Cobra was its linear time displays, which was reproduced on the UR-CC1.

The UR-CC1 indicates the time with a pair of linear displays made up of retrograde cylinders for the hours and minutes.

The display is driven by a toothed segment at the end of a rack that slides up and down via a vertical triple cam. Each cam rotates the minute cylinder for one 60-minute cycle. The cylinder then jumps back to its original position courtesy of the extra-flat linear spring. This jump activates the jump of the hour cylinder, advancing it forward by one step.

Seconds are indicated by a spiral hand

The underside of the minute cylinder is visible on the back

The example on offer is the Black Cobra, a variant of the UR-CC1 with a AlTiN-coated steel case. This watch is fitted to a matching bracelet that, according to Sotheby’s, was a special order by the previous owner. It is also accompanied by its box and certificate.

Released in 2009, the UR-CC1 cost almost US$300,000, making it prohibitively expensive at the time. Now this has an estimate of HK$1-2 million, or about US$127,400-255,000. For more, visit the catalogue entry.

Lot 2177: Philippe Dufour Simplicity 34 mm

Widely considered the greatest movement finisher ever, Philippe Dufour’s most recognisable watch is the Simplicity. Much loved for its gorgeous movement decoration that has yet to be rivalled, the watch has clean, elegant lines.

This example is pink gold and 34 mm, giving it a warm, vintage feel. It has a silvered guilloche dial featuring Arabic numerals at the quarters.

Though 34 mm is small by current standards, traditionalists often seek out the Simplicity 34 mm, since it is both the size worn by Dufour himself and also the rarer of the two sizes (the other being 37 mm).

Numbered “14”, the present example was delivered in 2002, making it one of the earliest known examples from the original run of 200 watches. It includes the original certificate and wood box. The estimate is HK$4-6 million, or about US$510,000-764,400.

Full lot details here.

Lot 2180: F.P. Journe Octa Automatique Lune “France-China 50”

F.P. Journe is now as hot as an independent watchmaker can be, with early examples of his trademark complications, namely the Resonance and Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite, achieving record prices at auction.

But the brands still has a few rare but overlooked model, such as this Octa Automatique Lune made to commemorate the golden jubilee of diplomatic relations between France and China in 2014.

Just 50 of these were made, all featuring a dial in dark blue, an uncommon shade for F.P. Journe. And the dial gains a bit of colour from the commemorative emblem discreetly positioned next to the logo at three o’clock.

The emblem is made up of the names of both countries, each written in their respective languages, with a red box resembling a traditional seal sitting just above. The red square contains”50周年”, or “50th anniversary” in Chinese.

Housed in a 40 mm platinum case, this Octa Automatique Lune is powered by the cal. 1300.3 automatic movement found in the standard model.

This watch includes with its wooden box along with the guarantee certificate. It has an estimate of HK$800,000-1 million, or around US$102,000-153,000.

Full lot details here.

Lot 2307: Richard Mille Bonbon RM 37-01 “Cerise”

Less complication and artisanal than most of the prior picks, but certainly more whimsical than even the Genta Mickey, is the RM 37-01 “Cerise”. Part of the the Bonbon collection launched in 2019, the Cerise is typical Richard Mille – fun, loud, and expensive.

The Bonbon collection was a line of ladies’ watches centred on candy and fruit-themed motifs that was conceived to broaden the brand’s reach to include a younger, female demographic. French for “cherry”, Cerise has candies on the dial and hot pink strap.

Like other models in the Bonbon collection, the Cerise features a semi-skeletonised dial with appliqués taking the form of candies and fruits. The appliqués are naturally hand-painted in acrylic and varnished with a “powdered sugar” lacquered finish.

The Cerise is powered by the CRMA1, an in-house automatic movement, while the case is two types of carbon composite – black on the front and cherry-coloured on the back.

Accompanied by only its presentation box, this RM37-01 is numbered “17/30”. It has an estimate of HK$2.4-3.2 million, or about US$306,000-408,000.

For more, check out the catalogue.

Preview and auction details

All lots will be on show during the preview in Hong Kong during the run-up to the auction. Both the preview exhibition and sale will happen at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (New Wing).

Preview
April 1-4

Auction
April 5, 10:00 am

For the full catalogue, as well as viewing appointments and online bidding, visit sotheby’s.com.

This was brought to you in collaboration with Sotheby’s.

A historically important Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 with full calendar and moon phase will soon be offered at Phillips, but the news isn’t so much about the watch itself but the story behind it.

While extraordinarily rare in itself, the ref. 96 quantieme lune is exceptional for its provenance: its original owner was Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last emperor of China and heir to a 4,000-year old imperial throne. As the final ruler of the Qing Dynasty, Puyi was arguably a hapless individual overcome by circumstances and overtaken by history – a life dramatised in the Bernardo Bertolucci’s film The Last Emperor – leaving him with a mixed reputation and legacy.

The ref. 96, however, makes clear his appreciation of mechanical timepieces. Yet this long-lost imperial watch is extremely flawed on its face. But the heavily-aged dial, seemingly severely damaged, also echoes the tale of Puyi’s brief reign, a turbulent time when an empire met its end and a feudal dynasty was transformed into a modern nation.

Image – PaddleWaves

An Emperor’s timekeeper

Ascending the throne at age two in 1908, Puyi was destined for a life of absolute power. But shortly after, the child Emperor witnessed the collapse of Imperial China and his family’s four century-old dynasty in the wake of the Xinhai Revolution of 1911 that gave birth to the Republic of China.

In 1932, perhaps unwitting or naive, he became the titular ruler of Manchukuo, the puppet state of Manchuria that was controlled by Japan. Despite being a figurehead with no real power, Puyi’s dozen-year tenure as Emperor of Manchukuo ensured his historical legacy would forever be controversial.

Puyi

This ref. 96 was delivered in October 1937, meaning Puyi received it during his time as ruler of Manchukuo. The watch was certainly amongst the most expensive watches in the world at the time, making it an unsurprising timepiece for a man who no doubt still harboured imperial ambitions. The watch also reflects the fact that Puyi was the only Chinese emperor who was a watch collector in the modern sense; several of his other watches and clocks are on display in the Palace Museum in Shenyang.

Puyi’s fate after his spell as ruler of Manchukuo was ignominious for a man who once ruled China. After Japan’s defeat in 1945 and the fall of Manchukuo, Puyi was imprisoned in the Soviet Union, before eventually being repatriated back to Communist China.

The former emperor had no children and much of what he owned was dissipated as he went from one prison to another before spending his later life as a free man living in modest circumstance.

By the time he died in 1967, the ref. 96 and his other fine possessions must have been a distant memory. Like most of what he owned, the ref. 96 was lost for decades.

Lost and found

I first encountered this watch in 2019 when it was offered for sale by a dealer in Europe, having been in the same family since Puyi left a Soviet prison decades ago. The family were the descendants of a Soviet official who served as Puyi’s translator during his years in captivity.

When he left Soviet custody, Puyi gave the watch to the official, whether willingly or under duress is unknown. Alongside the watch, the official also received several of Puyi’s belongings, including a fan bearing a hand-written inscription by Puyi, books, and watercolour paintings by Puyi and his brother. (The watch has been consigned to Phillips by the individual who subsequently purchased the watch and its accompanying items, and not by the family of the Soviet official.)

The ref. 96 along with Puyi’s fan. Image – Phillips

It’s almost a century since Puyi acquired the ref. 96, so the watch bears obvious signs of wear. Fortunately, the case appears to be in unrestored condition – “unpolished” as some enthusiasts would say – and its edges remain sharp.

Then the obvious question: what happened to the dial? At first glance it appears to be extreme aging, but Puyi’s diary reveals the full story.

Image – PaddleWaves

A curious emperor

Puyi writes that when he received the watch, he was curious as to whether the dial was pure gold. He summoned an attendant and ordered him to scrape off the varnish and silver plating to reveal the base material of the dial. After the attendant had worked through the lower half of the dial, Puyi realised to his disappointment that the dial was merely brass, so he asked the attendant to stop.

While such damage to a dial would ordinarily discourage a buyer, the amusing story behind it adds a tangible and personal connection to the former emperor, a tangible connection that is missing from most “celebrity” watches, even ones with well-documented provenance.

Image – PaddleWaves

The long road to historical importance

Despite its damaged appearance, the dial has a peculiar appeal. It is instantly recognisable and radiates an enigmatic charm in person.

More broadly, this watch is the ultimate example of a historically important timepiece. The provenance adds tremendous mystique to a very rare watch. Even Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman”, John Lennon’s Patek Philippe ref. 2499, and even the Omega Speedmaster that went missing after the 1969 Moon landing cannot compare.

That’s simple due to the documented personal connection to Puyi. The watch is a vivid, physical expression of a curious man who was only emperor briefly yet never learnt to live like an ordinary person. The link between Puyi’s personality and the watch makes it incredibly special.

Image – Phillips

And the watch is important for wider cultural reasons. The fact that the former owner was Puyi instantly sets it apart from other watches owned or worn by notable historical personalities, who are mostly Western.

For centuries, practically all of the world’s best known watchmakers have come from a handful of mostly Western countries, with the most obvious being Switzerland, but also Germany, Britain, the United States.

Unsurprisingly, all of the most valuable timepieces to date have associations with the Western culture. For instance, the four-minute tourbillon pocket watch made by the A.-L. Breguet for King George III and the Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona worn by Paul Newman himself. That will soon change with Puyi’s ref. 96 going under the hammer.

A very different 96

Putting aside its historical significance, this ref. 96 is important in itself. The watch is undoubtedly important in the history of Patek Philippe and arguably important in the wider history of watchmaking.

To start with, this ref. 96 was the first-ever serially-produced wristwatch with a complication. Prior to this, Patek Philippe already made complicated wristwatches, including perpetual calendars and split-seconds chronographs, but all were unique creations, essentially custom watches for specific individual clients. Eight examples of the ref. 96 calendar are known, with one sharing the exact same configuration as Puyi’s watch.

As for the watch itself, it is unexpectedly diminutive. The case measures about 30 mm, a size that underscores the movement’s mechanical sophistication. With neither computer-aided design nor modern production equipment, the movement is a marvel considering its size and complexity.

Crack open the case back and the impressive, old-school finishing is evident: wide Côtes de Genève on bridges that sport chamfered edges, an elegant finish on all the gears, and a barrel ratchet wheel with wolves teeth. There is no doubt that this was one of the finest examples of watchmaking of its era, a watch fit for an emperor.

Puyi’s ref. 96 will be on display at Phillips’ new office in the West Kowloon Cultural District from March 18-31. It will then go on tour around the world before being offered for sale sometime in the future.

The author is the publisher of PaddleWaves, a Chinese-language watch magazine.

Le Concours de Complexité is probably the smallest watch auction ever conducted by Phillips. Taking place online from January 13-20, the sale comprises just 11 watches. But all 11 are F.P. Journe watches, including important models like a Sonnerie Souveraine, Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium, and Centigraphe Anniversaire. So while the quantity is modest, the quality and value are high.

And the watches all come with impeccable provenance. The former owner is a prominent businessman from Southeast Asia who is active real estate development. He purchased most of them brand new and has clearly kept them in immaculate condition.

Le Concours de Complexité begins on January 13 and will run until January 20. Bidding and the catalogue can be accessed on Phillips.com.

Below we round up a trio of highlights from the sale.

The Sonnerie Souveraine

Lot 8001 – Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium

Synonymous with the independent watchmaker, the Resonance is correctly regarded as one of the most ingenious creations in contemporary watchmaking. Francois-Paul Journe was the first to implement the concept in a wristwatch, having been inspired by 18th century clocks operating on the principle of resonance.

This example is one of the Ruthenium series that was launched in 2001. The name comes from the fact that the dial and brass movement bridges are plated in ruthenium, giving them a dark grey finish. Notably, the Ruthenium editions are the last F.P. Journe models to utilise brass movement bridges, which were then replaced by bridges of 18k red gold.

This Résonance Ruthenium is numbered “2/99”. It has an estimate of HK$1.2-2.2 million, or US$150,000-280,000.

Lot 8005 – Sonnerie Souveraine with custom dial

The star of this auction and certainly the most valuable lot is the Sonnerie Souveraine. The Sonnerie Souveraine was the most complicated F.P. Journe wristwatch at the time of its launch in 2006 (and since superseded by the Astronomic), but this example goes one better with its black dial. Only about 50 of the Sonnerie Souveraine were made over its production run of 13 years, most of them with the standard grey dial.

Interestingly, while the black dial might imply this is a Black Label edition, it is not. Instead, it features a custom dial made expressly for the owner of the collection. Even more interesting is the fact that is is the watch was first delivered to the owner with a dark blue dial as indicated on the certificate. But according to Phillips, the owner subsequently had the blue dial replaced with this black dial.

The Sonnerie Souveraine Black Label has an estimate of HK$2.8-5 million, or US$360,000-650,000.

Lot 8007 – Chronomètre à Résonance “RQ”

Made to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Resonance, the Resonance “RQ” is the ultimate evolution of the model in technical terms. As we detailed in our introductory story, the new calibre relies on a single, large barrel driving twin gear trains, each having its own remontoir d’egalite constant-force mechanism.

This example has a platinum case and pink gold dial, one of the more uncommon combinations for the model. The Chronomètre à Résonance “20th anniversary” has an estimate of HK$1.2-2.2 million, or US$150,000-280,000.

Preview and auction details

All lots are available for preview by appointment only.

Auction
Online bidding opens on January 13 at 7:00 pm, and closes on January 20 at 7:00 pm

All times and dates are local to Hong Kong (GMT+8).

For the full catalogue, as well as viewing appointments and online bidding, visit phillips.com.

I have always been fascinated by the drama that unfolds at a live watch auction – the excitement, the applause that accompanies a record hammer price, and the occasional silence when there are no bids to be found made. As a collector, the drama that unfolds adds colour to the hobby and adds another dimension to the business. 

I had long tuned in for the livestream of auctions since I purchased my first vintage timepiece almost a decade ago. I followed the blockbuster results in the salerooms of the three leading auction houses, Phillips, Sotheby’s and Christie’s, but I had yet to experience being in the room until my outing to the recent fall sales in Hong Kong. 

Watching the gavel fall on screen

I knew I had to attend a live auction after watching the Sotheby’s Geneva auction that took place in December 2014. On my laptop I saw the sale of the Henry Graves Supercomplication unfold, when the man with the red tie, whom I later discovered to be Aurel Bacs, won the watch for US$24 million. 

A few years later, while commuting to my first job out of college, I caught the exact moment when Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona sold for a record at Phillips’ in New York. More recently, I tuned in for the sale of the F.P. Journe FFC Blue at Only Watch last year. Even though I only watched these sales on a screen, it is clear that watch auctions at the highest level are almost a competitive sport, with bidders from across the world or the aisle locked in a duel until the hammer comes down.

The sale of Paul Newman’s own Rolex Daytona in 2017 at Phillips New York

The saleroom in Hong Kong

When the Hong Kong government announced the lifting of most pandemic restrictions in September 2022, namely the mandatory hotel quarantine, I embarked on my first overseas trip in two years – perfectly timed to coincide with the fall auction season in the city.

As soon as I landed, I dropped by my hotel for a quick change of clothes before heading to the J.W. Marriott where Phillips was staging the two-day Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV. When I entered the Phillips saleroom, I was struck not by the crowds but by the lack of them. With the removal of many pandemic curbs, I had been expecting the crowds to be out. Only a few seats in at the front of the saleroom were occupied and most of the few bidders in the room sat at the round tables at the back, leafing through the auction catalogue while watching the sale.

My vantage point from the front of the room, with head of department Thomas Perazzi at the rostrum

The thin attendance was due in part to the fact that some restrictions on inbound travellers had yet to be lifted; the Hong Kong government only did away with them in December. Instead, most bidders were on the phone or online. The crowd, in fact, was the two dozen or so Phillips staff members manning the telephones. 

Yet the energy in the room was palpable, but in a measured and patient manner – it was clear that all bidders were determined to get the best deal possible. Bids came in from all over the room, and the auctioneer had to work hard to keep up with the pace. While there were a few moments of silence as the sale progressed, the room erupted into a frenzy of activity when it came to popular lots, mostly from the likes of Patek Philippe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and even independents like F.P. Journe. The crowd also fluctuated throughout the sale, thinning out with less interesting lots and gaining in number as major lots came up.

A majority of the bidding came through the international phone banks at the J.W. Marriott. Image – Phillips.

While the top lot of the sale both in terms of prestige and value was undoubtedly the yellow gold Patek Philippe ref. 2499 – the room was probably the most full when this was sold – my personal highlight was the Philippe Dufour Simplicity.

While this was not the first time I saw one in person, the Simplicity has always stood out for me as something truly special. As soon as the lot opened at a mere HK$1 million (about US$130,000), two bidders jumped into the ring. One was an Asian gentleman in the room and the other a phone bidder. Even though it was only the two of them bidding, the price rapidly escalated within a matter of minutes.

The jousting over the Simplicity continued until the phone bidder triumphed with HK$5 million (about US$640,000) and the gentleman in the room waved the white flag. The hammer came down to applause in the room. The total bill for the buyer was HK$6.9 million with fees, equivalent to US$886,000.

The Simplicity at Phillips, a 37 mm example in white gold. Image – Phillips

But the fireworks did not end there. About an hour after the Simplicity, it was the turn of a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 2508 fitted to a fine, yellow-gold Gay Frères bracelet. It was a simple watch with a modest estimate starting at just HK$95,000 (about US$12,000).

I have to admit I was surprised by the mind-boggling result of HK$756,000 including fees (about US$97,000). By most measures, this was not one of the top lots before the sale and it was barely on my radar.

The ref. 2508 encapsulates auctions perfectly: you can never predict what will happen at a live auction. Watching the bidding war over the ref. 2508 was a real eye-opener. It showed me how passionate and determined collectors can be and illustrates their willingness to pay top, top dollar for something special. And it also reveals that even a seemingly under-the-radar watch will not go unnoticed by keen eyes.

The ref. 2508 and its vintage bracelet

A sense of camaraderie

My first live watch auction was a proper introduction to the world of high-end watch collecting. I got to see some of the world’s best timepieces up close. Even though the turnout was sparse and the atmosphere casual, the buzz in the room was discernible; I could feel the excitement.

But it also showed that the hobby is about people and the scene is a small one. From the handshakes and smiles I could tell that many of the people in the room knew each other. There was a sense of camaraderie among the participants along with a healthy dose of competitive spirit, even between Phillips colleagues bidding against each other on behalf of clients. 

I realised that a major watch auction is not simply a sale of watches; it is a social event where people come to mingle, network, and show off their latest acquisitions. I didn’t raise my paddle and came away empty handed, but I was happy to sit back and watch buyers battle it out for the top lots. Ultimately, I left with a better understanding of watch auctions and a greater appreciation for the beauty of the watches themselves.

Dresden-based Lang & Heyne is a German independent watchmaker that makes just 100 to 150 timepieces per year. Created to mark the ninth year of the partnership with its retailer in Hong Kong, its latest release is the Friedrich II Remontoir “The Lavish Attic Edition”.

If the watch sounds familiar, that’s because the prototype of the limited edition was sold at Phillips in May for HK$819,000, or just over US$105,000. Now it returns as a serial-production timepiece in a limited edition of 36 watches – nine pieces each in stainless steel, white gold, rose gold and platinum.

Lang & Heyne (L&H) was founded in 2001 by watchmakers Marco Lang, Mirko Heyne, and Lothar Zieger. All three founders have since left the brand, most recently Mr Lang, who left to set up his eponymous brand. Their departure has allowed the brand to evolve into less traditional watches like the Friedrich II Remontoir for the Lavish Attic, which has a sporty aesthetic and titanium movement bridges.

Initial thoughts

I was intrigued when I came across the prototype offered at Phillips. A watch with a constant-force escapement is something you don’t often see (even if brands like F.P. Journe have made it a speciality). That, combined with the stark black dial, steel bracelet, and sporty design, made it an unusual proposition.

As a serially-produced watch, albeit a limited edition, the Lavish Attic edition retains the key elements that give it a distinctive look, namely the glossy, black enamel dial with oversized numerals that makes the watch pop from a distance.

The Friedrich II Remontoir “Prototype 00” was sold at Phillips’ Hong Kong sale in May 2022

Since the last cofounder of L&H, Marco Lang, departed in 2019, the brand has shed the old-school pocket watch styling that once defined it, which no doubt caused some concern amongst its traditionalist fans. Last year, the brand debuted the Hektor, a sports watch with an integrated bracelet that certainly caters to the prevailing fad for such watches, and well, we can’t blame them for it since practically everyone was doing the same.

The new Friedrich II Remontoir may be a sporty watch, but it is far more sophisticated than the Hektor – reflecting the eye for detail of the Lavish Attic and its founder, Piano Chow. It is beautifully constructed and traditional in outline but executed with contemporary details and materials. And particular attention has been paid to legibility without compromising style, an achievement seldom seen in most watches.

One weakness is paradoxically the technical highlight of the movement – the remontoir. It only operates for the majority of the 42-hour power reserve – at least 24 hours, according to L&H – but not all of it. As a result, the remontoir does compensate for excess torque when the mainspring is fully wound but not for the lower torque as the mainspring winds down.

A wristwatch with a remontoir escapement from an independent watchmaker is usually expensive, but the Lavish Attic edition comes at the lower end of the price spectrum as such things go, starting at €59,700 in steel.

Classical yet contemporary

While the Lavish Attic edition feels like a contemporary timepiece, it is classical at its core. The dial echoes the pocket watch-inspired aesthetic that the brand was founded on, but with a few twists. It’s black fired enamelled with oversized Arabic numerals, giving it a look reminiscent of dashboard instruments in vintage sports cars. And the seconds register has a crosshair and red accents, controlling the sporty instrument aesthetic.

The hour numerals are all white save for “9”, which is in red to indicate the time that The Lavish Attic has been repressing L&H

Notably, the dial is also a two-disc construction, where the seconds sub-dial is a separate piece soldered to the dial disc. Instead of the traditional method where individual dial parts are enamelled and fired, the discs that make up the dial are produced with a novel technique where a block of enamel is thinly sliced into discs.

The dial also features faux-vintage Super Luminova in ivory that’s matched with luminous, lancet-shaped hands for nighttime legibility.

A uniquely German remontoir

But the highlight of the Lavish Attic edition is the remontoir in the cal. VI-I. An upgraded version of the cal. VI first introduced in Friedrich II, the movement has a constant-force escapement that relies on a small secondary spring at the end of the gear train.

This spring stores and releases a constant amount of energy every second to keep the escapement going in a consistent manner. Because the remontoir works in one-second steps, it also drives the deadbeat seconds.

However, the remontoir only functions for a period of the movement’s running time – at least 24 hours according to the brand. That’s because it requires a minimal amount of torque to operate in an optimal manner, and presumably the mainspring torque drops below that after a certain period. As a result, the remontoir only deals with the excess torque from a fully wound mainspring and does not make up for the drop in energy as the movement winds down.

What sets the cal. VI-I apart are the bridges in titanium instead of brass. While titanium bridges are not unique, they are certainly novel. Here it was the metal of choice for its lightness.

Because the properties of titanium mean that the traditional method of frosting is not feasible, L&H turned to ceramic bead blasting for the bridges. The rest of the movement, however, is finished the old-school way, including heat blueing for screws, polished teeth on the winding wheels, and hand engraving on the base plate. And in a nod to 19th century German watches, the balance cock is hand engraved with a fine floral motif.

Key facts and price

Friedrich II Remontoir “The Lavish Attic Edition”

Diameter: 39.2 mm
Height: 10.7 mm
Material: Stainless steel, white gold, rose gold or platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. VI-I
Functions: Hours, minutes, and deadbeat seconds with hacking function
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 18,000 oscillations per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Alligator strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: Nine pieces per metal, total of 36
Availability: Via pre-order at The Lavish Attic in Hong Kong
Price: €59,700 in stainless steel, €66,700 in white gold, €63,900 in rose gold, €74,500 in platinum

For more, visit thelavishattic.com.

Going on the block at Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction is the Patek Philippe ref. 5004J “Michael Ovitz”. It’s lot 2520 and one of the watches from The Triazza Collection, an impressive accumulation of watches owned by a prominent Hong Kong businessman.

The collection is heavy on Patek Philippe. Amongst the other timepieces in the collection is the Patek Philippe tourbillon pocket watch that won first prize at the Geneva Observatory in 1931 (which is also being offered in the same auction) and the Patek Philippe ref. 2499 that once belonged to Eric Clapton (but is not for sale, yet).

“MSO” – Michael Steven Ovitz

The “MSO” initials on this ref. 5004J instantly reveal it was one of the many, I would two dozen at least, special-order watches that Patek Philippe made for Michael Ovitz starting in 2011.

Often described as a “super agent”, Mr Ovitz cofounded Creative Artists Agency (CAA), once the dominant talent agency in Hollywood. After a short-lived spell at Disney, he’s now known for his impressive art collection, some of which is on show in his equally impressive home in California.

Though the reason behind Patek Philippe’s accommodation of Mr Ovitz is not publicly known, industry lore has it that the watches were an expression of gratitude by the Sterns after Mr Ovitz assisted them in a significant way. Mr Ovitz has only commented on these watches publicly once, in a 2021 article in Robb Report:

“It was the first time Ovitz, who has been collecting for 35 years, placed a bespoke order, but his goal was ambitious: He requested several different references, each in a variety of metals, with one-of-a-kind dials.

His regret is not foreseeing two problems. The first was misunderstanding his own psychology: Too afraid he’d bang up his special treasures by wearing them, he never even took some of them out of the packaging.

‘My second mistake was that I didn’t ask them for an exclusive on the design,’ says Ovitz. ‘So I saw a lot of [Patek] watches showing up with my design, and I didn’t want that. I wanted unique pieces.’ 

Ovitz’s response has been to part company with some of the Pateks, recognizable for his ‘MSO’ initials discreetly placed at six o’clock.”

Many, if not most, of the “MSO” watches have emerged for sale on the secondary market, including special variants of the refs. 3940, 3970, 5050, and 5059.

Like many most special-order Patek Philippe watches, the “MSO” editions were probably unique, though similar enough to other special-order watches that one might be mistaken for another. Notably, many of the “MSO” watches resemble the special-order watches made for Eric Clapton a few years prior, particularly in the use of Roman or Breguet-style numerals and leaf-shaped hands.

Black and gold

This is actually the second time I was looking at this exact watch; the first time was when it was sold at Phillips in 2018. It was one of the highlights of the 2018 sale for me, and four years later it remains a highly appealing watch. It is a good looking watch in black and gold, a high-contrast combination that isn’t novel but instantly striking and usually attractive.

As with most special-order Patek Philippe watches, this ref. 5004J is only set apart by its dial, which has a lot going on. Although the dial is crowded to the point that almost every available space has been filled, the design manages to have enough clarity that it works well, both in terms of visual appeal and legibility.

The dial differs from the dial of the standard model in almost all respects. For one, it has a tachymeter on its periphery, instead of a plain seconds track on the standard dial. And it has another hallmark of special-order ref. 5004s that frequently have the 12 o’clock marker as either a Roman “XII” or Breguet numeral.

Intriguingly, the dial also has double dot markers. The hour markers are gold spheres, while the minute scale has round luminous markers every five minutes. While that might seem redundant, it somehow works well here.

The reason for the luminous dots on the minute track are presumably to match the luminous hands, but probably also done to distinguish the “MSO” edition of the model from the similar ref. 5004s done for Eric Clapton.

Dial aside, the rest of the watch is identical to the standard model.

The case consequently retains the same dimensions, which means it is small and very thick. The case is a little over 36 mm in diameter but almost 15 mm tall, a necessity to accommodate the height of the split-seconds mechanism.

And of course the movement is the CHR 27-70 Q, the manual-wind calibre based on the Lemania 2310. Because the split-seconds mechanism was an add-on to the base movement, the calibre never had neither the robustness nor reliability of its successor, which is an in-house movement developed to accommodate a split-seconds from the very beginning. But the CHR 27-70 Q has its fans, largely because it is no longer available, making it something of a historical artefact.

The first was in 2018 when the watch was sold at Phillips for HK$2.92 million including fees, equivalent to about US$374,000 – a big number for a ref. 5004J at the time. Now it’s back on the block with an estimate of HK$5.00-10.0 million, or about US$630,000-1.20 million, an even bigger number but unsurprising given recent sale prices for special-order Patek Philippe chronographs.

The ref. 5004J is lot 2520 in Christie’s Important Watches auction (lots 2306-2523) that begins at 1 pm on November 27 – the catalogue is available here.

It’s followed by the second session of the auction (lots 2201-2282) offering watches from The Champion Collection at 7 pm – see the full catalogue here.

Having already covered highlights in two categories – independent watchmaking and interesting complications – in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, we now focus on a crowd favourite when it comes to complications, the chronograph.

We look at eight chronographs that stand out in The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV. They range from an esoteric Patek Philippe made for an English football club owned by a Thai duty-free shopping magnate to and a fine specimen of the mythical Omega Speedmaster “MIR-90 90 Days” that spent three months on the Russian space station.

Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found here.

The Patek Philippe ref. 5960/1A-011 made in 2016 to commemorate Leicester City becoming Premier League champions for the first time

Lot 813: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph, first-generation “Meter” dial

Since its introduction in 1999 as Lange’s first chronograph, the Datograph is of the German brand’s most iconic timepieces. Even independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour famously fawns over the movement – he owns an example in rose gold – that is a masterpiece of impeccable craftsmanship and attention to detail.

This example is a first-generation model with a 39 mm platinum case and a glossy black dial, arguably the quintessential Datograph.

Keen-eyed collectors will notice “METER” on the tachymeter scale, indicating this is one of the earliest examples of the model. The warranty confirms that with a 2001 purchase date. Lange began using “METERS” for the scale in 2005, which lasted until the model’s discontinuation in 2012.

But of course the star of the show is the L951.1, a hand-wind chronograph movement with both an instantaneous minute counter as well as a flyback, which allows the chronograph to be reset without stopping it – a useful feature for anyone else who needs to record sequential elapsed times in quick succession.

More than the technical features of the movement, its appeal lies in the visuals – the colours, materials, and depth give it an appearance practically unmatched even two decades later.

Accompanied by the original box and papers, this Datograph has an estimate of HK$320,000-630,000, or US$41,000-80,800. For more, visit the catalogue entry.

Lot 833: Patek Philippe ref. 5960/1A “Leicester City”

While the eyes of the world are now focused on the World Cup in Qatar, this watch tells another story of champion football (or soccer if you’re American). It was conceived to commemorate the achievement of a once-struggling English football club clinching its first-ever championship in the English Premier League.

In the 2015-2016 season, Leicester City Football Club pulled off one of the greatest sporting upsets of all time by winning the Premier League. It was a remarkable achievement for a team that had been languishing near the bottom of the league table for most of the previous decade, and started the season with bookmakers offering odds of 1-5,000 that it would win.

But win it did. And to celebrate this landmark achievement, the club’s billionaire owner, the late Vichai Srivaddhanaprabha, commissioned Patek Philippe to create a limited edition of the ref. 5960/1A that gifted to the club’s staff, players, and coach.

The founder of King Power, the largest duty-free retailer in Thailand, Srivaddhanaprabha was also known to be a watch collector and a client of Patek Philippe. He bought the club in 2010 but tragically passed away in 2018 when his helicopter crashed as it was leaving the Leicester City stadium.

Srivaddhanaprabha’s creation was based on the standard ref. 5960/1A. It has the same 40 mm steel case fitted with the distinctive “beads of rice” bracelet as well as the same white dial. But its hands are unique to this edition and rendered in the club’s colours of blue and yellow.

On its reverse, the transparent sapphire back is printed with a fox, the emblem of Leicester City. Just as with the standard model, this ref. 5960/1A is powered by the cal. CH 28-520 C movement has a power reserve of 55 hours.

According to Phillips, the size of the Leicester City edition is unknown, but it is known that the ref. 5960 was produced in at least thirteen serially-produced variants, with the Leicester City edition being one of the most uncommon. Notably, this is the first example to be offered at an international auction.

Considering its unusual backstory and rarity, the ref. 5960/1A “Leicester City” has an estimate above a standard model, HK$600,000-1.2 million, or US$76,400-154,000.

For more, visit the catalogue entry.

Lot 844: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar

Introduced in 2013, the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is notable for being one of the few watches to combine a rattrapante chronograph with a perpetual calendar. Featuring a pocket watch aesthetic typical of the 1815 line, it’s a classically styled that will please traditionalists. And because it’s not quite as well known as its more famous cousins like the Datograph or Zeitwerk, it is something of a value buy on the secondary market.

Though the back you can admire the L101.1 comprising 631 parts with the typical Lange hand finishing and hand engraving. Notably, the calibre comes from noble lineage: it is derived from the movement in the top-of-the-line Tourbograph, so the technically-minded will see a resemblance between the two.

As is the norm for traditionally constructed split-seconds chronographs, this movement has double column wheels. One controls the chronograph, and the other the rattrapante function that is activated by a button at ten o’clock. Added on top is the perpetual calendar module that is set via recessed pushers in the case.

This example is in excellent condition with minimal wear and is accompanied by its presentation box and papers.

With a retail price of US$189,000 at launch, the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is something of a value proposition when new, given that the equivalent from Patek Philippe costs 50% more. But here it becomes even more attractive with an estimate of HK$640,000-1.28 million, or US$82,100-164,000.

For more, visit the catalogue entry.

Lot 897: Omega Speedmaster Professional ref. ST145.022 “MIR-90 90 Days”

Undoubtedly one of the highlights of the sale for its historical provenance, the Speedmaster “MIR-90 Days” was one of a handful of Moonwatches that flew in space for 90 consecutive days.

On December 2, 1990, the crew members of the Russian Soyuz TM-11, cosmonauts Viktor Afanasyec and Musa Manarov, along with Toyohiro Akiyama, a Japanese broadcast journalist, blasted off on the 11th expedition to the Russian space station known as Mir (Russian for “peace”).

Along for the trip were ten Omega Speedmasters that were intended as an experiment to determine the functionality of a chronograph and its components after a extended, continuous periods in zero gravity. These timepieces were first delivered to the European Space Agency (ESA) in the late 1980s before being sent on the expedition.

Although it went to space, this is still a typical Speedmaster Professional on the front with the distinctive “twisted” lugs and tachymeter bezel. Only on the back does it tell the full story with an engraved dedication that reads “90 DAYS FLIGHT QUALIFIED – SPACELAB MIR DEC.90-MAR. 91.”

This watch includes the original box bearing a medallion of the Soviet space agency. It’s in “new old stock” condition, having been in storage for almost 32 years. It has notably crisp lines on the case that are practically as sharp as they were when it left the factory.

The Speedmaster “MIR-90” is numbered “9/10” and is accompanied by an extract from the Omega Museum confirming its production in 1990. It has an estimate of HK$620,000-1.25 million or about US$79,500-160,000.

For more, visit the lot entry here.

Lot 963: F.P. Journe LineSport Centigraphe 

A technical virtuoso whose creations have garnered acclaim, François-Paul Journe is best known for his classically-styled watches with inventive complications, namely the Chronomètre à Résonance and Tourbillon Souverain. But he has long applied his brand of watchmaking to sports watches with the launch of the aluminium Centigraphe in 2011.

This example on offer is the latest generation of F.P. Journe’s trademark sports chronograph that does without the rubber caps on the bracelet links that characterised the earlier versions. It’s in rose gold, case and bracelet, and a large 44 mm in diameter, but with a sleek profile that’s typical of the brand.

As with all versions of the Centigraphe, it has the signature lightning seconds at 10 o’clock, featuring a hand that completes one revolution every second. This, in theory, allows the wearer to measure elapsed times of up to 1/100th of a second. 

And the chronograph is started, stopped, and reset with the “rocker” pusher at two o’clock that was designed to allow for quicker activation of the button.

Like its counterparts in titanium and platinum, the rose gold Centigraphe is powered by the manual-wind cal. 1506. It has a respectable 80-hour power reserve, but because the lightning seconds chronograph is powered by the same mainspring, the power reserve drops to 24 hours with the chronograph is running nonstop.

Notably, only the precious metal versions of the Centigraphe have the movement base plate and bridges in red gold. The titanium model, on the other hand, has them in aluminium for lightness.

If one is looking for a fascinating sports chronograph with a unique design. this should be on your radar. Accompanied by the original box and papers, the F.P. Journe LineSport Centigraphe is offered in a like new condition. It carries an estimate of HK$630,000-1.25 million, or about US$80,800-160,000.

Full lot details here.

Lot 968: Audemars Piguet Edward Piguet Chronograph ref. 25925BC

Two of the best value propositions in our selection are both Audemars Piguet (AP) chronographs, though unsurprisingly neither is a Royal Oak. The first is an Edward Piguet Chronograph, an example of AP’s rectangular form watch that was in production until the early 2000s.

Named after one of the brand’s founders, the Edward Piguet was an attempt to break out of the Royal Oak stereotype, but ultimately unsuccessful commercially. But two decades on – and at much less than its original retail price – the Edward Piguet looks pretty good.

While it doesn’t have the iconic status of the Cartier Tank or Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, it is an appeal, thoughtful design and in its chronograph variant, equipped with a fine movement.

The Edward Piguet has a slightly curved case with stepped sides that give it an Art Deco feel. This example is in 18k white gold with a semi-glossy black dial decorated with guilloche. Interestingly the dial has an unusual combination of both Arabic numerals and tablet-shaped markers for the hours.

Importantly, it is powered by the cal. 2385, which is actually a Frederic Piguet cal. 1185. A slim, sophisticated calibre, the cal. 1185 is an integrated, column-wheel chronograph movement that was also used by Vacheron Constantin, Blancpain, and Breguet.

Looking both elegant and slightly vintage, this watch is accompanied by an extract from the archives only. It carries an estimate of HK$42,000-84,000, or about US$5,400-10,800.

For more, visit the catalogue entry.

Lot 986: Zenith x SJX Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”

Our collaboration with Zenith last year was eagerly awaited and swiftly sold out. Fortunately for anyone who missed out, a like-new example has surfaced in this sale.

As detailed in our launch article, the Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” was inspired by the disco-era El Primero G383 that got its nickname from the funky dial design, but reimagined with Super-Luminova on a two-tone grey and black dial. Matched with a striking DLC-coated titanium case, the “Poker Chip” is unlike any other modern-day El Primero, especially on its luminous fabric strap.

Like the other Chronometer Revival models, the proportions are vintage – the case is 38 mm just like the 1969 original – but here executed in a modern way in micro-blasted titanium that’s been DLC coated.

And the movement is of course Zenith’s landmark El Primero 400 that’s visible through the open back.

As is often the case with Zenith, the “Poker Chip” has much to offer in terms of value, making it ideal for someone seeking an original and well made limited edition chronograph without breaking the bank.

Complete with its original box and papers, the Chronometer Revival “Poker Chip” has a modest estimate of HK$40,000-80,000, or about US$5,100-10,300, and no reserve.

For more, visit the catalogue entry.

Lot 999: Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Tourbillon Chronographe

The other value buy from Audemars Piguet is the Jules Audemars Tourbillon Chronographe, a highly complicated timepiece that combines two sought-after complications, the tourbillon and chronograph – for a low estimate of just US$64,100.

First launched in 1982, Jules Audemars was a line of round watches and named after one of the brand’s founders. This watch embodies the traditional Jules Audemars design with a silvered, hobnail guilloche dial featuring pink gold applied numerals. It’s a straightforward expression of classical design that puts the emphasis on the tourbillon at six o’clock.

Like nearly all AP complications, the movement was made by Renaud & Papi, the complications specialist known for supplying Richard Mille. This cal. 2889 is both traditional constructed and finished to a high level. The tourbillon features a black-polished steel cage and bridge, while the chronograph has a lateral coupling and column wheel.

But in typical Renaud & Papi style it also has modern-day engineering within, here exemplified by the 72-hour power reserve, an impressive achievement for a movement made almost two decades ago.

Including its original box and papers, this timepiece is being offered in excellent condition with an estimate of HK$500,000-800,000, or about US$64,100-103,000.

Full lot details here.

Preview and auction details

All lots will be on show during the preview exhibition in the run-up to the auction. Both the auction and preview will take place at the JW Marriott Hotel in Pacific Place.

Preview
Open daily November 24-29 from 10:00 am-7:00 pm

Auction
November 28, 2:00 pm (lots 801-938)
November 29, 2:00 pm (lots 939-1070)

All times are local to Hong Kong, GMT+8.

For the full catalogue, as well as viewing appointments and online bidding, visit Phillips.com.

This was brought to you in collaboration with Phillips.

Descended from Piaget’s ultra-thin dress watches that first emerged six decades ago, the Altiplano is the brand’s quintessential dress watch in the modern day. Minimalist and refined, the Altiplano is pared back, legible, and well-proportioned – not to mention very thin – as expected from a brand that launched its first ultra-thin watch in 1957.

The latest addition to the ultra-thin lineup is the 21-piece limited edition that emerged from a collaboration between Piaget and auctioneers Phillips, the Altiplano Origin China Special Limited Edition. It will be available only at Piaget boutiques in China with the exception of the prototype numbered “00/21” that will be sold at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong sale on November 28.

Initial thoughts

Ordinarily found with a conservative and somewhat plain silver dial, the Altiplano gets a major makeover with a lacquered green dial paired with pink gold hands and indices that liven up its usual monochromatic look. It’s clearly a dress watch yet manages to stand out against all the other dress watches.

That said, the dial is almost perfect, but not quite – the date window with a white date disc looks out of place. I would have preferred the dial to do away with the date altogether.

The case remains the same as the standard model with a wearable and modern size of 40 mm matched with a thinness of just 6.36 mm that’s further enhanced by the slim lugs. Its height, or lack thereof, is thanks to the cal. 1205P, among the thinnest movements made by the brand.

Importantly, the China edition is affordable relative to the standard Altiplano. It retails for 10% over the regular production model, which is certainly a worthwhile upgrade given its aesthetic appeal.

Recognizable yet distinct

While the dial retains the overall look of the standard version, a few changes are apparent upon closer inspection, the colour being the most obvious.

Inspired by the picturesque landscape of China’s vast Qinghai-Tibet Pleateau (incidentally, altiplano is “plateau” in Spanish), the green dial is richly coloured and contemporary in comparison to the standard Altiplano that is inevitably silver.

Lacquered in three layers that thin out towards the edges, the dial has a deep green gradient finish. It’s match with pink gold-plated hands and indices in pink gold-tone print. The contrast between the green and pink gold renders the dial not only eye-catching but also highly legible.

But the tweaks to the dial go beyond its colour. For one, the seconds register is now free of the Arabic numerals found on the standard model, and instead replaces them with baton markers, resulting in a cleaner look that better suits the watch. A more discreet twist is the “secret” signature that forms the baton hour marker for eight o’clock.

Notably, despite being a China-only edition (that often have overt Chinese symbols or colours), the only iconography with an overt association with China is subtle and tasteful – a pink gold star in the sub-seconds register. It brings to mind the stars on the Chinese national flag, but according to Piaget it represents the North Star visible from the plateau.

The star on the seconds register is a reference to the North Star visible from the Qinghai Plateau

Although the dial is clearly well thought out, one detail stands out for being out of place. The date window is exactly the same as on the standard Altiplano models, which means it’s a white disc with black numerals, a colour combination that is somewhat jarring against the green-and-gold dial.

Perhaps the date was a technical necessity. Piaget does make a version of the same movement without the date function, the cal. 1208P, but that goes into an Altiplano model with a larger case, presumably one without the proportions desired by the designers of the China edition. But still a simple fix could have been implement to improve the look, namely a date disc in a dark colour for visual uniformity.

Delicately proportioned

The thinness of the Altiplano has always been a huge part of its appeal. Since the introduction of the hand-wind cal. 9P in 1957, Piaget has been synonyms with ultra-thin watches, culminating in the record-breaking Altiplano AUC of 2020.

Based on the 40 mm Altiplano, the China edition is not a record-setter but very, very thin. The fully-polished, 18k white gold case accentuates its thinness, which allows the watch to wear like a second skin. While minimalist in both function and form, it is still instantly recognisable as an Altiplano since no other brand offers as this many variants of such dress watches today.

Inside is the cal. 1205P that has a distinctive look characterised by an off-centre, 22k pink gold rotor and several winding wheels beside it.  Evolved from the cal. 12P of 1960, the cal. 1205P has been greatly improved over its predecessor, boasting a higher frequency and a longer power reserve, but still stays wafer thin. Measuring only 3 mm high, the movement relies on slimmed-down components and minimal vertical distance between parts to achieve its thinness.

The movement is finished in typical Piaget style that’s a combination of industrial and hand finish. The bridges are decorated with circular Côtes de Genève and while many screws are blued. And two details mark out out as a Piaget calibre, one is the “P” on the regulator of the balance cock and the other is the Piaget family coat of arms on the rotor.

Concluding thoughts

The Altiplano China edition possesses a good aesthetic that makes it appealing. It has been smartly conceived to liven up the model’s conservative looks with the addition of a striking green dial, which transforms the Altiplano into something bold and contemporary. And that comes at only a modest premium over the regular model, a difference that is easily justified with to the small number made and the enhanced visual appeal.

Key facts and price

Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin China Special Limited Edition
Ref. G0A47550

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 6.36 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 1205P
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 44 hours

Strap: Green alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 21 pieces
Availability: Only at Piaget boutiques in China, with prototype to be sold at Phillips
Price: RMB228,000 (equivalent to US$31,900)

The prototype numbered “00/21” will be sold at Phillips’ upcoming auction, with an estimate “in excess of HK$250,000/US$32,000”. For more, visit Phillips.com.

Having looked at some of the most fascinating pocket watches and clocks on offer at Christie’s Important Watches auction that happens soon in Hong Kong, we now turn to attention to the genre that many collectors are now pursuing, independent watchmaking.

As expected, amongst the offerings going on the block are works from the big names like F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, and H. Moser & Cie. But beyond the usual suspects, the sale also encompasses hidden gems, like the highly complicated tourbillon perpetual calendar by Gerald Genta presented as a Cartier Pasha.

The Important Watches auction (lots 2306-2523), including watches from The Triazza Collection, begins at 1 pm on November 27 – the catalogue is available here.

It’s followed by the second session (lots 2201-2282) offering watches from The Champion Collection at 7 pm – see the full catalogue here.

The fully-engraved Gerald Genta movement inside the Cartier Pasha

Lot 2382: Cartier Pasha Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar

Considered one of the most successful watch designers of the 20th century – though his most influential designs were for Audemars Piguet and the Patek Philippe rather than his own – Gerald Genta was also responsible for some of the most complicated watches of the 1980s and 1990s when his namesake brand was at its peak.

In fact, the Genta brand was so proficient at making highly complex watches that Cartier tapped Gerald Genta as a movement supplier for its top-of-the-line complications in the 1990s. Having designed the modern-day Pasha de Cartier in 1985, Gerald Genta was also responsible for the movements in the most complicated Pasha models in the follow decade.

One of the fruits of the Genta-Cartier relationship was the Pasha perpetual calendar with tourbillon, a horological work of art with an open-worked that shows off the perpetual calendar mechanism. As with many of the Gerald Genta watches of the period, the Pasha has an elaborately executed dial with its sub-dials in mother-of-pearl.

Done in the classic Pasha form with a rotating bezel and a cap over the crown, the 18k yellow gold case has a sapphire crystal back that reveals a movement that’s been intricately engraved on almost every surface. The centrepiece is a one-minute tourbillon decked secured by a double “C” bridge.

At 38 mm the watch is compact by modern standards but still an eminently wearable size, especially for something so ornate. This under-the-radar watch unsurprisingly has a modest estimate of HK$120,000-240,000, or about US$15,400-30,700. For more, visit the catalogue entry.

Lot 2400: Gerald Genta Mickey Mouse Retro Fantasy “Hong Kong Handover”

Well before character watches became a thing with luxury watchmakers, Gerald Genta had a license from The Walt Disney Company. Starting in the 1980s, Gerald Genta produced watches bearing Disney cartoon characters as the Fantasy collection, often combined with the retrograde minutes display and its sister complication, the jump hour. Because of the enduring appeal of Disney’s best-loved characters, the Fantasy watches have retained a great degree of desirability even as the Genta brand has been dormant.

In typical Gerald Genta style, Mickey is portrayed on a mother-of-pearl dial

In 1997, Gerald Genta designed a special series of the Fantasy Retro to commemorate the handover of Hong Kong by the United Kingdom to China. Automatic with a 36 mm case, it was a limited edition of 97 pieces in steel, along with a smaller run of 19 watches in white gold.

This is one of the white gold examples. Housed in an 18k gold case, the ETA-based automatic movement drives a display that has Mickey Mouse’s left arm waving the Union Jack. His left arm also doubles up as the retrograde minute hand and traces the hour across a semi-circular arm before returning to its starting point to begin all over again. In his right hand Mickey has the flags of China and Hong Kong SAR. 

Numbered “9/19”, the Gerald Genta Mickey Mouse Retro Fantasy carries an estimate of HK$50,000-100,000, or about US$6,400-12,800. 

You can find out more in the catalogue.

Lot 2402: Gerald Genta Arena Chronograph Quattro Retro

As many of our readers would remember, Bulgari sought to revitalise its watchmaking division by purchasing Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth from the Singapore watch retailer The Hour Glass in 2000, a time when the major jewellery brands were putting serious money into building up their watchmaking know-how.

This watch is a Gerald Genta under Bulgari ownership. Even though this and others like it are often overlooked because of the change in ownership, the brand was putting out interesting movements at the time. The design is an evolution of the Gerald Genta original and equipped with a surprisingly complex movement.

First introduced in 1996, the Arena was groundbreaking at the time for combining two complications: the jump hour and the retrograde in a single wristwatch.

The Arena Quattro Retro takes the concept even further by adding a chronograph into the mix. And it is not merely an ordinary chronograph, but one with retrograde registers for both the hours and minutes. It also features a retrograde date indicator at six o’clock, hence the Quattro Retro name.

The quadruple retrograde display is driven by an in-house module built on top of a Frederic Piguet cal. 1185 movement, a slim and sophisticated movement widely used by high-end brands at the time, including Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin.

The case design retains the original Genta style but scales it up to 45 mm for a maximalist, sporty aesthetic. Because the case is titanium, it is lightweight despite the size.

The Arena Quattro Retro has an estimate of HK$80,000-160,000, or about US$10,240-20,500. More details here.

Lot 2409: Ressence Type 1004 “Zero Series”

Ressence has been lauded for its minimalist design and clever mechanics, a direction the brand has pursued from its inception. Founded in 2010 by Belgian designer Benoît Mintiens, Ressence timepieces have an unmistakable aesthetic centred on a streamlined case and clean dial with an orbital display. Though mostly known today for its crown-less case, the brand actually got its start twelve years ago relying on conventional crowns.

Launched in 2010, the Zero Series was the first collection of serially-produced timepieces by the nascent brand. The line-up was essentially a single model but in four different dial colours: black (Type 1001), silver (Type 1002), light titanium (Type 1003), and dark grey (Type 1004), with a total production run of just 50 pieces.

The Zero Series featured an orbital-display dial with discs that rotated in sync to tell the time, thanks to a proprietary, patented module known as the Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS). And while the case already had the sleek lines that now define the brand, it also had an ordinary crown at three o’clock for both winding and setting.

With a retail price of about €10,000 at the time, the Zero Series watches were pricey for an upstart brand but are now affordable compared to Ressence’s latest products that boast substantial technical upgrades and innovation but also a much higher price.

As a result, this Type 1004 is something of a value buy for some looking for an affordable example of the inventive watchmaking of Ressence. It has an estimate of HK$90,000-180,000, or about US$11,500-20,500. For more, visit the catalogue entry.

Lot 2411: H. Moser & Cie. Nomad Dual Time

Amongst the roster of high-profile independents today, H. Moser & Cie. is a favourite for its often whimsical yet also elegant watches. In recent years the brand has become increasingly known for the whimsical, from the Swiss Alp Watch to the peculiar Swiss Mad Watch with a case made partly from Swiss cheese. But the Schaffhausen-based manufacturer has always had elegant watches in its stable, many equipped with practical complications like the Nomad Dual Time.

Low key but useful, the Nomad is a travel watch pared to the essentials. It has a second time-zone hand plus a discreet day and night indicator at 12 o’clock. But the second time zone hand can be hidden under the hour hand when not in use, transforming this into a three-hander that’s (almost) time only.

Measuring 41 mm in diameter, it is powered by the in-house cal. HMC 346, an automatic with a bidirectional “Magic Lever” winding mechanism and a solid rose gold rotor.

Notably, this example has a platinum case, instead of the more common white gold.

The Nomad Dual Time carries an estimate of HK$120,000-240,000, or about US$15,400-30,700, something of a bargain considering its original retail price was US$45,400.

For more, check out the catalogue.

Lot 2412: Daniel Roth Millennium Ref. 0357BCSL

Founding his namesake brand in 1989, Daniel Roth was one of the first independent watchmakers to reinterpret traditional Swiss watchmaking and establish his own distinctive style. He had honed the craft at Audemars Piguet and Jaeger-LeCoultre, but is most famous for helping resurrect the Breguet in the 1970s.

Like many independent watch brands of the time, Daniel Roth eventually left his namesake brand. His earliest creations possess the purity of a small-scale independent, explaining their renewed appeal for collectors. But some of the brand’s later watches are also interesting and tend to offer better value as they are frequently overlooked in favour of earlier watches.

Made just before the brand was sold to Bulgari in 2000, the ref. 0357 was a limited series of 50 timepieces in each colour of gold to commemorate the new millennium.

Encased in the signature double-ellipse case in white gold, this has hobnail guilloche dial with Roman numerals and blued steel sword hands. It also includes a pair of simple complications, an off-centre power reserve indicator and a moon phase, which bring to vintage classic Breguet pocket watches.

The watch is powered by the cal. DR200, an unusual form movement that echoes the shape of the case. It was produced by Jaquet, the movement maker now known as La Joux-Perret, and developed specifically for tonneau-shaped watches.

Accompanied by its box and certificate, this ref. 0357BCSL is numbered “18/50”. It has an estimate of HK$100,000-200,000, or about US$12,800-25,600. For more, visit the catalogue entry.

Lot 2416: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain

Rightly regarded as one of the most influential watchmaker alive, François-Paul Journe is a technical genius whose creations have garnered both critical and commercial acclaim. Values of F.P. Journe watches have accelerated into the stratosphere in the last three years, leaving few options for someone who wants an entry-level watch from the brand. The most affordable watch (at least in a relative sense) from F.P. Journe is the simple but sophisticated Chronomètre Souverain.

First introduced in 2005, the timepiece draws inspiration from 19th-century marine chronometers with its functional aesthetic comprising a silvered dial with a power reserve indicator. But it is executed in the signature F.P. Journe fashion with Clous de Paris guilloche and blued steel hands.

This example is arguably the quintessential variant of the Chronometre Souverain with a 40 mm platinum case and silver dial. It contains the cal. 1304, a manual-wind movement featuring a twin barrels that provide a power reserve of 55 hours, along with bridges in 18-karat red gold.

Accompanied by the original box and papers, the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain has an estimate of HK$280,000-480,000, or about US$36,000-61,400.

For more, visit the catalogue entry.

Lot 2225 (The Champion Collection): Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon

Greubel Forsey’s Quadruple Tourbillon is a remarkable feat that combines four tourbillon carriages configured to fit in a single wristwatch. First introduced in 2009, the timepiece is the most complex tourbillon made by Greubel Forsey, no slouch when it comes to the complication. The Quadruple Tourbillon was the result of four years of research and development that built on its predecessor, the Double Tourbillon 30°, and further elaborated upon in its successor, the GMT Quadruple Tourbillon. 

The movement has twin regulators, each a Double Tourbillon 30°, which are in turn linked by a spherical differential that improves its accuracy by 2.5 seconds per day according to the brand. Each of the regulators has an outer cage that makes one revolution every four minutes that encloses an inner one-minute cage inclined at 30° from the horizontal. Both Double Tourbillons are secured by clear sapphire bridges, allowing for an unobstructed view.

Unsurprisingly, the movement is made up of 535 parts, despite being a three hander – hours, minutes, and seconds – with almost half the number of components accounted for by the tourbillon regulators.

A large 45 mm in diameter and entirely platinum, the Quadruple Tourbillon certainly has a gravity to it. As is typical of Greubel Forsey approach, the watch has no half-measures; the movement is impressively finished, mostly by hand. It’s done in the typical Greubel Forsey style with frosted bridges outlined by wide, rounded bevels that are perfectly mirror polished.

Notably, this particular watch has a bonus in the movement – gold plates engraved with the signatures of Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, each screwed onto the barrel bridge, a personal touch on what can be deemed a horological tour de force.

Presented in unworn condition, the Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon is accompanied by its customary packaging and papers, as well as a servicing (up to a retail value of CHF10,000) that will be offered to the new owner compliments of Greubel Forsey. It  has an estimate of HK$1.8-3.6 million, or about US$230,300-460,600. You can find out more in the catalogue.

Preview and auction details

All lots will be on show during the preview in Hong Kong during the run-up to the auction. Both the preview exhibition and sale will happen at the Hall 3D of the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.

Hall 3D, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre
1 Harbour Road
Wanchai, Hong Kong

Preview
November 26, 10:30 am – 6:30 pm
November 27, 10:30 am – 12:00pm

Auction
November 27, 1:00 pm (lots 2306-2523)
November 27, 7:00 pm (lots 2201-2282)

All times and dates are local to Hong Kong (GMT+8).

The catalogues for both sessions are online – the first that includes The Triazza Collection and the second comprising watches from The Champion Collection.

This was brought to you in collaboration with Christie’s.