Fresh off the success of last year’s unexpected Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case”, Cartier continues with the theme but now with an newly developed open-worked movement. Making its debut in three variants, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor underscore Cartier’s commitment to the Santos-Dumont, the model that’s truest to the 1904 watch designed for pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont.

Equipped with the cal. 9629 MC that has a plane-shaped rotor, the three references include a pair of regular production models in steel and rose gold, along with a 150-piece limited edition in a striking combination of yellow gold and blue lacquer.

Initial Thoughts

Cartier been using lacquer to decorate its jewellery, watches, and accessories almost since its founding in 1847. While a first for the brand in the modern-day – and also unique amongst watchmakers – last year’s lacquered Santos-Dumont was modelled on a similar 1920s watch, so it makes sense for the Parisian jeweller to continue with the theme.

In this context, the highlight of the Santos-Dumont Skeleton collection is undoubtedly the yellow gold model with navy-blue lacquer inlays. Not only is the lacquer applied to the case and bezel as was the case with last year’s model, but it is applied to the movement bridges.

The combination of lacquer, skeleton movement, and a whimsical plane-shaped rotor instantly sets it apart from other Cartier watches, yet it is still easily recognisable as a Cartier creation. This watch certainly scores well in terms of novelty and coherence.

The steel and rose gold models do not get the lacquer treatment, but do benefit from lacquer decoration on the movement bridges. As a result, they are comparatively plainer but probably also more wearable on a day-to-day basis since the blue-and-gold version is striking to the point of being ostentatious.

The Santos-Dumont Skeleton starts at about US$30,000 for the steel model and rises to about US$40,000 for the yellow-gold limited edition. Comparatively speaking, the limited edition is a more compelling proposition because it is so much more interesting relative to its regular production counterparts.

The monochromatic steel model

Still iconic after 119 years

The Santos-Dumont is named for the Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont, who asked his friend Louis Cartier to make him a watch that he could wear on his wrist while piloting his early, lighter-than-air airships around Paris. Cartier completed the watch for his famous friend in 1904, and the brand commercialised the design in 1911. 

In addition to being a milestone in wristwatch design as a form watch, the introduction of the Santos-Dumont marked a significant turning point in the transition from pocket watches to wristwatches in the early 20th century. It was the first purpose-built men’s wristwatch, and because it was commissioned by an early aviator, it arguably created the pilot’s watch genre, though pilot’s watches quickly evolved into more practical forms.

A Santos from the 1920s that’s in the Cartier Collection

Modelled on the watch designed for the aviator (as opposed to the chunkier and more modern Santos), the Santos-Dumont has been present in Cartier’s offerings more or less continuously since 1911. The jeweller has been working on reinvigorating the Santos-Dumont since 2019, when the brand debuted the first all-new Santos Dumont in over a decade. The design was refreshed by going back in history and bringing back the iconic bezel screws that were missing from the prior model. Cartier then took collectors by surprise last year with the launch of three references with lacquered cases.

The new watch pays tribute to the Demoiselle, the ultra-light aircraft Santos-Dumont developed in 1908 that became the crowning achievement of his career. This tribute takes tangible form: a miniature replica of the Demoiselle made of 18k gold is affixed to the oscillating weight at seven o’clock.  

A new skeleton calibre

Having been developed over the course of about two years, the cal. 9629 MC is entirely new. The movement features an inset micro-rotor that keep the height to just 4.4mm, enabling the watch to retain the elegant proportions that collectors have come to expect from the Santos-Dumont. 

Cartier has been producing contemporary-style skeletonised calibres for more than a decade, but the new cal. 9629 MC takes things up a notch with a more coherent layout. For example, while the earlier skeletonised calibres (like the cals. 9611 MC and 9618 MC) left the lower balance wheel jewel floating awkwardly between skeletonised bridges, the cal. 9629 MC positions the mainspring barrel and balance wheel pivots symmetrically at one and 11 o’clock respectively.

While this symmetry improves the look of the movement, it does come at a cost, namely a very small barrel. This aesthetic trade-off is likely explains the lower frequency of the cal. 9629 MC as well as its 44-hour power reserve, notably shorter compared to Cartier’s other skeletonised movements. 

Key facts and price

Cartier Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor
Ref. CRWHSA0032 (steel)
Ref. CRWHSA0030 (rose gold)
Ref. CRWHSA0031 (yellow gold)

Diameter: 31 mm
Height: 8 mm
Material: Steel; rose or yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: 9629 MC
Features: Hours and minutes
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 44 hours

Strap: Alligator leather strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: Regular production, except for yellow gold model that’s limited to 150 pieces
Availability: At Cartier boutiques and retailers
Price: 

Steel: €27,900 or 44,300 Singapore dollars 
Rose gold: €36,400 or 58,000 Singapore dollars
Yellow gold: €37,500 or 59,500 Singapore dollars

Prices include local taxes

For more, visit Cartier.com

Cartier’s best known watches are often symmetrical and formal, think Tank or Santos, but also animal inspired, most notably the Panthère. But its latest suite of ladies’ watches is unconventional in its mix of forms and finishes.

Inspired by the jewellery collection of the same name, the Clash [Un]limited is edgy, modern, and different from the brand’s usual offerings.

Initial thoughts 

While I can’t profess to be an expert in ladies’ watches, the Clash is both an interesting and appealing design to my eye. It is an intriguing mix of design elements that might seem ill-matched on their face but somehow work well together. So the dial and facetted crystal are obvious retro, but they go well with the studs and balls of the bracelet; the whole is greater than the sum of the parts.

At the same time, the edgy styling of the Clash doesn’t feel like Cartier, which has a predominantly classical or Art Deco house style. In fact, the Clash seems like something from a brand more associated with streetwear, like Louis Vuitton for instance. That said, the colourful variant of the Clash does evoke Cartier’s signature Tutti Fruitti jewellery.

Chic yet eccentric

Launched in 2019, Clash de Cartier was perhaps Cartier’s first collection of jewellery with a distinct streetwear aesthetic, one heavy on studs and spikes. According to Cartier, however, Clash took inspiration from the work of Jeanne Toussaint (1887-1976), the brand’s longtime artistic director who favoured geometric shapes and was responsible for classics like the Panthere.

Regardless of its inspiration, the range of jewellery gave birth to Clash [Un]limited. Chic yet eccentric, the Clash watch is characterised by an articulated bracelet featuring rolling balls as centre links.

While the designs are extravagant, the Clash watches boast surprisingly nuanced detail. The crystal, for instance, has facetted edges, bringing to mind vintage ladies’ watches of the mid 20th century. And the outer links of the bracelet sport alternating brushed and polished finishing.

The collection is made up of five models, two of which are limited edition. All share the same dimensions of 18.4 mm by 32.8 mm and a thickness of 8.1 mm. Naturally, the movement inside a no-fuss quartz calibre.

The base models are either two-tone with violet gold elements or entirely in white gold with diamonds. They all feature a simple silver dial with Roman numerals at the six and 12 o’clock.

The version in rose and violet gold

On the other hand, the limited editions are exuberantly coloured. One is in rose gold with settings of diamonds, black spinel, coral, chrysoprase, and tsavorites. The other is in white gold model with diamonds and black obsidian. Both are matched with a diamond-paved dial.

Key Facts and Price

Cartier Cartier [Un]limited
Ref. CRWGMB0002 (yellow and violet gold)
Ref. CRWGMB0003 (rose and violet gold)
Ref. CRWJMB0004 (rose gold with diamonds, spinels, tsavorites, coral & chrysoprase)
Ref. CRWJMB0002 (white gold with diamonds)
Ref. CRWJMB0003 (white gold with diamonds, spinels and obsidian)

Diameter: 18.4 by 32.8 mm or 18.4 by 32.7 mm
Height: 8.1 mm
Material: 18k rose, yellow gold or rhodium-finish white gold
Water resistance: 30 m
Crystal: Sapphire

Movement: Quartz
Functions: Hours, minutes

Strap: Matching bracelet

Limited edition: Regular production, except for CRWJMB0003 (20 pieces) and CRWJMB0004 (30 pieces)
Availability: At Cartier boutiques and retailers beginning April 2023 for the limited editions, and June 2023 for the regular-production models

Price: 

Small, yellow and violet gold: €30,000; or 44,500 Singapore dollars
Small, rose and violet gold: €30,000; or 44,500 Singapore dollars

Small, white gold with diamonds: €45,000; or 67,000 Singapore dollars

Small, rose gold with diamonds, spinels, tsavorites, coral & chrysoprase: €100,000; or 149,000 Singapore dollars

Small, white gold with diamonds, spinels and obsidian: €105,000; or 159,000 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Cartier.com

Last month, Cartier relaunched the Tank Francaise, a bestseller in the 1990s and early 2000s and also  the first Tank to feature an integrated bracelet. Retaining the design elements of the 1996 original, the new Tank Francaise nonetheless sports a sleeker form and a more modern appearance overall. In many ways it’s not merely a remake but an entirely new watch.

Initial thoughts

When Cartier revealed the revamped Tank Francaise 27 years after the original, I was sceptical for several reasons. One because the original isn’t yet vintage enough to be a classic, but it is old enough that it might be stale. Another is the fact that it has been around for so long – the heyday of the original was the late 1990s but it remained in the catalogue until recently – the design feels too familiar.

So I naturally wondered if the brand would do it justice to the model in redesigning it. After checking out the new Tank Francaise, I can certainly say it is well done and just right (apart from a few minor shortcomings in execution, like the date on the large model).

The large model in steel

The new Tank Francaise retains the style of the original, so it still has a bit of retro, 1990s style but not too much so it manages to look current. It still has the look of the original, with a similar outline and profile, but now with cleaner lines and neater details like a recessed crown. Other details like the brushed finish and sticker-appliqué numerals on the dials adds texture and visual interest up close.

The large model is the only one with an automatic movement and date (so far)

That said, two shortcomings stand out for me. One is the date window on the larger model, which is too small and too far from the edge of the dial. It simply looks out of place and the design would have been better off without it. Another is the the fit of the bracelet end-links; there was more vertical play between the end-links and the case than expected.

More broadly, I hope the Tank Francaise line-up will have more mechanical offerings. Currently only the large model in steel has an automatic movement while all the rest are quartz. The convenience of quartz is undeniable but mechanical movements certainly appeal more to enthusiasts.

In terms of price, the Tank Francaise is fair value by Cartier standards. The large model with an automatic movement costs US$5,500, which places it amongst the most affordable mechanical Cartier watches. However, it is pricey compared to offerings from brands like Tudor or Longines, but the premium is arguably justified by the iconic nature of the Tank design and Cartier’s history as a maker of form watches.

Revamp redux

The original Tank Francaise was itself a revamp of earlier Tank designs, which number several dozen at least. All trace their origins to the very first Tank wristwatch designed in 1917 by Louis Cartier, who took inspiration from the Renault FT light tanks utilised by the French forces during the First World War. Revolutionary in design, the Tank was one of the first form wristwatches ever designed and has enjoyed incredible longevity as a timeless design that’s been constantly restyled to create new incarnations.

One such incarnation arrived in 1996 as the Tank Francaise as Cartier was transitioning away from the low-end Must watches. Characterised by an angular case, it was the first Tank to feature an integrated bracelet that continued the case design. It was first available in stainless steel or gold, as well as a combination of both, and later as a jewellery watch with diamonds and other precious stones on the case and bracelet.

An example of the original Tank Francaise, this one a small model from 2005 in steel and gold. Image – Sotheby’s

One of the “it” watches of the late 1990s and early 2000s, the Tank Francaise was so successful that its sales swiftly reached one million units. Though its popularity faded in later years, the Tank Francaise in its original guise remained in the catalogue until recently, giving it an impressive lifespan of almost three decades.

Nips and tucks

The original Tank Francaise was naturally a watch of the 1990s. Its replacement, on the other hand, has the advantage of 21st century design and production techniques.

As a result, the revamped Tank Francaise boasts cleaner, sharped details. The dials are now entirely brushed, while the original had either a simple grained dial or fancier guilloche dial. And instead of the printed Roman numerals, the dials now feature reflective metallic appliqué stickers that give them a more dynamic look.

The dial finish varies subtly according to the case metal. The steel models feature a vertically-brushed, silvered dial with dark grey Roman numerals, while the gold version has a radially-brushed champagne-tone dial and black numerals. 

The steel version has a silvered dial with reflective, dark grey numerals

While the dial design has changed, the overall aesthetic is still classic Cartier with a railway minute track and blued steel sword hands. The look is appealing, but even though the brushed dials give the new Tank Francaise a more modern look, retaining the guilloche dial, at least on some variants, would have added more flavour to the line.

And in the gold the dial gets a pale champagne finish with reflective, black numerals

It’s worth noting the dial of the large model in steel, which is the only mechanical model and also the only one with a date. When the original Tank Francaise had a date, it would be at six for a symmetrical layout.

Now the date has been moved to the three o’clock position where it unfortunately looks awkward, both because of its position and small size – the date window is disproportionately small compared to the rest of the dial.

Just like the dial, the case and bracelet have been facelifted while preserving the look of the original. The adjustments to the case and bracelet design are individually minor, but together they give the watch a more streamlined and cohesive look.

Amongst the changes are redesigned links that allow the bracelet to flow better into the lines of the case. Another is the crown that sits in a shallow recess on the case side. This lowers the profile of the crown slightly, giving the watch a trimmer silhouette.

The only criticism of the bracelet lies in the end links that reveal a fair degree of play. This is made more obvious since the border between the end links and case on each side is unobscured, long, and horizontal.

Although the redesign results in a more streamlined watch, the new Tank Francaise feels upsized over the original, especially in its largest size. Compared to other Cartier models, the Tank Francaise is not quite as chunky as the equivalent Santos de Cartier, but is certainly more chunky than the Tank Louis Cartier or Santos Dumont.

None of the three sizes of the Tank Francaise are especially large watches, but they feel solid. This was probably intentional on the part of its designers who probably wanted to give it a substantial, bracelet-like feel on the wrist.

In typical Cartier style, the three sizes are labelled simply: small, medium, and large. Only the steel model is available in three sizes. The gold models are only in small or medium, with the option of diamonds on the bezel.

The Tank Francaise in steel

And in 18k yellow gold

Enthusiasts, however, might be disappointed that practically all of the Tank Francaise line-up is quartz (albeit “high-autonomy quartz” that has an eight-year battery life), except for the large model.

It’s powered by the  cal. 1853 MC, which is actually a Sellita SW100. Developed for ladies watches, it’s a no-frills automatic movement that’s a compact 17.2 mm in diameter, explaining its very short power reserve of 37 hours. The caliber is definitely an entry-level movement, but the Tank Francaise is priced as an entry-level Cartier.

The back of the steel model that conceals the Sellita base movement

Concluding thoughts

The revamp of the Tank Francaise was long overdue but done right for the most part. The changes were just right, resulting in a watch that still has the distinctive character of the original, but with neater details and a more hefty feel in hand. Some details, namely the date and end links, should have been executed better, but overall the new Tank Francaise accomplishes what it sets out to do, update a 1990s design to suit modern tastes and manufacturing standards. 

Key Facts and Price

Cartier Tank Francaise
Ref. CRWSTA0067 (large model, steel, automatic)
Ref. CRWSTA0074 (medium model, steel, quartz)
Ref. CRWSTA0065 (small model, steel, quartz)
Ref. CRWGTA0113 (medium model, yellow gold, quartz)
Ref. CRWGTA0114 (small model, yellow gold, quartz)

Diameter: Large 36.7 mm by 30.5 mm; medium 32 mm by 27 mm; small 25.7 mm by 21.2 mm
Height: Large 10.1 mm; medium 7.1 mm; small 6.8 mm
Material: Steel or 18k yellow gold
Water resistance: 30 m
Crystal: Sapphire

Movement: 1853 MC (Sellita SW100) for automatic model; or “high autonomy” quartz
Functions: Automatic has hours, minutes, seconds, and date; quartz has hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 37 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Cartier boutiques and retailers

Price:

Large, steel: US$5,500 or 7,700 Singapore dollars 
Medium, steel: US$4,450 or 6,300 Singapore dollars 
Small, steel: US$3,550 or 4,950 Singapore dollars

Medium, gold without diamonds: US$24,300 or 34,600 Singapore dollars 
Small, gold without diamonds: US$20,900 or 29,700 Singapore dollars

Medium, gold with diamonds: US$30,700 or 43,600 Singapore dollars
Small, gold with diamonds: US$27,500 or 39,200 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Cartier.com

Cartier’s approach to new products is often simply to deftly reboot a bestseller after a few years or even decades. That formula was applied with great acclaim to the Tank Must and Santos-Dumont (though the Pasha revival didn’t quite meet with the same commercial success). Now Cartier is doing it for the Tank Francaise.

First introduced in 1996 as the first Tank with an integrated bracelet, the Tank Francaise was a major seller for Cartier in the decade that followed. Though the model survived well into the 21st century, it remained essentially unchanged since its launch. Though visually similar to the original, new Tank Francaise is an entirely new watch, having undergone a major facelift that preserved the original outline while refining all the details.

The large model in steel with an automatic movement

Initial thoughts

Like many of Cartier’s other entry-level models, the Tank Francaise is an appealing design at a relatively affordable price. The large automatic model in steel, for instance, retails for under US$6,000.

It demonstrates how Cartier does best when it does little. The new design remains easily recognisable, even though every aspect has been revamped, ranging from the applied sticker numerals to the recessed crown. If you liked the original, you’ll probably like this one.

The biggest drawback of the new Tank Francaise is simply that most of the line up is quartz, which will disappoint aficionados of mechanical watches. In fact, only one version, the large model in steel, has an automatic movement. That said, based on past practice it is likely Cartier will fill out the range with more variants as soon as its commercial success is certain.

Actor Rami Malek with the large model

Geometric lines and a bracelet

The redesign of the Tank Francaise appears to be mostly about giving it better details and cleaner lines. So instead of the printed numerals of the original, for instance, it now gets applied metallic stickers that give the dial a little bit more depth.

Naturally the case and bracelet stick to the same design, but practically every detail has been revised. The crown, for example, is less prominent now as it sits in a recess on the side of the case. And the bracelet better integrates into the case design thanks to a single-piece end link and redesigned links that match the case in both style and thickness.

The new Tank Francaise is available in steel or 18k yellow gold. Both the steel and gold models are identical in terms of overall design, though they differ in terms of the dial. The gold models have a champagne-tone dial with radial brushing and black numerals, while the steel models have a silver dial and silver numerals.

The medium model in yellow gold with diamonds

The steel models are offered in three sizes, with only the large model being automatic, while the medium and small models are both quartz. But the gold models are only in medium or small, with the option of a diamond-set bezel.

From left: large, medium, and small

The singular automatic model is powered by the cal. 1853 MC, an automatic movement with a 37-hour power reserve. It’s actually the Sellita SW150, a compact movement for ladies’ watches, explaining the short power reserve.

Key Facts and Price

Cartier Tank Francaise
Ref. CRWSTA0067 (large model, steel, automatic)
Ref. CRWSTA0074 (medium model, steel, quartz)
Ref. CRWSTA0065 (small model, steel, quartz)
Ref. CRWGTA0113 (medium model, yellow gold, quartz)
Ref. CRWGTA0114 (small model, yellow gold, quartz)

Diameter: Large 36.7 mm by 30.5 mm; medium 32 mm by 27 mm; small 25.7 mm by 21.2 mm
Height: Large 10.1 mm; medium 7.1 mm; small 6.8 mm
Material: Steel or 18k yellow gold
Water resistance: 30 m
Crystal: Sapphire

Movement: 1853 MC (Sellita SW150) for automatic model; or “high autonomy” quartz
Functions: Automatic has hours, minutes, seconds, and date; quartz has hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 37 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Cartier boutiques and retailers
Price:
In steel, from 4,950 Singapore dollars for small model, to 7,700 Singapore dollars for large model
In gold, from 29,700 Singapore dollars for small model without diamonds, to 43,600 Singapore dollars for medium model with diamonds

For more, visit Cartier.com

Correction January 18, 2023: The 1853 MC is a Sellita calibre and not an in-house movement.

Launched to mark 50 years since the original was created by the jeweller’s London workshop, the Cartier Pebble was also perfectly timed to ride the wave of interest in vintage Cartier form watches that began during the pandemic. Looking much like the original but with enough tweaks to set it apart as a modern timepiece, the Pebble reissue is the second commemorative reissue after the Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary from two years ago.

With only six large-size Pebbles made by Cartier London in the 1970s, the original Pebble was long a peculiar watch known only to a few Cartier aficionados. The reissue has changed that, but it is a limited edition of only 150 pieces, a small enough number that it will leave some would-be buyers disappointed.

Initial thoughts

A hair’s larger than the vintage original, the reissue is a smallish watch by modern standards at 36 mm in diameter but feels larger than that due to the form. In fact, 36 mm is probably the largest it can go without changing the shape; any larger and it will resemble a dinner plate.

On the wrist it cuts a striking figure and unlike other vintage remakes, the new Pebble might pass for a modern watch thanks to its novel form. Minor adjustment have been made to the design of the reissue that give it a more refined appearance than the original. The Roman numerals, for instance, have tighter lines. The result is a watch that looks thoughtfully designed.

Everything about the reissue is executed well, case to dial to crown, everything except for the strap. The calfskin strap almost feels synthetic and definitely lacklustre, but fortunately that’s an easy fix, particularly since the watch is delivered with a pin buckle (the lack of a folding clasp will certainly be shortcoming for traditionalists).

Priced at about US$45,000, the Pebble reissue is pricey. To quote our earlier story on the launch of the reissue: “The Pebble is twice as expensive as the Santos-Dumont lacquered case in gold that has the same movement, and 50% pricier than the Tank Cintrée 150th that has an arguably finer, thinner calibre.”

The pricing feels right for the times, at least until mid-2022 when financial markets started to seriously wobble. Watch brands often set retail price based on the state of the market during good times. The phenomenon probably explains why the Lange Odysseus in titanium costs almost twice as much the same thing in steel.

But of course many of Cartier’s time-only form watches sell for large sums – and collectors are more than happy to pay. An obvious comparison is the Crash that was also created by Cartier’s London workshop. But the Crash was made in larger numbers, enough that is widely known. The fact that its shape is Dali-esque also contributes to its status in the popular imagination.

A Crash made in London, circa 1990

On the other hand, the Pebble was esoteric until the reissue came along. For one, the original was produced in smaller numbers than the Crash and never really talked about until two vintage examples sold for six-figure sums last year. And while novel, the Pebble is certainly not as imaginative as the Crash. Consequently, the Pebble doesn’t rank high up with the Crash as one of the most important form watch designs.

That said, the Pebble reissue is unquestionably an intrinsically appealing watch that is interesting in terms of design and also feels good on the wrist. It gets almost everything right, except for the price.

Artfully remade

Elegantly simple, the Pebble is just a square within a circle. But it is almost entirely rounded on all planes – even the square has round corners – giving it an almost sensuous feel.

At 36 mm in diameter, the reissue is wider than the original by about one millimetre. The proportions are also slightly different, resulting in the reissue appearing to be bigger than its 36 mm.

The construction of the case, however, appears to the identical to the original, at least on the outside. The back is secured by four screws, while the lugs take the form of tiny stubs that protrude downwards from the case middle. These unobtrusive lugs create the visual illusion  that the strap flows seamlessly into the case.

A less obvious difference between the reissue and the original is the crystal. The original’s PlexiGlas crystal appears to be more domed and thicker than the sapphire crystal on the reissue. This is another element that contributes to the reissue looking contemporary.

Like the Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary reissue of 2020, the Pebble remake has a parchment-tone dial that gives it a faintly vintage feel. But because everything about the dial is crisp and clean, it is unmistakably a modern creation.

The dial of the reissue is undoubtedly superior to that of the vintage originals. Most Cartier London watches, like the originals were, had dials with printing that was of questionable quality. In contrast, the reissue’s dial is finely grained and neatly printed.

The dial also now incorporates the Cartier “secret” signature within “VII”, as is tradition for modern Cartier watches but absent on the original. Another notable change is the Cartier logo under 12 o’clock. It now takes the form of the jeweller’s modern-day logo, while the originals all featured a retro cursive logo that is no longer used.

Solid mechanics

Under the solid back sits the cal. 430 MC. Made by Piaget, the movement is also known as the cal. 430P. It was introduced in 1990 and is one of the longest-lived movements in Piaget’s line-up with a reliability that’s been proven by its longevity. In fact, it is robust enough that both Cartier and Piaget have used the movement as a base for a variety of other calibres.

The cal. 430 MC is frequently found in Cartier’s form watches because it is compact in both height and diameter – measuring 2.1 mm by 20.5 mm – allowing it to fit inside small or narrow cases. It’s almost the default movement for the brand’s small, manual-wind watches like the Santos-Dumont lacquered case.

But the size brings with it a small mainspring, which limits the power reserve to just 38 hours. That’s equivalent to about a day in everyday wear, which means this watch has to be wound daily to keep it running.

Key Facts and Price

Cartier Pebble-Shaped Watch
Ref. CRWGPB0003

Diameter: 36 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: 18k yellow gold
Water resistance: 30 m
Crystal: Sapphire

Movement: Cal. 430 MC
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Hand-wound
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Calfskin with pin buckle

Limited edition: 150 pieces
Availability: Now at Cartier boutiques and retailers
Price: CHF42,7000; €40,000; or 63,500 Singapore dollars

Prices include local taxes

For more, visit Cartier.com.

Continuing with the series of limited editions for its 50th anniversary, Singapore retailer Cortina has just debuted a new take on one of Cartier’s most overlooked timepieces, the Baignoire Allongée MM “Cortina Watch Golden Jubilee Edition”.

A limited edition of just ten watches, the new Baignoire Allongée retains the classic form, but with a subtle twist in the form of a “50” in Cortina’s corporate colour, while the case is tastefully set with diamonds.

Initial thoughts

Cartier has evidently realised a new generation of watch enthusiasts has discovered its classic shapes, explaining its frequent reissues and reinterpretations of famous models. The new Baignoire Allongée is classic Cartier, both in terms of form and design, as well as the discreet details that make it a limited edition.

When I first saw this Baignoire Allongée, the first thing that came to mind was its elegant, timeless look. It could equally be a mid-century watch or even one from the 1920s. At the same time, as is often the case with Cartier’s form watches, one immediately notices how different it is from other bejewelled watches, which are often flashy and loud.

Notably, the Baignoire Allongée Cortina retails for just under US$40,000, an eminently reasonable ask considering its diamond-set case as well as in-house movement.

While it is expected that this limited model will immediately sell out, the Baignoire Allongée is unique enough that I hope it will return, particularly in a larger format as a men’s watch. In fact, I wish Cortina had created a pair of limited editions for its anniversary, this medium-sized model for women, and an extra-large size without diamonds for men.

Returning to a classic

Cartier London released the Baignoire Allongée in the late 1960s as an oversized variation of the original, compact Baignoire that was unveiled in 1957. The original, in turn, was inspired by an earlier timepiece made for Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna in 1912.

The artisans of Cartier’s London outpost conceptualised the Baignoire Allongée in the Swinging Sixties, the same period that gave birth to the Crash and Pebble. The elongated shape takes its cues from a bathtub – hence baignoire, which translates as “bathtub” – while the Arabic numerals on the dial add a touch of classicism. Only a handful of London originals were produced in the 1970s, but the Baignoire Allongée has recently enjoyed a revival.

In 2021, a previously unknown example in white gold sold for a record €364,000 at auctioneer Monaco Legends. And earlier this year, a more conventional yellow gold example from 1969 sold for US$176,775 at Bonhams. It is unsurprising that Cortina chose this emblematic timepiece for its Golden Jubilee lineup.

The Cortina edition is a medium-sized Baignoire Allongée and retains the oversized feel of the 1960s original. But a few details have been tweaked for this limited edition. For one, the 18k rose gold case bears a commemorative engraving on the case back. And of course the bezel is diamond pavé, while the crown is topped with a diamond cabochon, giving the watch a regal presence.

More unusually, the silvered opaline dial has Arabic numerals in brown, but the five o’clock marker has been replaced by burgundy “50”, a reference to the anniversary.

Like the standard models in the present lineup, the new Baignoire Allongée is powered by manual-wind cal. 1917 MC, a small in-house movement developed for ladies’ watches with narrow cases that’s also found in the Tank Louis Cartier. The compact size of the movement explains its relatively short 38 hours of power reserve.

Key Facts and Price

Cartier Baignoire Allongée MM “Cortina Watch Golden Jubilee Edition”
Ref. 278426CX

Diameter: 47 mm by 21 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: 18k rose gold, set with diamonds
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 1917 MC
Functions: Hours, minutes
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Burgundy alligator leather strap with an 18k pink gold pin buckle

Limited edition: 10 pieces
Availability: Only at Cortina Watch
Price: 56,500 Singapore dollars including GST (equivalent to US$39,900)

For more, visit 50thanniversary.cortinawatch.com.

Widely anticipated due to inadvertent appearances on social media, the Cartier Pebble has now been officially announced, continuing the jeweller’s strong of vintage reissues like the Tank Cintree 150th Anniversary of 2020.

Formally known as the Pebble-Shaped Watch, the reissue is a limited edition of 150 pieces to mark 50 years since the original, which was conceived by Cartier London a few years after the Crash. While not as famous as the Dali-esque sibling, the Pebble is a simple yet distinctive design in the best tradition of Cartier – a square dial rotated 45 degrees from the horizontal within a perfectly round case.

Initial thoughts

Although not especially well known before last year’s record auction result for a vintage example, the Pebble is an easily recognisable design. At 36 mm it’s modest in size by modern standards, but stands out with its clean lines and peculiar but pleasing shape.

The remake smartly sticks closely to the original, so much so that they will be almost identical at a distance. For fans of Cartier’s classic and quirky style, the Pebble reissue is appealing – albeit at a steep price.

The Pebble is twice as expensive as the Santos-Dumont lacquered case in gold that has the same movement, and 50% pricier than the Tank Cintree 150th that has an arguably finer, thinner calibre. The Pebble is a winner in terms of execution but the price is difficult to stomach.

Sometimes known as the “baseball”

The Pebble belongs to the group of oddly-shaped watches produced by Cartier London – then independent from its counterparts in Paris and New York – in the late 1960s and early 1970s. The Crash famously made its debut in 1967, while the Pebble arrived five years later.

While 2022 is the 50th anniversary of the model, the launch of the reissue is timed impeccably for another reason: an original example from 1972 was sold at Phillips in May last year for just over CHF400,000. And a month later an example from 1975 sold at Bonhams for slightly less.

The Pebble from Phillips’ May 2021 sale. Image – Phillips

According to Bonhams, only six large Pebbles – measuring about 36 mm in diameter like the reissue – were produced. Five were yellow gold with a cream dial, while one was in white gold with a black dial. But not all Pebbles were identical; most had their lugs underneath the case like the reissue, while the example sold at Bonhams has visible lugs, giving rise to the “turtle” nickname.

Modelled on the streamlined version of the vintage original, the reissue retains almost identical design and proportions. Amongst the more obvious tweaks is the inclusion of the Cartier “secret signature” at seven o’clock, as well as the modern-day Cartier logo below 12 o’clock instead of the italic emblem found on the original.

The Pebble is equipped with the cal. 430 MC, a hand-wind movement with a 38-hour power reserve. Made by Piaget where it is known as the cal. 430P, the movement is thin and compact, making it the go-to calibre for Cartier when it comes to smaller, manual-wind watches like the Santos-Dumont lacquered case.

Key Facts and Price

Cartier Pebble-Shaped Watch
Ref. CRWGPB0003

Diameter: 36 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: 18k yellow gold
Water resistance: 30 m
Crystal: Sapphire

Movement: Cal. 430 MC
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Hand-wound
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Calfskin with pin buckle

Limited edition: 150 pieces
Availability: Now at Cartier boutiques and retailers
Price: CHF42,7000; €40,000; or 63,500 Singapore dollars

Prices include local taxes

For more, visit Cartier.com

Originally conceived as a pilot’s watch when it was created over a century ago – as one of the first-ever wristwatches in fact – the Santos is not even remotely sporty in the modern sense of the term. Instead the Santos is an elegant watch that is quintessential Cartier.

Earlier this year, the Parisian jeweller recently gave its trademark square watch a bold makeover when it debuted the Santos-Dumont Large Model Lacquered Case. Featuring a bezel and case covered in lacquer, the new Santos-Dumont was unexpected and certainly one of the most intriguing iterations of the models to date, yet it easily feels like quintessential Cartier.

The steel version with black lacquer

Initial thoughts

The lacquered Santos-Dumont is an achievement given that the original is so established, perhaps the bestselling square watch in history. Though the case is inspired by a vintage Santos with a lacquered bezel dating from the 1920s, the new Santos-Dumont still feels satisfyingly original. It obviously reimagines a familiar design, one so familiar it might have even become tired, but manages to translates it into something entirely different.

A pair of vintage Santos watches from around 1910, both part of the Cartier Collection

In fact, the lacquered Santos-Dumont stands apart not only from earlier Santos models but also the competition. While brightly-coloured dials are now common for dress watches, the same cannot be said of the case. As a result, this is one of the most interesting Cartier watches from a design perspective, which is an achievement, especially since the Santos has been around for so long.

A homage to the 1904 original, the Santos-Dumont XL with a striking two-tone case is certainly an elegant everyday watch but one that is very conservative in style

While I appreciate traditional Cartier designs for their grace, such vintage-inspired pieces don’t offer much in terms of innovation or novelty. That isn’t a criticism per se, such designs are meant to resemble the originals after all, but the many iterations of an old design does diminish the appeal of the latest model.

The lacquered models, however, are classical in form but novel in execution, which gives them more character. With the case and bezel unchanged, the trio are evidently old-school Santos, but the lacquered inlays make them special enough to be memorable. In fact, I imagine they will age well and still be fondly remembered a long time from now.

The platinum model with burgundy lacquer

And the pricing certainly adds to the appeal. All three versions cost only slightly more than their non-lacquered equivalents, making each of them a compelling buy within their price category.

Notably, the new Santos-Dumont is offered in stainless steel, which is uncommon for Cartier watches with a special finish or design as those tend to be limited editions. More importantly, the steel version costs under US$6,000, which is good value considering not just the unusual execution but also the ultra-thin, hand-wind Piaget movement inside.

Large but just right

The new case decor, along with the new concentric-cube patterned dial, help distinguish the new model from its more ordinary counterparts in the Santos-Dumont line. In fact, both the case and dial are unique in the brand’s catalogue, though I expect this won’t be the last of either given the strong commercial debut of the model.

A lacquered case, however, isn’t for everyone. Perhaps to cater to as many as possible, Cartier has created three starkly different variants ranging from the most subtle in rose gold and cream to the daring in platinum and burgundy.

My favourite is the version in warm rose gold

In between the two polar opposites in precious metal is the black-lacquered version in steel that calls to mind the Santos with a ADLC-coated bezel. This new model, however, this is more coherent in terms of style since the bezels and lugs are matched in black lacquer.

The rose gold case is matched with rich, cream lacquer

There are three versions of the watch, but all are the same “Large” size, in between the Extra-Large and Small models.

Interestingly, this in-between size is the least numerous of the three in terms of variety, as it is typically used for limited editions or pricier, precious metal models.

On the other hand, Small models are the most affordable, but very small and the only size that’s quartz, while the Extra-Large case is very flat and wide and is available in all metals including steel.

7.3 mm from back to crystal

It makes sense for the platinum and gold versions of the lacquered Santos-Dumont to be in the compact Large case since it’s a more elegant size, but the steel-and-black model should arguably be Extra-Large given its more contemporary feel.

The steel model looks just right with formal wear, so I like it as it is, though I imagine a larger size would give it the versatility to be a casual, everyday watch.

Lacquered panels

Regardless of the size, it’s the lacquered inlays that make this special. Flush with the case such that it seems to be a thin painted layer, the lacquered decoration is actually an inlay.

It’s done in a three-step process that starts with engraving the a Santos-Dumont case to create recess for the lacquer. The narrow recesses are filled with synthetic lacquer and then baked in an oven to set, before being polished to create a smooth, flush surface. The last step is the application of a thin layer of clear, protective varnish over the lacquer, which is necessary as the lacquer is softer than steel.

Pictured here are the prototypes, explaining the less-than-tidy lacquering on some edges

The rest of the case is identical to that of the standard Santos-Dumont and finished simply but well enough to give the watch a sense of refinement that is certainly meets the requirements demanded by the price.

Two elements stand out: one is the mirror-polished bevel along the edge of the case, while the other is the elaborate, studded crown capped with a cabochon that is classic Cartier style. But it serves a practical purpose as the studs improve grip and facilitate hand winding.

The platinum version gets a ruby cabochon on the crown as is tradition at Cartier, while the other versions get a blue spinel

And a new dial

The classic Cartier dial is silvered and either grained or guilloche, but in recent years more finishes have become more varied and adventurous. Take for instance the latest Tank Must that has dial with a two-tone finish that’s the result of electrochemical texturing.

In the same vein, the new Santos-Dumont has an unconventional finish. It’s essentially a modern guilloche that’s made up of deeply grooved lines in a concentric cubic pattern, with the lines widely spaced so the aesthetic is entirely modern.

The concentric cubic pattern is a first for Cartier and still unique in the line up. It is a perfect match for the Santos case, however, so I expect to see it in other models.

A detail that emphasises the concentric cubic pattern is the contrast-colour railroad minute track, which is matched by an identically coloured logo under 12 o’clock. Both are done in colours that stand out from the dial, on the platinum model for example they are printed in burgundy.

The minute track in particular is a subtle but bold detail that complements the dial pattern by echoing the case colour and functioning as a visual border for the dial.

At a distance, the milled lines on the dial are less obvious on the cream dial and almost invisible on the black dial

Upon closer examination, it becomes clear that dial is very different from traditional engine turning or even stamped guilloche. Though the lines appear to be printed in relief from some angles, they are actually deeply engraved.

The profile of the grooves and their corners reveal that the lines are machined – almost certainly milled with a round-tipped drill bit in a CNC machine – rather than stamped as is typical for guilloche dials in watches in this price range. The rationale for the engraving finish lies in the fact that a negative stamping die necessary for such a deep pattern will probably create slightly distortion in the dial surface.

With help from Piaget

Finally, the movement within the watch is the cal. 430 MC, the same calibre found in most hand-wind Cartier watches for men. It’s actually the extra-thin Piaget cal. 430P, a compact round movement that’s just 20.5 mm wide and 2.1 mm tall, making it suitable for form watches. For comparison, the de facto small hand-wind movement when it comes to ETA’s offerings, the Peseux 7001, is just over 23 mm in diameter and 2.5 mm thick.

Having been used extensively by both Piaget, Cartier, and a few other Richemont brands for decades, the cal. 430 MC has been proven to be dependable. It is presumably also cost efficient, explaining why the steel version of the lacquered Santos-Dumont costs what it does.

That said, its age means the cal. 430 MC has a modest power reserve of just 38 hours despite a low frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz). That’s short by modern standards, especially where three-day movements are increasingly the norm, but a quarter-century ago the industry standard was 40 hours or so. The short power reserve is also explained by the small dimensions, which means the mainspring is short and flat.

Though the calibre is hidden behind a solid back, the finishing will surely be similar to that of past Cartier and Piaget models with an open back. That means it’s likely to be neatly but industrially finished.

The case back bears an engraving of Alberto Santos-Dumont’s signature that’s filled with lacquer to match the case

Concluding thoughts

The standard Santos-Dumont watches are elegant but conventional, while the Santos-Dumont Lacquered Case is special because it is different yet still elegant. It is arguably one of the few reinterpretations of a black-tie watch that is bold.

Given the fact that the precious metal versions of the watch are limited editions in relatively small runs, the lacquered case might also be collectible. That said, for a brand as large as Cartier, nothing is really ever a one-off, so I would imagine the lacquered case will make an occasional comeback given how good it is.

Key Facts and Price

Cartier Santos-Dumont Large Model Lacquered Case
Ref. CRWSSA0046 (steel, black lacquer)
Ref. CRWGSA0054 (rose gold, beige lacquer)
Ref. CRWGSA0053 (platinum, burgundy lacquer)

Diameter: 43.5 mm by 31.4 mm
Height: 7.3 mm
Material: Steel, 18k rose gold, or platinum
Water resistance: 30 m
Crystal: Sapphire

Movement: 430 MC
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Hand-wound
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 150 pieces in platinum, 250 pieces in rose gold, while steel model is regular production
Availability: Now at Cartier boutiques and retailers
Price:
Steel – €5,300, or 8,500 Singapore dollars
Rose gold – €12,600, or 20,000 Singapore dollars
Platinum – €16,800, or 26,600 Singapore dollars

Prices include local taxes

For more, visit Cartier.com

Taking place from October 16-30, Into the Wild Experience is an exhibition dedicated to the Cartier’s Panthère, the all-encompassing line of timepieces, jewellery, and accessories for both men and women. Covering almost 6,000 square feet across eight rooms, the exhibition explores the origin of the line and showcases its diversity.

Named after the big cat now synonymous with the jeweller, Panthère made its debut in 1914 with a ladies’ wristwatch covered in diamonds and onyx spots resembling a jaguar’s fur. The animal has since inspired a remarkable range of objects ranging from rings to watches, many of which will be on displaying during the event.

Jisoo, a member of chart-topping South Korean girl group Blackpink, wearing Panthere articulated jewellery

Into the Wild Experience takes place from October 16-30, 2022 at Bayfront Pavilion, Gardens by the Bay. The event is open to the public, but registration is required to attend. For more, visit Intothewild.cartier.sg.

Having been at Cartier for almost four decades, Pierre Rainero is part of the institutional memory of a jeweller that was founded in 1847.

He is the brand’s “Image, Style and Heritage” director, a post he has held since 2003 and one that also puts him in charge of the Cartier Collection, the brand’s own trove of historical timepieces, objects, and jewels that numbers over 1,500 items – the physical manifestation of the jeweller’s storied history.

Mr Rainero’s title, along with his encyclopaedic knowledge of the house, means he determines whether something – anything really, ranging from watches and jewellery to marketing and strategy – is truly Cartier.

We spoke with Mr Rainero during Watches & Wonders 2022 to unravel the process behind the development of new watches at Cartier. And he also tells us about the time Igor Stravinsky had a Cartier clock thrown at him.

The interview was edited for clarity and length.

SJX: Congratulations – it’s an impressive collection [launched at Watches & Wonders].

Pierre Rainero (PR): Thank you, thank you.

SJX: The Crash is incredible of course.

PR: Indeed, it’s just a step further [than we usually go]… It’s always difficult to rework the Crash because it’s such a statement in itself, so here was a certain finesse needed to take it further. In this case we capitalised on the original shape, but created something something else entirely because of the decoration, colours, and how it is perceived.

The Crash Tigrée

SJX: And the Masse Mystérieuse is just fascinating.

PR: For me the Masse Mystérieuse says a lot about our founding principles, especially the importance of purity of concept. You know we have mystery clocks, which are already fascinating, but this adds on a complication that is very Cartier in terms of style.

The original premise for this watch was to push the boundaries of transparency and lightness, while the technical construction had to obey the original idea in terms of [pure] aesthetics, so a movement in a half-moon shape had to be invented. All the little elements of a movement had to fit that shape, but the weight of the movement was also a challenge.

SJX: Cartier hasn’t done something so complex in quite some time. Why did you decide to launch this now?

PR: This project started eight years ago. It seemed even more Cartier than any other complication, because of the aesthetics and the kind of magic you see in mystery clocks – where is the movement? The Masse Mystérieuse is magic but also not an illusion because you can see the movement, but the movement is spinning around. It’s something unique that expresses the facets of who we are.

The Masse Mystérieuse with the entire movement contained within the oscillating weight

SJX: You also launched the Tank Chinoise. It is obviously an old, famous design, but you revived it in a slightly different way. Most historical models were square with rounded edges and Breguet hands. This is quite different even though it has the same two bands [on the top and bottom of the case].

PR: What you say is interesting because it’s exactly the question we had to answer – how we play with different elements, how to keep it very much in line [with the past], but also make it different.

For myself, when I see a project like this, I approach it in different stages. Because I have so much [of the brand’s history] in mind, everything that is [new and] different can seem weird at a certain moment. The more you think of past, the more you are attracted to it, so you should be very careful and keep in mind that we should do something slightly different. So you have to take your time to decide – is this right or not right – and you have to be cautious with your first reaction.

SJX: So for watches like this, what was your thought process in deciding it’s right or not right?

PR: There’s no specific reason. Sometimes there are [new projects] that may not be my personal taste, but I have to make a distinction between my personal taste and what I think is right or not [for the brand and its history].

SJX: That means something that fits the codes of the brand, even if it’s not for you on a personal level.

PR: Exactly. That’s to escape from the danger [of imposing my personal preferences] as I told you.

But there’s another trap that I can’t fall into – an intellectual construction where everything is right [in theory] and all the little boxes are ticked, but the final result is not right. Then I have to forget all my knowledge of Cartier, take a step back and ask is the object beautiful?

SJX: You mention your knowledge of Cartier – you probably know everything, which must make it difficult.

PR: Never. I always say to people – especially those who are convinced that I know – that I don’t know enough. When we have an item or object that comes in for authentication, sometimes we say this is not us, but I learned to never say never, because no one knows the entirety of our [historical] production. I still encounter many surprises in what I discover in our work, so we have to be cautious.

SJX: So how does the process work when the designers come to you with a new design? Do you suggest something you remember from the archives?

PR: It’s more complex than that. Usually we agree very much in advance with the commercial and marketing people about the direction. But at the same time, we have a great proportion of our clients who are collectors, so we have to keep them mind.

We decided to work on [the Tank Chinoise for instance], and we all agreed that it was a good a good start because of the [historical] inspiration. We had to make the decision whether to be rectangular in order to make it different [from the earlier version]. Afterwards we worked with the designers in many different ways, especially because the proportions [of the rectangular case] were totally new, so the designers proposed a new design and how to integrate all the technical parts.

SJX: Do you draw inspiration from outside of watchmaking to create new models?

PR: Of course. This is a real point of distinction for Cartier. The library that Cartier puts at the disposal of our designers is not about watchmaking; a few books are about jewellery, but most of them are about architecture, applied arts of all kinds, interior design, fabrics. It’s almost systematic in how we take inspiration from other things. This probably helps explain the originality of Cartier’s point of view both for jewellery and watchmaking. 

SJX: Then I have a difficult question for you. Which watch from Cartier’s history that is not in production today but you wish would come back?

PR: If I the answer to that question, I will put you on the way [to our new launches] so I will not answer that question. [laughs]

I was telling you about the distinction I have to make between my personal taste and what I think is good for Cartier. Maybe because of these long years I spent at Cartier, I think Cartier’s style becomes mine. So there are many shapes, many shapes [from the past I like].

Sometimes we receive special orders for shapes that existed in the past but not anymore. They are very costly because we have to develop [a new watch from scratch] and all the costs of development are just for one watch. But some clients still go for it and they usually pick the most interesting shapes.

SJX: Turning to another aspect of your job, you also oversee the Cartier Collection of antique items and objects. Are there any items within the collection that have interesting stories that really stuck in your mind?

PR: I think there’s a funny story about [a clock]. We don’t have this clock in the collection, but it was a gift from [Igor] Stravinsky to [Sergei] Diaghilev. The two had a fight, Diaghilev took the clock and threw it at Stravinsky – but it did not break.

SJX: Where is the clock now?

PR: I don’t know but it’s definitely broken by now [laughs].

There’s another anecdote I like because Stravinsky was one of our clients and he had a Tonneau. The watch was launched in 1906 and he was wearing it. When Picasso did a portrait of Stravinsky, he drew the Tonneau as well, so there’s drawing by Picasso of Stravinsky wearing the Tonneau.

The 1920 drawing of Stravinsky by Pablo Picasso, with the outline of a Tonneau wristwatch visible on the composer’s left wrist

SJX: Speaking of celebrities, I noticed recently several celebrities wear Cartier watches like the Crash. The brand is often associated with historical figures, but less with contemporary celebrities. How do you think this will evolve?

PR: That’s an interesting questions because this is something we discuss ourselves. It’s very easy to see our creations worn by celebrities, but most of it is natural – we don’t pay them to do it and we neither do we lend it to them.

We do have some people we call “friends of maison“. Such people should choose the object they wear as we don’t like to impose anything on them, and the people themselves should be in line with our values. We like the idea that such persons chose us, and over years we built very, very good relationships with many of them.

SJX: Thank you so much, it’s a fascinating conversation. I hope to see more interesting creations inspired by the archives in the future. And I have a final question, what was your first Tank?

PR: The first Tank watch I got was a Must Tank mechanical with an ivory dial. My mother wears it now.