Perhaps the most distinctive of all Radiomir designs, the “California” was nonetheless absent from Panerai’s catalogue for some time. Now it makes a comeback as the Radiomir California PAM01349.

Essentially a cooler (and more expensive) version of the new Radiomir “Otto Giorni”, the PAM01349 preserves the signature features of the design, including the dial and blue hands, but works in a few concessions to modern tastes, including a smoked green finish for the dial as a scaled-down, 45 mm case.

Initial thoughts

The California has long been my favourite Radiomir so I am glad it is making a comeback. While it looks slightly vintage, the PAM01349 is clearly not a vintage reissue, which is a good thing. The combination of a green dial and aged case is an appealing one.

However, the PAM01349 costs about 20% more than the Radiomir models with the same movement, a premium that isn’t grounded in any tangible features and thus hard to justify.

Romans and Arabics

The dial is classic “California” with Roman numerals on its top half and Arabic numbers on the lower half. Originally designed for legibility so each half of the dial is easily distinguishable from the other, the California dial was synonymous with the Radiomir.

The PAM01349 preserves the original design, but the texture and colour are contemporary. Like most other recent releases, the dial has a grained surface and smoked finish, both in keeping with current tastes. The dial treatment gives the watch a vintage feel, but avoids looking like a vintage remake since it is clearly a modern aesthetic.

Down from the 47 mm of the original and earlier California models, the case is 45 mm. Like other recent Radiomir launches, it is made of “Brunito” eSteel. The alloy is formed from recycled steel and then given a “burnished” (brunito in Italian) finish that involves polishing, black coating, and then tumble-polishing to partially wear off the coating, resulting in a worn appearance.

Inside is the P.5000, Panerai’s basic long-power-reserve movement. No frills and hand-wind, it has a long running time of eight days.

Key facts and price

Panerai Radiomir California
Ref. PAM01349

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: eSteel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 mm

Movement: P.5000
Features: Hours, minutes and small seconds
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: Eight days

Strap: Calf leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: Regular production
Availability: At Panerai boutiques only
Price: €12,500; or 17,900 Singapore dollars

For more information, visit Panerai.com.

With a distinctive style inspired by historical military dive watches, Panerai has pivoted to a more contemporary aesthetic in recent years. This year the brand is once again looking back into its history with the Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01347 and PAM01348. Both models are modelled on historical designs but executed in modern colours and finishes.

Initial thoughts 

Both watches are essentially facelifted versions of the Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992, sharing the same dial layout and in-house manual movement. While the PAM00992 was historically inspired (though not a remake of any one model), the newly launched pair is clearly more modern.

The two watches are clearly targeted at someone who likes the Panerai style, but wants something more current in terms of colours and textures. With that in mind, the PAM01347 and PAM01348 are sensible and successful new launches.

Both watches use recycled steel for the case, but more notable is the “aged” case finish that goes well with the textured, smoked dial.

Otto Giorni

Like most Radiomir models, the PAM01347 and PAM01348 are rooted in the dive watch developed by Panerai (and produced by Rolex) in 1935 for the Italian navy.

With its distinctive cushion case and wire lugs (recognisable as a Rolex pocket watch with additional, soldered lugs), the Radiomir is one of Panerai’s signature models alongside the Luminor.

While the historical Radiomir was a massive 47 mm in diameter, more recent Radiomir models are 45 mm,  as is the new pair, making them more wearable.

The case is made of eSteel, an alloy made from recycled scrap steel. Named “Brunito” (Italian for “burnished”), the aged finish on the case is the result of a multi-step process that starts with sandblasted and polishing, followed by a black PVD coating that is finally partially removed by tumble polishing. 

Inside the 45 mm case is the P.5000, an in-house manual movement with an eight-day power reserve, hence the nickname “Otto Giorni”, Italian for “eight days”.

The other key element that makes up the Panerai aesthetic is the dial.  Simple and minimalist in design, the dial is constructed in the brand’s trademark “sandwich” style, consisting of a lower plate painted with Super-Luminova markings and an upper plate with corresponding cut-outs. Both models have the same textured dial with a smoked finish that darkens towards the edges.

Key facts and price

Panerai Radiomir “Otto Giorni”
Ref. PAM01347 (brown)
Ref. PAM01348 (blue)

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: eSteel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 mm

Movement: P.5000
Features: Hours, minutes and small seconds
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: Eight days

Strap: Calf leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: Regular production
Availability: At Panerai boutiques and retailers
Price: €9,900; or 14,200 Singapore dollars

For more information, visit Panerai.com.

Historically a maker of military dive watches, Panerai has since evolved into a maker of distinctively-styled sports watches encompassing complications and precious metal cases. The watchmaker has just revealed an all-gold version of its trademark dive watch as a unique piece conceived for a good cause and a special occasion, the Luminor Marina Automatic PAM01501.

Engraved to indicate it’s a one-off creation, something Panerai rarely does, the PAM01501 will go under the hammer during the upcoming charity gala dinner for Kidz Horizon Appeal, a Singapore-based charity that funds medical treatment for children from disadvantaged backgrounds, which will take place on October 29, 2022.

The PAM01501 is engraved with “1/1” on the back

Initial thoughts

The PAM01501 is a metallic olive green – certainly a familiar colour. But keep in mind Panerai was one of the first brand to utilise green as a dial colour, most famously for the Submersible Bronzo a decade ago.

This happened well before the current fad for green dials, so Panerai is sticking to historical precedent rather than jumping on the bandwagon. In fact, the green dial and rose gold case brings to mind the original Bronzo, which had a similar palette (before it developed a patina).

But the crucial point is that the PAM01501 distinguishes itself by being a unique piece, and one for a good cause no less.

For the kids

Founded in 2004, Kidz Horizon Appeal (KHA) is a Singapore charity that supports children with chronic diseases but whose families lack the means to pay for treatment. The funds raised by KHA go to a fund maintained by the KK Women’s and Children’s Hospital, a medical institution that focuses on treating mothers and children.

KHA has raised 14 million Singapore dollars (or about US$9.85 million) to date, with a good portion of the money coming from unique watches sold at its annual gala dinners. The watches have included a unique Vacheron Constantin Chronometre Royal with a blue enamel dial and a one-off Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Skeleton in titanium with a Cermet bezel.

This year’s Panerai comes courtesy of a Singapore businessman who is an avid Panerai collector. He commissioned a one-off Panerai and then donated it to KHA for its charity auction. In fact, the Panerai is merely the latest watch he has contributed to the charity. In years past he has donated watches by Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, and Hublot.

The winning bidder will be reminded of his or her generosity by “Kidz” engraved on the crown-locking lever

The PAM01501 is based on the standard 44 mm Luminor Marina Automatic, but made unique by its combination of case material and dial colour.

The dial is a metallic olive green with a radially-brushed finish that’s similar to that found in the limited-edition platinum version of the Luminor Marina Automatic. While the case is made of Goldtech, the brand’s proprietary 18k red gold alloy with a higher-than-average copper content to give it a redder hue, while also incorporating a dash of platinum to render it resistant to fading.

Key Facts and Prices

Panerai Luminor Marina Automatic “Kids Horizon”
Ref. PAM01501

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Goldtech
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: P.9010
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: Three days

Strap: Olive green alligator strap with an additional rubber strap in green

Limited edition: Piece unique
Availability: To be sold at Kidz Horizon Appeal Gala Dinner 2022 on October 29, 2022
Price: Not applicable, but to bid on the watch contact Ms Christine Gwee of Kidz Horizon Appeal

For more information, visit Kidzhorizon.sg and Panerai.com.

A compact take on the signature Panerai watch that made its debut in 2016, the Luminor Due is essentially a scaled-down version of the military-inspired original, which allows it to wear easily on smaller wrists. To date, the Luminor Due has remained minimalist, making do without complications save for a date display.

But now Panerai gone for something slightly more elaborate with the Luminor Due Luna that has a small seconds and moon phase display featuring a solid-gold moon disc.

Initial thoughts

I like the compact size of the Due, as well as its more formal styling that allows it to double as a dress watch. Although the original, full-size Luminor is a clean, almost elegant design, its massive size and stark aesthetics means it can only be a military-style watch. The Due, on the other hand, manages to preserve the outline of the original Luminor while being modestly elegant.

For that reason, the new Luna is an appealing watch. At just 38 mm wide, it is clearly more wearable, while the engraved, solid-gold moon gives it a bit of sparkle. And the all-gold model comes along with a mother of pearl dial, making it even more luxe.

Interestingly, the Luminor Due is largely targeted at female clientele, but models have a masculine aesthetic. That continues with the Luna, which is available in steel with a metallic blue dial, a combination leaves it looking very much like a conventional men’s watch.

The dial design is largely classical Panerai, although the proportions seem a little off due to the small diameter of the dial. Both the hour markers and twin sub-dials feel too big compared to the case, giving the face an exaggerated aesthetic, though the layout was probably done with legibility in mind.

It’s worth pointing out the P.900 movement inside is an entry-level calibre used by several brands within Richemont in addition to Panerai. The movement is no-frills, but adequate enough considering the retail price of the Luna, which places it amongst at the affordable end of Panerai’s range of automatic watches.

Naturally, the Luna is clearly too fancy to be anything close to a traditional Marina Militare Panerai, so it is definitely something not for traditionally-minded collectors. But for someone who just wants the Panerai look without the large size or no-frills design, it is a useful alternative.

A golden moon

The Luna makes its debut with four variants, ranging from a base model in steel that has a “sun-burst” brushed dial to the top-of-the-line gold model with mother-of-pearl dial.

Notably, the steel model is also available with a matching bracelet in the trademark Panerai design. It’s made up of links modelled on the Luminor crown-lock bridge, which have brushed outer sections and polished centres. The weighty bracelet will certainly give the Luna more heft.

But the highlight of the Luna is the moon phase at three o’clock. Sitting within a traditional semi-circular aperture, the moon phase disc is a two-piece construction of a gold moon against the night-sky background. But the moon is actually a disc of solid, 24k gold that’s been engraved with dimples to reproduce the craters on the actual lunar surface.

The night-sky background, on the other hand, has a finely grained finish with scattered, engraved spheres that represent the stars. Though the stars are less elaborate than the golden moon, they are more unusual than the printed stars found on most moon phases.

While the metallic dial in the steel model has a “sandwich” construction, the mother-of-pearl in the gold Luna gets an appropriately luxe dial of mother of pearl with applied markers

Inside the watch is the P.900/MP, an automatic movement with a three-day power reserve. It’s finished in the brand’s usual minimalist styling, with neatly brushed bridges and blue-filled engraving. The movement, however, is only visible on the gold versions as the steel models have a closed case back.

Though customised for Panerai, the P.900 is actually a calibre developed by Valfleurier, the behind-the-scenes movement specialist that supplies many Richemont-owned brands. Conceived as a no-frills workhorse for entry-level models, the movement is also known as the Cartier 1847 MC (found in the latest Pasha for instance), the IWC 32000 family (found in the base-model Pilot’s Watch), and the Baume & Mercier Baumatic.

The P.900/MP

Key Facts and Prices

Panerai Luminor Due Luna
Ref. PAM01179 (steel, blue dial, strap)
Ref. PAM01180 (steel, white dial, strap)
Ref. PAM01181 (gold, mother of pearl dial, strap)
Ref. PAM01301 (steel, white dial, bracelet)

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 300 m

Movement: P.900/MP
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, moon phase
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: Three days

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle or steel bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Panerai boutiques and retailers
Price:
PAM01179 – US$9,300, or 13,100 Singapore dollars
PAM01180 – US$9,300, or 13,100 Singapore dollars
PAM01181 – US$20,600, or 29,200 Singapore dollars
PAM01301 – US$10,100, or 14,300 Singapore dollars

For more information, visit Panerai.com.

Traditionally all about vintage-inspired, “Marina Militare” dive watches, Panerai has recently been rolling out complications with a minimalist, contemporary execution, such as the recent Luminor pepertual calendar.

Sharing a similar aesthetic perhaps more practical – and certainly more affordable – is the new Luminor BiTempo PAM 1360 and PAM 1361, a GMT wristwatch with striking baby-blue accents on a blue or black dial.

The PAM 1361 with a radially-brushed blue dial

Initial thoughts

Given its large diameter and clean dial, the Luminor accommodates complications well while still maintaining its characteristic minimalist style – if the additions are integrated properly. Panerai managed that with the BiTempo, which manages to incorporate a date, second time zone, and power reserve indicator without hindering the recognisable Panerai aesthetic. In fact, the BiTempo could pass for a time-only Luminor from across a room.

That said, the second time zone isn’t a new complication for the brand – the movement is an existing calibre – so the novelty is mainly in the facelift that changes dial details like the enlarged date display and blue accents. While I appreciate that the baby blue indicators are legible, I find the colour overly pastel for the low-key, military-inspired styling.

Legible both day and night

Twin time zones

The BiTempo has a 44 mm Luminor 1950 case with its trademark crown guard. The “sandwich” dial has the signature Luminor layout with oversized Arabic numerals at the quarters, but with additional indicators for the date, GMT, and power reserve indicator.

The PAM 1360 with a matte black dial

The dual time zone display is done as cleanly as possible thanks to the cal. P9012. The movement has a 12-hour GMT hand for the second time zone instead of the usual 24-hour hand, which eliminates the need for an additional 24-hour scale. And the GMT hand can also be hidden under the local-time hand when not in use, further enhancing the minimalism of the dial.

That said, the 12-hour format for the second time zone means it’s not possible to discern day and night from the dial, so the wearer has to know that.

Fortunately only the tips of the hands are coloured in blue

While the dial design is simple, the execution is slightly more elaborate than on Panerai’s entry-level models. It has the two-piece, “sandwich” construction that reveals the hour markers through apertures in the dial.

Interestingly, the dial design departs slightly from the traditional Panerai dial with a printed minute scale, something that is traditional absent from Panerai dials.

Earlier models lack the bevelling on the date window, which gives the watch a sense of luxury

Panerai has several two time zone calibres in its stable, with the P.9012 in the BiTempo being one of the more upscale. Amongst other things, the P.9012 is powered by twin barrels that give it power reserve of three days.

Beyond its obvious features, the P.9012 also has a zero-reset, hack seconds – the seconds hand halts and instantaneously flies back to 12 o’clock when the crown is pulled to set the time, a useful feature rarely found in watches in this price range.

The movement is visible through the display back and has the typical Panerai aesthetic of an almost monochromatic, industrial finish of matte, brushed bridges.

Like many Panerai movements, the P.9012 has a full balance bridge for improved shock resistance

Key Facts and Prices

Panerai Luminor BiTempo
Ref. PAM01360 (black)
Ref. PAM01361 (blue)

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 300 m

Movement: P.9012
Functions: Hours, minutes, zero-reset hack seconds, GMT, power reserve indicator
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: Three days

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Panerai boutiques and retailers
Price: Unavailable at press time

For more information, visit Panerai.com.

Launched quietly in May this year, the Radiomir Bronzo PAM00760 is the first substantially new Radiomir model in a long time. Besides being the first Radiomir with bronze case, the PAM 760 is also the first “Events Edition” – a limited-production model that will only be available during dinners hosted by Panerai chief executive Jean-Marc Pontroué.

Oversized and cleanly designed in the historical Panerai style, the Radiomir Bronzo is also the first step in the rejuvenation of the Radiomir line, which will see the addition of several new models in 2023. According to Mr Pontroué, the Radiomir will now be a range of watches that are largely historically inspired in terms of design. With that in mind, I would expect the “California” dial to return.

Available at dinner, and maybe lunches too

Initial thoughts

Big, thick, and looking very much like a Panerai on the wrist, the Radiomir Bronzo is appealing to anyone who likes the old-school Panerai look. While it does look like a typical Panerai, the Radiomir Bronzo manages to be fairly novel, at least as novel as a Panerai can be while still retaining its trademark design elements.

Besides being the first Radiomir in bronze – past models in the metal were all Submersibles – it also has a textured dial that’s fairly novel for the brand. But the textured finish is combined with traditional elements, a “sandwich” construction and blued hands. Overall it’s a good look, although I find the stitching on the strap excessive.

The textured dial in smoked green

While not a limited edition model, the Radiomir Bronzo is limited in terms of availability – it will only be available during dinner events hosted by Mr Pontroué. Consequently, its annual production should be in the low hundreds, making it a fairly uncommon watch, which does add to the appeal.

The PAM00760 is powered by the P.3000

I like the look, I like the feel, and I like the way it’s being sold since limits production numbers – even if the event-only availability is slightly pretentious.

However, I don’t like the price – retail is US$17,800 – which is just over double that of a comparable steel Radiomir. The price would have been more palatable if the watch had been executed with a more elaborate dial – for instance a precious metal dial plate – or a higher-end movement.

Rather than being priced according to its intrinsic features as well as the rest of the catalogue, the Radiomir Bronzo has been priced according to the high secondary market values of the brand’s other bronze watches. In one respect, however, the price is fair: the Radiomir Bronzo costs almost exactly the same as the Submersible Bronzo PAM00968, which is similarly too expensive for what it is.

Price aside, the Radiomir Bronzo is a compelling watch and certainly a good promising indicator of what’s to come for the Radiomir line.

The Submersible Bronzo PAM00968

Patina and wire

The case of the Radiomir Bronzo is made of the same bronze alloy Panerai uses for the Submersible Bronzo models. Primarily copper with a bit of tin, the alloy has a bright, coppery tone when new but quickly darkens as the patina develops, a result of surface oxidisation of bronze.

Typically the alloy develops a dull brown hue over time, though in extreme cases of oxidisation it can be covered in verdigris. A modest patina is appealing and adds to the dive-instrument aesthetic, but too much and it resembles something lost at sea that no one wants to find. (In contrast, the alternative bronze alloy used in watchmaking by brands like Tudor develops a brown-grey patina due to its high aluminium content).

Like Panerai’s other bronze watches, the case has a brushed finish that helps the process of oxidisation. The brushed finish also gives the watch a convincing maritime instrument aesthetics.

And it has a titanium case back naturally. A case back in steel or titanium is the norm for bronze watches simply because prolonged contact with bronze can cause an allergic reaction.

The brushed finish helps with the oxidisation process

The titanium back is screwed down

The “Pre-V” style buckle is bronze

The case is 47 mm in diameter, which is the largest Radiomir size and the one truest to the historical originals. While the 47 mm sounds large, it doesn’t wear as large due to the wire lugs that sit close to the case. The case is, however, very thick at about 16 mm high and looks the part.

The bulbous look is compounded by a domed crystal of PlexiGlas. Though the plastic crystal is not scratch resistant – and it creates a minor visual distortion of the edge of the dial – but PlexiGlas does have a slightly vintage flavour that goes well with the watch.

There’s nothing I would change about the case, except for the strap. The “box X” stitch on both sides of the strap is unsightly and also unnecessary since this type of stitch is usually meant for reinforcing two pieces of material. Fortunately, swapping straps on a Panerai practically synonymous with the brand.

A green sandwich

With the large Arabic numerals at the quarters, the dial is classic Panerai with both an engraved logo under 12 o’clock as well as a sandwich construction, both details inspired by the dials on vintage originals.

And the Super-Luminova is a familiar ecru, which suits the look perfectly. While such faux-vintage lume is overused today, Panerai was one of the first brands, maybe even the first, to do make liberal use of the substance, so it looks and feels correct here.

The novelty of the dial lies in the graduated colour and textured surface. At the centre it’s a dark green that quickly darkens towards the edges, enough that the edge of the dial is black. Notably, the dirty green harks back to the dial colour of the original pair of Bronzo watches, which were arguably the best looking of the Submersible series.

The smoked finish is combined with a granular, stamped texture that hasn’t been widely used by Panerai (yet). At a distance the grained surface gives the dial an aged appearance that pairs well with its general aesthetic.

All the elements of the dial work well together, well enough that I expect Panerai will iterate the same elements into new combinations for future models.

In fact, word has it that Panerai will unveil a pair of new Radiomir models with near-identical dials at the end of the year. The PAM01334 and PAM01335 will have dials in grey and blue respectively, along with a case in “aged” steel like the Radiomir PAM00992.

No-frills mechanics

The Radiomir Bronzo is powered by the same calibre found in most of Panerai’s hand-wind 47 mm models, the P.3000. It’s a simple workhorse conceived to replace the even simpler Unitas movement widely used in the earlier generation of Panerai watches.

The aesthetics of the movement are typical of Panerai – the bridges are large and linearly brushed, while the decoration is neatly done by machine

The engraved text on the bridges is filled with blue lacquer, a trademark feature of Panerai’s in-house movements

While the construction is straightforward and the finishing industrial, it does have two useful features, namely the free-sprung balance and twin mainsprings that provide a three-day power reserve.

The P.3000 is good enough for most of the watches it’s found in, but considering the price of the Radiomir Bronzo it could do with a fancier movement or even a P.3000 that’s been dressed up in some form.

The four-arm balance with adjustable regulating weights on its rim

Concluding thoughts

The Radiomir Bronzo is appealing on several levels. It has a largely traditional Panerai design while still being different in terms of materials and style. And the case material is one strongly associated with Panerai, more so than most other brands. The strap, however, doesn’t work but fortunately that’s an easy fix.

But the Radiomir Bronzo is pricey, though that hasn’t dampened demand as its 2022 production run is already sold out.

Key Facts and Prices

Panerai Radiomir Bronzo
Ref. PAM00760

Diameter: 47 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Bronze
Crystal: PlexiGlas
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: P.3000
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Hand wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Aged leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: No but limited availability
Availability: Only at Panerai dinner events hosted by Jean-Marc Pontroué
Price: US$17,800; or 24,500 Singapore dollars

For more information, visit Panerai.com.

Continuing its evolution from military watchmaker to one with a broader and civilian repertoire, Panerai introduces the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269.

A variant of the minimalist Luminor perpetual calendar first unveiled last year, the PAM1269 has a dial made of tinted sapphire that reveals the concentric calendar discs underneath. And like many recent Panerai limited editions, the PAM 1269 is accompanied by an “experience”, in this case a trip to Florence (plus an NFT).

The reverse of the watch includes the year and month displays, along with the power reserve indicator

Initial thoughts

If I were to just skim through the new watch releases of the year, I would have missed this Panerai because at a distance, it looks like any other Panerai. But it is more than that.

Apart from being just a smartly conceived perpetual calendar, the watch includes an all-expenses-paid trip to Florence curated by Panerai. Given Panerai’s historical connections to Florence and its status as a leading luxury watchmaker, I imagine the trip would be filled with experiences impossible to obtain otherwise.

The dial is open-worked yet highly legible

Putting the trip aside, the watch itself is a marvel of clarity – a lot of information is displayed on the front and back in a manner as minimal as possible. The comprehensive display includes a second time zone and four-digit year indicator.

Notably, the indicators on the front are also linear – everything is contained on a horizontal axis from nine to three o’clock, giving it a clean, balanced aesthetic.

The PAM1269 costs twice as much as last year’s perpetual calendar in gold, a disparity that’s primarily due to the Florence trip, although the fact that last year’s model sold out easily no doubt contributed to the higher price.

Concentric rings

The sapphire dial displays the inner workings of the calendar, revealing the twin discs for the day and date display that are framed in gold. All of the hour markers are applied, and naturally executed in the traditional Panerai style with Arabic numerals at the quarters and batons in between.

The seconds register at nine has a frosted, matte finish that contrasts against the shiny sapphire dial

Retaining the trademark Luminor form of a round bezel on a square case with a crown locking mechanism, the 44 mm case is Goldtech, an 18k gold alloy that includes platinum. 

Within is the automatic P.4100 that runs on energy stored in the two barrels wound by a 22k micro-rotor. The movement beats at 4 Hz and has a three-day power reserve.

The three-quarter plate of the movement includes displays for the month, year, leap year, and power reserve, which helps explain the concise dial on the front.

Each owner of the 33 examples of the PAM1269 will be invited to visit Florence and the surrounding Tuscan countryside. It will be a trip through the brand’s heritage – Panerai was founded in the city – and also an immersive experience of the city’s food, culture, and history.

The trip will include an NFT that includes information about the trip as well as other perks after the trip.

Key Facts and Prices

Panerai Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo
Ref. PAM01269

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: 18k gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: P.4100
Functions: Hours, minutes, zero-reset hack seconds, GMT, day-night indicator, and perpetual calendar
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: Three days

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 33 pieces, each including a trip to Florence and associated NFT
Availability: Only at Panerai boutiques
Price: €78,000 including taxes

For more information, visit panerai.com.

Following the recent return of platinum to Panerai’s line up, the brand is continuing with precious metals, but this time with a far more elaborate movement boasting a perpetual calendar and GMT.

Despite its complications, the Luminor Perpetual Calendar – available as the Goldtech PAM 742 or Platinumtech PAM 715 – is smartly designed, with a clean dial that’s typical of Panerai, clean enough it resembles as a day-date Panerai at a glance.

Initial thoughts

Arriving in a Panerai wristwatch for the very first time (though there was the co-branded Panerai-Ferrari FER015 of 2007), the perpetual calendar was only incorporated in one other Panerai timepiece, the uber-complicated planetarium clock made in 2014 to commemorate Gallileo Galilei.

While simpler, the perpetual calendar wristwatch doesn’t disappoint, with its concise calendar display. While the complication is now common, few brands can boast calendar displays that are both distinctive and legible – Moser being one of the few. Perhaps more important for Panerai than any other brand, given the simplicity of its trademark design, the streamlined display means the Luminor Perpetual Calendar still looks very much like a typical Panerai.

Unlike the recent time-only Platinumtech Luminor with blue hands, the Perpetual Calendar has pink gold hands that blend into the olive background better

As the dial being the familiar Panerai design, it falls to the case materials to distinguish Luminor Perpetual from the standard offerings. The 44 mm case of the perpetual is identical to that of the standard Luminor, but it no doubt feels more impressive thanks to the unusual heft. Between the pair, the Platinumtech PAM 715 stands out, especially with its striking, olive-green dial with a radially-brushed, metallic finish.

Being a top-of-the-line model – the Platinumtech PAM 715 costs just under US$70,000 – the watch is unsurprisingly kitted out with the aesthetic details associated with Panerai, which naturally includes a “sandwich” dial. But more importantly, the perpetual calendar movement is interesting, both visually and technically.

The free-sprung balance is secured by a full balance bridge

Practical functions

Despite the fuss-free aesthetics, the Luminor Perpetual packs in a lot. Most obvious is the perpetual calendar, which separates the calendar into two faces – the most useful day and date on the front, leaving the month and year for the back – with everything set via the crown. Notably, because the calendar is gear based, it can be set at any time, even around midnight, with no risk to the mechanism.

Notably, the back is streamlined just as the front. The month and leap year are indicated via a triangular pointer near the crown, read against a pair of concentric disks, with the month on the outer disc and leap year on the inner disc. And the year display is unfailingly legible, being displayed in full with four digits.

A power reserve indicator resides near the micro-rotor

At the same time, the Luminor Perpetual doubles up as a travel watch, since it has a GMT hand on the front, which can be conveniently hidden under the hour hand when not in use. And the small-seconds register at nine is combined with the day-and-night indicator, which helps with setting the calendar and also works in conjunction with the GMT hand to indicate home time.

Based on the brand’s first micro-rotor movement, the P.4000, the P.4100 in the Luminor Perpetual unsurprisingly has a similar layout. So it includes a twin, stacked barrels as well a pair of grande sonnerie-style winding clicks that are unfortunately hidden under the micro-rotor. And also a seconds hand that resets to zero and hacks when the crown is pulled out.

Key Facts and Prices

Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar
Ref. PAM00742 (Goldtech)
Ref. PAM00715 (Platinumtech)

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Gold or platinum alloy
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: P.4100
Functions: Hours, minutes, zero-reset hack seconds, GMT, day-night indicator, and perpetual calendar
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: Three days

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 100 pieces
Availability: Only at Panerai boutiques
Price:
Goldtech – US$47,200; or 67,700 Singapore dollars
Platinumtech – US$67,800; or 97,100 Singapore dollars

For more information, visit panerai.com.

Panerai’s latest is unusual relative to its recent launches that are clearly contemporary designs – the Radiomir Eilean PAM 1243 is a traditionally-styled special edition that commemorates the eponymous sailboat built in 1936, the year the brand started supplying the Italian military with its waterproof wristwatches.

Panerai acquired Eilean in 2006, after its former chief executive Angelo Bonati – a keen sailor with a fondness for old school sailboats – spotted the derelict yacht in Antigua. Three years of restoration made it seaworthy again, and now the boat occasionally sails as a roving ambassador for the watchmaker.

While its outline and layout are familiar, the Radiomir Eilean incorporates details not commonly found on Panerai watches, such as the pinstriped dial inspired by the teak deck of Eilean. And the case has a special, “aged” finish first seen on the Radiomir 8 Days PAM 992 of 2019 that’s simultaneously shiny and matte, giving it a lived-in feel but not quite vintage.

Engraving is done on the case side, leaving the dial clean

Initial thoughts

The Radiomir Eilean has most of the features that make for an appealing Panerai wristwatch, including a good-looking palette and discreet, interesting details across the dial and case – except for the oversized Eilean emblem on the case side. The mix of new and old in the design will not be for everyone, but I like it.

Particularly attractive are the vintage-y colours, which have all been used before, but still look good. The dial is a deep brown, accompanied by gilded hands and markers, giving it a warm appearance that brings to mind a classic sailboat. It does use faux-vintage lume, which suit the dial colours well.

Importantly, the dial avoids trying too hard to look like an exact vintage remake (which was no doubt the designers’ remit). The deep, vertical striations on the dial give it a modern twist that goes well with the design.

The retro look continues on the case, which avoids trying too hard and settles for looking gently worn. Like the dial, the case has a muted finish, in contrast to the mirror polish that’s conventional for the Radiomir.

If the Radiomir Eilean looks familiar, it’s because it is rather similar to the Radiomir Venti “Paneristi” introduced late last year. Unlike the Paneristi watch that had an extraordinary large emblem on the dial, the branding on the Eilean edition is less blatant, although the yacht’s logo on the case side is still unattractive.

Almost the entire case back is a logo, but fortunately it’s not visible on the wrist

At US$8,100 the Eilean is expensive, costing almost twice as much as entry-level models with the same cal. P.6000. And it’s about 25% pricier than the Paneristi edition, which was almost identical in spec. For what it costs, the Eilean should have a fancier movement, such as the eight-day calibre found in the similarly priced PAM 992.

Still, the Radiomir Eilean is one of the more attractive watches in Panerai’s line up, especially in its unusual combination of traditional design and modern additions. In that sense, it is a more compelling buy than entry-level models that are quite staid.

A legendary yacht

Launched in 1936, Eilean is a ketch, or two-masted sailing yacht, designed by Scotsman William Fife, an accomplish naval architect who completed some 600 vessels in his lifetime.

Originally built for Scottish brothers who were steel merchants, the boat changed hands several times over the 20th century before ending up in English Harbour, Antigua, where it was rescued by Mr Bonati.

Eilean‘s sail number – the equivalent of a license plate for boats – is 449, which explains the 449 pieces of the Radiomir Eilean that will be made each year.

The Radiomir Eilean’s case is 45 mm of “patina steel”, which is a standard steel alloy that’s been treated to create an aged finish. It’s first mirror polished and then bead-blasted, giving it a finish in between shiny and matte.

Inside the case is the in-house, hand-wind cal. P.6000 that has a handy power reserve of three days.

Key Facts and Prices

Panerai Radiomir Eilean
Ref. PAM01243

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Patina steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: P.6000
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Hand-wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: Three days

Strap: Calf leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: 449 pieces per year
Availability: Starting July at Panerai retailers and boutiques
Price: US$8,100; or 11,600 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Panerai.com.

I admit that I wasn’t much of a Panerai fan. Nothing against the brand – it’s just that large, military-inspired watches aren’t my cup of tea.

However, I’ve always been intrigued by the loyalty and enthusiasm that the brand engenders in Paneristi, its most loyal aficionados. In a nod to that following, Panerai launched a limited edition for the 20th anniversary of the Paneristi forum last year – the sixth watch created for the community. Few brands have their own watch forum, much less one that has lasted two decades. Clearly, there’s a lot of love for Panerai watches, and I’ve always wondered what lay behind that.

When Panerai offered me the chance to test-drive the Luminor Logo 44 mm PAM01084, the latest version of its entry-level model, it was the perfect opportunity to venture outside my comfort zone and see what Panerai is all about.

Initial thoughts

The PAM 1084 is very much what I had expected.

Let’s start with the positives. One is a utilitarian and eminently legible dial that is quintessentially Panerai – I never had an issue telling the time. Another is the classic Panerai case with its signature, oversized crown-lock bridge. And at 44 mm, it has significant wrist presence, but doesn’t feel overly large due to its short, sloping lugs. There is substantial heft to the watch, but it comes across as reassuring rather than bulky.

And despite being one of the most affordable references in Panerai’s current lineup, the PAM 1084 retains much of the DNA that defines Panerai – it is instantly recognisable as a Panerai, even from across the room.

However, several details give away the fact that it’s an entry-level model (the “Logo” watches were originally conceived as just that).

For one, the PAM 1084 does not have a “sandwich” dial, instead the luminous markings are printed on the dial. More significantly, the solid case back is a press-fit, rather than screw-down back. Lastly, the water resistance of 100 m is middling at best, undermining the military dive watch history somewhat.

Entry-level

When Panerai started making watches once again in 1993, after a hiatus when it solely produced dive and timing instruments, one of its first models was the Luminor 5218-201/A that was inspired by vintage military-issue watches Panerai once made for the Italian navy.

Known as a “pre-Vendome” model because it was produced before the brand was acquired by Richemont (then known as Vendome Luxury Group), the Luminor 5218-201/A along with a handful of other “pre-V” models became highly desirable timepieces by the early 2000s. Part of the catalysts for that decade’s Panerai mania was the film and sports celebrities who wore one, with one of the pioneer owners of a Panerai being Sylvester Stallone, who sports a Luminor 5218-201/A in the 1996 film Daylight.

Mr Stallone with the Panerai on his right wrist in Daylight

The PAM 1084 shares many similarities with the Luminor 5218-201/A, a look that defined Panerai for most of its last three decades.

And the PAM 1084, despite being entry-level, is closer to the Luminor 5218-201/A than many of its fancier peers in the current catalogue. The 5218-201/A did not have a sandwich dial, and neither does the PAM 1084.

The PAM1084 case is polished throughout, while the crown-lock bridge is satin-brushed. That case finishing is historically accurate; the 44 mm Luminor case has been finished in this way since the “pre-V” watches.

It is, however, simple. A more varied finish like that found on the larger Luminor models would be a welcome improvement since 1993. And the polished case can be a fingerprint and scratch magnet, which undermines its billing as a military tool watch somewhat.

Solid and simple

Nevertheless, despite its simplicity the Panerai case is excellent quality. It is large, rigid, and robust, while also having flat, well-defined surfaces and edges, which are uncommon for stamped cases with simple forms. It’s not quite the level of Grand Seiko, but still acceptable given its price point. Admittedly, for what this costs, the case should be well done, and it is.

Inside is the manual-wind P.6000. Introduced in 2018, this fuss-free, in-house movement is found in many entry-level Panerai watches, replacing the ETA Unitas movements that powered previous iterations of the Luminor 44 mm.

The P.6000 boasts three days of power reserve, a marked improvement from the 56-hour power reserve of preceding generations. Unfortunately, the movement is hidden under the solid back. Earlier generations of the Luminor “Logo” that were equipped with a Unitas movement had exhibition case backs, so it’s a shame that the in-house calibre isn’t visible in this latest iteration, even if the movement isn’t dressed up.

Concluding thoughts

The PAM 1084 is an affordable way to enjoy the distinctive Panerai style, managing to capture the essence of the brand at a relatively affordable price. It makes an iconic design accessible.

Compared to other popular entry-level military watches, the PAM 1084 is slightly higher priced, but justifiably so. Legible, robust alternatives such as the IWC Mark XVIII and Breitling Avenger Automatic can be had about US$4,000 mark – or about a quarter less than the PAM 1084 – but they are powered by modified ETA (or equivalent Sellita) movements. At the same time, their designs are more generic, and less of the icon that the Luminor is.

When I first tried on the PAM1084, my opinion about it was lukewarm. However, it grew on me – to my surprise – and looked better on my wrist than I had initially expected. By the end of the loan, I was reluctant to return it, and missed it afterward.

There’s something about the watch that endows it with unmistakable masculinity. It got me seriously thinking about adding a Panerai to my collection, something which I would never have considered before. Perhaps one day I too will be part of the Paneristi – I definitely came away with a newfound appreciation for the brand.

Key Facts and Price

Panerai Luminor Logo 44 mm
Ref. PAM01084

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 13.05 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. P.6000
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Calfskin with an additional rubber strap

Availability: At boutiques and authorised retailers
Price: US$5,500; or 8,000 Singapore dollars

For more information, visit Panerai.com.