Unveiled in 2019, the Odysseus was A. Lange & Söhne’s first foray into sports watches. A commercial success since launch, the Odysseus has since become one of the brand’s most desirable watches. Though it has been iterated in different metals (including titanium), it has remained the same model, until now.

Long anticipated and alluded to by chief executive Wilhelm Schmid, the Odysseus Chronograph has finally arrived. While powered by a brand-new automatic movement that incorporates a novel and fanciful reset feature, the watch retains the same Odysseus styling.

Initial thoughts

The Odysseus Chronograph is not unexpected. From the start the Odysseus case was designed to feature integrated pushers resembling crown guards, making it ideal for a chronograph. And the Odysseus Chronograph looks exactly as expected.

Though the design is not surprising, the Odysseus Chronograph is cleverly designed. It manages to retain the aesthetics of its predecessor despite being substantially more complicated. The key visual difference is the addition of just two central chronograph hands. The consistent design was accomplished by smartly endowing the large integrated pushers with dual functionality of activating the chronograph or calendar adjustment.

Predictably, the new movement inside is automatic – atypical for Lange but sticking to industry convention for a sports watch.

However, being automatic means that most of the chronograph mechanism is hidden under the bridges and rotor, resulting in an aesthetic that lacks the intricacy of the typical Lange chronograph movement. The density and grace of steel levers visible in Lange’s manual-wind chronographs are missing here.

In fact, it construction of the movement means its appearance is somewhat generic. Although the finishing and decorative elements are clearly Lange, the overall structure of the movement resembles high-end chronograph movements from the likes of Audemars Piguet and Rolex.

Though the appearance on the back is conventional, the movement incorporates an oddity, a quirky reset feature for the chronograph. While the chronograph minutes reset to zero as usual, the chronograph seconds will rapidly circle around the dial, making a number of revolutions that match the number of elapsed minutes before resetting to 12 o’clock. It is odd to see such a gimmick in a Lange movement, as the brand usually focuses on elaborate engineering and practical utility, which is not the case with this reset function.

The Odysseus Chronograph costs about US$145,000 – a lot despite Lange’s vaunted quality. In any case, it is limited to 100 pieces in steel so availability will be challenging, to put it mildly.

Familiar livery

Like the inaugural model, the Odysseus Chronograph has a hefty steel case, but now enlarged to accommodate the new movement. At 42.5 mm wide and 14.2 mm thick, the Odysseus Chronograph has presence. It is chunky but the dimensions are in keeping with what is expected in a modern sports watch.

Naturally the Odysseus Chronograph is fitted to a steel bracelet like that on the original. It flares outwards at the case to match the taper of the lugs, creating the appearance of an integrated bracelet. And integrated into the clasp is a ratcheting extension system that is released by the round button in the centre of the clasp.

While the case is bigger, the black dial is almost identical to that of the original Odysseus in both size and appearance. The dial fits in the larger case due to a wider flange around the dial, which has the minutes on its inner edge and the addition of an extended lip featuring the hashmarks for the elapsed seconds.

The only other clue that this is a chronograph – besides the label at 12 o’clock – is the pair of central hands. The Odysseus Chronograph has a conventional central chronograph seconds, along with an uncommon central 60-minute chronograph hand, which does away with the need for registers to display elapsed time.

The rest of the dial is familiar and identical to the original Odysseus. The sub-dial at six o’clock displays running seconds, while the oversized date and day displays are at three and nine o’clock respectively.

The raised chapter ring for the hours features concentric patterning and adds depth to an otherwise expansive dial. The large and legible hour markers have luminous fill, as do the hands, including the tip of the chronograph seconds.

A repurposed feature of the original Odysseus are the two large buttons on each side of the crown. Resembling crown guards, they were date correctors on the first Odysseus and now act as pushers for the chronograph.

But there’s a twist as the pushers have dual functionality – pulling the crown out to its first stop transforms the pushers into correctors for the date and day displays, as they are on the original Odysseus. Returning the crown to its winding position reverts the pushers to chronograph activation.

The calendar functions of the Odysseus Chronograph are identical to the preceding model

Automatic chronograph

Powering the Odysseus Chronograph is the L156.1 Datomatic – the first automatic chronograph movement developed by Lange.

It is also the first Lange chronograph movement sporting a vertical clutch, which is prominently visible next to the central rotor and balance wheel. While a portion of the chronograph levers are visible thanks to cut-outs on the bridge, most of the mechanism is covered by the bridge and rotor.

A notable quirk of the movement is the “dynamic reset-to-zero function”. When the chronograph is reset, the chronograph seconds will rapidly complete a number of revolutions matching the elapsed minutes before stopping at 12 o’clock. So if the elapsed minutes was at “15”, the seconds hand will make 15 rapid revolutions around the dial as the minute hand is returning to 12 o’clock.

While novel and not found in another watch, this feature appears to be relatively straightforward. The chronograph seconds hand is most likely directly geared to the chronograph minutes wheel, on which the heart cam for the reset feature is mounted. This allows the chronograph seconds hand to “count” the elapsed minutes and rotate as the minutes are being reset.

Like the L155.1 in the base-model Odysseus, the new L156.1 is equipped with full balance bridge and a 4 Hz balance wheel. This relatively higher frequency ensures stable timekeeping even with active daily use and also allows the chronograph to measure elapsed times with a resolution of up to an eighth of a second.

The new movement has the same oscillating weight found in the original Odysseus, an open-worked rotor made of Arcap with a platinum mass along its rim

Key facts and price

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph
Ref. 463.178

Diameter: 42.5 mm
Height: 14.2 mm
Material: Stainless Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: L156.1 Datomatic
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet

Limited edition: 100 pieces
Availability: At A. Lange & Söhne boutiques only
Price: Approximately US$145,000

For more, visit alange-soehne.com.

Undoubtedly the most unusual wristwatch from A. Lange & Söhne – and perhaps the brand’s most intriguing – the Zeitwerk is digital but entirely mechanical. Thirteen years after the first model made its debut and became a landmark in modern watchmaking, Lange has just unveiled the all-new, second-generation Zeitwerk.

Gently redesigned but substantially improved, the second-generation model brings the total number of Zeitwerk models to ten (totalling 17 references) from 2009 to now. What follows is a look at every single Zeitwerk reference, including rarely-seen limited editions and a little-known unique piece (save for the unique example never publicly announced by Lange). It’s intended to be be a clear and concise guide covering every single model, one that details the varied functions, decoration, and changes across variants.

The latest-generation Zeitwerk movement, still recognisable thanks to the remontoir bridge

A brief history

Before we dive into the watches, it’s important to understand how the Zeitwerk came along and its significance in modern watchmaking.

Like much else created by Lange, the Zeitwerk has its roots in historical watchmaking in Saxony. The Zeitwerk’s digital display takes its cues from the five-minute clock sitting over the stage in the Dresden’s Semper Opera.

And like much else in historical Saxon watchmaking, the clock is related to A. Lange & Söhne. The clock maker behind the opera timekeeper, Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes, was the father-in-law of Ferdinand-Adolph Lange, the titular “A. Lange” who founded his firm in 1845.

The five-minute clock in the Semper Opera. Image – Lange

The impetus for the digital wristwatch, however, came from Gunter Blümlein, the key man behind the revival of Lange in 1990. According to Anthony de Haas, now Lange’s Product Development Director, the late Blümlein sketched a digital Lange wristwatch in 2001, shortly before he passed away.

Development of the idea started in 2004 when Mr de Haas joined the company. Over the following five years, the design underwent multiple iterations – some far removed from the original concept – before culminating in the now-classic Zeitwerk dial. For the full story behind the genesis of the Zeitwerk, revisit our 2018 story.

Early concepts for the Lange digital watch

Significance

Even now, two decades since Blümlein penned the concept, the Zeitwerk remains something of a unicorn, a feat considering digital displays are not a modern invention. In fact, they can be found in pocket watches from the 19th century. What sets the Zeitwerk apart?

The most obvious is the horizontal display of the digital hours and minutes – arranged from left to right like how time is read – whereas historical digital displays were laid out vertically as a matter of mechanical convenience.

Even in modern-day watchmaking, the Zeitwerk is one of the only three watches with horizontal hours and minutes – and likely the only one that functions reliably. The other two are the De Grisogono Meccanico dG from 2008 and the François Quentin 4N from 2010.

And when pitted against digital watches from F.P. Journe or Harry Winston’s Opus, the Zeitwerk is arguably more accomplished in technical terms, simply because it boasts superior robustness and reliability.

The comparison against the likes of F.P. Journe is also instructive because it reveals that Lange is an establishment brand with an independent spirit. It’s the only mainstream brand, one owned by luxury group by less, that has a watch as exotic as the Zeitwerk in the catalogue. Other comparable watches are the products of niche or independent watchmakers.

The second-generation Zeitwerk in pink gold

Technically-minded enthusiasts will realise the secret to the Zeitwerk’s digital display is the constant-force mechanism, also known as a remontoir, that drives the large and heavy discs. Centred on a tiny spring that stores and instantaneously releases energy every minute, the remontoir is what makes the Zeitwerk possible.

The reason for that is simply energy consumption. A conventional gear train has insufficient torque to drive the discs without affecting timekeeping, while a separate mainspring would be too much, both in terms of power and size.

That left the remontoir as the most elegant solution, and also one that already existed when the Zeitwerk was in development. The mechanism was borrowed from the Lange 31, which required a remontoir for the opposite purpose. While in a Zeitwerk the remontoir rations out the limited energy in the mainspring, in the Lange 31 the constant-force mechanism was needed to moderate the power of the monstrous mainspring with a 31-day power reserve.

The Lange 31 with its enormous mainspring that is wound by a key that goes into the socket on the case back; and the remontoir is visible just next to the balance wheel

Overview

Launched in May 2009, the Zeitwerk collection totals to 17 references over 13 years, a small number considering its status as an iconic watch of the brand. Most of the references are due to the addition of striking complications. As a result there are essentially five variations based on function: time-only, date, hour striker, decimal striker, and minute repeater.

The five function groups of the Zeitwerk (clockwise from top-left): time only, date, decimal striker, minute repeater, hour striker

Despite the varied complications, the Zeitwerk collection is powered by only two distinct movement generations. Amongst the key differences between the two is power reserve, 36 hours for the first and 72 for the second.

In the current catalogue, the distinction is clear: all chiming Zeitwerk models are equipped with first-generation movement, while the non-chiming watches have been upgraded to sport the second-generation movement.

The second-generation movement (left) and first

The comparatively few variants of the Zeitwerk means it retains a strong, recognisable aesthetic that has varied little over the last decade. Indeed, there are only three dial types found on the Zeitwerk to date, namely conventional galvanic-coated silver, clear sapphire Luminous, and engraved Handwerkskunst.

Dial types (from left): silver, clear sapphire, and hand engraved

And in terms of case material, the Zeitwerk sticks to the usual options offered by Lange, namely the three colours of gold, platinum, as well the brand’s proprietary Honey Gold. That, of course, covers only the publicly known Zeitwerk iterations.

The Decimal Strike in Honey Gold

Unusually, the Zeitwerk line boasts a generous number of limited edition relative to the model variants. There have been seven limited edition Zeitwerks thus far, excluding the known unique piece, which add up to almost half the references ever produced.

Three of the limited editions have conventional silver dials, two are clear sapphire, and one is hand engraved. In terms of complications, four of the limited editions are time only, while the rest are chiming watches.

Notably, one of the limited editions, the Decimal Strike, was a one-off complication as its movement never made it into the regular catalogue.

The seven limited editions and the unique piece (bottom right corner)

May 2009 – the original

The original Zeitwerk was unveiled in May 2009 in three colours of gold plus platinum. That same year, the Zeitwerk took home the L’Aiguille d’Or, the top prize at the GPHG.

The references were 140.029 (white gold), 140.021 (yellow gold), 140.032 (rose gold) and 140.025 (platinum). All four references contained the L043.1 with a patented, one-minute constant-force mechanism and power reserve of 36 hours.

Clockwise from top left: platinum, yellow gold, white gold, and pink gold

The Zeitwerk case metal and dial combinations were similar to that of other Lange models, most notably the Lange 1. The yellow gold model was matched with a champagne dial, pink gold with silver, platinum with pale grey, while the white gold model had a black dial, the only one with a dark-coloured dial.

To match the case metal, the “wing” bridge for the time display was untreated German silver on the yellow gold and pink gold models, while on the white gold and platinum models the bridge was plated with rhodium to give it a silvery hue echoing the case.

The OG Zeitwerk in pink gold

The models were all regular production, save for the platinum model that was limited to 200 pieces. The yellow gold model was discontinued first in 2013, but the pink and white gold versions were in production until earlier this year.

Though four references were announced in 2009, the number of first-generation, time-only Zeitwerk models later increased to seven, when limited editions like the Luminous and Handwerkskunst were launched.

References: 140.029 (white gold), 140.021 (yellow gold), 140.032 (pink gold) and 140.025 (platinum)
Movement: L043.1
Limited edition: 200 pieces for the platinum version

November 2009 and January 2010 – the first “Lumen”

Shortly after the Zeitwerk was launched, Lange took the covers off a surprising iteration of the model: the Zeitwerk “Phantom” ref. 140.035 that was the first-ever “Lumen” edition. It was announced in late 2009 and then officially unveiled at SIHH the follow year.

For a limited edition variant to arrive just months after the original was unexpected – especially since the Luminous even more limited than the platinum edition and priced substantially higher – but the timing was perhaps intentional in order to cater the strong commercial success of the Zeitwerk. And remember the Financial Crisis ongoing at the time, which dimmed overall demand for the brand’s watches, meaning the Zeitwerk might have provided a much-needed boost.

Limited to 100 pieces, the Zeitwerk Luminous has a grey-tinted clear sapphire dial that reveals the extra-large discs beneath. Utterly unexpected from Lange, a brand better known at the time for studious formality, the Luminous is appealing not just because it is different but because the discs glow in the dark at night.

Notably, the “wing” bridge, along with the sub-dial for the seconds, are coated black, an unusual design feature in a Lange. Minor changes were made to the movement due to the see-through dial, resulting in a new movement known as L043.3, instead of the L043.1 found in the original.

The first of only two Zeitwerk Luminous editions, this special execution had a case of platinum, the metal of choice for most Lange limited editions at the time.

Reference: 140.035 (platinum)
Movement: L043.3
Limited edition: 100 pieces
Notable features: Tinted sapphire dial with luminous discs

January 2011 – the first complicated Zeitwerk

With the standard movement being L043.1 and the Luminous containing the L043.3, you might be wondering what happened in between the two calibres.

The answer arrived during SIHH 2011 when Lange unveiled the first complicated Zeitwerk, the Striking Time powered by the L043.2. Interestingly, the calibre number indicates the chiming Zeitwerk began before the Luminous model.

The Striking Time isn’t a minute repeater, but rather an hour striker. It chimes a single low note at the top of every hour as well as at the a singe high note at quarters. In other words, it indicates the passing of the time, instead of sounding out the time.

The Striking Time was the first and simplest of the three chiming Zeitwerk models to date, but it’s arguably important since it signalled the start of the Zeitwerk’s foray into complications.

Unlike preceding Zeitwerk models, the Striking Time has a larger case of 44.2 mm to accommodate the hammers and gongs visible on the dial. And the dial itself was tweaked to create recesses for the hammers and gongs.

The L043.2 movement

Two versions of the Striking Time were unveiled, first the the ref. 145.025 in platinum, which was limited to 100 pieces, and then the ref. 145.029 in white gold that is still in production today. Another version in rose gold was unveiled a few years later, resulting in three Striking Time references so far.

References: 145.025 (platinum) and 145.029 (white gold)
Movement: L043.2
Limited edition: 100 pieces for the platinum version

June 2011 – the unique piece

The first – and only publicly known – unique Zeitwerk arrived in June 2011 for a good cause. It was conceived to benefit a children’s charity in Singapore, Kidz Horizon Appeal.

The cost of the watch was borne by the family of the late Duncan Wang, an American entrepreneur who resided in Singapore. He passed away in 2009 and his family commissioned several one-off timepieces in the following years, all of which were sold at auction to benefit Kidz Horizon.

The unique Zeitwerk was sold  ]at the 2011 Kidz Horizon gala dinner to a Singapore businessman for 138,000 Singapore dollars (or about US$100,000 at the time), which was sold at about double the retail price of the standard white gold Zeitwerk then.

The 2011 project resulted in the one-off ref. 140.049 with white gold case and grey dial. But the changes went beyond the colour.

Other tweaks include the grey hours and minutes discs, making this one of the three Zeitwerk models (along with the two Luminous editions) that has dark-coloured discs instead of the usual white.

Additionally, a discreet “Made in Germany” was incorporated into the the seconds track at six o’clock, while on the standard Zeitwerk that is engraved on “wing” bridge. And the case back reflects the unique nature of the watch with its rim engraved with “1/1” and “SGP 2011”.

Reference: 140.049 (white gold)
Movement: L043.1
Limited edition: Unique piece

September 2012 – the first Handwerkskunst

After the Luminous and Kidz Horizon, the third very-special Zeitwerk arrived in 2012. All about artisanal craftsmanship, it was the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst ref. 140.048. The extraordinary decoration, along with a surprise in the movement, meant the production of Handwerkskunst edition was difficult enough to limit the edition to just 30 pieces.

Like other Handwerkskunst watches, this Zeitwerk has its front and back adorned with traditional decorative techniques far more elaborate and nuanced than that found on the standard models.

The solid-gold dial, for example, is hand engraved with tiny dimples – the result of the careful removal of minuscule amounts of gold from the dial surface with a burin. At the same time, the markings on the movement bridges are engraved by hand instead of being done by machine.

Interestingly, the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst was also equipped with a technical update. The escapement is no ordinary Swiss lever, but the long-forgotten Glashütte lever.

Lange managed to recover the know-how to fabricate this unusual escapement by tapping on a retired employee who was then already in her nineties. That explains why the movement is L043.4 instead of the L043.1 in the regular models.

Reference: 140.048 (platinum)
Movement: L043.4
Limited edition: 30 pieces
Notable feature: Hand-engraved decoration

January 2014 – a small update 

A new reference arrived two years after the Handwerkskunst, but it was only minor update to the styling of an existing model. Launched at SIHH 2014, the Zeitwerk Striking Time was identical to the 2011 model but in a different metal.

Retaining the 44.2 mm case, the new ref. 145.043 had a pink gold case and a silver dial. Following the design codes of the time-only Zeitwerk, the “wing” bridge on the pink gold Striking is untreated German silver.

Like the white gold version, this wasn’t a limited edition and is still in production today. It was also the last iteration of the Striking Time, which means it’s probably due for an update given that the L043.2 within is based on the first-generation calibre.

Reference: 145.043 (pink gold)
Movement: L043.2
Limited edition: No

January 2015 – the first minute repeater

Just a year later, Lange debuted a major new model, the second Zeitwerk with an additional complication.

At SIHH 2015, Lange unveiled the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, a huge step up from the Striking Time in complexity but not in dimensions – the case of Minute Repeater is only 1 mm thicker than that of the Striking Time. That’s impressive considering meaning the minute repeating L043.5 has 771 parts, 243 parts more than the L043.2 in the Striking Time.

Unlike the Striking Time that indicates time is passing, the Minute Repeater tells the time acoustically. And unlike conventional repeaters, it strikes the time in a 10-minute segments instead of 15-minute segments. In other words, it’s a decimal repeater, making it more intuitive to comprehend when listening to the time.

That said, the Minute Repeater can be distinguished from its simpler brethren even without activating the chimes as the gongs on the dial are arranged differently.

On the Striking Time, the gongs trace the inner circumference of the case, while on the Minute Repeater the gongs follow the outline of the “wing” bridge on the the lower half of the dial.

As is typical for Lange , the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater made its debut in platinum as the ref. 147.025, but as a regular production model.

A limited edition reference of the same, however, was unveiled a few years later (more on that later).

Reference: 147.025 (platinum)
Movement: L043.5
Limited edition: No

2016 – a quiet upgrade

Lange didn’t launch any new Zeitwerk in 2016, but it did make important changes to the existing movement. In fact, according to Robert Hoffman, the head of the Zeitwerk department, Lange has redesigned about 80% of the minute display mechanism.

The mechanical upgrade is obvious to the wearer – the single-digit minutes disc no longer arms itself with a mini jump at the 55-second mark, but it instead jumps to the next digit seamlessly at the top of each minute.

Though a seemingly simple update, it required substantial revision of the movement, including an entirely new set of gears for the constant-force mechanism and minute display.

The original (left) and upgraded mechanism

January 2017 – the first (and possibly last) Decimal Strike

Two years after launching the Minute Repeater, Lange once again turned to the hour striker complication, but with a twist.

The Zeitwerk Decimal Strike ref. 143.050 has a slightly different movement that chimes more frequently. Instead of chiming at every quarter, the L043.7 inside rings every ten minutes.

Notably, the Decimal Strike also boasts other features that make it special. That includes a Honey Gold case that’s a shade between yellow and pink gold, as well as a Handwerkskunst-esque dial featuring tremblage engraving on the “wing” bridge, hammers and bridge for the hammers.

Limited to 100 pieces, the Decimal Strike was a one-off creation, because the movement was conceived specifically for this reference and never made it into regular production, at least for now.

Reference: 143.050 (honey gold)
Movement: L043.7
Limited edition: 100 pieces
Notable feature: Hand-engraved decoration

January 2019 – the second-generation movement

Twenty-nineteen was the tenth anniversary of the Zeitwerk, an occasion marked in an appropriately significant manner. It saw the launch of the most important evolution of the Zeitwerk when Lange finally unveiled the all-new, second-generation movement.

The movement made its debut, not as in the classic time-only guise but instead within the Zeitwerk Date ref. 143.038 in white gold and an unusual grey dial.

Because of the date ring on the edge of the dial, the case was scaled up to large 44.2 mm, or about 2 mm wider than its time-only counterpart.

The most important upgrades of the Zeitwerk Date lie in the new L043.8 movement, which is naturally derived from the original L043.1 but substantially improved.

From a practical standpoint, the most useful upgrade is the extended power reserve, now twice as long at 72 hours. Equally useful is the pusher at four o’clock for the quickset hours.

Reference: 143.038 (white gold)
Movement: L043.8
Limited edition: No

April 2020 – another small update

With the next Zeitwerk Lange returned to a past model. The Zeitwerk Minute Repeater ref. 147.028F became the first model in the range to sport a blue dial.

Unlike the original version in platinum that had a silver dial, the white gold version is a limited edition. Only 30 pieces were made, putting it on par with the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst as the smallest production run amongst Zeitwerk models (leaving out the unique pieces).

Reference: 147.028F (white gold)
Movement: L043.5
Limited edition: 30 pieces

October 2021 – the second “Lumen”

On October 24, 2021, 27 years since the brand was reestablished, Lange unveiled the first time-only second-generation Zeitwerk. The Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen ref. 142.055 combines the brand’s proprietary gold alloy honey gold with the “Lumen” treatment.

Like the earlier Zeitwerk Date, the second Lumen has a second-generation movement with a 72-hour power reserve and quickset hours. It’s powered by the  L043.9.

Unlike the original Zeitwerk Luminous that was limited to 100 pieces, the Honey Gold Lumen is limited to 200 pieces, reflecting the appetite for complicated Lange watches.

Reference: 142.055 (honey gold)
Movement: L043.9
Limited edition: 200 pieces
Notable features: Tinted sapphire dial with luminous discs

October 2022 – finally the second-generation time-only

A year after the Honeygold Lumen, Lange finally unveiled the long-expected second-generation time-only Zeitwerk to replace the original from 2009. The new models are the ref. 142.025 in platinum and ref. 142.031 in pink gold.

Notably the pink gold version now sports a black dial instead of silver as is typical for Lange and found on the first-generation Zeitwerk. And the second-generation Zeitwerk is only available in two metals, lacking the white gold and yellow gold variants for now.

The movement within is the L043.6, which indicates that the calibre preceded the L043.7 of the Decimal Strike of 2017. For a detailed look at the second-generation model, check out our in-depth story.

Reference: 142.031 (pink gold) and 140.025 (platinum)
Movement: L043.6
Limited edition: No

Addendum: There have been 10 time-only Zeitwerk references across the two generations, including one “Lumen” edition from each generation, as well as a Handwerkskunst. 

Correction October 30, 2022: There have been seven limited edition Zeitwerks, instead of six as stated in an earlier version of the article. 

A certainty after the Zeitwerk Date of 2019 and last year’s Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen, the second-generation A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is finally here. As expected, the new Zeitwerk is a gentle evolution from the original in terms of design, but a substantial step forward in technical terms.

Known as the ref. 142.025 in platinum and ref. 142.031 in pink gold, the new Zeitwerk is powered by the same revamped movement L043 movement found in the Date and Lumen. As a result, it has all of same upgrades, namely a thinner movement that boasts a quickset corrector for the hours as well as a 72-hour power reserve.

The new Zeitwerk in pink gold

And the second-generation L043.6

Initial thoughts

In a technical sense, the new Zeitwerk is a superior watch, as it should be, coming 13 years after the original.

Aesthetically, it remains largely unchanged save for a few nips and tucks, leaving the new model instantly recognisable as a Zeitwerk. In fact, most would be hard pressed to tell the difference between the two generations from across a room.

The second generation (left) and its predecessor

In the metal the new Zeitwerk looks and feels very much like the original upon initial examination. But the differences quickly become obvious, even though some, like the enlarged seconds, are subtle enough they are difficult to pinpoint.

Other tweaks are easier to spot, like the red marking on the power reserve scale. Personally I’m not a fan of the red accent since it creates a peculiar focal point on the dial, though I understand the logic of red for low power.

The new Zeitwerk in platinum

The thinness of the watch, however, feels substantial, even though it’s only 0.4 mm. That’s largely due to the fact that the reduction in height comes from the bezel, which always seemed bulbous on the original.

Despite that, the new model still feels like a Zeitwerk – it’s a large, weighty watch as most Lange timepieces are, but it is just a tiny bit sleeker than the original.

The new model is 12.2 mm high, a seemingly modest reduction in height but one that makes a difference

The movement is undoubtedly better in terms of function and the same can be said of its aesthetics, though the complexity of decoration might divide opinion. While the first-generation movement had an almost chaotic design – exemplified by the crooked remontoir bridge – the new calibre has a cleaner, more coherent style.

Most of the changes, in short, are improvements in both design and function – they contribute to a better watch. The practical improvements are enough that the new model is arguably a worthwhile upgrade even for the owner of a first-generation model.

At the same time, the new Zeitwerk feels similar enough to the original that anyone familiar with the original will still be comfortable. Not much of a difference is noticeable on the wrist, except for the utility offered by the new features.

The new L043.6 with its straight remontoir bridge

On a separate note, it’s worth noting the seemingly sparse choices on offer. In contrast to the original model that was available in four variants, the new Zeitwerk makes it debut in only two – a conventional platinum with silver dial and a more unusual pink gold matched with a black dial.

The rationale of the pink gold version is probably to appeal to those who missed out on the Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen, which has a similar palette. In fact, at a distance both look almost the same.

Given that the white-gold-black-dial variant of the original Zeitwerk was probably the most popular, it’s peculiar that the combination isn’t in the catalogue anymore. But commercial logic dictates a variant of the white gold model with a dark dial, maybe blue or grey, is surely in the pipeline.

The Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen

The new Zeitwerk in pink gold

And in restrained platinum

Gently evolving

Side by side both generations of Zeitwerk are clearly similar but distinct. The visual changes from one generation are modest but enough that the the two can be distinguished at arm’s length.

Perhaps the most significant change is the case thickness. The new Zeitwerk is just 12.2 mm high, compared to 12.6 mm for its predecessor, a notable achievement considering the twofold increase in power reserve.

The new (left) and old

The reduction in height comes entirely from a flatter bezel; the case middle and back remain the same on both generations.

But that single component has a major impact on the perceived size and thickness of the watch. The flatter, slightly less domed bezel gives the new Zeitwerk a very different look and feel. Placed side by side with the original, the new Zeitwerk looks and feels almost svelte. The original, in contrast, suffers from a domed bezel that emphasis its bulk.

The new at 12.2 mm (left) and original at 12.6 mm

Another visible change is the addition of the pusher at four o’clock for advancing the hours. The button serves and eminently useful purpose since setting the time no longer requires cycling through 60 minutes repeatedly to set the hours. But it does interrupt the lines of the case. Personally I would happily sacrifice the utility of a quickset hours for a cleaner outline.

Less apparent but important to the visual refinement is the enlarged seconds register. It’s imperceptibly larger, but makes all the difference in giving the dial better proportions.

Paradoxically, despite being a fairly subtle change on its own, the enlarged seconds makes a big difference to the appearance of the dial because it reduces the footprint of the “winged” bridge for the time display. The slimmer bridge improves the appearance of the dial, as does the enlarged seconds, which is now more prominent than the power reserve indicator.

The increased diameter of the seconds narrow the “wing” bridge around it

In the earlier version, the seconds and power reserve were similar in scale. The new layout is more logical since the seconds are arguably more important for the wearer than the power reserve display (which is only needed once every three days when the movement needs winding).

The new model with its larger seconds (left), against the original, but both have identical power reserve scales

Despite being less prominent, the power reserve indicator is the same size as that of the original model. But it displays differently since it now indicates a long running time. Each hashmark on the scale represents six hours instead of three hours on the original.

The red accent at the empty end of the scale serves as a reminder that winding is necessary, although I am not a fan of the red accent as it jumps out on an otherwise low-key dial. On the pink gold model the red accent is more acceptable since it echoes the rosy hue of the case, but on the monochromatic platinum version it is too conspicuous.

The 12 hashmarks on the power reserve scale now add up to 72 hours

The final two segments of the scale in red represent the final 12 hours of running time

Refined mechanics

The back of the watch is where the differences between the two generations are realised in a tangible, mechanical sense. Visible through the open back of the new Zeitwerk is the L043.6, a calibre that shares the same base as the Zeitwerk Date that’s powered by the L043.8.

As an aside, much can be discerned from the movement name, “L043.6”. The “.6” suffix implies the movement is the sixth development of the L043 (though movements are not released in chronological order). Naturally, the movement of the very first Zeitwerk was the cal. L043.1.

The Zeitwerk Date that was launched in 2019

It was the first model with a second-generation movement, specifically the L043.8

And continuing conventional Lange nomenclature, the “043” prefix indicates development of the movement was started in 2004 – and it was the third movement developed that year. Much has changed in the intervening 18 years.

As a result, even though all Zeitwerk models from 2009 till now are powered by L043.X movements, the calibres can be categorised into two distinct generations that are different enough that key components are not interchangeable between the two. As a result, not only are the two generations different in terms of aesthetics, the second generation has numerous technical upgrades over its predecessor.

The L043.6 of the new Zeitwerk (left), compared with the L043.1 of the original from 2009

The first generation base movement is identical across all models up to, but not including, the Zeitwerk Date, from the base model to the top-of-the-line the minute repeater.

Meanwhile, the Zeitwerk Date signified the beginning of the second generation base movement when it made its debut in 2019 with the L043.8. It took three years for a base-model Zeitwerk with the updated base movement to make it to market, a delay perhaps caused by the pandemic.

The new Zeitwerk movement is identical to that found in the Zeitwerk Date, but without the date mechanism.

The straight remontoir bridge that signifies a second-generation Zeitwerk movement

Quickset hours

The most tangible upgrade to the new Zeitwerk is the quickset hours that can be advanced by the pusher at four o’clock. On its face a dedicated pusher solely for the hours seems odd, but in context it makes sense in several respects.

First, it eliminates the tedium of cycling through 60 minutes – up to 11 times at the extreme – when setting the time. While the pusher only advances the hours forwards, it is still more convenient and quicker than setting the time with the crown.

Second, it reinforces the digital nature of the Zeitwerk by creating a tactile interaction with the digital display. Lastly, the pusher also makes the Zeitwerk a travel-friendly watch since the time zone can be altered without interrupting timekeeping.

Despite being an ostensibly straightforward function, the hour pusher is constructed in typical Lange fashion – complex and reliable. It incorporates an “all-or-nothing” mechanism that is similar to that found in the slide of a minute repeater. This means that the pusher only operates when fully depressed, but does nothing if only depressed halfway, eliminating risks of accidental activation.

The concept behind the pusher is easy to understand: the button (1) pivots a lever with a spring-loaded pawl (3) at its tip that only passes the cam on the hour wheel when the lever is fully pivoted inwards.

Upon release of the pusher, the lever springs back to its neutral position thanks to a detent spring (2), in the process causing the pawl to advance the hour cam one notch forward. Notably, this configuration means the hour disc only advances when the pusher is released, rather than when it is depressed.

The all-or-nothing quickset set mechanism in the Zeitwerk Date that is identical to the hour mechanism in the new Zeitwerk. Image – Lange

Double capacity

The other notable movement upgrade is the lengthened power reserve that effectively doubles the running time from one day to three. The increase from 36 to 72 hours was achieved by a combination of feature, with the most notable being a new barrel set-up consisting of two stacked barrels arranged in series, effectively lengthening the power reserve without increasing the footprint of the barrel.

Each of the two mainsprings in the new movement are almost identical in length to the single mainspring in the original, but are slightly narrower in width. For comparison, the single mainspring in the original Zeitwerk is about two-thirds the height of the two stacked mainsprings in the new Zeitwerk.

The “floating” construction of the two stacked barrels in the new movement

The new barrel set-up streamlines the movement design as the barrel is now “floating” with the ratchet wheel fully visible on top. In the first-generation movement, the barrel was supported by a jewelled, ring-shaped bridge secured by three screws.

The four wheels that wind the mainspring begin just beside the crown and end with the barrel ratchet wheel

Furthermore, the new barrel does away with the need for the Maltese-cross stopwork that’s one of the key visual elements of the first-generation movement.

Even though the twin, stacked mainsprings are taller, the simplified overall barrel construction means the new Zeitwerk is 0.4 mm thinner than the first-generation model – an impressive achievement considering all of the refinements over its predecessor.

The first-generation movement with its kinked remontoir bridge and ring-shaped barrel bridge

Improved gears and wheels

Besides the mainsprings, the extended power reserve is also due to a more efficient gear train. Specifically, the remontoir spring is now thinner while the balance wheel is lighter – contributing to a reduction in the energy needed to power the movement.

Being lighter, the balance wheel requires less energy to oscillate. However, it remains a free-sprung balance that runs at a leisurely 18,000 beats per hour, or 2.5 Hz.

That, combined with the optimised gear train, leads to a substantial reduction in energy consumption by the remontoir. Robert Hoffmann, head watchmaker of the Zeitwerk department, explains that the energy used to rewind the remontoir spring only leads to a five-degree drop in balance wheel amplitude, compared to 35 degrees for the original movement.

Though it has been optimised, the redesigned remontoir operates on the same principles as that of the first-generation movement. The central component of the remontoir is the Y-shaped pallet lever under the centre of the remontoir bridge, which slowly oscillates back and forth in one-minute cycles, precisely releasing the remontoir mechanism once a minute.

The remontoir bridge with its Y-shaped pallet lever

This burst of energy as its releases is the force that drives the heavy hour and minute discs of the digital display, a feat accomplished without disturbing power flow to the balance wheel since the energy needs of the time display have been isolated by the remontoir.

In terms of aesthetics, the remontoir is now very different from its predecessor. It’s been streamlined to sport a linear steel bridge, as opposed to the (in)famous kinked-anchor bridge of the original. The new bridge is clearly neater and cleaner, though it perhaps lacks the idiosyncratic charm of the original, which had beauty in its distorted form.

In contrast, the regulating organ is classic Lange. Both the balance and escape wheel cocks are hand-engraved with a floral motif, as they were in the original movement. However, the balance cock features Lange’s latest form of stud holder.

The engraved escape wheel cock is special. Most Lange movements only sport an engraved balance cock. The engraved escape wheel cock is a flourish typically found only in limited editions or top-of-the-line complications like tourbillons.

The escape wheel cock is elaborately executed with not only engraving but also a black-polished steel cap for the jewel that sits in a gold chaton

Updated decor

The movement finishing in the new Zeitwerk is as expected from Lange, which is to say top-shelf and perhaps the best amongst large manufacturers. All of the hallmark decorative elements are present, like the German silver bridges with prominent anglage along most edges and the polished gold chatons for the larger jewels.

Some elements are unique to the Zeitwerk movement due to its unusual features. One being the snaking steel gear train for winding the barrel made up of four wheels. All four have polished teeth – with mirrored edges on the top edges and recesses – an exceptionally fine detail that is not only executed well but gives the movement an almost-artisanal feel.

Since the ratchet wheel is now exposed in the new movement, the polished teeth are especially easy to admire in their full glory since the barrel ratchet is the largest visible wheel

Another detail unique to the Zeitwerk movement is of course the linear remontoir bridge. Rendered in black-polished steel, the bridge is clearly laboriously finished – it has 32 inward angles along its bevelled edges.

Like all similar components in Lange movements, the bridge is finished by hand with a cone-shaped, rotating abrasive disc that can reach the inward angles. One consequence of this technique is the ever-so-slight, almost-invisible irregularity along the straight edges of the bridge, something apparent only under high magnification.

Even though the new movement is exemplary in nearly all respects, its redesigned mechanics, while functionally superior, arguably result in simplified finishing in one respect.

Due to the streamlined construction of the remontoir and barrel, the area of the three-quarter plate around the remontoir is cleanly machined but plain, with some of the circular cutouts for the remontoir having no bevelling. This area was concealed in the first-generation movement by the anchor-shaped remontoir bridge and barrel bridge.

There is presumably a technical reason for this ostensible omission, either due to production processes or the nature of the components, since that would only be logical and Lange movements are always logical. At the same time, it doesn’t detract from the overall appeal of the calibre.

Conclusion

The new Zeitwerk is essentially the same as its predecessor in terms of look and feel, but with improved technical features and practicality. That means it’s a tangibly superior watch to original.

Already the original was a magnificent achievement – with a magnificent complexity belied by the simple display – which means the new Zeitwerk is a bettered magnificent achievement.

Admired for its quality of engineering and finishing, A. Lange & Söhne is bringing Glashütte to Asia with a pair of exhibitions in Singapore and Hong Kong. The events will showcase the brand’s watches – including important historical models no longer in the catalogue like the Zeitwerk Luminous – as well as the brand’s most important complications like the constant-force mechanism.

The Mechanical Masters takes place from October 27-30 in Singapore (sign up here), while Devoted to the Highest Standards in Hong Kong happens from October 25-31 in Hong Kong (sign up here).

At the Singapore event, Lange’s technical excellence will be personified with live demonstrations of watchmaking, engraving, and other crafts required to complete a watch.

The four-day event in Singapore will be fronted by two gentlemen from Glashütte: Robert Hoffmann, the chief watchmaker for the Zeitwerk department, and Robert Arnold, an artisan-engraver who will demonstrate the art of engraving the balance cock.

A familiar face for anyone who’s attended past Lange events, Robert Hoffmann

Event information

Both events are open to the public, however, registration is required to attend.

Singapore – The Mechanical Masters – 10:00 am-9:00 pm, October 27-30

ION Orchard
2 Orchard Turn
Singapore 238801

Register for the Singapore event

Hong Kong – Devoted to the Highest Standards – 10:00 am-7:30 pm, October 25-31

Landmark Atrium
15 Queen’s Road Central
Central
Hong Kong

Register for the Hong Kong event

This was brought to you in partnership with A. Lange & Söhne.

Launched as part of the “Homage to F.A. Lange” 175th anniversary collection in HoneyGold two years ago, the 1815 Rattrapante was the the only one of the trio that was all-new model. In fact, it was the German watchmaker’s first pure-play split-seconds chronograph, and surprisingly svelte by its standards.

Though the anniversary edition sold out swiftly, the watch is making a comeback with a platinum case and silver dial. A pleasing and familiar combination most often seen on its simpler models, the silver-and-blue livery is uncommon for Lange chronographs, which tend to have dark-coloured dials, making the new split-seconds unusual.

The anniversary 1815 Rattrapante

Initial thoughts

Essentially variation of the original with different case and dial, the new 1815 Rattrapante is still noteworthy because the original in HoneyGold was limited to only 100 pieces but deserved a broader audience because it was appealing on several levels. The watch is thin and understated, unlike most Lange complications, but nevertheless boasts a movement with the visual depth and impeccable decoration typical of the brand.

While the new model has the standard movement decoration instead of a frosted finish, the most obvious difference between the two is on the front. The platinum version has an understated, tone-on-tone look that I prefer over the high-contrast look of the anniversary model. While the all-silver look may seem too simple at a glance, it’s been given a bit of life with red accents and blued steel hands.

That said, the red accents are unnecessary and perhaps too much. I would have preferred the dial markings in blue to match the hands, or even just removing the red markers for a uniform colour. That also makes sense from a functional perspective, since the red accents mark out the quarters on the seconds scale, which are not an especially useful piece of information for the chronograph.

Though both the movement finish and case material are conventional – and the edition size is double that of the HoneyGold version – the platinum Rattrapante costs about 10% more than its predecessor. It is still reasonably priced as such things go.

In fact, the watch arguably offers a better price-to-quality ratio than similar offerings from both establishment and independent watchmakers. For example, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph is comparable in style and function, but it has a movement that’s slightly more complicated and perhaps more appealing, but costs twice as much.

Split-seconds

Though the German watchmaker has long had a split-seconds chronograph in its catalogue, it was always combined with other complications, resulting in watches that were bulky and pricey.

That changed when the 1815 Rattrapante came along. The watch is a unique proposition for Lange, being the brand’s first straightforward split-seconds. Because of its concise movement, it is notably wearable, standing just 12.6 mm tall.

It is also visually distinct with the vertical arrangement of its counters, which stand in contrast with the horizontal twin counters that define all other Lange chronographs.

The vertical layout of the counters give away the origins of the base movement, the L101.1 of the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar. The L101.2 in the 1815 Rattrapante removes the calendar mechanism for a thinner movement, while still preserving the intricate chronograph works visible through the back.

While the L101.2 is mechanically identical to that movement in the anniversary edition, it is finished differently. Instead of the frosted decor reserved for limited editions, the bridges are decorated with the usual Glashütte striping, giving it the typical Lange aesthetic.

The case back view is definitely the highlight, as is the case for any Lange chronograph. Even more complex than the quintessentially Lange Datograph, the L101.2 shows off the components of the split-seconds mechanism, such as the pincer-shaped clamp for the split-seconds wheel.

That said, the L101.2 lacks the overly-engineered approach that’s customary for Lange. It does without an isolator for the split-seconds – the mechanism that reduces drag when the seconds are split – while also relying on a cylindrical coil spring for the reset mechanism. Both are acceptable sacrifices for thinness, and overall the movement is executed to a very, very high standard.

Key facts and price

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante
Ref. 425.025

Diameter: 41.2 mm
Height: 12.6 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: L101.2
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and split-seconds chronograph
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 58 hours

Strap: Alligator leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: 200 pieces
Availability: At A. Lange & Söhne boutiques only
Price: On request

For more, visit alange-soehne.com.

We covered the independents and complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong auction thats happens on May 27 and 28, so now we look at highlights from a recent crowd favourite: A. Lange & Söhne.

Revered for its high-quality movements and impeccable quality, the modern-day brand has only been in operation since 1994 but has managed to build a diverse body of work. A good selection is on offer in the auction, ranging from the mega complications to the simple (albeit not particularly affordable today).

Here we round up six limited edition Lange watches in the sale, including a pair of rare Lange 1s to the second-most-complicated Lange ever made, the Tourbograph Perpetual Pour le Merite, along with a pair of Handwerkskunst editions.

Bidder registration and the full catalogue for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIVis available here.

Lot 816: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Sincere edition 

Since its debut in 1994, the Lange 1 has become an icon of the brand that remains relevant today. After almost three decades, the concept of the watch and its design essence remain intact. Only few other watches have attained such cult status, putting the Lange 1 alongside timepieces like the Calatrava and Royal Oak.

The present example is a limited edition of only 100 pieces produced in 2003 for Singaporean retailer Sincere. The dial is extremely unusual as it features two different guilloche patterns, instead of the typical smooth opaline finish found on most Lange 1 watches. Even other Lange 1 models with guilloche, like the vaunted Lange 1A, usually have only a single guilloche pattern.

The dial is adorned with pinstripes while the sub-dials have the same radial pattern found on the standard Lange 1 guilloche dials. This combination, along with the concentrically brushed chapter rings results in an unusual, ornate look that is unexpected for a Lange but one that still maintains the dial’s legibility.

The case back reveals the caliber L901.0 that is no less interesting than the dial. Finished with Glashütte stripes, the German silver three-quarter plate forms a lustrous backdrop for the gold chatons, red jewels, and blued screws.

This example is highly appealing for collectors of unusual Lange watches, especially since the look is an unusual for the brand. It has an estimate of HK$195,000-350,000, or US$25,000-44,900.

Full lot details here.

Lot 943: A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour le Mérite” Handwerkskunst

The present lot is descended from the Tourbillon Pour la Merite of 1994, the inaugural Lange grand complication. Introduced in 2011, the Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour le Merite Handwerkskunst was a limited edition of only 15 pieces, making it one of the rarest Lange limited editions ever.

It has a case of Honey Gold – Lange’s proprietary gold alloy – that contains a movement with several of the brand’s signature complications, including a fusee-and-chain transmission. That alone comprises 636 parts, with each of the links being hand assembled with rivets.

The distinctive dial layout was inspired by pocket watch no. 93 made by clockmaker to the Royal Saxon court Johann Heinrich Seyffert, which featured a regulator-style dial laid out in exactly the same fashion. Here one of the rings in the Venn diagram-like dial is occupied by the tourbillon. And the hour display located at four o’clock has a ingenious retracting disc that only emerges between eight and 10 o’clock, ensuring that the view of the tourbillon is unobscured at all other times.

But the key feature of this watch is that it’s a Handwerkskunst model. That means the handcrafted decoration on the front and back is elaborately executed to an extremely high standard. This is evident on the tremblagedial that is hand decorated by an engraver who laboriously uses a burin to create numerous tiny divots on the dial, creating the granular finish. Much attention has also been lavished on the movement, resulting in s the elaborately engraved tourbillon bridge and the complex open-working of the three-quarter plate.

Accompanied by the original box and certificate, this watch is numbered “11/15”. It is perhaps the perfect representation of the aesthetic style and technical innovations of Lange, with the added bonus of a Honey Gold case. This has an estimate of HK$900,000-1.8 million or US$115,000-231,000.

Full lot details here.

Lot 944: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst

The auction includes another watch from Lange’s covetable Handwerkskunst collection, the 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst launched in 2015. A limited edition of only 30 watches, it made its debut in the same year as the 200^th birthday of the birth of Ferdinand-Adolph Lange.

Perfectly executed in all respects, the 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst features a hand-engraved tremblage dial like several other watches in the Handwerkskunst series. But its dial has the added complexity of having both a relief brand signature under 12 o’clock as well as relief hour numerals.

Despite its relatively simple front, the movement is technically interesting. The manually-wound L.201.1 inside incorporates a tourbillon with hacking, zero-reset function – pulling the crown to set the time stops the tourbillon and sends the seconds hand to the 12 o’clock position.

The three-quarter plate in German silver is finely frosted and hand engraved, while also having especially refined finishing thanks to its intricate outline and open-worked segment above the barrel. And in typical Lange style, the tourbillon bridges are fully engraved on the back and black polished on the front.

Numbered “25/30”, the present lot is in excellent condition with its full set of accessories. It’s an opportunity to own a watch from the ultra-rare Handwerkskunst series. The estimate is HK$900,000-1.6 million, or US$115,000-205,000.

Full lot details here.

Lot 1017: A. Lange & Söhne Double Split Japan edition

The present lot was made in 2009 as a limited edition of only 10 pieces for the Japanese market. It’s a variant of the Double Split that was first introduced in 2004 in platinum with a black dial. This watch in contrast has a yellow gold case and grey dial.

The launch of the Double Split was an important moment in horology as it was the first wristwatch ever to feature a chronograph with a double rattrapante mechanism – the ability to record two simultaneous elapsed times of up to 30 minutes.

As a measure of its complexity, the L001.1 of the Double Split has 465 components, almost double that of the Datograph, which is a flyback chronograph with a big date. But as is the norm for Lange, the movement is not merely about technical excellence but also decorative beauty.

All components are finished to an extremely high standard. It has the requisite striped German silver three-quarter plate, blued screws, rubies in chatons, and enhanced by the straight-grained and bevelled steel parts of the chronograph mechanism.

Numbered “2/10”, this watch is well preserved and includes all accessories, such as the guarantee booklet that indicates it was sold by the Lange boutique in Tokyo in July 2009. The case even exhibits gentle oxidisation, implying that it has been rarely worn. It has an estimate of HK$625,000-1.25 million, or US$80,100-160,000.

Full lot details here.

Lot 1085: A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual “Pour le Mérite”

The most complicated Lange in this auction – and the second most complicated Lange watch ever made – the Tourbograph Perpetual Pour le Merite was a follow-up to the original Tourbograph of 2005 that combined a tourbillon and split-seconds chronograph. With the addition of a perpetual calendar, it arrived in 2017 as a 50-piece edition in platinum, which was followed by a 50-piece edition in Honey Gold. This example is one of the 50 in platinum and dates to 2020.

The Tourbograph traces its roots to the original Tourbillon Pour le Mérite of 1994, which was the first-ever wristwatch tourbillon to incorporate a fusee-and-chain transmission.

But the Tourbograph Perpetual “Pour le Mérite” goes even further by adding on a split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar. The L133.1 within is made up of 684 components, counting the chain as a single part (but the chain is actually made up of 636 links rivetted by hand).

Unsurprisingly given all those complications, the movement is a sight to behold. Turn the watch over and all is revealed. To say the intricate density of parts and high level of finishing is impressive is an understatement.

That is all contained in a hefty but wearable 43 mm case of platinum that’s matched with a silver dial featuring Arabic numerals – the quintessential Pour le Mérite look.

The peculiar sunken tourbillon bridge that’s unique to this model

The present example is “37/50” and is the first of the model to appear at Phillips. Being just two years old, the watch is well preserved and includes its full set of accessories including an enormous, numbered presentation box.

This has an estimate of HK$1.27-2.5 million, or US$163,000-321,000. Full lot details here.

Lot 1115: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1A

Released in 1998 as a limited edition of 100 pieces, the Lange 1A is a significant model in being the very first limited-edition Lange 1 as well as the second limited edition introduced by Lange since its re-establishment in 1994 (with the first being the Tourbillon Pour le Merite).

The most striking feature of this watch is the dial, which is solid 18k gold as opposed to silver as is convention for Lange. It is decorated with a complex, radial guilloche, albeit one that was engraved with a CNC machine instead of a hand-operated rose engine. However, the dial is still extremely well executed.

The date discs, power reserve hand, hour and minute hands are also in gold in keeping with the gilded theme, but the seconds hand is blued to provide an interesting contrast. An intriguing fact is that some examples of the Lange 1A had gold seconds hands instead for reasons now lost to time.

The gold elements are also within the watch. Look closely and you’ll realise that both the balance and escape wheel cock are in yellow gold, as is the escape wheel bridge, making this one of the few Lange watches with these components in gold.

But this watch has an extra bit of gold to go along, a rare, original bracelet in 18k yellow gold. Although Lange 1s fitted on a bracelet come along every so often, they are still uncommon. And the fact that the bracelet creates a more casual look for what is usually a very formal watch makes it extra desirable.

The watch is numbered “69/100” and includes only its presentation box and service booklet. This has an estimate of HK$315,000-630,000, or US$40,400-80,800.

Full lot details here.

Preview and auction details

All lots will be on show during the preview exhibition in the run-up to the auction. Both the auction and preview will take place at the JW Marriott Hotel in Pacific Place.

Preview
Open daily May 24-28 from 10:00 am-7:00 pm

Auction
May 27, 2:00 pm (lots 801-963C)
May 28, 2:00 pm (lots 965-1123)

For the full catalogue, as well as viewing appointments and online bidding, visit Phillips.com.

All times are local to Hong Kong, GMT+8.

This was brought to you in collaboration with Phillips.

Launched in 2021, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was one of the simpler models in last year’s lineup but easily appealing. It is the first Lange 1 to have a dial made of aventurine glass, or “gold flux” as Lange labels it, a material rarely found on the brand’s watches but always popular when it makes an appearance.

Conceived as a mens’ watch in 1998 – the average dress watch was still about 35 mm then – the Little Lange 1 has since evolved into a feminine watch. It’s basically the Lange 1 for ladies and the base model for a variety of female watches, often in pastel colours accented with mother-of-pearl or diamonds.

The new Little Lange 1 continues the theme with its sparkly dial, but it stands apart from recent models in several ways; it feels different, perhaps even masculine. We take a close look at the Little Lange 1 to weight its appeal.

Initial thoughts

Thanks to off-centred yet logical displays, the Lange 1 is one of the most distinctive offerings from the German watchmaker. And the starry, aventurine glass dial, along with the moon phase, create a charming, slightly whimsical appeal that isn’t present on the standard models, which are formal and serious looking.

Despite the shimmering, reflective dial, the new model is understated on the wrist, thanks to its dark colours and white metal case. These tone down the sparkle of the dial, which comes from the metallic inclusions in the glass.

More appealing but equally understated are the star-shaped hour markers in alternating size, which might go unnoticed at first glance. They are a first for a Lange 1 and instantly differentiate this from the standard models with lozenge-shaped markers. The star markers are certainly more charming and arguably more notable than the dial material itself, which is also found on other models like the Saxonia Thin.

The date window is rendered in a matte dark blue to match the dial

More than the dial, the new Little Lange 1 is interesting because it is a versatile watch for both genders, despite the fact that model is conventionally a ladies’ watch today. Of the nine Little Lange 1 models in the current catalogue, six are ladies’ watches.

It is a pretty watch, but one that both men and women can wear. In fact, this is a watch I would happily wear. The only thing I would change about the watch is the strap. It’s a seamless strap with a glossy, pearlescent finish that is too feminine for a mens’ watch.

The Little Lange 1 has a modest size of 36.8 mm. It wears small on the wrist, which is good news for collectors who fancy smaller watches. It lacks the majesty of Lange’s big, complicated watches, but that’s exactly what the Little Lange 1 should be – very much a Lange but different.

A charming little watch

Launched just four years after the original Lange 1 debuted in 1994, the Little Lange 1 was created at the result of the brand’s retailer in Southeast Asia, where most buyers gravitated towards smaller case sizes at the time.

Though the original Lange 1 at 38.5 mm is modestly sized by today’s standards, it was large in the 1990s. For comparison, the flagship Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph of the period, the ref. 3970, was just 36 mm.

At almost 37 mm, the modern Little Lange 1 is slightly larger than the 35 mm original of the 1990s, but it feels almost the same and the difference in size is not discernible unless the two are compared side by side. The current version retains the defining feature of the original, namely a small, recessed pusher to adjust the big date, instead of the button that is a signature feature of the full-sized Lange 1.

The rectangular date corrector at 10 o’clock has been replaced by a recessed pusher, mirroring the moon phase corrector at 7 o’clock

Being a mens’ watch originally, the Little Lange 1 was offered in the same muted palette as its bigger brother, including the monochromatic platinum version with a silver dial that has been nicknamed “Stealth”. As mens’ watches grew larger, so did watches for women, resulting in the Little Lange 1 being repositioned.

With its transition to a ladies’ model, the Little Lange 1 was dressed up in fancier livery, mostly notably with dials in mother-of-pearl and guilloche in colours, the occasional model set with diamonds, as well as a range of pastel-coloured straps.

The current Little Lange 1 certainly caters to the female watch buyer, though it is not specifically marketed as such (as is the norm in watchmaking). The latest model, however, strikes a balance that makes it a well suited for both genders.

Compact but still solidly constructed in typical Lange style

Unusually for a modern Lange, the case middle is polished instead of brushed, which is the standard finish for ladies’ watches

Once a Venetian secret

Aventurine glass has been something of a favourite at Lange recently. It’s been found on the Saxonia Thin since 2018 in a variety of colours, though this is a first for the Lange 1.

Despite the name, aventurine glass is not the mineral stone known as aventurine, which is a form of quartz. Instead aventurine glass is actually glass with metallic inclusions.

Aventurine glass, also known as goldstone, is made with technique that dates to the 17th century, when the material was invented by Venetian glass blowers. Fabricating the material requires mixing molten glass with metal oxides, then waiting for the mixture to cool, during which the metal oxides crystallise, resulting in the glittering appearance of the material.

In the case of Lange’s watch dials, the molten glass mixture is poured onto the solid silver dial base and left to cool, allowing it to harden and fuse with the base. The resulting blank can then be lapped or chamfered as needed to create the finished dial.

For a brand that largely sticks to conventional dials with a galvanic or PVD finish in muted colours, the aventurine glass dial is certainly unusual. And the material is arguably a better fit for the Little Lange 1 than the Saxonia Thin, since the moon phase and asymmetric dial lend it more charm.

Here the design is taken to next level with star-shaped markers, a surprisingly whimsical detail from a German watchmaker that is usually conservative. There is only one other Lange with star-shaped elements on the dial, the complicated and limited 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst, which was a far more artistic and artisanal watch.

The dial is actually three discs – the main dial plus two sub-dials. As a result, the registers for the hours and minutes as well as subsidiary seconds are slightly recessed.

Importantly, aventurine glass does more than just dress up the Little Lange 1: it disguises the less appealing proportions of the Little Lange 1.

I find the sub-dials too large for the case on the original Little Lange 1, which reduces the case diameter but retains the same dial as the full-sized model. That gives the dial a constricted appearance with the indications appearing squeezed into a small aperture and positioned too close to the bezel edge.

The sparkly metallic specks of aventurine glass, along with the stars and moon, are the visual focus, making the dial proportions less obvious.

The strap is finished with a pearlescent lacquer that echoes the sparkle of the dial

A tale of two moons

That said, if there’s one thing I would change about the dial, it is the moon phase disc, although strictly speaking that’s more of a movement upgrade.

While it has more stars than the moon phase disc on the standard model, it is mechanically simpler than the display in the full-size Lange 1 Moon Phase, which doubles up as a day-night indicator. That’s a matter of technical constraints, since the double-function indicator requires more height, resulting in an overly thick case for a small watch. Still, it would have been nice to have.

The day-night indicator in full-sized moon phase model is a two-level display: a lower disc with stars and an upper double moon phase made up of two polished moons. Both rotate at different rates, with the lower disc indicating day or night while the moons indicate the age of the moon.

This means the display changes gradually throughout the day, making the dial a bit more interesting. At the same time, the plain, blue area of the disc indicating daytime would contrast well against the aventurine glass.

The moon phase showing daytime on the large model. Image – A. Lange & Söhne

A great view

That brings us to the movement, the L121.2. It is identical to the L121.3 found in the full-sized Lange 1 Moon Phase save for the double-function moon phase display, which could not be incorporated due to case height and dial thickness as alluded to earlier. And despite the different case sizes, two calibres share the same size, explaining the less-than-ideal dial proportions that I mentioned before.

Still the L121.2 is a Lange movement. And Lange watches are coveted for the movement finishing. Why?

The answer is obvious through the open back. For starts, the striping on the three-quarter plate is fine, lustrous, and consistent. The striping is just nice and arguably executed better than movements in similarly-priced watches, which sometimes have striping that’s too heavily applied. Combined with the hue of German silver (which is a brass alloy), and the result is a warm, silky canvas for the rest of the decoration.

That includes the bevelling on the three-quarter plate and bridges, which is rounded and mirror polished. This is done with manually, either by applying the component (which is secured in a vice) against a polishing wheel, or with a hand-held, motorised tools. The result is a smooth edge with no machining marks.

That said, the bevelling contains no inward angles, often a hallmark of top quality hand finishing (albeit not the only element of the art). This is occasionally found in simpler, more affordable examples from establishment brands such as the time-only Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle. Still, I have no complaints because the movement is done extremely well.

Another detail that is classic Lange are the heat-blued screws and gold chatons for the jewels, neither is traditional for Swiss movement, and the latter in particular is an anachronistic feature that reflects Lange’s 19th century inspiration. Notably, some of the exposed pivots and screws on the three-quarter plate are held in polished, bowl-profile chatons, an unusually elaborate execution that is typically unnoticed.

Last but not least is the hand-engraved floral motif on the balance cock that is similar modelled on the brand’s antique pocket watches. The quality of the engraving is on par with the rest of the finishing, which means it is fine, neat, and workmanlike.

Concluding thoughts

With its decorative yet understated dial, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase is a pleasing addition to the lineup that is arguably the only Lange 1 well suited to wrists of both genders.

And for Lange enthusiasts who might already own a few of the brand’s watches, this is different enough to merit consideration. It is more elegant and charming than Lange’s imposing, complicated watches. It easily differentiates itself from a standard Lange 1, differing not only in size and style, especially the whimsical star-shaped markers.

Key facts and price

A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase with Gold Flux-Coated Dial
Ref. 182.086 (white gold)
Ref. 182.886 (white gold with diamond-set bezel)

Diameter: 36.8 mm
Height: 10 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 30m

Movement: L121.2
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; power reserve indicator; outsize date; and moon phase display
Winding: Hand-wound
Frequency: 21,600 bph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Glossy, pearl-finish crocodile with white gold pin buckle

Availability: At A. Lange & Söhne boutiques and retailers
Price: US$49,400 in white gold; US$62,300 in white gold with diamonds

For more, visit alange-soehne.com.

Debuted three years ago, the Odysseus is still a one-model collection with the Datomatic, though versions in different metals are steadily added to the family.

And the latest is the most intriguing to date, because the Odysseus is entirely clad in titanium, marking a first for the German watchmaker.

Initial thoughts

The expansion rate of the Odysseus collection is surprisingly slow given most of its peers have quickly added complicated models such as a chronograph rather soon.

But thankfully the Odysseus titanium is an interesting addition, despite being simply the result of a change in the material.

It is indeed the material that distinguishes the latest, not just from its counterparts but also from the competitors. A natural choice for sports watches, titanium is nevertheless uncommon amongst luxury sports watches, especially when combined with Lange’s peerless finishing.

And Lange certainly knows it’s special, because it is the first limited-edition Odysseus, ever. It’s also the priciest, costing about 40% more than the white gold model, which is exorbitant to say the least – and slightly opportunistic – but demand will doubtlessly outstrip supply.

Titanium and more

While the use of titanium is intruiguing, that alone is certainly not enough to make for a compelling Odysseus, just because Lange has set a high bar for watchmaking.

And it doesn’t disappoint. On top of being end-to-end titanium, the finishing on the case and bracelet is also entirely different. All the brushed has been replaced with a micro-blasted finish, which looks at home with the model, since the Odysseus is a low-key sports watch.

Also new to the model is the greyish light blue dial, which is more understated the the original blue but more captivating than the grey, which I find a bit bland.

The movement is still the same L155.1 Datomatic, which is different form the brand’s other offerings in a having a full balance bridge as well as a higher frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz).

It, however, retains the signature three-quarter plate, though personally I am not a fan when that’s coupled with a winding rotor, which leaves the movement looking a bit bland, at least in comparison with the brand’s earlier offering with a micro-rotor.

Key facts and price

Lange Odysseus Datomatic Titanium
Ref. 363.117

Diameter: 40.5 mm
Height: 11.1 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: L155.1
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day, and date
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet

Limited edition: 250 pieces
Availability: At A. Lange & Söhne retailers and boutiques
Price: €55,000 including 19% VAT, or 80,900 Singapore dollars

For more, visit alange-soehne.com.

A. Lange & Söhne first unveiled their first minute repeater in 2013, in the form of the Grand Complication. It took two more years for the unveiling of a simpler – yet still complex – model in the form of the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater.

Finally, seven years later, Lange unveils the Richard Lange Minute Repeater – a no-frills, classical three-hander with the coveted chiming feature.

Initial Impressions

Surprisingly slim and impressive in terms of acoustics, the Richard Lange Minute Repeater feels like a conservative release from the brand, but one that is much needed in the brand’s lineup – especially for those looking for a classically-styled minute repeater compared to the Zeitwerk.

At first glance, it feels like an odd watch relative to the rest of Lange’s catalogue – we’ve taken for granted that Lange usually designs movement that are distinctively unique, especially for complications. In fact, the minute repeater mechanism and overall layout feel like a traditional Swiss calibre, albeit one with a German aesthetic.

This can be forgiven as there’s only so many ways to design a minute repeater in a classic three-hander. And the brand still innovates – the repeater has practical high-end features compared to most of its peers, such as safety mechanisms and eliminating the pauses between the hour and minute strike.

But arguably the best quality of the watch is its tactile feel. It feels and sounds good on the wrist – the case is unusually thin for a Lange complication, while the chimes are harmonious and loud.

This all comes at a cost. At €409,000, it is only slightly cheaper than the Zeitwerk minute repeater, which is more architecturally unique and a strong brand icon. But within the rarefied realm of the complication, relative cost is less of a factor to the potential owners – now potential owners have the choice of classical or contemporary design.

German Svelte

The overall aesthetics of the Richard Lange Minute Repeater is almost identical to the original Richard Lange Pour Le Merite – both have identical dial layouts as three-handed watches with Roman numerals. Both have three-part dials made of fired enamel that are soldered together.

All of the print on the dial is also fired enamel. That includes the railroad minute track with a single red hashmark at 12 o’clock.

The Minute Repeater has compact dimensions considering the complication – only 39 mm wide and 9.7 mm thick, which is elegantly svelte. That makes it smaller than the Richard Lange Pour Le Merite, which is 1.5 mm wider and 1.0 mm thicker.

The case diameter doesn’t include the minute repeater lever, which sits on the left flank of the case as with most traditional minute repeaters. Conveniently, the watch has a water resistance of 20 m, unlike some other slide-operated minute repeaters.

Swiss style and German innovation

While the external aesthetics are familiar, the movement inside is entirely new. The cal. L122.1 is Lange’s first pure-play minute repeater movement that goes without other accompanying complications.

The calibre number indicates the development history of the movement – the first two digits reveal development of the movement started in 2012, while the last digit indicates that this is the second movement begun in the same year (the first being the L121, which is the base movement of the latest-generation Lange 1).

While not normally visible, stock photos reveal the minute repeater mechanism underneath the dial. At a glance, the mechanism appears familiar – reminiscent of a Swiss minute repeater, which is a little odd coming from a German brand that prides on unusual movement configurations. That said, there are only so many ways a traditional three-hander minute repeater can be constructed.

Still, a closer examination reveals it is a Lange calibre. In its usual fashion, the brand incorporated some useful upgrades.

Most notably, there is a pause-eliminating feature achieved via a modified configuration of the sampling racks. In contrast, traditional repeaters would have a long pause between the hour and minute strikes when there are no quarters to be sounded, in other words during the first 14 minutes after the top of the hour.

An especially useful feature is the safety mechanism of the keyless works. When the crown is pulled out, the repeater cannot be activated – preventing damage to the snail cams and racks that can happened with an adjustment of the time while the repeater is in action.

Conversely, the safety mechanism ensures the crown cannot be pulled out when the repeater is in action. These features are incorporated via a set of interlocking levers, running along 12 o’clock of the movement.

The safety mechanism

Like most Lange watches, the movement is visible via a display case back. The base is of a traditional minute repeater construction – the going train for timekeeping occupies half of the movement, with a large barrel supplying 72 hours of power reserve. The other half of the movement is dedicated to the repeater hammers, secondary barrel for the repeater, and governor.

Aesthetically, the movement is dressed up in typical Lange fashion – the bridges are German silver decorated striping and enhanced with gold chatons for the jewel bearings. And it features a hand-engraved balance cock holding the free-sprung balance wheel, along with a steel swan’s neck for adjusting beat error.

Key facts and price

A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater
Ref. 606.079F

Diameter: 39.0 mm
Height: 9.7 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 20 m

Movement: L122.1
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and minute repeater
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Hand wind
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Crocodile with deployant

Limited edition: 50 pieces

Availability: At A. Lange & Söhne boutiques only
Price: €409,000 including 19% VAT

For more, visit alange-soehne.com.

The watch boutique arm of auctioneer Phillips, London-based Perpetual is staging an exhibition of early A. Lange & Söhne wristwatches in its Berkeley Square showroom for a week starting March 9, 2022.

Made in Germany, a Tribute to the Early Lange 1 and Datograph comprises 20 examples of Lange’s best-known watches from the late 1990s to the early 2000s, including limited editions that rarely emerge publicly, making it an great opportunity for the brand’s enthusiasts to see special watches and even “grails” in the metal, like the extravagant Lange 1A.

Pillars of the brand

Arguably the most important Lange models, at least in the brand’s first two decades, are the Lange 1 and Datograph. Both were seminal when they each made their debuts in 1994 and 1999 respectively, helping to put the brand on the map. And because early days of the German watchmaker saw it debut a large number of small-run limited editions, the variety of watches from that period is particularly interesting.

Lange 1A

The rise in interest that Lange has recently enjoyed means many of the brand’s early or unusual watches are being rediscovered. As a result, the exhibition is perfectly timed. It focuses on the two landmark models, although the line up also includes other intriguing watches like the rare solid-back Saxonia.

One of the best examples of the Lange 1 on show is the ref. 101.027X, which has a handsome blue-on-silver palette that served as the inspiration for the Lange 1 25th anniversary collection. In fact, the exhibition will have two examples of the model on show, with one of them fitted to an original “beads of rice” bracelet. Interestingly, although the ref. 101.027X was not a limited edition, it never officially made it into the catalogue, making it a model known only to insiders for a long time.

The ref. 101.027X

Also interesting, but in a more subtle and specific manner, is the Little Lange 1 in platinum, ref. 111.025. At a glance it might seem ordinary but upon closer inspection it reveals the “MADE IN GERMANY” label in sans-serif font, which is unusual since Lange is best known for its serif typefaces, which play a crucial role in the design of the Lange 1.

Another uncommon Little Lange 1 on show is the version with a blue mother-of-pearl dial that was in production for only a year or so starting from 2015.

A Little Lange 1 in platinum

The back of another early Little Lange 1, this one in yellow gold

In terms of the Datograph, the highlight is doubtlessly the ref. 403.025X “Pisa”, which combines a platinum case with an unusual silver dial. In fact, only 10 pieces were made for the Italian retailer in 2004, making it by far the smallest edition for a Datograph – and Phillips has managed to obtain two of the 10 made for the exhibition.

(Though there was an eleventh watch that was not part of the Pisa edition but almost identical; it was a one-off with the same dial but with a chronograph seconds hand in rhodium-plate instead of a blued steel.

Exhibition details

The exhibition is open to the public from March 9-14, 2022, 10:00 am-5:00 pm daily.

Phillips Perpetual
3rd Floor
30 Berkeley Square
London, W1J 6EX
United Kingdom

For more, visit Phillips.com.